4 days ago
The Wind Up – Watch News #326
By Mr Dimitri Tsilioris - News
Published: 26 May 2025
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Readtime: 8 min
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Welcome back to The Wind Up, our weekly series highlighting the newest watches of the past seven days. With Watches & Wonders 2025 now in the rear-view mirror, it's time to set our sights on the future. The world's biggest brands are back on the design block, unveiling a string of incredible haute horology pieces, daily drivers and unique novelties.
From dive watches and sports timepieces to the latest in classy dress watches and grand complications, the last few weeks have offered no shortage of stand-out announcements. What's more, it isn't over yet. This week, the world's biggest watchmakers—and a few budding independents—kept the good vibes rolling. In this latest instalment, we'll be featuring some of the coolest new watches, including releases from the likes of Breguet, IWC Schaffhausen and even a special art installation on behalf of TAG Heuer. Happy reading, fellas, and I hope you have a great week ahead.
Werner Bronkhorst at the new TAG Heuer Sydney Boutique | Image: TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer x Werner Bronkhorst
Continuing TAG Heuer's motorsports celebrations for this year, the Swiss watchmaker unveiled a new multi-dimensional artwork created in collaboration with acclaimed contemporary visual artist, Werner Bronkhorst. Sitting pride of place in the recently renovated flagship Sydney boutique, the triptych of artworks pays tribute to TAG Heuer's indelible legacy in the world of motor racing and Formula 1.
In the first piece, Bronkhorst captures the essence of the TAG Heuer x F1 partnership through a textured canvas adorned with a detailed outline of the Red Bull Ring, located in Spielberg and hosting the Austrian Grand Prix each year. A series of precise miniature paintings of the Red Bull racing cars are scattered along the track, illustrating the brand's existing partnership with the reigning Driver's Championship-winning team.
The second piece focuses on the Porsche 917K, a model made famous by Steve McQueen in the 1971 film Le Mans. In that iconic film, McQueen portrays an endurance racer who, by virtue of real-life driver turned instructor Jo Siffert, has a penchant for the TAG Heuer Monaco. Featuring the classic orange and blue livery with miniature Porsche 917K cars on the Monaco Grand Prix Circuit, the sculpture celebrates TAG Heuer's heritage and its continued presence within motor racing as the title sponsor of the Formula 1 TAG Heuer Grand Prix De Monaco 2025.
Finally, Bronkhorst's Porsche 911 sculpture provides a local connection, celebrating the first race of the 2025 Formula 1 season at Melbourne's Albert Park and TAG Heuer's announcement as the official timekeeper. The sculpture features the red-painted racetrack and miniature paintings of Porsche 911 cars, representing the global TAG Heuer Porsche partnership that began in 2021.
'TAG Heuer's proud history in motorsports is brilliantly captured in Werner Bronkhorst's artwork,' TAG Heuer Australia and New Zealand general manager Van Mulryan said. 'His storytelling approach, connecting all facets of our racing heritage, reflects a genuine passion. As the final touch to our renovated Sydney Boutique, we're delighted to display this piece, so our clients can experience this storytelling firsthand.'
You can now check out Werner Bronkhorst's installation at the TAG Heuer Sydney Boutique for yourself. The installation was completed on May 22, the commencement date of the Formula 1 TAG Heuer Grand Prix De Monaco.
IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Le Petit Prince | Image: IWC Schaffhausen
IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Le Petit Prince
Brand: IWC
IWC Model: Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Le Petit Prince
Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Le Petit Prince Reference: Ref. IW504901
Ref. IW504901 Diameter: 46.50mm
46.50mm Thickness: 16.18mm
16.18mm Material : Ceramic
: Ceramic Movement : Calibre 51950
: Calibre 51950 Power Reserve: 168 hours
168 hours Water Resistance: 100 metres
100 metres Price: CHF100,000 (Limited to 100 pieces)
IWC unveiled its latest and greatest in the new Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Le Petit Prince. Clad in blue ceramic and featuring a whopping big tourbillon at 12 o'clock, the Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Le Petit Prince is, despite what the name might suggest, anything but petite. It measures 46.50mm across by 16.18mm in thickness, and boasts a perpetual calendar along with a tourbillon and comes strapped on textured rubber.
The Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Le Petit Prince in blue ceramic is as striking as it is boisterous. I love the gold crown, a staple for all of IWC's Big Pilot watches. While its aesthetic is far from subtle, the combination of gold and blue paired with two high-complication functions is an absolute win in my book.
