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SG60: Designing progress, the Singapore way
SG60: Designing progress, the Singapore way

Straits Times

time7 days ago

  • Business
  • Straits Times

SG60: Designing progress, the Singapore way

Sign up now: Get ST's newsletters delivered to your inbox Design is the Republic's foundation and is a national advantage for the future Hospitality firm The Lo & Behold Group's New Bahru project demonstrates the power of design-led placemaking, one that builds community and relevance in the process. There is much to celebrate with our nation's 60th year of independence. Few countries have built so much, so deliberately, and in so little time post-independence. The Singapore story is one defined by clear intent – grounded in understanding real needs, long-term planning, as well as bold execution. This is design thinking at its highest. It echoes Senior Minister Lee Hsien Loong's words: 'Singapore is a nation by design. Nothing we have today is natural or happened by itself. Somebody thought about it, made it happen… nothing was by chance.' As a Unesco Creative City of Design, it is evident that great design can be found everywhere, from public housing to water systems, digital infrastructure and green urbanism. We designed for density, sustainability and accessibility. In doing so, design has made people feel considered. Seniors can gather, learn and connect at activity centres, and residents move with ease across neighbourhoods through lush park connectors. Over time, the same design sensibilities that shaped our city have filtered into how Singaporeans lead, create, and build. They are reflected in how Singapore's most forward-thinking business leaders innovate, how entrepreneurs craft new experiences, and how leaders pursue progress with both precision and care. A national mindset, a strategic asset In today's climate of disruptive new technologies, rising customer expectations, and urgent environmental pressures, operational efficiency alone isn't enough. What sets forward-looking businesses apart is clarity, agility, and above all, differentiation. Top stories Swipe. Select. Stay informed. Singapore Luxury items seized in $3b money laundering case handed over to Deloitte for liquidation Singapore MyRepublic customers air concerns over broadband speed after sale to StarHub Singapore Power switchboard failure led to disruption in NEL, Sengkang-Punggol LRT services: SBS Transit Singapore NEL and Sengkang-Punggol LRT resume service after hours-long power fault Business Ninja Van cuts 12% of Singapore workforce after 2 rounds of layoffs in 2024 Singapore Hyflux investigator 'took advantage' of Olivia Lum's inability to recall events: Davinder Singh Singapore Man who stabbed son-in-law to death in Boon Tat Street in 2017 dies of heart attack, says daughter Singapore Man who stalked woman blasted by judge on appeal for asking scandalous questions in court This is where design delivers. As part of our ongoing Nation by Design campaign, DesignSingapore Council has invited 60 individuals across business, creative and public sectors to share how design – and a sense of creative courage – has shaped their work and outlook. What emerged was a consistent theme: Design is identified as a strategic advantage. It allows organisation leaders and decision-makers to sharpen their value proposition, and apply problem-solving by design to make an impact in a fast-changing world. Design for purpose, not just performance A great example is Singapore's largest bank, DBS. Design and innovation are core to how the bank reimagines experience for customers, its people and systems. From simplifying everyday transactions to rethinking how customers manage their finances, DBS puts usability, trust and transparency at the heart of its service. The results speak for themselves: DBS was the first Asian bank to be recognised as World's Best Bank several years running. In our campaign, chief executive officer of DBS, Tan Su Shan, said: 'At DBS, design is deeply woven into our ways of working and cultural fabric. Design enables us to act with purpose, offer amazing solutions and experiences that make a lasting difference, and create impact beyond banking.' Hospitality firm The Lo & Behold Group, known for creating Singapore's most striking spaces such as the award-winning Odette and Tanjong Beach Club, shares a similar conviction. For its managing partner, Wee Teng Wen, design is about depth, not display. 'Design is not just how something looks. It's how it works, how it makes people feel, and how it tells a story,' he shared. 'In hospitality and placemaking, design is the difference between a space people pass through and one they remember. It shapes mood, encourages connection, and reflects values. In a world of sameness, good design becomes a form of quiet resistance – an invitation to feel, linger, and belong.' This philosophy is realised in the group's latest and most ambitious project, New Bahru, which opened last year to much fanfare. The creative cluster housing more than 40 local brands demonstrates the power of design-led placemaking, one that builds community and relevance in the process. It was also spotlighted in international publications such as the Australian Financial Review and Monocle, which hailed it as 'a lesson in what decent, walkable, human-scale design that brings local brands together can do for footfall'. Truly, design is not just decoration – it is direction. It is how smart companies stay sharp, in charge, and ahead in competition. Keeping the Singaporean edge As design becomes more central to how Singaporean companies create value and meaning, a broader shift is taking place. Design has made its way from the studio to the boardroom, from product development to organisational culture. Yet it remains under-leveraged. The question now is not whether design matters, but how we embed it across disciplines, leadership, and communities. After all, design is what makes innovation human. It turns smart ideas into usable, trusted real-world outcomes that people adopt and remember. Just as Singapore has rightly invested in engineering, biotechnology, logistics and digital literacy, it's time we invested in design capability – across industries and at scale. We need to start valuing design as a driver of national competitiveness as well as a strategic asset to how Singapore is perceived on the global stage. Realm of possibility Fellow Unesco Creative Cities of Design, Turin and in particular Seoul, show what is possible. Turin transformed from a post-industrial automobile town into a cultural European hot spot, while Seoul cemented its reputation as a creative powerhouse with its iconic films and music, cutting-edge design projects and dynamic urban energy. Singapore can similarly achieve this on both a cultural and economic level. Take DP Architects, a Singapore-born firm that now ranks among the world's largest architectural practices, with 16 offices worldwide and projects from Dubai Mall to Guangzhou Science City. Its CEO, Seah Chee Huang, attributes Singapore's design edge to our 'improbable beginnings (which) instilled a unique psyche: imagination and innovation driven by long-term vision and hyper-pragmatic mindset… a strength that positions us not just to participate but lead.' This mindset that is imaginative, intentional, and quietly radical is a competitive advantage waiting to be scaled. The real work lies in making this mindset widespread. Be it in cultivating design fluency in schools, where the next generation will shape the economy; in communities, where good design can drive positive impact; or in boardrooms, where the clarity and empathy design bring can anchor corporate purpose and unlock growth. This is the future we are committed to shaping through our campaign Nation by Design and other initiatives such as Learning by Design and the Singapore Design Week happening in September. We are also in the process of developing our next Design Masterplan that will chart the path for design and the critical role it will play in Singapore's future and our place in the world. We invite the public to contribute to the Masterplan on our website and co-create this together. Just as Singapore's transformation was never left to chance, neither should our future. In a world of volatility and complexity, it is those who design with care, conviction and courage who will lead – and last. Design laid our foundation. Our next chapter must be built not just by design, but by a nation of designers.

