Latest news with #TinkaWeener
Forbes
21-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
Songs Of Siren: A Tribute To Indian Master Artisans
Greek mythology-inspired luxury label Songs of Siren pays homage to Indian artisans Indian artisan communities have quietly powered the global fashion industry for decades, their extraordinary skills often uncredited despite driving major luxury collections. From Prada's interpretation of traditional Kolhapuri sandals to Louis Vuitton's autorickshaw-inspired bags and Gucci's custom sari for actress Alia Bhatt at the 2025 Cannes Film Festival, the fashion world increasingly turns to India for inspiration, yet the master craftspeople behind these techniques remain largely invisible. Designer Tinka Weener is changing that narrative with her couture label Songs of Siren, launched in late 2024. Drawing from her experience freelance styling for Alexander McQueen and working across retail, photography, and fashion PR in Los Angeles, Weener has created a brand that doesn't just borrow from Indian traditions, but celebrates them as the centerpiece of every collection. A Modern Mythology Rooted in Ancient Indian Craft "The collection is positioned as a modern interpretation of timeless tales, celebrating the power and allure of femininity in a contemporary context," Weener explains. While her brand takes its name from Greek mythology and reimagines sirens not as dangerous temptresses but as powerful feminine archetypes, the soul of Songs of Siren lies in India's textile heritage. Her debut collection features intricate hand-beading and sculptural silhouettes designed to make women look and feel their best. The meticulous detail and artistry found in traditional Indian embroidery techniques are meant to empower the wearer, a concept deeply inspired by her time at Alexander McQueen, where she witnessed firsthand how exceptional craftsmanship could transform both garment and wearer. Songs of Siren's luxury garments range in price from $895 to $1,250 and is made for the modern ... More woman. Authentic Indian Collaboration, Not Cultural Appropriation Shot in Mumbai and creatively directed by Indiana Vos, Songs of Siren's latest campaign serves as a vibrant love letter to India's rich textile traditions. But this isn't surface-level inspiration. In fact, Weener has built her entire creative and production team around authentic Indian collaboration. Working with Indian stylist Shrreeya Shorewala, the campaign incorporates traditional accessories and clothing pieces including saris, potli bags, and dhoti pants. The models are women of South Asian descent wearing culturally inspired accessories. "There is this elegance and confidence in Indian women that you cannot find anywhere else," Weener notes. "Everyone is so warm and welcoming and they really make me feel at home whenever I'm there." This approach stands in stark contrast to fashion's tendency to reduce rich cultural traditions to "bohemian" trends mixed with Western wear. Instead, Songs of Siren places Indian craftsmanship at the focus, giving it the respect and recognition it deserves. The Art of Aari: Preserving Ancient Indian Techniques At the heart of Weener's collections lies the Aari technique, which is an embroidery method using a hooked needle that requires extraordinary skill and patience. Craftsmen sit on the floor, one hand plying the sharp needle from above while the other feeds silk thread from below the fabric. It's painstakingly time-consuming and detail-oriented work, with each piece emerging as a unique work of art. Tinka merges Greek and Biblical symbolism with India's ancient textile wisdom, resulting in a body ... More of work that feels both divine and deeply rooted. "I love how it's the polar opposite of what a lot of fashion brands do in this day and age," Weener explains. "It's not focused on speed and overconsumption. I wanted to create a brand that slows down the process and focuses on the human aspect to create truly timeless pieces of wearable art." Working with Anurag Vora, Co-Founder of Ricamour Embroideries, Weener communicates her vision through drawings, mood boards, and inspiration images. The collaborative process involves multiple stages: creating small swatches for feedback, developing artwork for beading on dress panels, and maintaining constant communication through work-in-progress photos and videos to ensure the final pieces align perfectly with her creative vision. Ethical Conditions Are Cornerstone Of This Indian-Inspired Brand In an industry facing increasing scrutiny over labor practices such as the recent expose of Italian luxury brand Loro Piana over worker abuse, Weener has made ethical conditions non-negotiable. Her partner atelier focuses intensively on fair