Latest news with #Tokugawa
2 days ago
- Automotive
Shizuoka: A Global Center for Plastic Modeling
The city of Shizuoka is a modeling mecca. Home to 10 hobby manufacturers—Tamiya, Bandai, Aoshima, and Hasegawa, to name a few—it is where more than 80% of Japan's plastic model kits are produced. The town is so passionate about its status that authorities at city hall created a special department to promote plastic models, playfully proclaiming the municipality 'A Model City.' To highlight its modeling culture, Shizuoka has established 15 life-size monuments shaped like plastic model kits around town. These include information signs as well as working public phones and a mailbox designed to look like kits with pieces still attached to their runners. Clockwise from upper left: a monument in the shopping arcade near Shizuoka Station features parts of a seat and a digital display of a Shinkansen; the monument at the smoking area near the station's north exit consists of parts from a large outdoor ashtray; a monument designed like an old-style model box and a newly opened kit advertises Shizuoka's connection to modeling. (© ) The monument outside Shizuoka City Hall is an actual post box. (© ) The monuments have garnered attention as the modeling market as a whole continues to enjoy broad popularity. According to a Tamiya spokesperson, the pandemic brought a brisk uptick in sales for plastic models as people stayed at home, with the hobby taking on a family flair as parents and children shared in the fun of building replicas together. Makers have also capitalized on the growing popularity of radio-controlled cars as more people take to the outdoors for activities like camping. These trends have fueled the sales of higher-end items as former hobbyists rediscover modeling in middle age and snap up expensive kits that were once beyond their budgets. Tamiya's Hotshot. The four-wheel-drive radio-controlled buggy debuted in 1985 and remains a popular item with hobbyists of all ages. (© ) Hobby Square is another site celebrating Shizuoka's modeling industry. The facility, near the south exit of JR Shizuoka Station, has displays highlighting the history of plastic modeling and exhibits from different makers, including rare and historic items. The onsite shop carries new releases and specialty items. Characters from the Mobile Suit Gundam series, a mainstay among modeling enthusiasts, greet visitors to Hobby Square. (© ) New and historic items are on exhibit at Hobby Square. (© ) An exhibit detailing the manufacturing process for Gundam models. (© ) Manufacturer Bandai offers specially designed model kits as part of its Gunpla Academia, a school-based initiative to introduce students to the world of craftsmanship. (© ) Deep-Rooted Craftsmanship Shizuoka's tradition of craftsmanship was greatly influenced by Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543–1616), the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate that ruled Japan for more than 200 years. As a young boy, Ieyasu was a political hostage in Sunpu, which later became the modern city of Shizuoka. At age 40, he took control of the area, relocating from Hamamatsu to the southwest, and built Sunpu Castle in 1589. Ieyasu gathered master carpenters, sculptors, metalworkers, and other skilled craftsmen from around Japan for the project. He also rebuilt the important Sengen Shrine and later expanded the confines of the castle, where he settled after passing the title of shōgun to his son Hidetada, although he continued to wield power behind the scenes. After Ieyasu's death in 1616, the craftsmen constructed Kunōzan Shrine as his resting place. Later shōguns supported these artisans, and many settled in the area, taking advantage of the surrounding forests to create exquisite crafts. Such traditions as Suruga bamboo craftwork are still produced today. A plastic model monument featuring the golden Kindamigusoku armor worn by Tokugawa Ieyasu. (© ) The Model Industry Lifts Off Shizuoka's modern model-making industry dates to 1924 when aviation enthusiast Aoshima Jirō founded an airplane research center in the city. Using his knowledge and experience, Aoshima started manufacturing wooden model airplane kits, which he began to sell in 1932. The models were used to teach aviation, becoming popular items nationwide. Restrictions in the postwar years forced the area's burgeoning number of manufacturers to shift to selling wooden ships. From the late 1950s, as imported plastic models grew in popularity, they adopted plastic for their kits. Aoshima established Aoshima Bunka Kyōzai in 1961 to develop and manufacture model kits, and the company grew to be an industry leader with its easy-to-build offerings. Early wooden models made by Aoshima's company on display at Hobby Square. (© ) A Global Model Giant Emerges Tamiya is another Shizuoka success story. Founded as a lumber company in 1946, it began selling wooden model kits in 1948, making these its primary offering after closing the lumber mill in 1953. It released its first all-plastic kit, a 1/800 scale