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The National
5 days ago
- The National
How Skye has 'flourished' in the 30 years since the bridge opened
The Isle of Skye is the second most visited destination in Scotland after Edinburgh. This year the Skye bridge is 30 years old and is the gateway to the island for the majority of visitors. For an island with single-track roads and rural infrastructure, it's a lot to manage. Visit Scotland works hard to market other parts of Scotland yet the pull of the Cuillins is magnetic. The dramatic cliffs and peaks of Skye, the miles of coastline, the constantly changing light . . . there's nowhere quite like it. I'm far from immune. Growing up in Lochaber, the mountains of Skye were always on my horizon and, as an adult, I take every opportunity to visit, particularly out of season. Whether out hiking, visiting distilleries or eating my way around Skye, every visit I discover somewhere new and fall a little further under the island's spell. In the 30 years since the bridge opened, the hospitality industry has flourished. Today Skye's restaurants, cafés and distilleries are as much of a draw as the mountains and beauty spots. Isabella Macdonald runs Kinloch Lodge ( at the end of a single-track road on the Sleat peninsula. It's one of my favourite hotels in Scotland. Isabella remembers Skye before the bridge. 'I have so many childhood memories of queuing for ferries, or just missing the last one,' she says. 'A lot of the dislike for the project was because of the tolls. I'd liken it to the Edinburgh trams: initial grumbling but very quickly people grew to love it. Now we wouldn't be without it. It's made Skye so much more accessible. As a business owner you're not worrying about your guests missing the ferry or booking one in time. It definitely helps with attracting visitors year round too.' Dinner at Kinloch Lodge is a treat, with the menu changing daily depending on available produce, the weather and what chef Jordan Webb and his creative team dream up. When I visit that's Skye venison tacos as a snack, a beautiful seared Skye scallop in a light dashi with pak choi and peanuts, then poached Shetland cod with home-smoked lobster. (Image: UNKNOWN) The hotel still feels like the Clan Macdonald family home with portraits ranging from ancient oil paintings to recent school photos of the current youngest generation. It also offers a tapas-style lunch menu. I delight in west coast crab with foraged Alexanders on toast, and scallop sashimi, all in the idyllic garden overlooking Loch na Dal. A little further south on the Sleat peninsula is Torabhaig Distillery ( a newer rival to the island's mighty Talisker. Both make fine whisky but I prefer the intimate tour experience at Torabhaig. When the distillery opened it trained up members of the local community for all the new roles including the distillers. 'We meld into the community because we brought the community here,' tour guide manager Anne says. Having the bridge meant building this new island distillery was far easier, particularly when transporting huge wooden washbacks. The café at Torabhaig is excellent, with tasty soup and sandwiches, and whisky-infused traybake to fuel walks. Talisker is still worth a visit, particularly with a booking at The Three Chimneys at Talisker ( which has just been made a permanent fixture in the lochside building opposite the distillery. I've eaten at The Three Chimneys restaurant before and adore it but it's a big budget treat of a place. This café style offering brings the talent of this famous kitchen to a bigger audience. I sit at the elegant bar and enjoy oysters with a spritz of Talisker 10 and a hearty bowl of Cullen Skink. (Image: Lynne Kennedy Photography) On the road to Talisker is Café Cùil ( run by Skye local Clare Coghill, who relocated her café from London after the pandemic. In the iconic red-roofed building I sip a dried flower topped 'machair matcha' and eat delicious blood orange and beetroot cured local trout with crowdie creme fraiche, and hot sweetcorn fritters with chilli. It's a café that arguably could thrive anywhere but here on Skye with local ingredients and Gaelic language and culture celebrated, is where it truly belongs. It's a bright, joyful place to eat and everyone in the queue knows it. Clare says: 'The bridge is our link to civilization. It does more than you