Latest news with #ToluCoker
The Guardian
15-05-2025
- Entertainment
- The Guardian
Superfine: Black designers worthy of a place in the Met
Founded by the Nigerian designer Faith Oluwajimi, Bloke has been producing clothes that mix colour and texture with laid-back shapes since 2015 and is now part of the London fashion week schedule. Described as 'artisanal' on its website, Bloke's aesthetic is guaranteed to bring something special to anyone's style. Photograph: Bloke British-Nigerian designer Iniye Tokyo James launched his brand in 2015. Although he didn't train in fashion – he studied maths – it has become a favourite of the industry. The brand has been nominated for awards (the LVMH prize in 2021) and included stockists such as Dover Street Market over the years. That's thanks to fashion-forward sharp tailoring with a side of playfulness, as seen here for AW24. Photograph: Tokyo James Founded in 2021, Tolu Coker's eponymous label mixes fun, colourful design with sustainable principles, often using upcycled fabrics. The brand describes itself as 'rooted in three core pillars: community, craftsmanship and culture'. This came together at the AW25 show, which saw Coker's designs with the backdrop of her 'studio', recreated inside the London fashion week venue 180 The Strand. Photograph: Henry Nicholls/AFP/Getty Images Now a decade old, the Nicholas Daley brand is about fashion that intertwines with culture. Daley regularly looks to his Scottish and Jamaican heritage for his collections. AW25, for example, included T-shirts with the Reggae Klub logo, a roots reggae night run by his parents in Edinburgh in the 1980s, and an official Nicholas Daley tartan, with red, gold and green thread. His designs feature in the Superfine exhibition at the Met in New York and he dressed Leon Bridges for the Met Gala. Photograph: Nicholas Daley Founded in Nigeria in 2016, Olumide Oyewunmi's Midetush has been making its way to the UK recently, showing at Leicester fashion week in March. The collection, called Afrocentrism, used striped Aso-Oke fabric, sourced from vendors in Nigeria. Reworked into shirts, jackets and shorts, with a preppy theme, the designs have a fresh appeal. Photograph: Midetush As a choreographer and fashion designer, Saul Nash is an impressive individual. His brand, which dates from 2018, has a signature sports-meets-tailoring aesthetic. Recently he collaborated with Lululemon, and his pieces feature in Superfine. Photograph: Estrop/Getty Images Olivia Ozi-Oiza Chance launched Oiza in 2022 and it has become known for its delicate but impactful looks, with lace often central to the designs. Genderless in an imaginative way, SS25 (Chance creates one collection a year) includes lace vests, dresses in bubblegum pink and combat pants embroidered with flowers. With its romantic vibe, anyone with a wedding in their summer diary could take inspiration from Oiza. Photograph: Silvia Draz/Oiza Pronounced 'service', SRVC mixes workwear with a sexier aesthetic. Led by Ricky Wesley Harriott, who co-founded it in 2021, the brand is now at London fashion week and it's a favourite of Charli xcx and Alex Consani, among others. The AW25 show at the top of the BT Tower cemented SRVC's position as a label to know – and to know how to pronounce. Photograph: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images Jawara Alleyne launched his brand in 2020 but when Rihanna described him as 'my new favourite designer' last year, it confirmed he was one to watch. With jersey fabrics held together by safety pins, Alleyne has a signature aesthetic, one explored in three solo shows at London fashion week, and featured in Superfine. Photograph: Ik Aldama/Jawara Alleyne Jamaican designer Francesca Lake is nominally at the start of her career – she graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2021 – but she has already worked with Rihanna and Erykah Badu, who she dressed for the Met Gala in 2024. Lake, who grew up between Kingston in Jamaica and London, and works across art and design, told Vogue her next step would be to 'manifest an exhibition space' in the two capitals. Her AW25 collection is surely going to help her get there. Photograph: Francesca Lake Having graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2023, Yaku Stapleton won the prestigious L'Oréal Professionnel Creative award, which is given to the brightest talents. He has made good on the potential. With an aesthetic that could be described as video game meets utility, his presentation at London fashion week in February was immersive, with guests – including Culture Secretary Lisa Nandy – wandering through 'worlds' he created. Photograph: FKY/Yaku The first fashion designer to make a football kit worn by players for Premier League matches (Arsenal's away kit for 24/25), Labrum designer Foday Dumbuya is a star of London fashion. Labrum's AW25 show cemented that status even further. Taking place at Abbey Road studios, it featured sets from musicians including Ghetts, Ezra Collective and Akala, as pictured here, with Dumbuya. His designs are featured in Superfine. Photograph: Sama Kai/Labrum Founded by Deborah Latouche in 2020, Sabirah is a modest brand that describes itself as 'demi-couture', and has an opulent, luxury-first aesthetic. Latouche also works as a stylist with clients including Naomie Harris and Sophie Turner. This red carpet training is there to see in Sabirah. Photograph: Olu Ogunshakin This London-based designer only graduated from Central Saint Martins last year, but his designs have already been worn by the actors Emma Corrin and Lashana Lynch. Wraparound skirts were inspired by his grandmother's Ghanian heritage while laser-etched leather miniskirts and crop tops are a nod to his sister's clubbing style. In May, he was named a recipient of the British Fashion Council's 2025/26 NewGen scheme. The initiative aims to help turn emerging talent into global brands. One to watch. Composite: Joshua Ewusie