Cooked in Singapore: the tough road to success for home-grown chefs
Cooked in Singapore: the tough road to success for home-grown chefs

Business Times

time13-06-2025

  • Business
  • Business Times

Cooked in Singapore: the tough road to success for home-grown chefs

[SINGAPORE] Nicolas Tam's journey as a Singaporean chef is an all-too-familiar tale, but with a storybook ending. Young, ambitious and full of creative energy, he wanted to open his own restaurant but could find no investor willing to put money on a local talent. Eventually, one took a gamble and helped him open his restaurant, Willow, in 2022. It paid off. By 2023, Willow had a Michelin star. Nicolas Tam of one-Michelin-starred Willow. PHOTO: WILLOW While he joins other Michelin star compatriots such as Han Li Guang, Malcolm Lee and Jason Tan, Tam is a rare success in a dining scene where Singapore-born chefs have barely made a dent despite the city's international status as a culinary destination. Unlike, say, Bangkok, Tokyo and Seoul – thriving gourmet hubs boasting legions of home-grown chefs lauded for their work with local ingredients and heritage – Singapore is largely dominated by foreign-born chefs, who have been credited with raising the bar and adding vibrancy to the local dining scene. Whether this puts local talent at a disadvantage is a topic for debate. Among other things, Singaporean chefs struggle with identity issues, and winning over diners or investors who are more enamoured of their 'imported' counterparts. As one pundit quips: 'When a Japanese man touches a slice of fish with his bare hands, it becomes gold. But when the hawker doesn't wear a mask, the diners complain to SFA (Singapore Food Agency).' At the same time, a beleaguered food and beverage (F&B) industry – marked by restaurant closures, chefs dropping out to work in other fields or move into private dining, and the high costs of running a restaurant – further reduces the talent pool, making it even harder for existing and new chefs to thrive. ' Local chefs sometimes have to work harder to prove their ideas are worth backing, especially if they're trying to do something that doesn't fit neatly into existing categories. ' — Wee Teng Wen, founder of The Lo & Behold Group However, rewards await those who persevere, as in the case of Tam, who prides himself on being 'one of the few true-blue Singaporean chefs who worked from the bottom to where I am, in my own home country and in spite of all challenges'. A NEWSLETTER FOR YOU Friday, 2 pm Lifestyle Our picks of the latest dining, travel and leisure options to treat yourself. Sign Up Sign Up Investing in local talent That investors are skittish about putting money on local talent goes without saying. Tam notes how he had approached two F&B groups with his idea for Willow, but did not hear from one and was rejected by the other for being too young. His luck changed when he met Lim Kian Chun, then in the early days of Ebb & Flow Group, but even he 'had doubts about me, being local and unproven'. After much convincing, Lim invested a modest amount, and the rest is history. Wee Teng Wen, the founder of The Lo & Behold Group who is known for his support of local talent, observes that 'it's not always a level playing field' when it comes to restaurant investment. 'For a long time, chefs with international experience or big-name mentors tend to get more attention, as larger hospitality players tend to rally around something familiar or already validated. Local chefs sometimes have to work harder to prove their ideas are worth backing, especially if they're trying to do something that doesn't fit neatly into existing categories.' Law Jia-Jun, chef-owner of Province. PHOTO: PROVINCE 'There is pressure to prove that my food can be seen as comparable or equal to that of non-Singaporeans, especially those who are known at home and abroad,' says Law Jia-Jun, who opened his restaurant, Province, in 2023. 'Like it or not, platforms like the Michelin guide shape public and investor perception, and most of the Michelin restaurants here are helmed by foreign chefs.' So far, no Singaporean chef-fronted restaurant holds more than one star, and this feeds 'a certain perception about who is 'worthy' of recognition'. Province serves progressive Singaporean cuisine. PHOTO: PROVINCE He recalls a recent conversation with another chef who had plans to open an izakaya. 'Their investors felt that it would be easier to market the concept if it were fronted by a Japanese chef. That struck a chord with me, because it seems like there's something about Singaporean culture that is unsure how to value things if there isn't some foreign pedigree burnishing its credibility or desirability.' Defining a Singaporean chef For veteran chef Han Li Guang of the one-Michelin-starred Labyrinth, it has been a long journey of 11 years to evolve as a Singaporean chef. Even today, there is still a stigma about paying a premium for what locals see as 'mod-Sin', or elevated hawker food. 