think it does. It makes island living more realistic and more appealing to younger people too.' Chef Calum Montgomery at Edinbane Lodge ( agrees: 'Having the bridge has helped my career too. I can finish service then drive to Edinburgh or Glasgow for an event or a meeting and get back on the island when I want, without worrying about missing the last boat.' Calum and Claire are part of a young generation of returning homegrown culinary talent. Calum says: 'We're all deeply rooted in Skye. A lot of us left and worked elsewhere. We'd be seeing the produce we knew arrive miles from where it was landed and it's just not as good as what we grew up eating. I'm so proud of the whole place now.' At Edinbane Lodge I eat an enormous scallop with a dulse butter sauce, and local hake with wild garlic. Calum calls his menu 'A Taste of Skye', and it's exactly that: an embrace of the very best Skye ingredients. The menu shows the distances the produce travels to the restaurant, for the scallops hand dived in Loch Greshornish, the Edinbane venison, the sea herbs and garden vegetables, it's zero miles. Skye can get busy, that's undeniable, but by visiting off-season and exploring beyond the island's tick-box attractions it doesn't have to feel that way. It's a big island with so much to see. Part of the joy of the bridge is visiting Skye is easier year-round: you never need worry about a rocky winter crossing, just look forward to a quiet week of big skies and dramatic scenery. (Image: Michael_Dickie_Square_Foot) More businesses are staying open in winter than ever before, which also creates permanent rather than seasonal jobs. Upgrading infrastructure takes time, and money, but it is happening. There are now good car parks at the Fairy Pools, the Quiraing, the Old Man of Storr, and Neist Point (but only a small heavily rutted one at Coral Beach so be aware). Car park fees help maintain and improve facilities and contribute toconservation and community projects. Potholes do remain an ongoing issue. I try to stay somewhere different each time I'm on Skye. This time it's Bracken Hide Hotel ( on the hill overlooking Portree. Above a spacious hotel restaurant and bar, little wooden 'hides' are dotted up the hillside. Inside the rooms are surprisingly spacious and fitted out in a luxurious Scandi-Scot style. From my front deck I have a panorama of the sky and mountains to myself. The hotel restaurant Am Braigh ( is a great new discovery. I eat leggy langoustines with garlic butter and local samphire. Later my wee deck is a perfect stargazing spot. I also stay a night at sister-hotel Marmalade ( on the other side of Portree. The rooms here are large and lovely, overlooking trees with a distant view of the Cullins. It's an ideal location for exploring Portree, and just a five minute walk from Birch Cafe ( one of Skye's best spots for coffee or brunch. I leave here with a hearty slice of topped focaccia and a perfect pistachio pastel de nata to sustain me on the drive home. As I cross back over the bridge, I glance longingly in my rear-view mirror, already plotting my next trip.
Yahoo
10-04-2025
- Yahoo
Adventurer apologises over ‘first' Baffin Island claim after Inuit backlash
A British adventurer who claimed to be the first woman to solo traverse Canada's largest island has apologised after she was criticised for her 'ignorance'. Camilla Hempleman-Adams battled temperatures as low as minus 40C and winds of 47mph during the two-week expedition. The 32-year-old covered 150 miles on foot and by ski while pulling a sledge, and finished in 13 days – a day faster than expected. The solo trek across Canada's largest island took Ms Hempleman-Adams from Qikiqtarjuaq to Pangnirtung, through the unforgiving landscape of Auyuittuq National Park. Members of the native Inuit population said her claim was incorrect and said people living there having travelled the same route for generations. Writing on Instagram, Gayle Uyagaqi Kabloona, an Inuit artist based in Ottawa, said: 'If you look deeper you'll see a larger problem: erasure of Inuit on our own lands. 'In news coverage, Baffin Island is said to be uninhabited, with not much life. 'There is no way in hell a British coloniser is coming to Inuit Nunaat in 2025 and claiming any firsts. 'My gramma walked hundreds of kilometres yearly, often pregnant, to spring fishing and winter caribou hunting grounds because that was life. 