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National Geographic
03-07-2025
- National Geographic
This ancient city is a vegetarian traveler's dream
Imereti's capital still smells like the Silk Road; mid-Autumn air thickens with cheerful chatter and agreeable odors as locals nimbly navigate Kutaisi's Green Bazaar. They chomp churchkhela (strings of walnuts coated in grape-juice caramel), pivot between spice stalls armed by affable matriarchs, and accept samples from spongy wheels of Imeruli cheese. In the background, the soft soundtrack of the Rioni River interplays with the bazaar bustle. The Caucasus Mountains, Colchi plains, and Georgian highlands lie far beyond. Soon, shoppers will take their stock home and prepare a fresh daily feast to enjoy inside or on cobbled streets with cold drinks, lingering and laughing for hours. After all, a spread of Imeretian food is always shared, savored, and, as a bonus, vegetarian-friendly. Founded in 1106, the Gelati Monastery is one of the largest medieval Orthodox monasteries. Photograph by Dietmar Denger, laif/Redux Monks at Gelati Monastery utilized traditional methods of winemaking, using clay vessels known as qvevris to ferment and store the wine. Above, a cross made from grape vines is displayed at the monastery. Photograph by Oleg_0, Getty Images How history and climate influence cuisine Away from the trodden tourist routes of Tbilisi and Khaketi, Kutaisi (population: 180,000), was once the bureaucratic capital of Georgia, and is still considered by many to be the cultural capital. A UNESCO City of Literature, Kutaisi is fast becoming an eco-smart hub, claims the superlative of being one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited areas, and was the site where Jason and The Argonauts had a memorable misstep searching for the Golden Fleece. (The big trip: how to plan the ultimate Silk Road adventure through Central Asia) Georgia is an eternal crossroads, weathering a stormy history of invasions that resulted in blends of Mediterranean, Mongol, and Persian flavors. However, land-locked Kutaisi feels authentically Georgian. Moreover, its landlocked topography facilitates a legacy of vegetarian eating. "Imereti is an interesting region with its diverse landscape; there you can find lots of slopes, oak forests, Acacia fields, small and split cultivated lands," says Gvantsa Abuldaze, co-owner of Baia's Winery. "Because of less cultivated soil, people have more vegetables in their daily food than meat. It was [prevalent] for centuries and still remains." A mural in Kutaisi by artist Sasha Korban depicts a Georgian baker kneading dough to make khachapuri. Photograph by Ian Fleming, Alamy Stock Photo A communal feast Though you'll find no Golden Fleece in Kutaisi, you may stumble into a supra (a traditional, communal feast lasting hours and underpinned by countless toasts) and achieve shemomechama—an untranslatable word for the sensation when you are full but you continue eating anyway, as if guided by a force above you. In post-Soviet Georgia, supra and shemomechama offer continued assurance of cultural authenticity. The terms show Georgia's hospitality. Supra is "come hither" incarnate, offering feast and friendliness to all at the table, family, friends, and strangers alike. As the Georgian proverb goes, "a guest is a gift from God." "I'm happy people are becoming more interested in Kutaisi and Imereti," says Kristine Murusidze, lifetime Imeretian and manager of Communal Hotel Kutaisi, "there is so much heart and history here—in the food, the streets, the people." (Breaking bread: experiencing a supra like a true Georgian) Try a vegan superfood Vegetable variations appear aplenty during an Imeretian supra, but there's one shape-shifting standout that stays consistent. Pkhali is an encompassing term for Georgian vegetable mezzes that have walnuts acting as an edible adhesive. These purple, green, and orange mounds can be spread as vegan pate, spooned, or combined with anything else on your plate to start the meal and keep your vitamins in check. "Pkhali is very important in Imereti food," says Murusidze. "We always start a meal with pkhali, white cheese, and made (crispy cornbread)." Though pkhali is found all over Georgia, Imeretian pkhali feels older and closer to the land. Imeruli kachapuri is a Georgian flatbread stuffed with cheese. Photograph by Davyd Brahin, Getty Images Georgian vegetable mezzes (pkhali) that have walnuts acting as an edible adhesive Photograph by Albert_Karimov, Getty Images Murusidze corroborates this: "Many people still go to nature for wild herbs, like spinach and nettles, from early spring until late October." Keti Kvichidze, gastronomic advisor, echoes Murusidze, saying foraging for wild greens is more than a culinary task in this region. "It's a cherished tradition passed down through generations," she says. "Every spring, families venture into meadows and forests, guided by ancestral knowledge of where to find the most prized wild plants." Wine and flatbreads For herb-adverse vegetarians, there are still many gastronomic delights in Kutaisi, including what could be the world's original cheese-stuffed crust pizza. But don't call it that. Imeruli khachapuri (a flatbread stuffed with cheese) carries a heavier nostalgic load and gastronomic dignity, than say modern-day American chain pizza stores. (Rediscovering