Latest news with #Toshiharu
Hypebeast
6 days ago
- Entertainment
- Hypebeast
Hypebeast Community Center：專訪墨西哥酷兒品牌 TANAMACHI
用電梯簡報形式向我們介紹 TANAMACHI。 TANAMACHI是來自墨西哥的酷兒品牌，靈感取材自 CDMX 日常生活中的善惡兩面。我們以本地 deadstock 布料打造易於穿著、無性別的服飾，讓衣服說故事 —— 說我們自己的故事。我們相信，時裝不只是一塊布，更是一種溝通與賦能的力量。 誰在買 TANAMACHI？ CDMX 那班最 in 的潮流頑童；懂的自然懂。 TANAMACHI 的核心訊息是什麼？ 一切關於「愛」與「可能性」：TANAMACHI 源於一對戀人 —— 負責創意的我（Toshiharu）與主理營運的 Mauricio。我們深信墨西哥毋須向外取經，也能講出自己的設計語言；在這片土地經營創意品牌，同樣可以闖出成績。 TANAMACHI 何時正式面世？ 首件縫上 TANAMACHI 標籤的作品誕生於 2018 年。起初我只做訂製西裝，直到疫情期間遇上 Mauricio；Mau 的商業腦把品牌帶向 ready-to-wear。 人們會在哪裡穿 TANAMACHI？ 任何場合！這正是我們單品的魅力 —— 真正實穿。由健身房、會議室、晚餐到夜蒲，都能自在又有型。 為何要創立 TANAMACHI？ 因為沒有人替我們把這段故事穿上身！再說，我對時裝的痴迷已無可救藥，想不到別的出路。 你的混血背景如何影響你的設計美學？ 這故事有點複雜。我的曾祖父母與祖父母為逃離二戰，從日本輾轉來到墨西哥。落腳沒多久，隨著戰事加劇，墨西哥政府將日、意、德裔移民拘禁長達 5 年。獲釋後，祖父母害怕再被標籤成日本人，於是告訴父親和一眾叔伯姑姨：「你們跟 taco 一樣地道墨西哥。」他們否認自己的血脈，只怕歷史重演。我和堂兄妹正在拼湊線索，重新連結祖源，但我想我終究還是更像墨西哥人。 在創立 TANAMACHI 之前，有哪些塑造你創意的啟蒙？ Stefani Joanne Angelina Germanotta（Lady Gaga）以及墨西哥流行文化：María Félix、Teresa Chávez、Thalía、Pedro Ramírez Vázquez，再到「Mexican Miracle」。 你的 Box 輪廓不斷出現在迷你短褲、長褲、裙裝等設計。為何拳擊成了品牌核心元素？ 我討厭運動，但熱愛復古運動裝。對於我這個同志又懶運動的人來說，一想到 Chilango 的運動就會浮現拳擊、lucha libre 和足球。傳統運動裝舒適卻欠美感，我們便想把兩邊優點結合 —— 既舒適又時髦。於是把拳擊腰帶元素放進任何下身款式，概念就此誕生。 可以多講講 CDMX 的創意圈嗎？ CDMX 一直都是創意熔爐，歷史離奇又悠長，任何事情都有可能發生。或許這裡就是真正的造夢工廠，而世人現在才開始注意。 在 CDMX，還有哪些品牌或設計師是你現在最愛的？ 這裡幾乎每種品味都找得到對應品牌，例如 Campillo、Cueva、Ppaayyss、ODIC、Barragán、Ditzy 等。 你與酷兒社群緊密相連 —— 這份身份如何影響品牌訊息與策略？ 在這個年代，毫無歉意地做自己、驕傲地 queer，本身就是力量。我們會一直在這裡。 為何決定在系列中全面使用 deadstock 布料？ 時裝是地球上最具污染性的行業之一；選用本地 deadstock 物料這個小舉動，也算為大局盡一分力。 使用 deadstock 設計時會遇到什麼挑戰？ 這確實是一把雙刃劍：每款只能做少量，利弊並存。設計時我們無法預先鎖定布料，因為不知道會淘到什麼。我們跑到 CDMX 市中心尋寶，也許能找到 10 米真絲，但下次就再也遇不到。 可以分享一下你們最新的 drop／系列嗎？ HOT PEOPLE FROM MY TEENS SS25是一封寫給 2000 年代末、在 CDMX 度過青春歲月的我們的情書，用漫畫式誇張去描繪那些早已成為回憶的典型角色：emo kid、Mirrey、Hi5 蛇蠍美人到 wannabe indie sleaze kid。系列歌頌那股「改變世界」的少年焦躁 —— 畢竟，有時感覺當年被承諾的未來根本沒有到來，甚至更糟。 歷來系列中，你最鍾愛哪件單品？ 首個系列的 Pachuco 西裝 —— 讓我們被市場看見；拳擊長褲 —— 它們幫我們交租；首場走秀的 quinceañera 拳擊裙 —— 最能濃縮我們的願景；還有 SS25 的銀色氣球裙 —— 可愛到瘋。 未來還想探索哪些主題或品類？ 我們想推出品牌首支標誌性香氛！我迷戀派對散場後香水混著煙味的氣息…… 又或者做鞋？我也想打造下一雙「it」級墨西哥鞋。 你怎樣看 chanclas／夾腳拖回歸成為潮流？ 此刻答題的我正穿著一雙可愛的皮涼鞋。終於，男人也肯 —— 字面意義上 —— 把腳趾塞進有趣的鞋子裡。不過如果你住在城市，回家洗腳可是必須。
Hypebeast
08-08-2025
- Entertainment
- Hypebeast
Hypebeast Community Center: TANAMACHI
Give us the Tanamachi elevator pitch. TANAMACHIis a queer Mexican brand inspired by the vices and virtues of everyday life in CDMX [Ciudad de México] . We create wearable and gender-neutral pieces from deadstock materials that tell a story — our story. We believe that fashion isn't merely clothing, but a way of communication and empowerment. Who shops at Tanamachi? The cool kids of CDMX. The ones who get it, get it. What is Tanamachi's main message? Love and possibility: Everything in TANAMACHI comes out of the minds of two lovers, me (Toshiharu) on the creative side and Mauricio on the business side. We believe that Mexico can create its own design language without looking abroad and that it's possible to be a successful creative business in Mexico. When did you launch Tanamachi? The first garment with the TANAMACHI label was created in 2018. In the beginning, I only made custom-made suits, but then I met Mauricio when the pandemic hit. Mau's business mind changed the direction of the brand into ready-to-wear pieces. Where are people wearing Tanamachi? Everywhere! That's the beauty of our pieces, they're actually wearable. So you can go to the gym, have a meeting, go to dinner, or go out, and you'll feel comfortable (while still looking hot). Why