IOL News
05-05-2025
- Entertainment
- IOL News
Tyla's fashion warm-up: stealing the spotlight before the Met Gala
Tyla styled in a dress by British Nigerian designer, Tolu Coker. Image: X/@Tyla_seethal21 Amidst the buzz surrounding the Met Gala, the streets of New York have predictably become a vibrant hub of style. From A-listers to fashion darlings, the who's who of global celebrity is out in full force, dropping lewks as if it's Fashion Week. But here in Mzansi, all eyes are on one woman: Tyla. And if her previous pre-Met outfits are anything to go by, she's coming for necks again this year. The Met Gala is the fashion Olympics, where celebrities are expected to bring the drama, artistry, and a little bit of madness to the steps of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Hosted annually by "Vogue" editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, the event raises funds for the Costume Institute while serving as the ultimate visual feast. Themes are given. Expectations are high. And anyone who doesn't bring it? Well, the internet never forgets. This past weekend, Tyla stepped out styled by Law Roach - the same man who helped establish Zendaya's fashion icon status. Known for his "image architect" approach, Roach loves playing with nostalgia, reinvention and a touch of drama. Video Player is loading. Play Video Play Unmute Current Time 0:00 / Duration -:- Loaded : 0% Stream Type LIVE Seek to live, currently behind live LIVE Remaining Time - 0:00 This is a modal window. Beginning of dialog window. Escape will cancel and close the window. Text Color White Black Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta Cyan Transparency Opaque Semi-Transparent Background Color Black White Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta Cyan Transparency Opaque Semi-Transparent Transparent Window Color Black White Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta Cyan Transparency Transparent Semi-Transparent Opaque Font Size 50% 75% 100% 125% 150% 175% 200% 300% 400% Text Edge Style None Raised Depressed Uniform Dropshadow Font Family Proportional Sans-Serif Monospace Sans-Serif Proportional Serif Monospace Serif Casual Script Small Caps Reset restore all settings to the default values Done Close Modal Dialog End of dialog window. Advertisement Video Player is loading. Play Video Play Unmute Current Time 0:00 / Duration -:- Loaded : 0% Stream Type LIVE Seek to live, currently behind live LIVE Remaining Time - 0:00 This is a modal window. Beginning of dialog window. Escape will cancel and close the window. Text Color White Black Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta Cyan Transparency Opaque Semi-Transparent Background Color Black White Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta Cyan Transparency Opaque Semi-Transparent Transparent Window Color Black White Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta Cyan Transparency Transparent Semi-Transparent Opaque Font Size 50% 75% 100% 125% 150% 175% 200% 300% 400% Text Edge Style None Raised Depressed Uniform Dropshadow Font Family Proportional Sans-Serif Monospace Sans-Serif Proportional Serif Monospace Serif Casual Script Small Caps Reset restore all settings to the default values Done Close Modal Dialog End of dialog window. Next Stay Close ✕ So naturally, he pulled out a stunner for Tyla, which was a vintage Roberto Cavalli mini dress straight from the Italian label's autumn/winter 2004 collection. The brocade and lace combination, ruffled bubble hem, and moody baroque detailing screamed early 2000s opulence. Think sultry elegance with a side of sass. Trust her to make a two-decade-old dress feel completely 2025. Later that evening, the Gen Z fashion queen took it up another notch in a second Cavalli number: a satiny silver suit with a fierce crocodile-print effect. Tyla (@Tyllaaaaaaa) styled by Law Roach in Roberto Cavalli for Pre-#MetGala events. 🔥 📸 Getty — Spur Play Africa (@spurplayafrica) May 4, 2025 With trousers so low-rise they practically grazed her hips, it was giving full Y2K fantasy, well, minus the cringe. Laced details at the waist sealed the deal, adding a rugged femininity that only someone like Tyla could pull off. And just when you thought she might take a breather - darling, never. The pièce de résistance? The standout look of the weekend was a burnt orange striped silk ensemble by British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker. Coker, known for her Afro-diasporic storytelling through fashion, is making waves with her unapologetically bold, cultural aesthetic. Her pieces often celebrate Black identity with rich textures, layered fabrics and political undertones. Celebs like Rihanna, Ariana Grande, Demi Lovato, Tems, Doechii, Maya Jama and Tiwa Savage have all rocked her pieces, proving that Coker's aesthetic is global. From the Grammys to music videos, her work has been seen across red carpets and creative stages.
