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Chicago Tribune
a day ago
- Entertainment
- Chicago Tribune
Grilling up ‘octo' with Monteverde's Bailey Sullivan
Within minutes of watching her cook, Bailey Sullivan's kitchen jargon sticks in the brain. A skewer of octopus, plated with sauces, vegetables and garnishes, simply becomes 'octo.' Soon, it's sweet in your head. As in, 'can we do octo rollout?' or 'we need a second octo.' At least, that's what happened to me and likely to the audience of Bravo's 'Top Chef' Season 22. About a month after her top-three finish on the show, Sullivan, free of cameras and in her comfort zone, was back to working as executive chef at Monteverde Restaurant & Pastificio. For the past few months, diners at the West Loop restaurant have received their bill with a glowing portrait of Sullivan, celebrating her appearance on the show. Sullivan's personal style is memorable — ever-colorful hair, large glasses and rotating patterned bandanas. It seems to tell you everything about her on first look: quirky and easily creative. But that belies a scholarly understanding of Italian cooking history, techniques and terminology, and a serious competitor. 'Competition is about building a sense of community,' said Sullivan. In her view, instead of aiming for domination, it's key to challenge yourself and others in the hopes of reaching higher peaks as a team. On the first day of July, Sullivan bantered with the staff on her way to the kitchen. A bartender called her promotion to executive chef the 'best thing that ever happened' at the restaurant. Line cooks responded to her lessons or demos with a 'sheesh' or 'hell yeah, brother.' She told stories about dishwashers who worked up to the kitchen, the women who have loyally manned the pasta station for years and the diverse personalities that make up the restaurant. 'Monteverde is Bailey. And Bailey is Monteverde,' said Sarah Grueneberg, head chef and co-owner. 'Just as much as I am Monteverde.' The octo spiedino was new to most that day, but it was served when the restaurant first opened in 2015, inspired by a trip to Spain. On 'Top Chef,' Sullivan and Houston chef Tristen Epps won Episode 6's elimination challenge with a dish that echoed the Monteverde classic: grilled octo with Kalamata caramel glaze and charred green olive honey relish. '(Initially,) when I left Monteverde to go to 'Top Chef' I felt very confident and comfortable,' said Sullivan, who had run some practice quickfires with Grueneberg, a 'Top Chef' alumnus. But Sullivan's time on the series started rocky, with an elimination in the second episode for a maple tart. It was her debut on national TV and her first time on camera. She hadn't even done local TV — and here she was vying for attention with 15 other contestants. 'It was hard going from something very community-based versus being just someone in the crowd,' she said. Her journey of rediscovering her confidence in front of the cameras became a major part of her arc. Rather than cooking her authentic self, she tried to anticipate others' expectations. But she dug in and returned to the competition by winning 'Last Chance Kitchen.' Many of her competitors weren't surprised; frequently, fellow 'Top Chef' contestants and Chicago chefs Zubair Mohajir and Cèsar Murillo refer to her as a beast in the kitchen. She made it to the finale in Milan, Italy, where she cooked a four-course progressive meal. Though Sullivan didn't win the show, judge Gail Simmons told me at the James Beard Awards in June that it was one of the best finale meals she's ever had. Of course, Sullivan served octo at the finale. This time, it was pulpo e mozz, a combination that guest judge Richard Blais called 'dumb and brilliant.' Sullivan has no hard feelings about being a runner-up and is proud of her fellow contestants; frequently, she would be the first to hug them and tell them she loved them after a win or a loss. 'With the show, as proud as I was of all of her cooking, I was just as proud of the way she carried herself and the way she treated other people,' said her father, Mike Sullivan. Bailey Sullivan fell in love with the industry growing up in Goldyburgers, the longtime Forest Park neighborhood staple her father has run since he bought it in 1981. She remembers fondly listening to stories of the Irish immigrants who worked at the restaurant and the patio with ivy. 'I would run around and have such a great time,' she said. 'So I had this positive image of what restaurants were in my brain.' Sullivan's father recalls his daughter and wife watching 'Top Chef' during the early years, engrossed in the competition and craft. He didn't encourage her to join the industry; but from a young age, she had the bug — she joined him on supply runs to Fulton Market, made wing sauce for Super Bowl parties and signed up for cooking classes. His daughter speaks with admiration of his work ethic. She said he still opens and closes down the restaurant every day. While Goldyburgers may have inculcated that love for restaurants in Sullivan, her father laughs when comparing Goldyburgers to Monteverde. 