'While Singaporeans are becoming more receptive to modern ways of interpreting heritage food, it's not to the extent of Seoul or Bangkok, where the population is much bigger,' says Han. Also, Thai and Korean cuisines have longer histories as well as more defined characteristics and flavours, unlike Singapore cuisine which is 'all over the place'. It is 'very hard to nail down, but at the same time, there's a lot of content out there, and that's what helps to keep Labyrinth unique'. He notes that skills-wise, Singaporean chefs score highly, thanks to the many Michelin-starred restaurants that give them the exposure and the training. What they lack is Asian cooking skills, which Han gripes is missing from culinary schools – which still emphasise Western techniques. ' It seems like there's something about Singaporean culture that is unsure how to value things if there isn't some foreign pedigree burnishing its credibility or desirability. ' — Law Jia-Jun, chef-owner of Province 'I had two young chefs who quit after three months because they were trained in French cooking and couldn't get used to using a wok. So they wanted to return to their comfort zone,' he says. Which begs the question: Who is more Singaporean? One who is inspired by their roots, or one who rises to the top ranks of highly acclaimed Michelin-starred restaurants? The two are not necessarily mutually exclusive, says Law, who feels he would consider himself a Singaporean chef even if he had chosen to stay in a Western kitchen instead of striking out on his own with Province. He acknowledges he has chosen a more 'difficult' path because 'there is no clear blueprint for what we're trying to do. But that's also our mission – to discover what Singaporean cuisine is and develop an approach to cooking at a fine-dining level that is more local and regional'. Ng Guo Lun, head chef of Jaan by Kirk Westaway. PHOTO: JAAN For Ng Guo Lun, his achievement comes from making his way up from kitchen assistant at Willin Low's Wild Rocket after national service, to head chef at the two-Michelin-starred Jaan by Kirk Westaway, working next to its eponymous chef-owner. While other chefs have helped to shift mindsets about local food, 'I've chosen a different path, but not because I don't believe in Singaporean cuisine'. 'This is what I want at this point in my career, which is to excel in the kitchen while expressing my own style in other ways,' he adds. Winning the hearts of Singaporean diners While progress is still slow, 'there's a growing appreciation for chefs who are rooted here and have something original to say about Singaporean food', says Lo & Behold's Wee. A case in point would be the group's newest restaurant, Belimbing, helmed by 'new-gen' chef Marcus Leow. Marcus Leow of Belimbing. PHOTO: BELIMBING 'The response has been a lot better than expected,' says Leow, whose cuisine explores local recipes and South-east Asian ingredients. While he agrees that there is pressure on Singaporean chefs to reinterpret local cuisine, 'it gives me stronger motivation to get better at what I do'. Grilled firefly squid at Belimbing. PHOTO: BELIMBING Perhaps one of the biggest success stories would be Mustard Seed, the counter-only, perennially booked-out restaurant run by Gan Ming Kiat. The chef, who has won hearts with his unique version of Singaporean food with a Japanese accent, was recently joined by fellow local chef Desmond Shen – well-known for his innovative cooking style. Gan Ming Kiat of Mustard Seed. PHOTO: KERRY CHEAH 'Running a business with honesty and sincerity goes a long way,' says Gan of his success from Day One. 'When we started, there weren't many modern Singaporean tasting menu-style restaurants around, so we were able to start strong and build on that momentum.' Candied orange kuih bingka at Mustard Seed. PHOTO: KERRY CHEAH Schooled in kaiseki and Peranakan cuisine, he credits his training in Asian rather than Western kitchens for creating a cuisine that 'hits the sweet spot of being tasty and creative enough without being too intellectual'. 'Singaporeans relate to this better.' Market realities and carving out a niche While Gan had a first-mover advantage, 'to come out and do something of your own now is definitely much harder than when I first started out', he says. 'You're dealing with higher costs, increased diner expectations, a highly competitive dining scene, and also a dismal post-Covid climate. Dining out is now a lower priority.' MJ Teoh of the heritage-inspired Native got a full reality check when the restaurant closed down after three years, even though the original cocktail bar remains. One of the few female chefs in Singapore, Teoh laments that 'one of the mistakes we made was not to differentiate ourselves from the bar, because people thought we just did bar snacks and didn't bother to give us a try'. MJ Teoh, former head chef of Native. PHOTO: MJ TEOH She adds: 'We weren't making enough money and the rent was way too high. Amoy Street is very competitive and in the last few years, we noticed people are just not spending as much. A lot of us in the industry felt the shift – sales were down