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli | Image: Zenith
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli
Brand: Zenith
Zenith Model: Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli
Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli Reference: Ref. 03.3400.3610/51.C910
Ref. 03.3400.3610/51.C910 Diameter: 38mm
38mm Thickness: 14mm
14mm Material : Stainless steel
: Stainless steel Movement: El Primero 3610
El Primero 3610 Power Reserve: 60 hours
60 hours Water Resistance: 50 metres
50 metres Price: USD$22,700
Wow, what a standout. Zenith's Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar is by far my favourite reference from the maison, and in its latest iteration, the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar absolutely shines. This reference continues Zenith's blue theme for its 160th anniversary with a stunning lapis lazuli dial, the same stone found on the new G.F.J released at Watches And Wonders 2025.
Proportion and construction-wise, Zenith hasn't toyed with the process too much, opting to retain the same 38mm diameter size, 14mm thickness and 46mm lug-to-lug properties. The lapis lazuli dial looks exceptional and serves as the perfect backdrop to the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar's functions and layout. Similarly, the typical El Primero tri-compax layout remains with a chronograph seconds counter subdial at 3 o'clock, a 60-minute chronograph totaliser with a moon-phase aperture at 6 o'clock and a running seconds subdial at 9 o'clock.
Most importantly, the use of the new stone dial looks every bit a winner, fusing unique design language with heritage inspiration. Make no mistake, Zenith has gone to town with the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar, packing it with bucket loads of data and tech into a case that isn't overly large at all. Pair that with the lapis lazuli dial, and we have a solid winner from Zenith, which seems to be the trend as of late.
MB&F SP One | Image: MB&F
MB&F SP One
Brand: MB&F
MB&F Model: SP One
SP One Diameter: 38mm
38mm Thickness: 12mm
12mm Material : Platinum; Rose gold
: Platinum; Rose gold Movement: Calibre SP One
Calibre SP One Power Reserve: 72 hours
72 hours Water Resistance: 30 metres
30 metres Price: CHF63,000 (Platinum); CHF58,000 (Rose gold)
Max Busser and friends can do no wrong, and with the SP One, we not only get a new watch at a nice price point but also (potentially) a whole new collection of watches. The brand's latest release, which is available in either platinum or rose gold, could well be its most impressive in both design and functionality. With the SP One, we have a virtually open-worked dial with minimal architecture on display.
At 38mm in diameter and 12mm thick, the new timepiece isn't exactly slim by traditional dress watch metrics, but the unique openworked construction makes it appear more streamlined than it actually is. What's more, MB&F watches aren't known for refined form factors, so the new proportions do feel like an important and entirely welcomed departure from the norm.
MB&F's in-house calibre, eponymously named after the watch it powers, powers the SP One. The SP One is interesting because it's very dissimilar to anything MB&F has produced in the past, yet it looks as much an MB&F as any other watch the Maison has made, if that makes sense. The airy structure might be a bit much, but I really like it.
Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde | Image: Breguet
Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde
Brand: Breguet
Breguet Model: Tradition Seconde Rétrograde
Tradition Seconde Rétrograde Reference: Ref. 7035BH/H2/9V6
Ref. 7035BH/H2/9V6 Diameter: 38mm
38mm Thickness: 12.60mm
12.60mm Material : Breguet gold
: Breguet gold Movement: Calibre 505SR
Calibre 505SR Power Reserve: 50 hours
50 hours Water Resistance: 30 metres
30 metres Price: AUD$74,600 (Limited to 250 pieces)
After dropping a stunning Classique Souscription 2025 last month, Breguet's birthday celebrations are in full swing, with the heritage watchmaker dropping a new Tradition Seconde Rétrograde to mark its 250th anniversary. Clad in Breguet gold and featuring a flinque enamel dial, the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde is everything that we know and love about Breguet, just made better.
Taking design cues from the maison's revered collection of established timepieces, the latest novelty arrives in a safe 38mm case made from Breguet Gold. Created especially for the anniversary celebrations from a blend of gold, silver, copper, and palladium, the bespoke alloy lands in the sweet spot between traditional yellow gold and more contemporary rose gold hues. It is, to put it simply, stunning, and it's a similar story on the dial.
The Tradition Seconde Rétrograde features an intricately designed engine-turned dial crafted from gold and decorated in flinque enamel. Throw in the classic Breguet hands and numerals, and you've got a remarkable timepiece that pays homage to the most important name in modern watchmaking. The Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 is limited to just 250 pieces worldwide and priced at a stellar AUD$74,600.