of the Japanese battleship Yamato , in 1960, but it was the Panther, a 1/35 scale motorized tank issued in 1962, that gave the firm its first major hit and led to the establishment of a separate plastic molding division. Tamiya continued to find modeling success, including the 1976 release of the 1/12 scale radio-controlled Porsche 934 Turbo and its mini 4WD models of the 1980s. It began expanding overseas, and in 1994, it set up its only factory abroad, in Cebu, Philippines, making the firm one of the largest model manufacturers in the world. Clockwise from upper left: Wooden boat models; the 1/800 scale model of the Yamato ; Tamiya's Panther tank. (© ) Tamiya's radio-controlled Porsche 934 Turbo (right), which triggered an R/C car boom in Japan, and other offerings in the series. (© ) Tamiya Craftsmanship Tamiya offers fans several exhibits of interest at its head office. The Archive Room displays products from early wooden models to modern creations, and the lobby of its headquarters features actual sports cars and other vehicles, many of which have been turned into R/C models. The exhibits are open to the public by reservation. Racing cars on display at Tamiya's headquarters. (© ) Tamiya's Archive Room. (© ) Tamiya has also helped in establishing Takumishuku, a center highlighting the traditional crafts of the region. Visitors to the facility can try their hand at techniques like Suruga bamboo lattice ware, hand-dying, pottery, and lacquerware, providing a sense of the centuries-old culture of craftsmanship that remains the backbone of Shizuoka's plastic model industry. The interior of Takumishuku. (© ) A display of Suruga bamboo lattice ware and indigo dying. (© ) An artisan shows how Suruga bamboo lattice ware is made. (© ) (Originally published in Japanese. Reporting, text, and photos by . Banner photo: Different plastic model monuments around Shizuoka. © .)
Tokyo Weekender
7 days ago
- Tokyo Weekender
What To Do in Kawagoe: A Charming, Historic 'Little Edo' Near Tokyo
Kawagoe has earned the nickname 'Little Edo' for a reason — it's brimming with impeccably preserved historic buildings, traditional food offerings and unique cultural experiences. Located in Saitama Prefecture, the city is a less than an hour's train journey away from Seibu-Shinjuku Station via the Red Arrow Limited Express. Kawagoe is a hugely popular day trip location for Tokyoites, and it's easy to see why. Keep reading for a perfect day-long itinerary — including a matcha tea ceremony experience in a picturesque Japanese garden and a stroll through the breathtaking remains of the original Edo Castle. Hikawa Shrine: Praying for Love and Family One of Kawagoe's most visited sites, Hikawa Shrine is often visited by couples and families to pray for marital harmony and family unity. It boasts 1500 years of history and served as a place of prayer for generations of feudal lords. You can participate in a number of unique and historic activities here. Be sure to pay a visit to the two towering zelkova trees on the shrine grounds, treasured for their connection to divinity. It is said that walking around the stone path around the trees in a figure-eight formation will enrich your spirit. Another must-try activity: walking through the long tunnel of ema (wooden prayer plates) and fishing out a special sea bream-shaped omikuji (paper fortune), which will predict your romantic fortune. Jikeido Hall Kita-in Temple: Witness Edo Castle Splendor Founded in 830 CE, Kita-in Temple is an important center for Tendai Buddhism; it's also home to several National Important Cultural Properties. Notably, it's the location of the only remaining structures from the original Edo Castle — after a fire destroyed much of the temple grounds in 1638, the third Tokugawa shogun, Iemitsu, ordered several palace buildings to be moved there to help with rebuilding. San-mon Gate Kitain Pagoda 'The temple's main gate, Sanmon, is referred to as 'miracle gate,' for its survival of the fire that burnt down much of Kawagoe in 1638,' our guide, Haruo Azami, explained to TW. Like the unassuming gate, many of Kita-in's structures possess a quiet strength difficult to capture in words. Its pagoda, for instance, is a two-tiered tahoto structure — a style that originates from Japan, unlike three or five-tiered builds inspired by Chinese pagodas. 'The Kita-in pagoda is particularly admired for its beauty and balance,' Azami said. Shogun Iemitsu's Birthplace Visitors can also look forward to seeing the (rumored) birthplace and living quarters of Shogun Iemitsu Tokugawa, part of the last remains of the original Edo Castle. Surrounding the historic rooms and priceless artifacts is Momijiyama Garden, an impeccably maintained oasis of towering willow trees and Japanese maple. 