even in bars that were thriving.' MJ Teoh's cooking is inspired by her heritage. PHOTO: MJ TEOH Teoh is part of a cohort of young chefs who are trying to find their way in this uncertain climate, even going through a period of soul-searching. She was so burnt out, she says, that she stopped working for a few months. Recently, she started giving pasta-making lessons and does private dining in client's homes. The plan is to start a dining space in her own home and while she is not ruling out running a restaurant again with a new investor, she questions if it is a practical move in the current climate. Growing the talent pool While market uncertainty has led to attrition as chefs leave the industry completely to embark on totally different careers, the numbers enrolling in culinary schools have grown, says Ian Goh, a culinary arts lecturer at the Institute of Technical Education (ITE). Ian Goh, culinary arts lecturer at ITE. PHOTO: IAN GOH 'Cohort-wise, we've been seeing a consistent rise in the number of students enrolling in our culinary programmes,' he says. 'Over the past few years, there's been a noticeable shift where more (young people) are interested in building long-term careers in F&B.' The change was apparent after Covid-19, when home-based businesses sprouted up. That taste of entrepreneurship, Goh says, spurred their interest in making a career of it. The challenge, he adds, is matching chefs' passion with the realities of the industry – namely 'long hours, high pressure, and sometimes, toxic work environments'. Despite more work-life balance in some progressive kitchens, 'the industry still has a long way to go'. But he is also seeing how the younger generation is 'redefining what it means to be a culinary professional', going beyond conventional cooking to explore 'food styling, research and development, sustainable food systems, entrepreneurship and even food history'. Plus, there are platforms for local chefs to shine, says Nicola Lee, the South-east Asia academy chair for the World's 50 Best Restaurants guide as well as its Asian equivalent. While her role pertains to the voting for the guides, she is a staunch supporter of local talent. ' Investors today are increasingly interested in strong, distinctive chef-driven narratives, regardless of nationality. What matters is the authenticity of the story and the quality of execution. ' — Veteran chef Ace Tan Besides Han Li Guang and Jason Tan, pastry chefs such as Cheryl Koh of Tarte and Louisa Lim of Odette have been recognised among the 50 Best recipients, along with Janice Wong. ITE's Ian Goh was also the 2022 winner of the San Pellegrino Young Chef Academy for Asia. Not to mention the Singaporean chefs making waves overseas include Kenneth Foong of Noma (Denmark), Mathew Leong of Re-Naa (Norway), and Jimmy Lim of JL Studio (Taiwan). On its part, the Singapore Tourism Board also 'supports our local talents in prestigious international competitions to elevate Singapore's global culinary standing,' says Cherie Lee, director, lifestyle and attractions. Most recently, it supported Leong's participation in this year's Bocuse d'Or Grand Final, and worked with him 'beyond the competition to drive awareness of Singapore's food scene through our social platforms. STB also 'collaborates with homegrown events and global partners, including 2024's Singapore Food Festival and 2025's Kita Food Festival to showcase Singapore's culinary excellence internationally,' adds Lee. The way ahead 'We need to show that cooking local food, especially at a higher level, is a viable and rewarding career path,' says Wee of Lo & Behold. 'Young chefs often gravitate towards other cuisines... because of what they're exposed to or (because) certain cuisines are more globally recognised, and that makes hiring for local restaurants an even bigger challenge.' He adds: 'To shift that mindset, we need to spotlight chefs doing meaningful work with local food and show that there's creativity, depth, and a future in it. Visibility helps, but it needs to be matched by structural change. That includes reforming culinary school curriculums so local cuisine is taught with the same rigour as European cooking. 'We also need to shift the conversation from preservation to innovation, and cultivate an audience that's curious, open, and willing to value new expressions of Singaporean food.' For veteran chef Ace Tan, who launched his Chinese-inspired restaurant Asu last year, the key is not to pigeonhole the definition of a 'Singaporean restaurant'. 'It's more accurate to consider it as a Singaporean chef presenting their interpretation of Asian, cross-cultural cuisine. The landscape has evolved significantly since I started this path in 2015 (with the short-lived Restaurant Ards) – there's now a growing appetite and appreciation for contemporary Asian concepts across East Asia,' he says. 'Investors today are increasingly interested in strong, distinctive chef-driven narratives, regardless of nationality. What matters is the authenticity of the story and the quality of execution.'

