18 hours ago
Why You Need To Know About This Wine Lover's Retreat Up In The Italian Mountains
Brixen sits in the heart of the Isarco Valley, one of South Tyrol's most distinctive wine regions. Thomas Roetting,
Food and wine lovers are always searching for destinations that combine authenticity with refinement. Some chase fads, but most seek places where culinary traditions and memorable landscapes converge naturally. The Alpine town of Brixen (Bressanone) offers exactly that. Tucked between the Dolomites and the vineyards, pastures, and apple orchards of the Isarco Valley, it is ideal for travellers drawn to scenic beauty and a strong farm-to-table ethos.
While winter draws skiers to the nearby slopes, it's the summer months when Brixen's culinary scene comes into its own. The town is also at its most inviting, as hikers and cyclists gather before taking to the trails in search of mountain terrain and valley backdrops. Compact but full of character, Brixen's narrow cobbled streets and vaulted arcades house restaurants, bars, and cafés - all proudly dressed in South Tyrolean tradition.
The valley landscapes close to Brixen Georg Bühler
Brixen, the oldest city in South Tyrol, is part of a region defined by both Italian and German heritage. Administratively Italian, it retains a strong German influence from the days when it belonged to the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It was once of strategic geographic importance, and the town's medieval arcades, Baroque cathedral, and the White Tower reveal a past influenced by ecclesiastical power and cross-cultural exchange.
Today it is a quiet town, often in the shadow of Bozen (Bolzano). It is however a great backdrop for thoughtful food and wine tourism. In 2024, Brixen approached one million overnight stays, an indication of its growing international profile. While most guests still arrive from Italy, Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, there is a rising presence of visitors from further afield - the UK, Poland, the Netherlands, and the USA - discovering a town where history, architecture, gastronomy, and viticulture meet with unusual coherence. "We're doing well. Of course we get the ski season visitors, but people are coming here in the summer for our great food and scenery' says Erica Kircheis, of the local tourism board.
The minimalist dining hall at Fink is a great place to enjoy some of Alto Adige's best wines alongside local food. Fink Restaurant & Suites
One of the clearest and most memorable introductions to local wine and cuisine can be found at Fink. Located in a design focussed guesthouse, this is one of Brixen's most confident kitchens. The menu positions itself as monastic simplicity, a reference to the monasteries in the hills above the town. It features ideas such as spelt tagliolini with herb pesto, lake trout, and veal saddle. The wine selection highlights a broad curation of some of the region's best wines, including from the Lagrein grape with its dusky dark fruit and full bodied structure. It is the hyper local white wines of the Eisacktal (Isarco) Valley that really stand out.
Locals describe their cuisine in three words: fresh, regional and sophisticated. Antonia Fink, who has developed nine upscale suites in her hotel, points out that if she had to choose just one typical dish to prepare for a guest, 'it would be the schultzer - half moon shaped pasta parcels similar to ravioli. They'd be homemade of course, freshly prepared, and preferably filled with nettles' she says.
Seasonal, traditional eating is part of the town's foodie charm. Whether it's strawberries in the spring, chanterelle mushrooms in the summer, or chestnuts in autumn, there is a lot to love. Residents are proud to describe how a generation of young, talented chefs has emerged, and they frequently dive into their grandmother's recipe books to reinvent the old dishes. Look out for nettle dumplings with a glass of crisp, white Sylvaner.
Menus across Brixen reflect the region's Alpine roots and Italian flair in equal measure. You'll often find schlutzkrapfen, filled with spinach and ricotta, finished with butter and chives. Heartier options include knödel, bread dumplings flavoured with speck or cheese, served in broth or with sage butter. Schüttelbrot, a hard, thin rye bread seasoned with fennel, caraway, and sometimes coriander is served frequently, as are potato fritters with sauerkraut; and for those with a sweet tooth, few things feel more fitting after a day exploring the town than a slice of warm apfelstrudel, laced with cinnamon and served with whipped cream.
Traubenwirt in the town centre is one of the best places for hearty, traditional portions. Dishes such as beef stew with speck dumplings or Wienerschnitzel in butter breaded veal cutlet, with roasted potatoes and cranberry jam, are big favorites. Again the wine list is extensive, and lands a nice focus on selections from the local co-operative. The space is informal, but classy, with its frescoes, ancient columns and arched ceilings offset by white table cloths. Lunch times get very busy, especially on a Sunday, when the whole place clamours with family gatherings.
Brixen town centre surrounded by hills. Thomas Roetting
Housed in Brixen's former slaughterhouse, Alter Schlachthof has been reimagined as a lively, contemporary space where good food accompanies a relaxed vibe. Its location in the heart of the old town makes it a natural meeting point, whether for coffee, a glass of wine, or something more substantial. The kitchen favors local ingredients and seasonal produce, so you can expect all the South Tyrol classics, alongside lighter, Mediterranean influences. In summer, the riverside garden offers one of the town's most atmospheric spots to eat or linger over an aperitivo. Regular live music and cultural events give the space an informal energy that has made it a popular with both Brixner and visitors.