500 Statues of Rakan Also within the Kita-in Temple grounds are the 500 Statues of Rakan: carefully sculpted stone representations of Buddha's most enlightened disciples. Completed between the years 1782 and 1825, the statues feature a variety of facial expressions and poses and are said to relieve the suffering of their onlookers. Kawagoe Castle Ruins: Living Capsule of History A 10-minute walk away from Kita-in is Kawagoe Castle's Honmaru Palace, a surviving structure from the castle's later history. While Kawagoe Castle was originally built in 1457, the current Honmaru Palace was constructed in 1848 during the late Edo period and is one of the few remaining examples of Edo-period castle palace architecture. Although the existing palace dates to the 19th century, the site itself is steeped in history. Kawagoe Castle served as a key defensive stronghold for Edo and witnessed numerous significant events, including the great Kawagoe Night Battle of 1546. Architecturally, the palace is notable for its graceful samurai-style karahafu curved roof and the gleaming Tokugawa family crest that adorns it — a must-visit for history buffs. Miyoshino Shrine Right next to Honmaru Palace, Miyoshino Shrine was revered as an important religious site of the Tokugawa Shogunate. It was built some 1200 years ago, around the same time as Kita-in Temple, and enshrines four deities, including Sugawara no Michizane, the Shinto god of learning. Interestingly, the narrow path leading from the South Otemon Gate of Kawagoe Castle to the shrine inspired a famous Japanese nursery rhyme called 'Toryanse,' a fact which is commemorated with a monument on the shrine grounds. Kawagoe Warehouse District (Kurazukuri Street): Journey Back in Time Kurazukuri Street, a shopping hub that forms the bustling heart of Kawagoe City, is a must-visit during your trip. It is home to Toki no Kane (Time Bell Tower), perhaps the most frequently referenced and photographed landmark of the city. Kawagoe was an instrumental town of trade and commerce, and its warehouses remain today as eateries, cafes and miscellaneous souvenir stores. Here are a few of our favorites. Unagi Denbe: Luxurious Freshwater Eel Housed in a spacious, atmospheric Meiji era warehouse once home to an apothecary , Unagi Denbe offers incredible unajyu meals. Unajyu consists of grilled unagi — freshwater eel — laid carefully atop a bed of rice in a lacquered box. We tried the shop's bando taro premium eel, cooked kabayaki-style (with a soy-based sauce), which was sumptuous and flavor-rich beyond our expectations. For wagyu lovers, the restaurant also offers half-wagyu, half-unagi meals. Karaki Mokkou: Carve Your Own Chopsticks For a fun activity and a unique souvenir, head to Karaki Mokkou to craft your own chopsticks, choosing your favorite kind of wood and then carefully molding the chopsticks' shape. The experience is great for people of all ages. Smaller chopsticks are also available as an option for children. The workshop is run by Holiday, a bespoke furniture business in Yamada, Kawagoe city, and knowledgeable staff are available to guide you through the process. Each table features a phone stand above it, enabling visitors to film a cool time-lapse video of the entire process as an extra keepsake. Kashiya Yokocho: A Nostalgic Candy Alley Kashiya Yokocho, or Candy Alley, is just what it sounds like: a charming shopping street lined with about 30 confectionery shops. Kawagoe has many sweet treats to offer, both within Candy Alley and beyond . During our visit, we tried a number of snacks that were equally delicious and beautiful to look at: crème brûléed sweet potato (sweet potatoes are a specialty of Saitama, especially Kawagoe), giant mitarashi dango and candied strawberries with a sculptural net of spun sugar around them. Tranquil Matcha Tea Ceremony at Tantoku Garden While many places in Japan offer traditional tea ceremony experiences, Tantoku Garden stands out for its rich history, enchanting Japanese garden and kind guidance. The site was established in 1901, during the Meiji period, and has maintained its charm to this day. The garden's ethereal beauty attracts many visitors and wedding celebrations year-round, but we highly recommend booking the Matcha & Wasanbon Experience , crafted especially for tea enthusiasts; you can learn how to properly whisk and enjoy matcha from an experienced instructor and craft wasanbon (Japanese sugar sweets with over 200 years of history). How To Get to Kawagoe To get to Kawagoe from central Tokyo, take the Red Arrow Limited Express from Seibu-Shinjuku Station. To ride the Limited Express, a separate limited express ticket is required in addition to your regular fare ticket, which can be purchased on the day of travel at Limited Express ticket counters or online via Smooz in English. The Seibu Kawagoe Pass ensures a smooth and comfortable round trip from central Tokyo to Kawagoe and back, and only costs ¥700 (4.85 USD). You can purchase it in person a t the Limited Express ticket counter at Seibu-Shinjuku Station . Alternatively, purchasing a digital pass via Klook is highly recommended, as it allows you to board the train directly just by presenting a QR code on your mobile device. The blue ticket is the SEIBU KAWAGOE PASS with CO-EDO LOOP BUS 1-Day Ticket — it includes unlimited rides on local loop buses in the Kawagoe area.