labor practices and ethical working conditions, providing not just fair wages and paid annual leave, but government-mandated pensions and private health insurance that extends to workers' families. During Diwali, the annual Festival of Lights, artisans receive annual bonuses, with top performers earning higher rewards for exceptional work. The atelier also provides interest-free loans to help craftspeople buy houses or land, ensuring their families' long-term financial security. This comprehensive approach to worker welfare stands as a model for how fashion brands can operate ethically while producing extraordinary work. Recognizing And Celebrating Indian Fashion More than commercial success, Songs of Siren represents a fundamental shift in how fashion brands can engage with cultural traditions. Rather than extracting inspiration without acknowledgment, Weener has built her entire brand around showcasing and celebrating Indian artisanship on the global stage. "We produce in India and work directly with extraordinarily skilled artisans," she emphasizes. "We want to highlight their incredible work and demonstrate that we are not outsourcing or trying to hide where our garments come from. Their artistry, attention to detail, and brilliance help bring our creative vision to life, and we want to celebrate that." Thhe Aari technique is known for producing intricate and detailed designs which is commonly used ... More with beads, sequins, and metallic threads. Each garment tells a story of collaboration and respect, transforming fashion from cultural appropriation into genuine partnership. The campaign brings India's master craftspeople into the spotlight where they belong: not as hidden labor, but as celebrated artists. "My ultimate goal is for everyone who wears one of these pieces to feel confident and proud," Weener concludes. 'I want them to know that they are wearing a work of art, infused with history and created with passion. This is about empowering through fashion and giving a global platform to the incredible Indian artisans who are the true stars of this project.'
Forbes
15-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
Tinka Weener On The Ancient Inspiration Behind Songs Of Siren
Models wearing the Zodiac Dress and the two-piece Rose Blossoming Set. Photo by Dion Bal. Tinka Weener Tinka Weener, the lovely young woman behind Songs of Siren, designs happy clothing. Exquisite, hand-beaded fantasies in fabric, these are dresses designed to be worn when stories are about to happen. They call out, perhaps 'sing' would be a better word, for admiration they are very much deserving of. Weener's brand, Songs of Siren, is a very new venture; it was founded in December of 2024. Weener's first collection (five dresses, a skirt-and-top-set and three geometric bags) debuted at London Fashion Week earlier this year, as part of Fashion Crossover London's Rising Stars event when SOS was only a few weeks old. Not a bad start, definitely auspicious, which makes the antediluvian inspirations behind these sparkling party dresses all the more mysterious. I met with the Los Angeles based designer earlier this month to talk about her work and discovered that Tinka Weener is as elegantly effervescent in person as her designs suggest. Her work is exceptionally feminine but the mythology and history referenced in her decorative motifs are often much more worldly than femininity is usually understood to imply. This intrigued me, and I had to ask the designer about herself, her early connection to clothing. The OCEANA Dress. Photo by Dion Bal. Tinka Weener 'My parents raised me gender neutral,' Weener told me, 'which is what initially sparked my interest in fashion and the messages that it portrays to society. I was also the only girl in both sides of my family, and I only had boy friends. I very clearly remember that when I was 10 years old, that I really, really wanted to get a dress that I had seen outside of a local boutique, because it seemed so unique to me, because I'd never worn a dress, a skirt, or honestly, anything that was considered girly at the time. I remember saving up for it by doing tasks around the neighborhoods, and I felt so amazing and proud when I was finally able to buy it. I think this transitioned to experimenting a lot with clothing during my teenage years. I just thought it was so interesting that for the outside world, I could be perceived so differently, just based upon the clothing that I decided to wear. It just felt like shape-shifting. I think that was truly like my initial spark to fashion, to what it could mean.' The working for things she wanted continued, became a pattern in the designer's life, leading her to achievement after achievement. Quality, and attention to the smallest of details, always remained a throughline. 