Express Tribune
16-03-2025
- Entertainment
- Express Tribune
Why jackets and ties will always make heads turn
Suiting up is not just for the office anymore. While the masculine jacket-and-tie statement has defined formal sophistication for hundreds of years now, it is taking on a different identity on feminine bodies. Now, clothing articles like blazers and bowties have made space for themselves on the runway, like with Tolu Coker's London Fashion Week collection, which featured leather blazers and satin ties over tailored shirts. If Sabrina Carpenter's Dolce & Gabbana showgirl look at the Grammys is any indication, the trend has been making waves not just on the ramp but also on the red carpet and the stage. While Sabrina's look channelled The Greatest Showman, Cynthia Erivo's pinstripe suit at the 56th NAACP Image Awards served timeless elegance. Even Chappell Roan succumbed to the hype in the teaser photos for The Giver. Over at the 30th Annual Critics Choice Awards, Nicole Kidman brought a business-casual touch with her striped collared shirt, black dotted tie, and a coat whose sleeves bunched up over her elbow. Meanwhile, Ayo Edebiri shined in her gray ensemble at the Golden Globes 2025. Lax fashion From Thom Browne's patchwork take on the traditional attire to Billie Eilish's signature merchandise, the jacket-and-tie look has been a long-standing fashion staple with surprising variety, especially on women who are keen on bringing a glamorous yet comfortable flair to it. Even content creator and architect Yasmine Tangou understands the hype. Yasmine, who prefers the sturdy fitting of men's suits over curvy dresses, told the BBC, "I like the movement in a men's garment and the wider, boxier silhouette." The outfits she flaunts on her TikTok are often paired with ties and trench coats. "From a social point of view, I really like that wearing a tie and jacket is bold," she said. "People don't expect it on a woman." However, the influencer has certain preferences even when it comes to simply suiting up. "I thought the office-siren look was really cool, but it was about showing off the body, whereas this look is about the garment," she said. If you compare a tight-fitted suit to the Bottega Veneta ensemble that Vicky Krieps wore to the film Hot Milk's Berlinale premiere, you'll know what Yasmine is talking about. Tucking in a striped cotton shirt, Vicky donned a dark jacquard tie and oversized pants and coats that might look distracting at first glance but have an ease to them that fashion doesn't always afford. Capsule editor Holly Beddingfield, who falls in the older Gen Z bracket, attributed the rise in creatively sporting the jacket-and-tie look to the shift back to onsite working, which the current working generation is only now getting acquainted to. "We haven't worked in formal environments before, and since lots of offices are ending working from home, we're thinking, 'why not have fun with dressing for work?'" she told the BBC. "I wear lots of oversized-men's items, but that can stray into the territory of looking lazy and like I don't care. But a tie can take a boyish outfit, and make it look polished, in the same way having my nails done and wearing jewellery does too." For others, the popularity of the fashion statement has been liberating as it has helped them broaden their sense of self-expression. Recalling her teenage years, British designer Bella Freud said, "I put on this boy's shirt, and I stared at myself in the mirror. Suddenly I felt agile and powerful. It was a real moment for me."