Metropolis Japan
20-05-2025
- Metropolis Japan
Kawagoe Day Trip
Saitama Prefecture is a brewery townscape in Kawagoe City. A famous tourist destination in the Kanto region. Just 30 minutes from central Tokyo, Kawagoe in Saitama Prefecture feels like stepping into another century. With preserved Edo-era architecture, merchant history, and retro storefronts, this city known as 'Little Edo,' is a rewarding day trip from Tokyo's high-rises. Whether you're chasing cultural landmarks, local snacks or quiet charm, a Kawagoe day trip offers more than enough for a full-day adventure—especially for photographers, families or anyone burnt out on the bustle. The heart of Kawagoe's historic district is Kurazukuri Street. Here, low-slung buildings made of clay and tile evoke the fire-resistant warehouse style of the Edo Period. Some were rebuilt after the devastating 1893 fire, while others have been lovingly preserved. Shops line the street selling everything from handmade ceramics to roasted green tea, and on weekends, you'll spot locals in kimono browsing side by side with tourists. Don't miss: The architecture along Taisho Roman Dori Souvenir shops tucked into old kura storehouses The occasional aroma of roasted sweet potato Rising above the rooftops is the Toki no Kane (Time Bell Tower), which still chimes four times a day. Originally built in the 1600s, this wooden landmark has been rebuilt several times but remains Kawagoe's most enduring symbol. It's not just a photo stop—it's a soundscape, too. Time your visit with the chime at noon for the full effect. Candy Alley, or Kashiya Yokocho, is pure joy. This narrow lane is lined with old-fashioned candy shops that feel untouched by time. It began in the Meiji Period and still thrives today. Inside the shops, you'll find: Bright red candied apples Soy sauce-flavored rice crackers Whimsical handmade candies in animal shapes Classic Japanese toys and tops The vibe is playful, chaotic and sweet. Kids will love it. So will grown-ups who remember when candy came in paper bags—not plastic. Kawagoe's nickname, 'Koedo' or 'Little Edo,' isn't just clever branding—it reflects the city's historic role as a commercial outpost that helped support the Tokugawa shogunate during the Edo Period. Because of its strategic importance and proximity to Edo (now Tokyo), Kawagoe prospered as a merchant town and was known for its fire-resistant kura storehouses and samurai residences. Learn more about the historical significance of fire safety in our article: Edo's Inked Heroes: Edo Firefighters. Much of this legacy survived—or was rebuilt—after major fires in the 1800s. Today, its layout and architecture still reflect that Edo influence, earning it the designation as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings. Kawagoe's museums are small, local and personal. Skip the giant exhibitions and enjoy these more intimate spots: Kurazukuri Museum: Housed in a former tobacco merchant's residence. Dive into Edo fire safety and merchant culture. (Note: the museum is currently going through Earthquake-related renovations and is temporarily closed.) Yamazaki Art Museum: Features a modest but meaningful collection from local artists inside a former warehouse. Osawa Residence: Built in 1792, this is the oldest remaining storehouse in town. It's free to admire from outside and worth seeking out. Each stop feels like a secret—perfect for travelers who prefer to wander slowly and soak things in. All that walking and sightseeing builds an appetite. Kawagoe has plenty of food options—from traditional sweets to stylish cafés and hearty teishoku [set meals]. Unagi Denbe – A popular spot for unagi [grilled eel], a long-standing specialty in Kawagoe. [grilled eel], a long-standing specialty in Kawagoe. Pizzeria Pino – Unexpectedly authentic Napoli-style pizza. Yamawa – A cozy café inside a local gift shop, known for its sweet potato mini-kaiseki and seasonal drinks like iced matcha in summer and red bean soup in winter. Rengetsu Café – Known for its vintage interiors and fluffy French toast. Tsubakiya Foot Spa Tearoom – Sip on tea and sweets while resting your feet in a warm outdoor footbath. Koedo Kurari – A renovated sake brewery turned food hall and souvenir shop. Try their sake tasting set and grab some handmade snacks. The Kawagoe Festival is one of the region's most beloved traditions. Held every third weekend in October, the celebration includes towering floats, music, and dancing that overtakes the whole city. Can't make it in the fall? Visit the Kawagoe Festival Museum to see the floats up close and learn about the tradition year-round. Kawagoe is surprisingly walkable, but if you want to rest your feet, the Koedo Loop Bus is convenient. It runs every 30 minutes and links all the main stations—Kawagoe, Hon-Kawagoe, and Kawagoe-shi—with stops near all major landmarks. On foot, you'll likely stumble into cozy cafés, retro kissaten, and quiet backstreets that offer their own charm. Stop for a coffee, browse a tiny antique shop, or just sit and take it all in. For more day trip ideas from Tokyo, check out our other guides: Tokyo Neighborhood Guide: A Day Trip to Okutama Enoshima Day Trip: Caves, Shrines, Sea Views and a Taste of Mythology