'This place is completely different than Monteverde,' said Mike Sullivan, beaming. 'She's in a whole different realm.' He means it literally; Italian food was not a cuisine of personal culinary significance for the Sullivan family. Her entry was actually through noodles — some of her early line cook jobs included working at restaurants like Yusho and Parachute. That led her to a fateful meeting with Grueneberg when they worked together in a ramen battle. 'She was a bright shining light of excitement,' Grueneberg said. 'All of the things that I love about cooking, about being a young chef … That passion that you have naturally. That you can't force. It's a natural passion for the craft. ' Naturally, the first stop of her journey at Monteverde was the pasta station. Over time, she became a student of Italian regional and atypical cooking, learning deeply from staff, cookbooks and, of course, Grueneberg. At Monteverde's pasta station, her original home, she went through the complexities: extruding, the challenges of sourcing dried pasta and all the variety of shapes. From below the station, she pulled out portioned containers of fresh shapes like gramigna, gnocchetti and fusilloni. From above, she brought out a seriously rustic, well-loved wooden pasta-cutting tool, a 'chitarra.' It looks like a harp that could kill. 'As a mentor, when you watch someone who you've put a lot of time and nurturing into, to see them blossom and see them utilize the skills they have to make it their own, it's a really amazing part of the process,' said Grueneberg, talking about watching Sullivan win a 'Top Chef' elimination challenge with an octo skewer. 'It's just one of those things that she made it her own.' In many ways, Sullivan has been directly following the path of her mentor. Grueneberg rose up the ranks at a notable and influential Italian Chicago restaurant, the now-closed, Michelin-starred, Spiaggia. Her next step a few years after competing on 'Top Chef' was opening her own restaurant, Monteverde. Given the obvious parallels, I wondered if a restaurant was next in the works for Sullivan. While it's not set in stone, both speak of 'Bailey's restaurant' like it's an inevitability, something on their agenda. 'I think what I've realized over the last couple of years is that whatever my restaurant will be, I want it to truly evoke a feeling of who I am,' Sullivan said. 'I just want it to have that same aesthetic, that it feels lightweight and a little eccentric, but ethereal and fun.' How will Sullivan present that feeling of 'Bailey-ness'? She's confident the food will come. But the rest? Well, just like in 'Top Chef,' she'll figure it out. For now, the octo awaits. In the narrow, clean kitchen, the plancha radiated a dry heat. A row of sieves awaited pasta in aggressively boiling water. Woks sat over flaming burners. That is to say, it was really hot. But as nearly a dozen staff watched her demo the octo, the vibe was warm emotionally too. Sullivan, clad in patterned tights, clogs and a trademark vibrant bandana, gave history and technique lessons as she went through the steps. First, Sullivan explains how the octo came to be on the menu after chef Grueneberg saw a simple preparation in a Spanish coastal town; the octo must be boiled in salt water 'from whence it came.' 'It makes the most delicious, tender octopus,' Sullivan said. She shared some more superstitious traditional techniques that they don't use, like using actual ocean water or adding wine tops. Then, she demonstrated how to brush the octo with an herby marinade right before it's charred on a surprisingly small grill. 'It's important you're giving it the love it needs,' she said while letting the flame kiss the skewer on all four sides. Afterward, it's garnished with fresh summer pepper peperonata, dusted with smoky pimenton, sprinkled with toasty garlic chips, lemon juice and adorned with a few dollops of aioli. She narrated her thought process, 'maybe three or four,' as she squeezes the sauce onto the plate. Sheesh. Octo! Next, it's what she calls 'Vanna White time.' She snaked her way through the restaurant, holding up the plated demo octo, servers taking orders glancing over to give her a brief nod. It's a sign that it's time to sample. A few moments later Sullivan parked by the stairwell with the octo. The team quickly shuffled past to take a bite in a well-practiced flow. There were murmurs of approval and questions. Octo can be tough, but the spiadino had a perfectly pliable chew, surrounded by whorls of smoke and spice. Was it the love or was it the discipline of studied cooking? In Sullivan's hands, it's indistinguishable. I began to ask a question, and in it, I registered that I had been saying 'octo' without realizing it, even though it had been rattling around my head since watching 'Top Chef.' 'You've got me saying octo,' I said. Sous chef Michael Murray turned to me and said, 'You're one of us now.'