Cooked in Singapore: the tough road to success for homegrown chefs
Cooked in Singapore: the tough road to success for homegrown chefs

Business Times

time12-06-2025

  • Business
  • Business Times

Cooked in Singapore: the tough road to success for homegrown chefs

[SINGAPORE] Nicolas Tam's journey as a Singaporean chef is an all-too-familiar tale, but with a storybook ending. Young, ambitious and full of creative energy, he wanted to open his own restaurant but could find no investor willing to put money on a local talent. Eventually, one took a gamble and helped him open his restaurant, Willow, in 2022. It paid off. By 2023, Willow had a Michelin star. Nicolas Tam of one-Michelin-starred Willow. PHOTO: WILLOW While he joins other Michelin star compatriots such as Han Li Guang, Malcolm Lee and Jason Tan, Tam is a rare success in a dining scene where Singapore-born chefs have barely made a dent despite the city's international status as a culinary destination. Unlike, say, Bangkok, Tokyo and Seoul – thriving gourmet hubs boasting legions of home-grown chefs lauded for their work with local ingredients and heritage – Singapore is largely dominated by foreign-born chefs, who have been credited with raising the bar and adding vibrancy to the local dining scene. Whether this puts local talent at a disadvantage is a topic for debate. Among other things, Singaporean chefs struggle with identity issues, and winning over diners or investors who are more enamoured of their 'imported' counterparts. As one pundit quips: 'When a Japanese man touches a slice of fish with his bare hands, it becomes gold. But when the hawker doesn't wear a mask, the diners complain to SFA (Singapore Food Agency).' At the same time, a beleaguered food and beverage (F&B) industry – marked by restaurant closures, chefs dropping out to work in other fields or move into private dining, and the high costs of running a restaurant – further reduces the talent pool, making it even harder for existing and new chefs to thrive. ' Local chefs sometimes have to work harder to prove their ideas are worth backing, especially if they're trying to do something that doesn't fit neatly into existing categories. ' — Wee Teng Wen, founder of The Lo & Behold Group However, rewards await those who persevere, as in the case of Tam, who prides himself on being 'one of the few true-blue Singaporean chefs who worked from the bottom to where I am, in my own home country and in spite of all challenges'. A NEWSLETTER FOR YOU Friday, 2 pm Lifestyle Our picks of the latest dining, travel and leisure options to treat yourself. Sign Up Sign Up Investing in local talent That investors are skittish about putting money on local talent goes without saying. Tam notes how he had approached two F&B groups with his idea for Willow, but did not hear from one and was rejected by the other for being too young. His luck changed when he met Lim Kian Chun, then in the early days of Ebb & Flow Group, but even he 'had doubts about me, being local and unproven'. After much convincing, Lim invested a modest amount, and the rest is history. Wee Teng Wen, the founder of The Lo & Behold Group who is known for his support of local talent, observes that 'it's not always a level playing field' when it comes to restaurant investment. 'For a long time, chefs with international experience or big-name mentors tend to get more attention, as larger hospitality players tend to rally around something familiar or already validated. Local chefs sometimes have to work harder to prove their ideas are worth backing, especially if they're trying to do something that doesn't fit neatly into existing categories.' Law Jia-Jun, chef-owner of Province. PHOTO: PROVINCE 'There is pressure to prove that my food can be seen as comparable or equal to that of non-Singaporeans, especially those who are known at home and abroad,' says Law Jia-Jun, who opened his restaurant, Province, in 2023. 'Like it or not, platforms like the Michelin guide shape public and investor perception, and most of the Michelin restaurants here are helmed by foreign chefs.' So far, no Singaporean chef-fronted restaurant holds more than one star, and this feeds 'a certain perception about who is 'worthy' of recognition'. Province serves progressive Singaporean cuisine. PHOTO: PROVINCE He recalls a recent conversation with another chef who had plans to open an izakaya. 'Their investors felt that it would be easier to market the concept if it were fronted by a Japanese chef. That struck a chord with me, because it seems like there's something about Singaporean culture that is unsure how to value things if there isn't some foreign pedigree burnishing its credibility or desirability.' Defining a Singaporean chef For veteran chef Han Li Guang of the one-Michelin-starred Labyrinth, it has been a long journey of 11 years to evolve as a Singaporean chef. Even today, there is still a stigma about paying a premium for what locals see as 'mod-Sin', or elevated hawker food. 'While Singaporeans are becoming more receptive to modern ways of interpreting heritage food, it's not to the extent of Seoul or Bangkok, where the population is much bigger,' says Han. Also, Thai and Korean cuisines have longer histories as well as more defined characteristics and flavours, unlike Singapore cuisine which is 'all over the place'. It is 'very hard to nail down, but at the same time, there's a lot of content out there, and that's what helps to keep Labyrinth unique'. He notes that skills-wise, Singaporean chefs score highly, thanks to the many Michelin-starred restaurants that give them the exposure and the training. What they lack is Asian cooking skills, which Han gripes is missing from culinary schools – which still emphasise Western techniques. ' It seems like there's something about Singaporean culture that is unsure how to value things if there isn't some foreign pedigree burnishing its credibility or desirability. ' — Law Jia-Jun, chef-owner of Province 'I had two young chefs who quit after three months because they were trained in French cooking and couldn't get used to using a wok. So they wanted to return to their comfort zone,' he says. Which begs the question: Who is more Singaporean? One who is inspired by their roots, or one who rises to the top ranks of highly acclaimed Michelin-starred restaurants? The two are not necessarily mutually exclusive, says Law, who feels he would consider himself a Singaporean chef even if he had chosen to stay in a Western kitchen instead of striking out on his own with Province. He acknowledges he has chosen a more 'difficult' path because 'there is no clear blueprint for what we're trying to do. But that's also our mission – to discover what Singaporean cuisine is and develop an approach to cooking at a fine-dining level that is more local and regional'. Ng Guo Lun, head chef of Jaan by Kirk Westaway. PHOTO: JAAN For Ng Guo Lun, his achievement comes from making his way up from kitchen assistant at Willin Low's Wild Rocket after national service, to head chef at the two-Michelin-starred Jaan by Kirk Westaway, working next to its eponymous chef-owner. While other chefs have helped to shift mindsets about local food, 'I've chosen a different path, but not because I don't believe in Singaporean cuisine'. 