'Every inch of this continent has indigenous history and stories like this. Help me call out this ignorant and racist behaviour.' Following the criticism, Ms Hempleman-Adams said: 'I want to express my apologies for any offence caused by recent articles regarding my solo winter traverse from Qikiqtarjuaq to Pangnirtung through the Akshayuk Pass. 'It was never my intention to misrepresent any historical achievements or cause distress to local communities. 'Before undertaking the expedition, I researched and verified the accuracy of my claim with Parks Canada and local outfitters in both towns who confirmed that there was no known female solo winter crossing from Qikiqtarjuaq to Pangnirtung. 'However, if this information is incorrect, I apologise unreservedly for making an incorrect claim and for causing offence. 'I have deep respect for the land, its people, and their history. 'I have travelled in this region multiple times and hold immense admiration for its nature, culture and traditions. 'I am truly saddened that the coverage of my journey may have caused concern or upset, and I remain committed to learning from this experience and engaging with the community with the utmost respect.' Ms Hempleman-Adams, a producer living in London, previously became the youngest British female to ski to the North Pole at the age of just 15. She hoped the Baffin Island challenge would inspire women to break boundaries, as well as highlight the impact of climate change on the region and its Inuit communities. The attempt was supported by Torabhaig Distillery, a whisky maker on the Isle of Skye.
The Independent
31-03-2025
- The Independent
Explorer becomes first woman to solo traverse Baffin Island
A British explorer has become the first woman to solo traverse across Canada's freezing Baffin Island a day earlier than expected. Camilla Hempleman-Adams battled temperatures as low as minus 40C and winds of 47mph during the two-week expedition. The 32-year-old covered 150 miles on foot and by ski while pulling a sledge, and finished in 13 days – a day faster than expected. Speaking from the Inuit hamlet of Pangnirtung on the island at the end of the expedition, Ms Hempleman-Adams said: 'I think I'm not sure how I feel right now to be honest, I'm still taking it in. 'I'm feeling pretty exhausted, I have very sore feet, but it's nice to be back in civilisation, just slowly settling back in. 'It's been a really tough two weeks, but an incredible two weeks.' The explorer's father, adventurer Sir David Hempleman-Adams, flew out to Canada to meet her at the finish line. Sir David, from Wiltshire, said: 'What she's achieved is quite extraordinary. I've done this pass a few times – it was some really extreme weather this time across. 'I was really, really worried. She was right on the edge. It was wind speeds of 30 knots [34mph], and that's just dangerous in these temperatures. 'Being solo, you've got to be really on top of your game the whole time. If you just lose concentration for five minutes, it's a real problem. 'It's extraordinary and I'm immensely proud of her. 'It's a fantastic advertisement for females. I mean, we are big, ugly and strong, but she's half my weight and did it twice as fast as I did.' The solo trek across Canada's largest island took Ms Hempleman-Adams from Qikiqtarjuaq to Pangnirtung, through the unforgiving landscape of Auyuittuq National Park. She took a satellite phone and updated a daily online blog during the challenge. On the penultimate day, she wrote: ' Tiredness aside, the thought that I'm nearing the end of this expedition is a sad prospect. 'The finish line beckons, and I have been thinking about a hot shower quite frequently.' She said on completion of the challenge: 'When you go in by yourself, you just have a mindset to keep going. 'You adapt, you have the mindset that you can't give up. There is no giving up in those conditions. 'I was firmly just, keep going, one step in front of the other.' Ms Hempleman-Adams, a producer living in London, previously became the youngest British female to ski to the North Pole at the age of just 15. She hoped the Baffin Island challenge would inspire women to break boundaries, as well as highlight the impact of climate change on the region and its Inuit communities. The attempt was supported by Torabhaig Distillery, a whisky maker on the Isle of Skye.