Yahoo
5 days ago
- Health
- Yahoo
Corn is part of this Mexican Canadian chef's 'roots.' Here's how she cooks the 'versatile' summer produce in both sweet and savoury meals
For restaurateur and chef Elia Herrera — who's had star turns on both the Canadian and Mexican versions of the reality TV series Top Chef — it wasn't Sunday dinner at her grandmother's if rajas poblanas wasn't cooking. 'It's very easy to make and also it is very comforting and delicious,' she tells Yahoo Canada of the dish featuring sliced poblano peppers simmered in a cheese sauce. Herrera's grandmother's version also had fresh corn and chicken folded in. 'We add the cream to simmer and absorb all these smoky flavours — and some sweetness from the corn,' she recalls of the dish. '[It's] so super delicious, and we eat it as a taco. We put it family style on the table, and then we have the tortillas already on the side ... it's so yummy. 'I always try to put it on the menu [of any restaurant I run]. It's just because my inspiration has always been my grandmother, and that's one of the dishes that brings me back to my childhood.' This article is for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Contact a qualified medical professional before engaging in any physical activity, or making any changes to your diet, medication or lifestyle. Herrera explains how 'corn is part of our basic diet" for people growing up in Mexico. She notes how the humble vegetable is, for her, a cultural staple that she's seen frequently transformed into tortillas, a sweet cake that's somewhere between cornbread and biscuits and, occasionally, even into ice cream. 'I grew up with it. It's in my roots,' Herrera says. 'And the flavour, of course, is very versatile, because it can be sweet, it can be savoury.' She adds that the vegetable can even be used to make a range of other recipes, including a version of horchata, a drink popular in Mexico that's typically made from ground rice, milk and cinnamon. Wait — is corn actually healthy and affordable? While dieters might be nervous to stack their plate with too much corn, John Hopkins Medicine shares that a medium ear of corn is a low-fat, low-calorie, naturally gluten-free food (minus, of course, any add-ons like butter). Rich in vitamins and antioxidants as well as a source of fibre and some protein, it also mentions that corn should be viewed as a carbohydrate by anyone with diabetes. However, it's certainly a far cry from being classified as unhealthy. Herrera adds that she's found that balancing corn with a healthy fat, like avocados, olive oil or fatty fish, can be helpful for those seeking a balanced plate. Serving corn with beans also makes for a balanced — and delicious — combination of nutrients. When it comes to price tags, ears of corn can often go for as little as 30 to 50 cents during peak season, depending on the grocery store. Paired with the vegetable's adaptability, it can be a huge win for anyone trying to stretch their food budget this summer (which is probably most of us?). What can I pair with corn? According to Herrera, short ribs and barbecue brisket are some options that go well with corn. But she also adds that corn's flexibility and adaptability don't stop when it comes to how the vegetable is prepared. It's also right at home next to other rich, saucy meat dishes, Mexican-inspired meals and warm-weather classics like pasta salad and burgers. Even if you're not about to pick up where Herrera's recipe list trails off, there's certainly more to the summer produce stalwart than boiling it and bathing it in butter (for what it's worth, Herrera is quick to mention that boiled-and-buttered corn is a classic in its own right). Still, read on for Herrera's guide to making the most of the season's bounty — AKA that pile of unhusked cobs rolling around inside your fridge. What's an easy way to cook corn? When you're ready to move beyond boiling husked corn in water for several minutes (adding a teaspoon of white sugar was my grandmother's secret to making them extra-succulent), Herrera suggests going for a Mexican street food vibe with esquites. It's a dish traditionally served at outdoor markets and by street vendors in plastic cups, featuring a mix of cooked corn, mayonnaise, cheese and lime juice, oftentimes topped with chili powder and cilantro. Recipe: Elia Herrera's Esquites Carefully remove corn from its cob: Try standing it upright, holding it at the tip in a shallow bowl, then slicing off vertical swaths with a sharp knife and letting individual pieces rain into the bowl. Heat a heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat. Melt roughly two tablespoons of butter in the warmed pan. Add the corn kernels and sauté until cooked through, adding a few tablespoons of water if needed. Remove from heat. In a mixing bowl, combine the cooked corn with a dollop of mayonnaise, lime juice and, if desired, a pinch of chili powder. Crumble in some hard, salty cheese (cotija is traditional, but hard feta will work in a pinch) and, if desired, a couple of tablespoons of chopped cilantro. Give it a final quick mix to combine and serve. Another riff on these flavours? Herrera suggests reaching for some Ontario corn: 'I love it, it is super sweet. I basically just grill it a little bit and then do the same thing: Spread some mayonnaise, and then put some cotija cheese — very, very finely grated — [and] some lime and chili powder.' No matter if you try that concoction or keep it minimalist with butter, this economical and delicious vegetable is ready to be your summer cooking MVP. 'Even just grilled corn with butter and salt: That's super yummy,' adds Herrera. 'Corn is amazing.'