National Geographic
09-05-2025
- General
- National Geographic
Whatever happened to the samurai?
The samurai were a preeminent class defending Japan for centuries. But as the Tokugawa shogunate ushered in an era of stability, the need for them faded, forcing these warriors to find a new way of life. Brother-in-arms This 19th-century illustration depicts the legendary samurai Honda Tadakatsu on horseback after his victory in the Battle of Mount Komaki in 1584. Tadakatsu was one of Tokugawa Ieyasu's main collaborators in his fight for the shogunate. The samurai, Japan's celebrated lineage of warriors, emerged in the Heian period (794-1185), when the rise of their status enabled them to mingle with the refined nobility living in the then-capital of Heian-kyō (Kyoto). Samurai fought in the Ōnin War and during the period of unrest that followed. From then on, the bushi, as the samurai were also called, made their mark on Japanese history with their exceptional fighting prowess, becoming emblematic of Japanese culture. The high point of samurai history is often associated with the Tokugawa shogunate, also known as the Edo period (1603–1868), a time of peace, prosperity, isolationist policies, and cultural growth. This is the most studied era of Japanese history and the period in which novelists, filmmakers, and comic book creators tend to place their samurai characters. However, far from being the zenith of samurai culture, this period marked the beginning of the end of the samurai, or at least as the warrior caste they'd been during the previous centuries. (This cunning Japanese shogun outlasted his rivals to found his dynasty) Adapting to peace Once the Tokugawa regime was established after the conquest of Ōsaka Castle in 1615, Japan enjoyed a period of peace, disturbed only by a few peasant revolts. The last major insurrection was the Shimabara Rebellion (1637–1638), which originated in a village on the island of Kyushu in the southwest of the archipelago. It was sparked by excessive taxation and the persecution of Japanese converts to Christianity. The leader of the uprising, Amakusa Shiro, perfectly exemplified the paradoxes of this new era. He was a Christian samurai capable of bringing together the warlike bearing of the bushi with the ideals of salvation, transmitted by the Jesuit evangelists who'd arrived in Japan in the 16th century. The uprising was brutally put down by government troops, with the help of cannons provided by Dutch merchants who'd settled in the archipelago. Built in the 16th century, this fortress was the main stronghold of the Toyotomi clan, which maintained its resistance against the armies of Tokugawa Ieyasu. The capture of the castle in 1615 led to the unification of Japan under the Tokugawa shogunate With the revolt crushed, Iemitsu, the third Tokugawa shogun, decided to slam shut the gates of the country to all foreign influence and impose a self-isolating, draconian policy of control, the Sakoku. Iemitsu's measures guaranteed more than two centuries without war in Japan. The downside was that the samurai were rendered obsolete. Tens, even hundreds of thousands, of samurai whose forebears had been waging war for centuries, suddenly had to find new ways to survive outside the army. An 18th-century guard from the hilt of a Japanese katana sword. Even in this new context, there were samurai who continued to demonstrate their swordsmanship in duels and exhibitions. The most famous of these was undoubtedly Miyamoto Musashi (1584–1645). Scholars are divided over whether or not he, as a teenager, participated in the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, one of the last major conflicts before the Tokugawa shogunate. In any case, Miyamoto was left without a lord to serve and devoted himself to developing his own technique of combat with two swords: the wakizashi (short sword) and the katana (long sword). He showed off his skill in nearly 70 duels, all of them ending in victory for him and many with the death of his opponent. Before he died Miyamoto wrote a martial arts treatise that is well-known