khachapuri, Georgia's must-try classic) The round, enclosed dough stuffed with Imereti cheese comes out early in the supra, like pkhali. Unlike khachapuri in other regions, the Imerulian variant features thinner dough, sharper cheese, and dough on top to ensure maximum cheese melt and pull. "The three white grapes—Tsolikouri, Tsitska, and Krakhuna—are dominant nowadays," says Abuldaze. "The terroir influence is easy to remark—slight acidity, white flower, and citrus aromas," all qualities that drink fabulously with sharp Imeruli cheese. The Kolkheti relief was created by the Georgian artist Bernard Nebieridze and is located on the side of the Green Bazaar. Photograph by OscarEspinosa, Getty Images Where to eat Be sure to visit the aptly named Green Bazaar to take stock of what produce is in season. Try free samples of Laghidze Water, a natural Georgian sparkling drink invented in Kutaisi in 1887—available in pear, tarragon, quince, and other flavors. Gala: After Kutaisi was named a UNESCO City of Literature in 2023, Gala opened the following year in honor of Galaktion Tabidze, one of Kutaisi's most renowned poets. Poetry is at play on the plate, in the traditional clay pottery that surrounds the restaurant, and, more literally, in the book market below. There is often live music playing, as well. Try the mushroom ojakhuri eggplant with walnuts and a glass of wine. Palaty: White wooden walls plastered with notes, gramophones, and live jazz make Palaty a sensuous spot to enjoy an extended dinner. However, if you have limited time, prioritize this spot as your dessert destination. Order pelushi: an autumnal Georgian grape juice porridge that Palaty serves up expertly; chase it with a stiff shot of chacha (best explained as Georgian grape moonshine). Doli: Located inside the Communal Hotel, Doli serves up high-class incarnations of the classics. Firelight plays on earth-toned walls from the romantic restaurant's ceramic fireplace while you indulge in kvari cheese dumplings (available seasonally), leek pkhali, and pomegranate seeds. Baia's Winery: Baia's Winery isn't in Kutaisi proper, but the wine tasting and Imeretian smorgasbord is worth the 40-minute drive. Owned by Abuldaze and her sister, Baia, this is an ideal place to enjoy ample pkhali, clay pot mushrooms, and conversation. Kiki Dy is a Savannah-based writer, traveler, tea drinker, and dreamer. Her work has appeared in Savannah Magazine, Fodor's Travel, Thrillist, EATER, The Sunday Long Read, and now National Geographic. She loves intrepid twelve-hour ferry rides to far-flung islands almost as much as the characters she collects along the way.
Malaysian Reserve
01-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Malaysian Reserve
A night at the Geneva opera — that is a literal snoozefest
by AGNÈS PEDRERO IN MOST places, a night at the opera conjures up images of polite audiences in eveningwear sitting upright to enjoy a bit of Bel Canto. In Geneva, though, once a year the crowd includes children, the eveningwear is pyjamas and socks — and the seats are scoped out for how comfortable they are to sleep in. Welcome to Sleepover in the city's 19th-century opera house, when it opens its doors to a small number of enthusiasts. From 8pm they wander its fresco-covered foyers, listen to performed music…and spend the night dozing in an auditorium lit up like a starry night. 'It's pretty crazy,' said law professor Carine Lutz, as a friend next to her rolled out a sleeping bag at the foot of the stage. They were among 180 people who rushed in with suitcases and shopping bags stuffed with quilts to stake out a nocturnal niche in the Grand Theatre. Among them were many families with children, who marvelled at the giant mirrors with gilded frames, the angels and nymphs painted above, and, of course, some music. 'I think purists might find it difficult to imagine that one could sleep here, on the same stage where major operas are usually performed,' Lutz told AFP. Grand Theatre dramaturge Clara Pons explained that the unusual offering was designed 'to open up spaces to things you don't usually do there, like for instance running around in your pyjamas,' rather than in ultra-formal attire. 'We feel closer to people than when we're all sitting in the 1,500-seat auditorium,' she said. Rush to the Balconies The connoisseurs know to flock to the balconies and the auditorium's red velvet armchairs, considered the most comfortable places to spend the night. Adrien Mangili was relishing the experience for the third time with family and friends. 'You have to come early to get a dressing room, to be able to sleep and have a little privacy,' he said, as his seven-year-old daughter Phedre enthusiastically pulled on pyjamas. If you get a good spot, 'it is easier for the kids to fall asleep,' he said. Before turning in, the children and adults spend hours exploring the darkened opera house, guided by ushers holding fluorescent rods. Their strolls were punctuated by musical interludes performed by a Baroque music ensemble called 'The Argonauts'. 'It's soothing, but it doesn't put you to sleep,' said Heloise Garcia, a 20-year-old student stretched out on the main stage. Those unable to secure a box rolled out their sleeping backs in corridors, foyers and on the floor of the auditorium, under a ceiling spotted with a thousand pinholes of light in the shape of the Milky Way. Carolina Marques Lopes, a lawyer, showed off a yellow dog soft toy she brought along. 