Eater
5 days ago
- Business
- Eater
Tariffs Are Coming For The Menu
Sophina Uong's New Orleans restaurant, Mister Mao, is the kind of third culture-chaos cooking party spot where strawberry chaat shares the menu with 'Spanish octopussy,' and cocktails are served with candy cigarettes. It is a purposeful celebration of a variety of influences, which naturally requires both local and international ingredients to come to life. So when President Donald Trump announced his brash, nonsensical tariff plan — if you can even call it that — in March, Uong realized her whole menu may have to change. She began stocking up on ingredients like asafetida, black salt, and chilies from both India and Mexico, she says. But spices go stale, and some fresh ingredients are becoming more difficult to source. 'We have suggested to our bar manager switching acids, or developing a menu less citrus heavy — limes are $74 a case right now and steadily climbing,' she says. Fish sauce, too, has jumped from $2.99 to $8 a bottle. 'We have dropped avocados for now, and will just be watching like everyone else [to see] what happens.' 'What happens?' is a lingering question, as every day, Trump seems to change his mind about what tariffs are in effect and when. Here's a relatively updated list of the tariffs that may or may not have been invented by ChatGPT, but the numbers matter less than the overall intention — whether it's by 10 percent or 27 percent, Trump means to apply reciprocal tariffs widely, affecting everything from cars to fast fashion. Even the most locavore restaurants rely on ingredients and supplies from overseas, whether that's European wine, Brazilian coffee, or takeout boxes manufactured in China. And Trump's tariffs, whether they've been implemented or not, are having a profound effect on the industry. Some restaurateurs suddenly can't afford ingredients that have been the backbone of their menus, while others must switch to domestic alternatives that require complete menu revamps. As Top Chef has drilled into the collective consciousness, the mark of a good chef is the ability to adapt. Which one must do when suppliers text you and say everything is going to cost 20 percent more than it did the day before, as recently happened for chef Nick Wong of the newly opened Agnes and Sherman in Houston. Ingredients like rice flour, tofu, and spice mixes — crucial for the Asian-American diner concept — are suddenly far more expensive than when they planned out the business. Through one lens, the tariffs (or threat thereof) are having the intended effect of encouraging chefs to buy local. Wong says he's begun working with a local tofu purveyor, Banyan, which allows them to save some costs. Chef Apurva Panchal, the head chef at ROOH in Palo Alto, has also found himself leaning more into the cross-cultural California-ness of the menu. For instance, a cauliflower steak that used to use Indian red pumpkin is now made with local butternut squash. It's an 'opportunity for innovation,' he says. But locality and seasonality can only go so far, even at restaurants that aren't immediately affected by tariffs. Chef Omer Artun describes Meyhouse, also in Palo Alto, as a Mediterranean restaurant that uses lots of fresh produce and garlic and herbs for seasoning — all cheap and plentiful in the California summer. But 'as we go into the wintertime, a lot of the tomatoes and so forth come from Mexico,' or from hothouses in Canada, he says. Currently, most goods from Mexico and Canada are subject to a 25 percent tariff, various court rulings notwithstanding. The tariffs disproportionately affect restaurants that rely on foreign ingredients, which are often cuisines that American diners expect to pay less for — it's easier to eat the cost of a $25 increase in spices when you're charging $300 a meal for a menu in a European tradition, rather than a counter-service Mexican restaurant. But chefs are getting savvy with their buying. Uong has been adding spice mixtures to oil to extend their shelf lives and drying fresh chiles for future use. Wong says his team has reached out to other local restaurants about buying nitrile gloves in bulk so they can take advantage of discounts. But even if you spend all summer canning American tomatoes to avoid the 17 percent tariff on those from Mexico, there is the sticking point that some ingredients just aren't grown in the U.S., nor do they have a reasonable substitute. There is no domestic cinnamon production to tap into, no American turmeric or coffee or cardamom farm big enough to supplant international suppliers. 