The Independent
09-03-2025
- The Independent
Explorer aims to become first woman to complete -40C expedition solo
A British explorer is aiming to become the first woman to solo traverse across Canada's Baffin Island, battling temperatures as low as -40C. Camilla Hempleman-Adams, 32, will cover 150 miles during the two-week expedition, which she will complete on foot and by ski while pulling a sledge in winds of up to 68mph. She hopes the challenge will inspire women to break boundaries, as well as highlighting the impact of climate change on the region and its local Inuit communities. Ms Hempleman-Adams, a producer living in London, previously became the youngest British female to ski to the North Pole at the age of just 15. Her father, the adventurer Sir David Hempleman-Adams, from Wiltshire, will fly out to Canada with her next Thursday – with the solo challenge expected to begin a few days later. Sir David will be waiting for his daughter at the finish line. 'I have two sisters and growing up in a family of explorers, our dad would always encourage us to take on challenges regardless of our gender – it's a nightmare when we get together to play games at Christmas,' Ms Hempleman-Adams said. 'I was part of a similar trek group across Baffin Island two years ago and I thought, I can do this solo. 'I want to show other women out there that boundaries can be broken and I hope this expedition inspires more women to take on adventures and challenges of their own.' Ms Hempleman-Adams will traverse Baffin Island – Canada's largest island – solo, from Qikiqtarjuaq to Pangnirtung, through the unforgiving landscape of Auyuittuq National Park. She will take a satellite phone and update a daily online blog during the challenge, in which temperatures are expected to range between -20C and -40C. Her preparations for the gruelling trek have included weight training, cardio and dragging heavy tyres. The attempt is being supported by Torabhaig Distillery, a whisky distillery on the Isle of Skye. Emma Sprackling, from the distillery, said: 'Camilla has an incredible explorer family pedigree, and we've loved supporting her father's expeditions over the years, but this solo arctic adventure is all about inspiring younger women to follow in her footsteps.'
Telegraph
09-03-2025
- Telegraph
Adventurer's daughter wants to become first woman to travel solo across Canada's Baffin Island
The daughter of adventurer Sir David Hempleman-Adams is planning to become the first woman to travel solo across Canada's Baffin Island, battling temperatures as low as -40C. Camilla Hempleman-Adams, 32, will cover 150 miles during the two-week expedition, which she will complete on foot and on skis while pulling a sledge in winds of up to 68mph. She hopes the challenge will inspire women to break boundaries while also highlighting the impact of climate change on the region and its local Inuit communities. Ms Hempleman-Adams, a producer living in London, previously became the youngest British female to ski to the North Pole in 2008 at the age of just 15. Her father will fly out to Canada with her next Thursday, with the solo challenge expected to begin a few days later. Sir David is the first person to have reached both the Geographic and Magnetic North and South Poles, climbed the highest peaks in all seven continents, flown to the North Pole in a balloon, and crossed the Atlantic in an open basket. He will be waiting for his daughter at the finish line. 'I have two sisters and growing up in a family of explorers, our dad would always encourage us to take on challenges regardless of our gender – it's a nightmare when we get together to play games at Christmas,' Ms Hempleman-Adams said. 'I was part of a similar trek group across Baffin Island two years ago and I thought 'I can do this solo'. 'I want to show other women out there that boundaries can be broken and I hope this expedition inspires more women to take on adventures and challenges of their own.' Ms. Hempleman-Adams will solo traverse Baffin Island – Canada's largest island – from Qikiqtarjuaq to Pangnirtung, crossing the unforgiving landscape of Auyuittuq National Park. She will carry a satellite phone and update a daily online blog throughout the challenge, where temperatures are expected to range from -20C to -40C. Her preparations for the gruelling trek have included weight training, cardio and dragging heavy tyres. The attempt is being supported by Torabhaig Distillery, a whisky distillery on the Isle of Skye. Emma Sprackling, the distillery's senior brand manager, said: 'Camilla has an incredible explorer family pedigree and we've loved supporting her father's expeditions over the years. But this solo Arctic adventure is all about inspiring younger women to follow in her footsteps.'