Yahoo
26-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Why Tolu Coker is London's Fastest Rising Star
On the Sunday night of London Fashion Week, the vast concrete space at 180 Strand was transformed into an intimate corner of artistry. Warm lighting bathed the venue, red carpets were rolled out, smooth jazz playing in the background; the room was abuzz with chatter as Tolu Coker's team members stood at every corner with a smile (each wearing a crisp white shirt and tie – now a signature of the Tolu Coker uniform), ushering the steady flow of people inside. In the centre of the space, a makeshift recreation of the brand's studio was set up, complete with cutting tables, sewing machines, research mood boards and hung toiles in situ, inviting everyone behind the scenes. FIND OUT MORE ON ELLE COLLECTIVE 'So many people across the world were talking about the last show,' the West London-born, British-Nigerian designer tells me when we sit down after the performance. 'They started deconstructing the meaning behind it on social media. They were interested in the why, so this time I wanted to show them the why.' Her AW25 collection, titled 'Ori – Upon Reflection' (Ori means 'head' in Yoruba), celebrates spirituality, craftsmanship and what she calls 'the sacred act of making'. These are the elements that have been a driving force for Coker since she launched her brand back in 2021, after stints working at JW Anderson, Celine and Maison Margiela. Her collections are an intimate exploration of heritage and memory, but also celebrate ideas of shared narrative, togetherness and belonging — a point of view that resonates even more during a time when societies everywhere feel so fractured. Coker, through rich lacquered burgundies, pops of cherry red and vibrant Eighties-inspired prints, sparks joy and intimacy with the clothes she makes. It's a trope that's garnered her an A-list fanbase (Rihanna and Ariana Grande are among those who love wearing the brand) and secured her an LVMH Prize semi-finalist spot this year. For Coker, storytelling is very much at the heart of what she does. 'I want people to be able to feel it, to see up close. We're not trying to sell a story. We're telling stories,' she says. By using fashion as a tool to advocate for social change, she hopes to widen inclusivity and participation in an industry that is still largely run by white men. This season, Coker was one of the few Black women on schedule during London Fashion Week. 'I want to see faces that look like my mother's, brother's, friends' and neighbours' represented and preserved,' she says. Much of Coker's approach to design is about exploring how dress codes evolve across generations and geographies, speaking to the broader Black diaspora but from the perspective of a Londoner. The AW25 collection, for example, pays homage to the flowing white garments of Aladura churches from Lagos to London, the ceremonial dress worn across Brazil and Cuba, and the ritual attire of Black spiritual traditions in Louisiana and Haiti. And yet, classic European tailoring is woven throughout, in a merging of the ceremonial and the everyday, the sacred and the structured. This duality is further expressed in fabric choices – deadstock wools and gabardines, tartans, poplins and crisp collars nod to quintessentially British sartorial codes, drawing upon the designer's London roots. In a time when the luxury fashion industry is experiencing a slowdown, Coker is unphased. 'It's all very analytical and about numbers and data; it's quantitative. What I'm trying to do is qualitative.' Her ethos has always prioritised emotion over metrics, storytelling over trends and longevity over hype. 'I want to create clothes that hold a feeling and tangiblity, that is beyond the clothes themselves. I want people to remember a moment in space and time,' says Coker. Her close-knit community extends beyond the team that brings her ideas to life. In December, rapper Doechii took to the stage wearing a pinafore dress, puff-sleeved shirt and rainbow-stripe tie from Tolu's AW24 collection at Grammy Museum L.A. Live. She also counts Thandiwe Newton and India Amarteifio among her patrons. For Coker, fashion is about stressing the value of emotional connection, aiming to create a heritage brand that she hopes will outlive her. 'I feel like I'm only just warming,' she says, 'I've only scratched the surface of what I hope to achieve.' As she steps onto the global stage, preparing for the LVMH Prize semi-finals, her vision is clear: to build something meaningful and something that will endure. As this season's London Fashion Week event ended, the lights flickered on and the pack down began, Coker's team were electric, exchanging warm embraces and wide grins. She introduced me to her production manager, set designer, pattern cutter, the jazz band and her close collaborator, Grammy award-winning music producer Gaetan Judd. The sense of togetherness was palpable. This was a community in the truest sense of the word. 'I wanted to go deeper. Not just wide, not just big and not just loud,' says Coker, 'I want people to really understand why we do what we do.' ELLE Collective is a new community of fashion, beauty and culture lovers. For access to exclusive content, events, inspiring advice from our Editors and industry experts, as well the opportunity to meet designers, thought-leaders and stylists, become a member today Might Also Like Pyjamas You Can Wear All Day 10 Hand Soaps To Make Your Bathroom Feel Like A Fancy Hotel 8 Of The Best Natural Deodorants