'I think it's going to be a reckoning,' says Wong. He's trying to keep Agnes and Sherman affordable like the diners it's modeled after, but at a certain point, diners are going to have to accept the cost of flavor, or risk their favorite places going under. 'Why is my fried rice so expensive? Food is politics,' says Wong. 'You don't get to exist in a vacuum and say you didn't want this. It's gonna affect you anyway.' Sign up for Eater's newsletter The freshest news from the food world every day Email (required) Sign Up By submitting your email, you agree to our Terms and Privacy Notice . This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Time Out
16-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Time Out
Chef Kwame Onwuachi's Miami debut is a love letter to the Caribbean
These days, it's practically a given that chefs wear multiple hats—they're also authors, TV personalities and culinary judges. In the case of James Beard Award winner Kwame Onwuachi, you can add soon-to-be Miami restaurateur to the list. The former Top Chef contestant and toque behind some of the country's most celebrated restaurants (including Tatiana, named the No. 1 restaurant in NYC by Time Out New York and ranked No. 10 in the city by The New York Times) is teaming up with the crew behind NYC's Las' Lap (partners Vincent Bryant, Bryce Sheldon, Nick Semkiw, Scott Williams and attorney L. Ryan Shaffer) to bring the West Indian concept to The Daydrift hotel in South Beach. Chef Kwame will lead the menu, paying homage to his Trinidadian roots and Miami's diverse Caribbean community with a tightly curated lineup of small plates and shareable dishes—each designed to pair effortlessly with Las' Lap 's tropical cocktails, ideally enjoyed canal-side on the patio or nestled into one of the cozy velvet banquettes. We caught up with chef Kwame during a whirlwind visit to Miami, where he gave us a sneak peek at the nearly finished dining room and shared what we can expect from his first Magic City venture. Never one to slow down, he also dished on a few upcoming projects and the one hobby he's finally making time for. Do you enjoy the construction process of a new restaurant? This is the best part. Putting it all together. It starts on paper and then it gets to where it is now. Your portfolio is incredibly diverse, spanning books, TV and everything else you're currently working on. Do you take a different approach to each project? I try to do everything with intention, even like this space here. I was talking to somebody and they were like, 'Oh, we expect you to be at a large hotel or a big restaurant.' This feels just intentional. Partnering with the Las' Lap team, the brands definitely aligned in the type of offerings. And being in a small niche place, I think, adds some texture to the culinary landscape here. How do you begin a new project—do you have any rituals or routines you follow? I normally start with a story, and that story helps me craft the menu, and that crafts the design, and it crafts the plateware and every aspect. So, it normally just starts with a story. This one is a little bit more unique because it's already something that's established and we're just partnering together. Each time it starts with a story. I think it says a lot that your first foray into Miami hospitality is Las' Lap. Were there other opportunities before this one, and why was this the one? Yes, but I didn't really explore them, honestly. [This] just felt a little more wholesome and felt like it would be impactful in a way. A place where people can come late at night that's off the beaten path, but it's still on South Beach. A place that there is some sort of exclusivity because of the sheer size of it—and there can be some true attention to detail because of that. I think it's a beautiful combination of so many different things that made this really, really attractive. And then I know the partners from New York from frequenting Las' Lap. I think it all just made sense. What elements of your personality will we see at Las' Lap? I would say my attention to detail, both on the service side and in the kitchen. And then, really consulting on everything that has to do with food and service. What aspects of your upbringing and culture are you hoping to honor through this menu? Definitely my Caribbean