'This is what I want at this point in my career, which is to excel in the kitchen while expressing my own style in other ways,' he adds. Winning the hearts of Singaporean diners While progress is still slow, 'there's a growing appreciation for chefs who are rooted here and have something original to say about Singaporean food', says Lo & Behold's Wee. A case in point would be the group's newest restaurant, Belimbing, helmed by 'new-gen' chef Marcus Leow. Marcus Leow of Belimbing. PHOTO: BELIMBING 'The response has been a lot better than expected,' says Leow, whose cuisine explores local recipes and South-east Asian ingredients. While he agrees that there is pressure on Singaporean chefs to reinterpret local cuisine, 'it gives me stronger motivation to get better at what I do'. Grilled firefly squid at Belimbing. PHOTO: BELIMBING Perhaps one of the biggest success stories would be Mustard Seed, the counter-only, perennially booked-out restaurant run by Gan Ming Kiat. The chef, who has won hearts with his unique version of Singaporean food with a Japanese accent, was recently joined by fellow local chef Desmond Shen – well-known for his innovative cooking style. Gan Ming Kiat of Mustard Seed. PHOTO: KERRY CHEAH 'Running a business with honesty and sincerity goes a long way,' says Gan of his success from Day One. 'When we started, there weren't many modern Singaporean tasting menu-style restaurants around, so we were able to start strong and build on that momentum.' Candied orange kuih bingka at Mustard Seed. PHOTO: KERRY CHEAH Schooled in kaiseki and Peranakan cuisine, he credits his training in Asian rather than Western kitchens for creating a cuisine that 'hits the sweet spot of being tasty and creative enough without being too intellectual'. 'Singaporeans relate to this better.' Market realities and carving out a niche While Gan had a first-mover advantage, 'to come out and do something of your own now is definitely much harder than when I first started out', he says. 'You're dealing with higher costs, increased diner expectations, a highly competitive dining scene, and also a dismal post-Covid climate. Dining out is now a lower priority.' MJ Teoh of the heritage-inspired Native got a full reality check when the restaurant closed down after three years, even though the original cocktail bar remains. One of the few female chefs in Singapore, Teoh laments that 'one of the mistakes we made was not to differentiate ourselves from the bar, because people thought we just did bar snacks and didn't bother to give us a try'. MJ Teoh, former head chef of Native. PHOTO: MJ TEOH She adds: 'We weren't making enough money and the rent was way too high. Amoy Street is very competitive and in the last few years, we noticed people are just not spending as much. A lot of us in the industry felt the shift – sales were down even in bars that were thriving.' MJ Teoh's cooking is inspired by her heritage. PHOTO: MJ TEOH Teoh is part of a cohort of young chefs who are trying to find their way in this uncertain climate, even going through a period of soul-searching. She was so burnt out, she says, that she stopped working for a few months. Recently, she started giving pasta-making lessons and does private dining in client's homes. The plan is to start a dining space in her own home and while she is not ruling out running a restaurant again with a new investor, she questions if it is a practical move in the current climate. Growing the talent pool While market uncertainty has led to attrition as chefs leave the industry completely to embark on totally different careers, the numbers enrolling in culinary schools have grown, says Ian Goh, a culinary arts lecturer at the Institute of Technical Education (ITE). Ian Goh, culinary arts lecturer at ITE. PHOTO: IAN GOH 'Cohort-wise, we've been seeing a consistent rise in the number of students enrolling in our culinary programmes,' he says. 'Over the past few years, there's been a noticeable shift where more (young people) are interested in building long-term careers in F&B.' The change was apparent after Covid-19, when home-based businesses sprouted up. That taste of entrepreneurship, Goh says, spurred their interest in making a career of it. The challenge, he adds, is matching chefs' passion with the realities of the industry – namely 'long hours, high pressure, and sometimes, toxic work environments'. Despite more work-life balance in some progressive kitchens, 'the industry still has a long way to go'. But he is also seeing how the younger generation is 'redefining what it means to be a culinary professional', going beyond conventional cooking to explore 'food styling, research and development, sustainable food systems, entrepreneurship and even food history'. Plus, there are platforms for local chefs to shine, says Nicola Lee, the South-east Asia academy chair for the World's 50 Best Restaurants guide as well as its Asian equivalent. While her role pertains to the voting for the guides, she is a staunch supporter of local talent. ' Investors today are increasingly interested in strong, distinctive chef-driven narratives, regardless of nationality. What matters is the authenticity of the story and the quality of execution. ' — Veteran chef Ace Tan Besides Han Li Guang and Jason Tan, pastry chefs such as Cheryl Koh of Tarte and Louisa Lim of Odette have been recognised among the 50 Best recipients, along with Janice Wong. ITE's Ian Goh was also the 2022 winner of the San Pellegrino Young Chef Academy for Asia. Not to mention the Singaporean chefs making waves overseas include Kenneth Foong of Noma (Denmark), Mathew Leong of Re-Naa (Norway), and Jimmy Lim of JL Studio (Taiwan). On its part, the Singapore Tourism Board also 'supports our local talents in prestigious international competitions to elevate Singapore's global culinary standing,' says Cherie Lee, director, lifestyle and attractions. Most recently, it supported Leong's participation in this year's Bocuse d'Or Grand Final, and worked with him 'beyond the competition to drive awareness of Singapore's food scene through our social platforms. STB also 'collaborates with homegrown events and global partners, including 2024's Singapore Food Festival and 2025's Kita Food Festival to showcase Singapore's culinary excellence internationally,' adds Lee. The way ahead 'We need to show that cooking local food, especially at a higher level, is a viable and rewarding career path,' says Wee of Lo & Behold. 'Young chefs often gravitate towards other cuisines... because of what they're exposed to or (because) certain cuisines are more globally recognised, and that makes hiring for local restaurants an even bigger challenge.' He adds: 'To shift that mindset, we need to spotlight chefs doing meaningful work with local food and show that there's creativity, depth, and a future in it. Visibility helps, but it needs to be matched by structural change. That includes reforming culinary school curriculums so local cuisine is taught with the same rigour as European cooking. 'We also need to shift the conversation from preservation to innovation, and cultivate an audience that's curious, open, and willing to value new expressions of Singaporean food.' For veteran chef Ace Tan, who launched his Chinese-inspired restaurant Asu last year, the key is not to pigeonhole the definition of a 'Singaporean restaurant'. 'It's more accurate to consider it as a Singaporean chef presenting their interpretation of Asian, cross-cultural cuisine. The landscape has evolved significantly since I started this path in 2015 (with the short-lived Restaurant Ards) – there's now a growing appetite and appreciation for contemporary Asian concepts across East Asia,' he says. 'Investors today are increasingly interested in strong, distinctive chef-driven narratives, regardless of nationality. What matters is the authenticity of the story and the quality of execution.'