today: Gorin No Sho (The Book of Five Rings). (These 3 samurai women were some of history's most legendary warriors) Swordsmen In the mid-17th century, duels were banned and the use of swords was allowed only in self-defense. Faced with this restriction, the samurai resorted to provocations and insults so that their opponents would attack first. A samurai could then be justified in defending himself. Many samurai perfected the technique of iaijutsu, unsheathing their katanas at lightning speed before the opponent was able to land a blow. Iaijutsu derived from the martial art kenjutsu but soon became more popular. The samurai created a large number of dojos (martial arts schools) in which an aesthetic style of combat developed. These 19th-century illustrations show rōnin (masterless, wandering samurai) armed with a spear, or yari, and a daisho (pair of short and long swords). Scala, Florence (Bottom) (Right) The dramatic change in the status of the samurai was reflected in the emergence of the rōnin; this was the name given to samurai who were left without a master. The Japanese word rōnin means 'men of the waves' and evokes an aimless wandering and a sense of being untethered, like floating leaves on the water. A romantic idea of the Japanese warrior par excellence soon grew around the figure of the rōnin; they were seen as mavericks who could perform all kinds of feats. This ideal was best embodied in the figure of Miyamoto Musashi. However, Miyamoto was an exception. In reality most rōnin tended to be sword-wielding vagabonds, their need to survive forcing them to accept unglamorous jobs such as bodyguards, enforcers, or simply laborers. A daimyo (feudal lord or land-holding master) accompanied by his warriors is about to set off for Edo (modern-day Tokyo) in a norimono (palanquin). The photograph was taken around 1867, just before the Meiji Restoration, which would end the feudal Tokugawa shogunate and force a westernization of Japanese society. Musée Guimet/RMN-Grand Palais Edo thrives Meanwhile, in the city of Edo (today's Tokyo) everything seemed to be flourishing. Businesses and services grew year over year, creating a rich and populous city that impressed the few foreign visitors who came to Japan. Among these was the German physician and naturalist Engelbert Kaempfer, who claimed in the late 17th century that Edo was 'the center of the world.' The city's prosperity was largely because of a law that required feudal lords to live in Edo for six months of the year, maintaining their entire court of samurai and other servants there. (The real history of Yasuke, Japan's first Black samurai) The mood of Edo at night is captured in this 19th-century painting. Many rōnin also flocked to Edo. Some of them founded organized gangs that operated on the margins, practicing extortion and running prostitution rings. Over decades, these groups adopted increasingly complex codes and hierarchies, based on a distorted vision of Bushido, the samurai code. This gave rise to what would later become known as the yakuza, the Japanese mafia, made up of families comparable to samurai clans. The weapons, tattoos, and clothing of its members made the yakuza immediately recognizable and instilled fear among the common people. This was analogous to the way the bushi had identified themselves by carrying the daisho (traditional pair of swords comprising a long-bladed katana and short-bladed wakizashi) and displaying their family crest (kamon). Yakuza members would amputate sections of their own fingers (in an imitation of hara-kiri, suicide by disembowelment) as an honorable punishment if they ever made a mistake. A yakuza, the term for gangster, is depicted in this 19th-century illustration with his body covered in tattoos. Precarious economic situation The samurai who did manage to remain in the service of a daimyo, or feudal lord, had to accompany him during the annual season he was obliged to spend in the capital. There, they received a minimal stipend in exchange for sporadic administrative or surveillance work on the master's estate. Since the code of their class prohibited them from making investments or engaging in any commercial activity, the economic situation of these samurai was often precarious. It wasn't uncommon for them to spend the day drinking in taverns and hiring prostitutes in Yoshiwara, Edo's pleasure district. They often ended up in debt to members of the city's emerging merchant bourgeoisie. Many samurai of ancient lineage even sold their katanas to pay for the mizuage (deflowering) of a maiko (apprentice geisha), a ceremony that was in fashion at the time. But not all samurai fell into this