'I became intrigued by the craftsmanship of Embroidered Couture when I worked for Alexander McQueen,' Weener explained. 'After this, I worked for many years in public relations for other fashion designers, and I also freelanced for agencies in Los Angeles, Japan, and Europe. By working with a lot of independent designers, I always knew that I wanted to start my own brand one day, but I was always a little bit too insecure and nervous. It felt like I din't understand the full process, the manufacturing process, the business side of it. But after speaking with many of these designers, and them telling me to try it out and see what happens. What originally sparked my interest was just drawing some patterns, making some artworks, and eventually that's transformed into a full collection. It just went step by step, and eventually I had the six dresses that are now Songs of Siren.' The Zodiac Dress. Photo by Dion Bal. Tinka Weener Looking at her work, it is obvious that history is a big part of this artist, and please understand that Tinka Weener is absolutely an artist; an infatuation with the past is part of who Tinka is personally and that emotion is part of what she of herself into her designs. I wanted to know if the name was as literal as I thought it was. 'Songs of Siren is very heavily influenced by the original women from Greek mythology,' Weener told me. 'I also use a lot of biblical and astrology references and such, but the name comes from the Sirens who lured the sailor men to their deaths with their songs. The archetype of the Siren is very symbolized by femininity and feminism, and power and allure. And Songs of Siren connects very deeply with modern feminists who suffered the male gaze and transformed it into a source of strength. So you could say in a way that my dresses are symbolized by the songs that the siren used to sing.' It's almost archetypal, the way Weener has assigned a motif to each look in her first collection. I wanted to know what else she looked to for ideas. 'I get inspiration, honestly, from everywhere,' Weener said to me with a big smile. 'I get it from museums and art galleries. And like I mentioned, in Greek mythology, and also old biblical paintings or Zodiac signs. I just started with the drawings and then developed this into artworks, and then created the patterns and produced the actual garments.' An illustration by Tinka Weener, and the final beaded embroidery it became. Tinka Weener The artwork, its part in her process, this is something that intrigues this writer endlessly. To create the images which become intricate beading on the final dresses, Tinka Weener turns the stories she loves into drawings. 'Initially,' the designer explained, 'I always work in pen. Sometimes I draw on my iPhone, and develop this into something bigger. And like it just started, for example, I see a painting in an art gallery, and then I love the color range of it. Then I start thinking, what do these colors mean to me? And how can I develop this into a piece that will truly empower the wearer?' I love knowing that Tinka Weener is out in the world thinking about this. Even before I met her, I could tell that the work I looked at was carefully and thoughtfully created. I knew it when I saw her choices in color and fabric, and so that is where the conversation went next. Does Weener have rules for herself? How does she choose color and textiles? An illustration by Tinka Weener, and the final beaded embroidery it became. Tinka Weener 'I don't follow specific rules for my colors,' she told me with another smile. 'But I do love using colors that evoke emotions. For example, the bright orange dress, The Eternal Sunshine, the sun symbolizes the start of life for a lot of cultures, you see it in old paintings, or the midnight blue from the Zodiac dress. I want people who wear my brand to feel sort of like transformative power, like a feeling of happiness or brightness. I wore The Eternal Sunshine dress myself during London Fashion Week, because I was a bit nervous, and I wanted to feel powerful on the catwalk. The light pink Rose Blossoming Set gives me a sense of femininity and calmness while the black Serpent dress gives me a feeling of rebellion and power. It has a snake biting into an apple from the Adam and Eve story on it, symbolizing the first act of female rebellion. I think that every dress or bag that I make has a sort of transformative, shape-shifting element to them.' The designer thinks about her textiles in a manner similar to the way she thinks about her use of color. Everything is about emotion. 