The future of the Singaporean chef
The future of the Singaporean chef

Business Times

time12-06-2025

  • Business
  • Business Times

The future of the Singaporean chef

[SINGAPORE] Nicolas Tam's journey as a Singaporean chef is an all-too-familiar tale, but with a storybook ending. Young, ambitious and full of creative energy, he wanted to open his own restaurant but could find no investor willing to put money on a local talent. Eventually, one took a gamble and helped him open his restaurant, Willow, in 2022. It paid off. By 2023, Willow had a Michelin star. Nicolas Tam of one-Michelin-starred Willow. PHOTO: WILLOW While he joins other Michelin star compatriots such as Han Li Guang, Malcolm Lee and Jason Tan, Tam is a rare success in a dining scene where Singapore-born chefs have barely made a dent despite the city's international status as a culinary destination. Unlike, say, Bangkok, Tokyo and Seoul – thriving gourmet hubs boasting legions of home-grown chefs lauded for their work with local ingredients and heritage – Singapore is largely dominated by foreign-born chefs, who have been credited with raising the bar and adding vibrancy to the local dining scene. Whether this puts local talent at a disadvantage is a topic for debate. Among other things, Singaporean chefs struggle with identity issues, and winning over diners or investors who are more enamoured of their 'imported' counterparts. As one pundit quips: 'When a Japanese man touches a slice of fish with his bare hands, it becomes gold. But when the hawker doesn't wear a mask, the diners complain to SFA (Singapore Food Agency).' At the same time, a beleaguered food and beverage (F&B) industry – marked by restaurant closures, chefs dropping out to work in other fields or move into private dining, and the high costs of running a restaurant – further reduces the talent pool, making it even harder for existing and new chefs to thrive. ' Local chefs sometimes have to work harder to prove their ideas are worth backing, especially if they're trying to do something that doesn't fit neatly into existing categories. ' — Wee Teng Wen, founder of The Lo & Behold Group However, rewards await those who persevere, as in the case of Tam, who prides himself on being 'one of the few true-blue Singaporean chefs who worked from the bottom to where I am, in my own home country and in spite of all challenges'. A NEWSLETTER FOR YOU Friday, 2 pm Lifestyle Our picks of the latest dining, travel and leisure options to treat yourself. Sign Up Sign Up Investing in local talent That investors are skittish about putting money on local talent goes without saying. Tam notes how he had approached two F&B groups with his idea for Willow, but did not hear from one and was rejected by the other for being too young. His luck changed when he met Lim Kian Chun, then in the early days of Ebb & Flow Group, but even he 'had doubts about me, being local and unproven'. After much convincing, Lim invested a modest amount, and the rest is history. Wee Teng Wen, the founder of The Lo & Behold Group who is known for his support of local talent, observes that 'it's not always a level playing field' when it comes to restaurant investment. 'For a long time, chefs with international experience or big-name mentors tend to get more attention, as larger hospitality players tend to rally around something familiar or already validated. Local chefs sometimes have to work harder to prove their ideas are worth backing, especially if they're trying to do something that doesn't fit neatly into existing categories.' Law Jia-Jun, chef-owner of Province. PHOTO: PROVINCE 'There is pressure to prove that my food can be seen as comparable or equal to that of non-Singaporeans, especially those who are known at home and abroad,' says Law Jia-Jun, who opened his restaurant, Province, in 2023. 'Like it or not, platforms like the Michelin guide shape public and investor perception, and most of the Michelin restaurants here are helmed by foreign chefs.' So far, no Singaporean chef-fronted restaurant holds more than one star, and this feeds 'a certain perception about who is 'worthy' of recognition'. Province serves progressive Singaporean cuisine. PHOTO: PROVINCE He recalls a recent conversation with another chef who had plans to open an izakaya. 'Their investors felt that it would be easier to market the concept if it were fronted by a Japanese chef. That struck a chord with me, because it seems like there's something about Singaporean culture that is unsure how to value things if there isn't some foreign pedigree burnishing its credibility or desirability.' Defining a Singaporean chef For veteran chef Han Li Guang of the one-Michelin-starred Labyrinth, it has been a long journey of 11 years to evolve as a Singaporean chef. Even today, there is still a stigma about paying a premium for what locals see as 'mod-Sin', or elevated hawker food. 'While Singaporeans are becoming more receptive to modern ways of interpreting heritage food, it's not to the extent of Seoul or Bangkok, where the population is much bigger,' says Han. Also, Thai and Korean cuisines have longer histories as well as more defined characteristics and flavours, unlike Singapore cuisine which is 'all over the place'. It is 'very hard to nail down, but at the same time, there's a lot of content out there, and that's what helps to keep Labyrinth unique'. He notes that skills-wise, Singaporean chefs score highly, thanks to the many Michelin-starred restaurants that give them the exposure and the training. What they lack is Asian cooking skills, which Han gripes is missing from culinary schools – which still emphasise Western techniques. ' It seems like there's something about Singaporean culture that is unsure how to value things if there isn't some foreign pedigree burnishing its credibility or desirability. ' — Law Jia-Jun, chef-owner of Province 'I had two young chefs who quit after three months because they were trained in French cooking and couldn't get used to using a wok. So they wanted to return to their comfort zone,' he says. Which begs the question: Who is more Singaporean? One who is inspired by their roots, or one who rises to the top ranks of highly acclaimed Michelin-starred restaurants? The two are not necessarily mutually exclusive, says Law, who feels he would consider himself a Singaporean chef even if he had chosen to stay in a Western kitchen instead of striking out on his own with Province. He acknowledges he has chosen a more 'difficult' path because 'there is no clear blueprint for what we're trying to do. But that's also our mission – to discover what Singaporean cuisine is and develop an approach to cooking at a fine-dining level that is more local and regional'. Ng Guo Lun, head chef of Jaan by Kirk Westaway. PHOTO: JAAN For Ng Guo Lun, his achievement comes from making his way up from kitchen assistant at Willin Low's Wild Rocket after national service, to head chef at the two-Michelin-starred Jaan by Kirk Westaway, working next to its eponymous chef-owner. While other chefs have helped to shift mindsets about local food, 'I've chosen a different path, but not because I don't believe in Singaporean cuisine'. 