kind of debauchery. A samurai (far right) walks through the pleasure quarter of Edo with a maiko (apprentice geisha) on his arm, in this 19th-century woodcut by Hishikawa Moronobu. There were also those who became notable personalities in the world of the arts. A case in point is that of Matsuo Bashō (1644-1694), one of the greatest haiku poets in Japanese history. He was the son of Matsuo Yozaemon, who had belonged to an old samurai family. As a young man Bashō began to serve the firstborn of the Todo clan, but his literary talent enabled him to distance himself from the military field. In the realm of painting, Watanabe Kazan (1793-1841), whose family was loyal to the daimyo Tahara, combined the traditional Japanese painting style ukiyo-e with European-style realism and shading (namban). Almost equally subversive in technique was the artist Kawanabe Kyōsai (1831-1889), considered one of the fathers of manga. Wandering poet Matsuo Bashō converses with two roadside tea drinkers in this 19th-century print in ukiyo-e style, which depicts subjects from everyday life. The family of Matsuo Bashō, the most famous poet of the Edo era, were samurai. But he had a simple peasant lifestyle growing up in the domain of the Todo clan, owners of Iga castle, between the ancient capitals of Nara and Kyoto. At an early age, Matsuo began serving the master of the castle, which gave him the opportunity to take up poetry. After the death of his master, Bashō moved to Edo, where he made a name for himself as a poet, working particularly in the genre of the haikai, which, under his influence, evolved into haiku. This poetic form comprises three lines, the first and last lines having five syllables and the middle line seven syllables. Through this precise format, Bashō sought to capture moments of nature. The haiku, then known as a haikai, had been seen as a popular amusement, but Bashō instilled in it a meditative power: an old pond a frog jumps into the sound of water Matsuo left Edo to settle in a cottage in the countryside. During those years, he also made various trips around Japan, which inspired many of his most celebrated haiku. Officials and bureaucrats Some samurai rose to positions of power in the courts of the Tokugawa shoguns—not as warriors, but as ministers and bureaucrats. This was the case of Kira Yoshinaka (1641-1703), who became a kōke, a master of ceremonies managing high-level events. Daimyo Asano Naganori assaulted Kira during a disagreement and was then forced to die by seppuku, also known as hara-kiri, as punishment. This led to the infamous vendetta waged by the 47 samurai. After Asano's suicide, the samurai who'd been in his service converted into rōnin, then waited more than a year for the best moment to assassinate Kira and avenge their master. They were then condemned to commit hara-kiri. Paradoxical as it may seem, the triumph of the most important samurai in the history of Japan, shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, marked the beginning of the decline of his own caste. The bushi code lost much of the meaning it had in earlier times, while an idealized image of the samurai emerged describing a phenomenon that had never existed. In the 19th century, as Japan felt its integrity threatened by the English, Russians, and Americans, there was an attempt to shake off the old-fashioned, purist ideology of the warrior and instead mix it with one of nationalism in the service of the emperor. Today something of the samurai essence remains in Japan, whether in the militaristic tradition, in the activity of the yakuza, or in deeply rooted values such as discipline and artistic sensibility. I resolved to see the moon over the mountains of Kashima Shrine this autumn. I was accompanied by two men, a masterless samurai and an itinerant monk. The monk was dressed in robes as black as a crow... Off he strutted, thumping his staff, alone in the universe... I, however, am neither a monk nor a man of the world; I could be called a bat—in between a bird and mouse! — Matsuo Bashō, Kashima Journal Nostalgia for the old ways of the samurai An 1864 portrait of a samurai by Felice Beato The Hagakure is an 18th- century compilation of the reflections of Yamamoto Tsunetomo, a high-ranking samurai official. The collection, later translated into English, is a kind of handbook and ethical code of the samurai at a time when its warrior values were no longer seen as relevant. Having pursued a career as a scholar, a warrior, and a librarian, Yamamoto became a Buddhist priest and retired to the woods where he noted the thoughts that were later compiled into his masterpiece. Evocative of his woodland