Nearby, Lasserhaus is a cool and convenient place to base yourself for a few nights. It offers boutique accommodation with a quieter, more residential feel. Set within a carefully restored building that reflects Brixen's architectural traditions, Lasserhaus is known for its connection to art and cultural heritage. The interiors feature curated pieces by local artists, while the building itself has ties to the town's long artistic legacy.
The contemporary design of the Bauhaus Bauhaus
Alternatively, the Bauhaus should be considered. Cool, contemporary, and architecturally significant, it is Brixen's most important modern landmarks. The building reflects the clean lines and functional elegance of Bauhaus design, offering a sharp contrast to the historic fabric of the old town. For visitors interested in architecture or simply looking for a stay that feels distinct from the region's Alpine traditions, it offers something entirely different. Of course, it's still just shorter than the church.
A short walk away, as everything here always is, Vinothek Vitis Enoteca is a great reference for a glass of wine, hidden in a cobbled passageway. The menu is refined, but the list has endless curiosities on it, such as amphora-fermented Kerner from a young local grower. There's also a good selection of older vintages that showcase how well the Isarco Valley's white wines can evolve over time. The tone is intimate, making it a natural choice for couples searching quiet undisturbed evenings over a nice bottle.
From the centre of Brixen, it's easy to explore on foot or by bike, following the Isarco River north towards the Abbey of Novacella. The route follows gentle, well-marked paths that lead out of town, winding past vineyards, orchards, and farmland, with the mountains ever present on the horizon.
Cheeses maturing in Degust's repurposed WW2 bunker. Degust
Along the way, it's worth pausing at Degust, founded in 1994 by renowned South Tyrolean chef Hansi Baumgartner from nearby Varna. His cheeses are matured in a repurposed Second World War bunker, where Baumgartner and his team age Alpine cow's milk and goat cheeses with remarkable precision. Tastings take place at Degust's shop, where cheeses are often paired with local wines from the Valle Isarco, and the other five sub zones of the Alto-Adige DOC.
The Novacella Monastery Winery. Debora Catania
Continuing on, the Abbey of Novacella is one of South Tyrol's most significant cultural and viticultural landmarks. Founded in the 12th century and still home to a religious community, the abbey also functions as a school, boarding house, and winery. Its library, with over 100,000 volumes, reflects the intellectual legacy of the region, while the vineyards that surround the property are far from a gimmick, and produce distinctive wines, particularly the 'Praepositus' line. Tours of the abbey conclude with a tasting, where the estate's Kerner often stands out - bright, mineral, and unmistakably shaped by the altitude and soils of this part of the valley.
Another of South Tyrol's most well-known walking routes begins here too. The Chestnut Trail, or Keschtnweg in the local dialect, traces the slopes of the valley for over 90 kilometres, winding through, chestnut groves obviously, but also vineyards, and small villages. The route extends from Varna, near the abbey, beyond Castel Roncolo near Bolzano, eventually reaching the Adige Valley near Terlano and Vilpiano. For anyone keen to raise their step count, this is a quiet but evocative way to explore the agricultural and cultural landscape that has shaped this part of South Tyrol for centuries.
Also a short distance outside town, Viertel Bier adds a different voice to Brixen's culinary landscape. Based in the historic Putzer Inn, which dates back to 1771, the brewery produces just over 70,000 litres of beer annually. Founded in 2021 by four entrepreneurs from Eisacktal, it carries forward the legacy of the Köstlan brewery, focusing on local and partly organic ingredients.
Their seven core beers are supplemented by seasonal offerings, with tasting sessions often highlighting the unique malt character of the region. 'South Tyrol is probably the only region in Europe where beer and wine consumption are equal. Both beer and wine are part of our heritage' says co-founder Willi Obwexer. The fact that Viertel shares ownership with Alter Schlachthof further integrates beer into Brixen's broader food narrative.
Haller Suites Brixen Tim Schardt
One more recommendation? Haller Suites & Restaurant offers a dining experience with panoramic views over the episcopal town. The former Haller inn has been reimagined by Teresa Pichler, who inherited her parents' guesthouse and transformed it into a contemporary space that bridges tradition and modern hospitality. As a trained sommelière, Pichler curates a wine list rooted in the vineyards of the Isarco Valley, with a particular emphasis on small producers and structured, mineral whites that reflect the altitude and stony soils. The kitchen, meanwhile, draws directly from the region's ingredients - mountain herbs, freshwater fish, and alpine dairy.
For a small town, Brixen offers an unexpected wealth of options for those who care about food, wine, and the outdoors. The restaurants are thoughtful, the local wines great value, and the easy access to restorative walks through the surrounding hills makes the town all the more appealing. With its balance of good taste and authenticity, Brixen is an ideal choice for a relaxed, short break in northern Italy.