'This is in case the Phantom comes to visit,' she joked. Stefanie Neves, captivated by the main foyer with its frescoes and paintings, said: 'We brought inflatable queen-size beds.' She and her friends wanted 'to be able to fully enjoy the music and still get a few hours of sleep,' she explained. Before lying down, Neves looked up at an overhead imposing chandelier and pushed her mattress farther away, just in case. Chopin to Pink Floyd Later that night, she and others dozed as an Italian pianist and performer, Marino Formenti, played piece after piece, at whim. 'I decided not to impose a programme, but to bring a number of very different compositions that I like to play, from Baroque to Chopin, to rock music, Pink Floyd, the Beatles,' he told AFP. Near the piano, a young couple danced, entwined, one barefoot and the other in socks, as a woman and child wearing matching panda pyjamas wandered past. Nicolas Wisard, stretched out on his mat, savoured the view. 'It's almost as good as Versailles, the Palace of Mirrors,' he said. As dawn ticked closer, snoring filled the Great Hall's acoustics, while a silent black and white movie played on a giant screen. 'It was really cool,' said Megan Bonfils as she groggily woke to music. 'Being with the artists and in this incredible place…in socks.' — AFP This article first appeared in The Malaysian Reserve weekly print edition
The Guardian
16-04-2025
- Science
- The Guardian
Underwater Argonauts! The deep-sea scientists logging Med pollution
The Argonauts is a project that follows a team of scientists aboard the oceanographic vessel L'Atalante during an expedition in the Mediterranean in summer 2024. Beneath the Surface is at Somerset House, London, 17 April to 5 photographs: © Juliette Pavy With an estimated 229,000 tonnes of plastic waste entering the Mediterranean every year – making it one of the world's most polluted seas – the scientists' mission extends beyond documentation. Like modern-day argonauts, they seek to raise awareness, inspire action, and promote solutions A real microcosm of a city is re-created on L'Atalante: there is a restaurant with waiters, a gym, and even a temporary shop, helping to foster a sense of community Scientists enjoy the sunshine on the ship's foredeck between watches. They rarely get a day off This plankton net is equipped with three different meshes, enabling zooplankton to be collected from the water to a depth of 200m. These are analysed using imaging and new genomic methods, such as the analysis of environmental DNA Molé puts on her survival suit following a safety briefing. This is a compulsory procedure so crews know how to react in an emergency Muret is responsible for launching the 'rosette'. A large pole called a gaff is used to keep it upright in strong winds. The scientists also provide spare equipment in case of breakage due to storms or other factors Most of the scientists on board have not had a day off: it's seven days a week, 24 hours a day. 'With The Argonauts,' says Pavy, 'I allowed myself more creative freedom, stepping aside from traditional photojournalism. Experimenting with fiction while remaining rooted in reality opened up new ways to tell stories' In her second long-term project Under the Arctic Ice, Mercury, Pavy sheds light on the realities of indigenous peoples' prolonged exposure to high mercury levels across the Arctic regions of Greenland and Nunavut. Iqaluit ('the place with many fish' in Inuktitut), has approximately 8,000 inhabitants This former ranger practices seal hunting at the 'floe edge' (where open water meets the ice floe) for sustenance. He places great importance on passing down this culture. 'We are the eyes and ears of the north', he says. Tikivik also conducts workshops for young Inuit to impart traditional skills: igloo building, hunting techniques, and the Inuktitut language With mercury levels in the Arctic increasing tenfold since the industrial revolution and the combined impact of global warming, methylmercury is now spreading into the food chain. Locals here are cutting up a caribou. They will sell the meat directly to other residents. Caribou is the most commonly consumed traditional meat by the Inuit in northern Canada and is less exposed to mercury than seal meat Pavy captures the efforts of doctors, scientists and local communities facing this public health challenge first-hand. Lake trout, the northernmost freshwater species, is an important resource for the people of the north. Sadly, it is also the second-largest source of mercury exposure for the Inuit (8.4%), after seals The starfish is one of the first links in the food chain. Mercury contamination occurs when it scratches sediments The hunters spend long hours on the ice floe waiting for slack tide, the period between two tides when there is little current. This is when the seals regularly come out of the water. The Inuit do not eat the oldest seals. 'We leave them for the dogs because they taste bad due to accumulated mercury', one of the hunters says In Greenland, hunting and fishing account for 10% of jobs and are an important resource for the territory's economy. They also account for 25% of the territory's GDP The highest per capita mercury levels on the planet are among the Inuit of Canada and Greenland
Jordan Times