surroundings, Hagakure is translated either as 'in the shade of the leaves' or 'fallen leaves.' It recalls with nostalgia a time when samurai were true warriors willing to die at any moment. He writes extensively on how to approach death, show obedience to one's master, and be serene in adversity. A few examples of the many aphorisms are included in the following translation of Hagakure by William Scott Wilson. The original work also criticizes young samurai for abandoning the old ways. The emphasis on devotion and bravery follow the ideals of the old bushi—a far cry from modern samurai, whose role lacked the same need for discipline. OBEY THE MASTERIf one were to say in a word what the condition of being a samurai is, its basis lies first in seriously devoting one's body and soul to his master. And if one is asked what to do beyond this, it would be to fit oneself inwardly with wisdom, humanity, and courage... Intelligence is nothing more than discussing things with others. Limitless wisdom comes from this. Humanity is something done for the sake of others, simply comparing oneself with them and putting them in the fore. Courage is gritting one's teeth. BE PREPARED TO DIE This is the essence of the Way of the Samurai: you must die anew every morning and every night. If you continually preserve the state of death in everyday life, you will understand the essence of Bushido, and you will gain freedom in the Way. Your whole life will be without blame, and you will succeed in your calling. EMBRACE ADVERSITY When meeting calamities or difficult situations, it is not enough to simply say that one is not at all flustered. When meeting difficult situations, one should dash forward bravely and with joy. It is the crossing of a single barrier and is like the saying, 'The more the water, the higher the boat.' THE YOUTH OF TODAY During the last 30 years customs have changed; now when young samurai get together, if there is not just talk about money matters, loss and gain, secrets, clothing styles, or matters of sex, there is no reason to gather together at all. Customs are going to pieces. —Extracts from Hagakure: The Book of the Samurai, translated by William Scott Wilson A 19th century woodcut of a samurai This story appeared in the May/June 2025 issue of National Geographic History magazine.
Japan Forward
28-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Japan Forward
Shogun-Themed Cafe Opens in Tokyo's Omotesando
このページを 日本語 で読む "SHOGUN cafe & experience" opened on April 22, just a two-minute walk from Omotesando Station. This experiential cafe is inspired by the shoguns of the Tokugawa family, who ruled Japan for 15 generations during the Edo period. Visitors can enjoy regional dishes once served to the Tokugawa clan. They can also experience traditional Japanese arts such as iaido (swordsmanship), Noh theater, calligraphy, and the tea ceremony. The cafe mainly serves Japanese sweets like mochi and manju (steamed bun). It also features a rotating menu of local specialties as part of its "Tribute Items Project." This initiative supports regional revitalization by showcasing ingredients and dishes from across Japan. The first featured region is Hamamatsu City, where Tokugawa Ieyasu spent his youth. Menu highlights include local matcha and a fragrant mochi filled with citrus marmalade. Upstairs, guests can participate in interactive cultural experiences set in a modernized space. For ¥16,500 JPY (around $115 USD), visitors can choose from two curated courses (about 90 minutes): Martial & Performing Arts Set: includes an iaido demonstration, a Noh dance performance, and traditional costume dressing. Cultural Arts Set: features calligraphy, a tea ceremony, and katazome (stencil dyeing). The first floor features a cafe and shop area that offers a variety of regional specialties. (©Sankei by Ikue Mio) The cafe is operated by the Japan Incubation Center (JIQ), a general incorporated association based in Chiyoda, Tokyo. Highlighting the Tokugawa shogunate's 260-year reign as a "symbol of peace," JIQ aims to make the cafe a hub for sharing regional and cultural heritage. Iehiro Tokugawa, the 19th head of the main House of Tokugawa descending from Tokugawa Ieyasu, serves as JIQ's Executive Fellow. Japan's samurai era has seen renewed global interest, thanks to the hit TV series SHOGUN starring Hiroyuki Sanada, which recently won four Golden Globe awards, including Best Drama. JIQ representative Satoru Kaiho expressed interest in a potential collaboration. While there is "no official connection" to the show, he added, "We'd love to work together." Author: Katsutoshi Takagi, The Sankei Shimbun このページを 日本語 で読む