side. Las' Lap means the golden hour of the last hour before Carnival in Trinidad and Tobago. My grandfather is from Trinidad, so some of that culture will be represented here through the food, like escovitch crab claws. I didn't have it with crab claws, but I had it on fish. It's like a pickled situation with carrots, onions and scotch bonnet that I'm doing with crab claws. I'm also making bucatini and clams, similar to Rasta Pasta, but more in the style of linguine with clams from Italy. I'm injecting those Caribbean flavors in a really nice, refined way. Are you drawing from Miami's local culture for the menu? There's an oxtail Cuban on the menu, with jerk beef, bacon, and Swiss on brioche. I'm definitely playing into the Cuban aspects that are prevalent here. There's also a Wagyu griot, similar to the Haitian fried pork dish, that I'm doing with Wagyu short rib, some rice and peas, some pikliz and tamarind sauce. I'm really using the landscape of Miami to tell the story of the menu. I've watched several videos of you where you talk about wings… a lot. Will there be wings on the Las' Lap menu? I talk about wings a lot? Yeah, I'll have some sticky wings on the menu. They'll be smoked, double-cooked—battered and fried and then glazed in a jerk barbecue and chili honey. How does your approach to cooking differ when you're on television compared to when you're in one of your restaurants or at home? It's always a different version. There's always a different story to tell, and a different medium to tell it. My restaurant, Tatiana, is different from my patty shop, Patty Palace, different from Dōgon [in D.C.] or down to here, [Las' Lap]. I think there's definitely a through line with flavors that really showcase my culture, which is Creole, Nigerian, Jamaican and Trinidadian. But it's always telling a different story. I'm really using the landscape of Miami to tell the story of the menu. Do you feel like you give every project the same attention? I'm sure it's a bit like having kids—people say they don't have a favorite, but they usually do. Oh, yeah. I love all my children equally. Everyone gets the attention that they need. Some projects were able to fly on their own a little earlier and some need some more love. It's all about that balance, giving whatever project the time that it needs for it to be the best version of itself. That doesn't even mean walking through the dining room and shaking your head and kissing a baby. It's spending time with the staff. A lot of them come on these projects with my name attached to it. I don't want them to feel like I never see them. You have another opening on the horizon: Patty Palace at Time Out Market Union Square. Can you tell us about that? Oh man, it's going to be great. I mean, it's a truly exciting concept of Jamaican patties on cocoa bread. We have a jerk barbecue, green seasoning aioli and ginger cabbage slaw. That's really, really delicious. I am just excited to bring it there with different flavors of patties. We'll have the existing curry chicken, and we'll have the classic beef and jerk mushroom and potato [for the market.] I'm looking forward to it. What's exciting you about this opportunity? I mean, I think this one's unique. I don't think I like all [food halls], but this is Time Out—they do a good job. It's also a smaller one with only four or five spots, and it's right in the middle of Union Square. It'll add to the options that people have for quick things to eat. I think this one makes sense. Do you have plans to write another book? Yeah, I am. I actually have to hand in the manuscript [for my cookbook] in two days, so yeah, I have to do that on the plane. Finish it on the plane. It's already almost done. I just have to do a couple of final edits. You're non-stop. How do you decompress? For the past year and a half, I have been playing golf. My friend took me out to the driving range and I just fell in love with it. I bought a set of clubs the next day, joined a country club three months later, and I've been golfing ever since. I go at 6 or 7am, tee off super early, and then I have my full day. And then I'm in the restaurant business, so my service doesn't start until 5pm normally. When I travel, I play, and I travel a lot around the world, so it's pretty cool.
Los Angeles Times
14-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Los Angeles Times
After almost a decade, a Michelin-starred izakaya closes in downtown L.A.