'I use a lot of hand-breeded elements, because I think that the sparkle of life provokes happiness and emotion,' Weener told me. And I can see this so easily. This is a woman who designs happy clothes, even when the subject matter is a little spooky. Its hard to even look at them without feeling buoyant. I like this a lot. A model wearing the Rose Blossoming Set poses at Fashion Crossover London Presents: The Rising Stars event at London Fashion Week. Photo by NickyGetty Images for Fashion Crossover London Presents: The Rising Stars 'I think that clothing is really like a sort of port between the inner and the outer,' the designer continued, 'so I try to touch your biggest emotions and feelings. For my next collection, I'm also going to be using a lot of silks and soft materials that feel very soft, and that makes you feel a certain way when you're dressing it.' There's a sense of geometry in this body of work. Some of that comes from the ancient inspirations behind it, some of it is the designer's purposeful attention. Showing at London Fashion Week earlier this year, there was a geometry to that too. Weener had been before, while working at Alexander McQueen, but to be at such an important event for her own work? That's something else entirely. 'For me, showing at London Fashion Week was truly like a full circle moment,' Weener said to me. 'I used to work as a backstage photographer and assistant many times when I lived in London. It was wonderful. I feel lucky. Because it feels like being recognized by the fashion industry, by such a huge entrepreneurial outlet is just humongous to me.' 'I had only launched the brand two months before I got the email with an invitation. It was incredibly hectic and nerve-wracking, but I knew I could not miss out on the opportunity. I think I didn't sleep for days before. I was so nervous, so excited. And after, it felt like such a relief. I've been riding that high for like several months now. It was just…' Weener trailed off and smiled at me. I could see how proud she was of all her hard work. This is an earnest young woman who very much wants to make the world better by helping us focus on beauty a little more. A model wears The Eternal Sunshine Dress. Photo by Dion Bal. Tinka Weener I felt rather proud of her too, and I told her as much. There is no need to minimize achievement. And what did it feel like, to see her collection walk down that runway? 'I was just ecstatic,' Weener grinned. 'I remember walking in. I think in the past, walking during fashion weeks, I always tried to make myself as invisible as possible because I didn't want to stand out, because I was an assistant or I was a backstage photographer. But now, being able to be the face of my brand was just so overwhelming. I was also very focused during the show and after the show, and I tried to talk to as many people as possible that normally would not be getting that. I really made a point of also talking to the assistants or the interns and tried to make them feel as ecstatic as I felt at that moment.' She remembers what it was like to be on that side, in the moment of someone else triumph, though Tinka Weener would never phrase it that way. But someone she made time for, either at this show or at another in the future, will one day have their own similar experience. That's another full circle moment, and its one of those small actions that snowball over time, making a bigger impact than anyone could ever have hoped for. This is how fashion becomes kinder, more inclusive, how we work as a culture to expand the definition of 'beautiful.' 'Exactly,' Weener said to me. 'With the interns, I wanted to tell them, hey, I was exactly where you are. And like next time, hopefully I'm going to be seeing your collection for the showcase here. I feel like nowadays it's no longer the days of like The Devil Wears Prada. And I don't want to sound cliche with the whole like spreading kindness nonsense, but I just think that should be like a core value of every brand working with models and just everyone. I just want everybody to be friends, honestly, and the same concept with almost everyone that I've worked with. I add them on Instagram. I stay in contact because it truly see it as like one big happy family in the end. Well, it should be.' A model in The Morning Glory Dress and designer Tinka Weener at the end of Songs of Siren's debut at Fashion Crossover London Presents: The Rising Stars event at London Fashion Week. Photo by NickyTinka Weener 'I think a lot of women always remember what garment they were wearing at a specific moment,' Tinka Weener told me. 'If I think about historical moments in my own life, like, and I was wearing that dress, or I was wearing that piece, which is why I keep a lot of pieces, because I kind of like my personal museum of history. And I love what I did at Songs of Siren, can become that for someone.'