15-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Jordan Times
A night at the Geneva opera -- that is a literal snoozefest
GENEVA — In most places, a night at the opera conjures up images of polite audiences in eveningwear sitting upright to enjoy a bit of Bel Canto. In Geneva, though, once a year the crowd includes children, the eveningwear is pyjamas and socks -- and the seats are scoped out for how comfortable they are to sleep in. Welcome to Sleepover in the city's 19th-century opera house, when it opens its doors to a small number of enthusiasts. From 8 pm they wander its fresco-covered foyers, listen to performed music... and spend the night dozing in an auditorium lit up like a starry night. "It's pretty crazy," said law professor Carine Lutz, as a friend next to her rolled out a sleeping bag at the foot of the stage. They were among 180 people who rushed in with suitcases and shopping bags stuffed with quilts to stake out a nocturnal niche in the Grand Theatre. Among them were many families with children, who marvelled at the giant mirrors with gilded frames, the angels and nymphs painted above, and, of course, some music. "I think purists might find it difficult to imagine that one could sleep here, on the same stage where major operas are usually performed," Lutz told AFP. Grand Theatre dramaturge Clara Pons explained that the unusual offering was designed "to open up spaces to things you don't usually do there, like for instance running around in your pyjamas", rather than in ultra-formal attire. "We feel closer to people than when we're all sitting in the 1,500-seat auditorium," she said. Rush to the balconies The connoisseurs know to flock to the balconies and the auditorium's red velvet armchairs, considered the most comfortable places to spend the night. Adrien Mangili was relishing the experience for the third time with family and friends. "You have to come early to get a dressing room, to be able to sleep and have a little privacy," he said, as his seven-year-old daughter Phedre enthusiastically pulled on pyjamas. If you get a good spot, "it is easier for the kids to fall asleep," he said. Before turning in, the children and adults spend hours exploring the darkened opera house, guided by ushers holding fluorescent rods. Their strolls were punctuated by musical interludes performed by a Baroque music ensemble called "The Argonauts". "It's soothing, but it doesn't put you to sleep," said Heloise Garcia, a 20-year-old student stretched out on the main stage. Those unable to secure a box rolled out their sleeping backs in corridors, foyers and on the floor of the auditorium, under a ceiling spotted with a thousand pinholes of light in the shape of the Milky Way. Carolina Marques Lopes, a lawyer, showed off a yellow dog soft toy she brought along. "This is in case the Phantom comes to visit," she joked. Stefanie Neves, captivated by the main foyer with its frescoes and paintings, said: "We brought inflatable queen-size beds." She and her friends wanted "to be able to fully enjoy the music and still get a few hours of sleep," she explained. Before lying down, Neves looked up at an overhead imposing chandelier and pushed her mattress farther away, just in case. Chopin to Pink Floyd Later that night, she and others dozed as an Italian pianist and performer, Marino Formenti, played piece after piece, at whim. "I decided not to impose a programme, but to bring a number of very different compositions that I like to play, from Baroque to Chopin, to rock music, Pink Floyd, the Beatles," he told AFP. Near the piano, a young couple danced, entwined, one barefoot and the other in socks, as a woman and child wearing matching panda pyjamas wandered past. Nicolas Wisard, stretched out on his mat, savoured the view. "It's almost as good as Versailles, the Palace of Mirrors," he said As dawn ticked closer, snoring filled the Great Hall's acoustics, while a silent black and white movie played on a giant screen. "It was really cool," said Megan Bonfils as she groggily woke to music. "Being with the artists and in this incredible place... in socks."
The Guardian
15-04-2025
- Entertainment
- The Guardian
Tell us: have you been inspired to declare your love inspired by a piece of art?
The Guardian's Saturday magazine is looking for people who declared their love after being inspired by a certain song, book, TV show or film. Did you confess your feelings for your best friend after watching When Harry Met Sally? Did you propose after seeing Four Weddings and a Funeral? Did you decide to have a baby with your partner after reading The Argonauts? We're looking for funny, unexpected love stories – and they don't have to have happy endings. Maybe you married the wrong person, and now you realise that all that really held you together was a deep and undying love of The Arctic Monkeys? Perhaps Fleabag made you proposition your priest? You can tell your story of declaring love after being inspired by a piece of art using this form. Please include as much detail as possible. Please note, the maximum file size is 5.7 MB. Your contact details are helpful so we can contact you for more information. They will only be seen by the Guardian. Your contact details are helpful so we can contact you for more information. They will only be seen by the Guardian. If you include other people's names please ask them first.