Renowned for its elegant izakaya-style dishes and tasting menu served counterside, Shibumi earned its first Michelin star in 2019. Now, nine years since the restaurant's opening, it will close on July 19, chef-owner David Schlosser wrote in an Instagram post last week. 'We embarked on a journey fueled by an outpouring of love, passion and curiosity from an extraordinary community,' Schlosser wrote. 'We dared to be different, reviving ancient recipes and time-honored techniques that carried the weight of centuries.' When Shibumi opened in 2015, Schlosser aimed to bring both Japanese classics and upscale tasting menus, sometimes with centuries-old recipes, to downtown L.A. Now, as business dwindles for many restaurants and other establishments and citywide crises such as homelessness pervade, even award-winning restaurants like Shibumi are struggling to keep doors open. 'In the end of 2023 to 2024, things really flattened out — the staff is the same, the recipes were the same. The only thing that wasn't the same was people just weren't coming in,' Schlosser said. 'Any business owner invests in a community. And when you see that same destruction and graffiti 10 years later, it's sad.' Shibumi joins a growing crowd of recent restaurant closures in L.A., including the 117-year-old Cole's French Dip downtown, soul food bistro My 2 Cents on West Pico Boulevard and natural wine bar Melody in Virgil Village. 'Shibumi, a modest, season-dependent izakaya on a lonely block downtown, feels like a Tokyo restaurant in important ways, which is probably kind of the point,' Jonathan Gold wrote in 2016. 'Schlosser's smack of pure obsession may be precisely what downtown needs.' Shibumi is open Wednesday through Sunday from 6 to 9 p.m. 815 S. Hill St., Los Angeles, (323) 484-8915, Cabra, opened in 2022 by Girl & the Goat chef and 'Top Chef' winner Stephanie Izard, will close on July 31. The Peruvian restaurant and bar is located on the rooftop of the Hoxton hotel in downtown L.A., which is finding new leadership for its two restaurants — Cabra and Moonlark's Dinette, the latter of which will remain open during the transition. 'We're incredibly proud of what we built together at the Hoxton, Downtown L.A.,' said Kevin Boehm and Rob Katz, co-founders of Boka Restaurant Group, which operates Cabra, in a statement to The Times. 'It's been a privilege to be part of this community, and we're excited to keep doing what we love at Girl & the Goat, just around the corner.' The Peruvian-inspired restaurant, known for its array of ceviches, skewers and tropical cocktails, is open Sunday through Thursday from 5 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 5 to 11 p.m. and for Sunday brunch from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. 1060 S Broadway, Los Angeles, (213) 725-5858, Chef Michael Mina's health-minded and globally-influenced Mother Tongue, located on the rooftop of a members-only fitness club in Hollywood, closed in late June. The rooftop restaurant opened in 2022 with the aim of highlighting non-processed, whole ingredients on its menu, which offered a variety of Mediterranean-inspired dips, appetizers and mains, along with veggie-forward pastas and sides. 'It's really about how you take the best dishes and prioritize a health and wellness component from start to finish, from the products to the techniques,' Mina, chef and owner of Orla in Santa Monica and Bourbon Steak in Glendale, told The Times before Mother Tongue opened. When Verve Coffee Roasters first arrived in L.A. in 2015, the third-wave coffee shop became known for its roasted beans and a juice bar inside its modern industrial cafe on Spring Street. Over the next ten years — during which the Santa Cruz-based chain opened four more cafes in L.A., one of which contains a roastery, along with several shops in Japan, and more recently launched its own line of matcha — Verve earned a reputation as one of the city's most reliable coffee spots, adapting to customers' changing preferences with more unique teas and coffees on the menu. On June 1, Verve closed its Spring Street coffee shop, its first in Southern California, citing downtown L.A.'s 'evolving landscape' as the reason for closure in an Instagram post. 'Like many businesses in downtown L.A., we saw lasting changes in foot traffic patterns that deeply affected day-to-day operations,' a Verve spokesperson told The Times in an email. 'While we worked hard to adapt — through programming and optimizing operations — the level of consistent foot traffic simply didn't support what is needed to sustain the cafe in a high-overhead environment like downtown.' Verve Coffee Roasters will continue to operate at its other L.A. locations in Manhattan Beach, West Hollywood and the Arts District.