'This is what I want at this point in my career, which is to excel in the kitchen while expressing my own style in other ways,' he adds. Winning the hearts of Singaporean diners While progress is still slow, 'there's a growing appreciation for chefs who are rooted here and have something original to say about Singaporean food', says Lo & Behold's Wee. A case in point would be the group's newest restaurant, Belimbing, helmed by 'new-gen' chef Marcus Leow. Marcus Leow of Belimbing. PHOTO: BELIMBING 'The response has been a lot better than expected,' says Leow, whose cuisine explores local recipes and South-east Asian ingredients. While he agrees that there is pressure on Singaporean chefs to reinterpret local cuisine, 'it gives me stronger motivation to get better at what I do'. Grilled firefly squid at Belimbing. PHOTO: BELIMBING Perhaps one of the biggest success stories would be Mustard Seed, the counter-only, perennially booked-out restaurant run by Gan Ming Kiat. The chef, who has won hearts with his unique version of Singaporean food with a Japanese accent, was recently joined by fellow local chef Desmond Shen – well-known for his innovative cooking style. Gan Ming Kiat of Mustard Seed. PHOTO: KERRY CHEAH 'Running a business with honesty and sincerity goes a long way,' says Gan of his success from Day One. 'When we started, there weren't many modern Singaporean tasting menu-style restaurants around, so we were able to start strong and build on that momentum.' Candied orange kuih bingka at Mustard Seed. PHOTO: KERRY CHEAH Schooled in kaiseki and Peranakan cuisine, he credits his training in Asian rather than Western kitchens for creating a cuisine that 'hits the sweet spot of being tasty and creative enough without being too intellectual'. 'Singaporeans relate to this better.' Market realities and carving out a niche While Gan had a first-mover advantage, 'to come out and do something of your own now is definitely much harder than when I first started out', he says. 'You're dealing with higher costs, increased diner expectations, a highly competitive dining scene, and also a dismal post-Covid climate. Dining out is now a lower priority.' MJ Teoh of the heritage-inspired Native got a full reality check when the restaurant closed down after three years, even though the original cocktail bar remains. One of the few female chefs in Singapore, Teoh laments that 'one of the mistakes we made was not to differentiate ourselves from the bar, because people thought we just did bar snacks and didn't bother to give us a try'. MJ Teoh, former head chef of Native. PHOTO: MJ TEOH She adds: 'We weren't making enough money and the rent was way too high. Amoy Street is very competitive and in the last few years, we noticed people are just not spending as much. A lot of us in the industry felt the shift – sales were down even in bars that were thriving.' MJ Teoh's cooking is inspired by her heritage. PHOTO: MJ TEOH Teoh is part of a cohort of young chefs who are trying to find their way in this uncertain climate, even going through a period of soul-searching. She was so burnt out, she says, that she stopped working for a few months. Recently, she started giving pasta-making lessons and does private dining in client's homes. The plan is to start a dining space in her own home and while she is not ruling out running a restaurant again with a new investor, she questions if it is a practical move in the current climate. Growing the talent pool While market uncertainty has led to attrition as chefs leave the industry completely to embark on totally different careers, the numbers enrolling in culinary schools have grown, says Ian Goh, a culinary arts lecturer at the Institute of Technical Education (ITE). Ian Goh, culinary arts lecturer at ITE. PHOTO: IAN GOH 'Cohort-wise, we've been seeing a consistent rise in the number of students enrolling in our culinary programmes,' he says. 'Over the past few years, there's been a noticeable shift where more (young people) are interested in building long-term careers in F&B.' The change was apparent after Covid-19, when home-based businesses sprouted up. That taste of entrepreneurship, Goh says, spurred their interest in making a career of it. The challenge, he adds, is matching chefs' passion with the realities of the industry – namely 'long hours, high pressure, and sometimes, toxic work environments'. Despite more work-life balance in some progressive kitchens, 'the industry still has a long way to go'. But he is also seeing how the younger generation is 'redefining what it means to be a culinary professional', going beyond conventional cooking to explore 'food styling, research and development, sustainable food systems, entrepreneurship and even food history'. Plus, there are platforms for local chefs to shine, says Nicola Lee, the South-east Asia academy chair for the World's 50 Best Restaurants guide as well as its Asian equivalent. While her role pertains to the voting for the guides, she is a staunch supporter of local talent. ' Investors today are increasingly interested in strong, distinctive chef-driven narratives, regardless of nationality. What matters is the authenticity of the story and the quality of execution. ' — Veteran chef Ace Tan Besides Han Li Guang and Jason Tan, pastry chefs such as Cheryl Koh of Tarte and Louisa Lim of Odette have been recognised among the 50 Best recipients, along with Janice Wong. ITE's Ian Goh was also the 2022 winner of the San Pellegrino Young Chef Academy for Asia. Not to mention the Singaporean chefs making waves overseas include Kenneth Foong of Noma (Denmark), Mathew Leong of Re-Naa (Norway), and Jimmy Lim of JL Studio (Taiwan). The way ahead 'We need to show that cooking local food, especially at a higher level, is a viable and rewarding career path,' says Wee of Lo & Behold. 'Young chefs often gravitate towards other cuisines... because of what they're exposed to or (because) certain cuisines are more globally recognised, and that makes hiring for local restaurants an even bigger challenge.' He adds: 'To shift that mindset, we need to spotlight chefs doing meaningful work with local food and show that there's creativity, depth, and a future in it. Visibility helps, but it needs to be matched by structural change. That includes reforming culinary school curriculums so local cuisine is taught with the same rigour as European cooking. 'We also need to shift the conversation from preservation to innovation, and cultivate an audience that's curious, open, and willing to value new expressions of Singaporean food.' For veteran chef Ace Tan, who launched his Chinese-inspired restaurant Asu last year, the key is not to pigeonhole the definition of a 'Singaporean restaurant'. 'It's more accurate to consider it as a Singaporean chef presenting their interpretation of Asian, cross-cultural cuisine. The landscape has evolved significantly since I started this path in 2015 (with the short-lived Restaurant Ards) – there's now a growing appetite and appreciation for contemporary Asian concepts across East Asia,' he says. 'Investors today are increasingly interested in strong, distinctive chef-driven narratives, regardless of nationality. What matters is the authenticity of the story and the quality of execution.'

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