was Tanamachi started? Because no one was telling our side of the story through clothes! Also, I've always been obsessed with fashion; I couldn't see myself doing anything else. How does your mixed heritage inform your design aesthetic? It's a little bit complicated. My great-grandparents and grandparents came from Japan to Mexico, escaping WWII. They established themselves here for a while, but when the war got ugly, the Mexican government imprisoned Japanese, Italian, and German immigrants for 5 they were finally released, my grandparents were afraid to be openly Japanese, so they taught my dad, my aunts, and uncles that they were as Mexican as a taco. They denied all of their heritage because they were afraid that if another war happened, things would end up the same as they were cousins and I are trying to connect the dots and finally rediscover our ancestry. However, I think I'll always feel more Mexican than anything else. What were some of your formative creative inspirations before launching Tanamachi? Stefani Joanne Angelina Germanotta (a.k.a. Lady Gaga). Mexican pop culture: María Félix, Teresa Chávez, Thalía, Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, the Mexican Miracle. Your Box silhouette recurs in mini-shorts, long pants, skirts, etc. How did boxing become a central theme in your brand? I hate sports, but I love vintage sportswear. In my gay, unathletic mind, when I think of Chilango [Mexico City] sports, I think of boxing, lucha libre, and soccer. Traditional sportswear is comfortable but ugly — so we wanted to create a garment that includes the best of both worlds: something comfortable yet stylish. That's how we came up with the idea of a boxing waistband applied to any type of bottom. Can you tell us more about the creative community in CDMX? CDMX has always been a major creative hub; it has such a surreal and long history, and anything can happen here. Maybe it's therealfactory of dreams, and people are just starting to notice. Are there other brands or designers in the CDMX community you're loving right now? You can find a Mexican brand for literally every taste. Some examples are Campillo, Cueva, Ppaayyss, ODIC, Barragán, Ditzy, among others. You closely identify with the queer community — how does this part of your identity inform your brand's messaging and approach? In these times, I think it's very powerful to be unapologetically queer and stay true to ourselves. We'll always be here. How did you choose to start using all deadstock fabric in your collections? Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. A small action like using only locally sourced deadstock materials can help the bigger issue. Are there any challenges to designing with deadstock? Yes, it's a double-edged sword. We can only create a limited number of pieces of each garment, which can be a good or a bad thing. When designing a garment, we never have a specific fabric in mind because we never know what we'll be able to find. We go downtown CDMX with an open mind to discover treasures. We might discover 10 meters of silk, but we won't find that again. Can you tell us more about your latest drop/collection? HOT PEOPLE FROM MY TEENS SS25is an ode to being a teenager in the late 2000s in CDMX. It's a caricature of archetypes of a bygone era: the emo kid, the Mirrey, the Hi5 femme fatale, the wannabe indie sleaze kid. It's a celebration of that teen angst about changing the world, because sometimes it feels like the world we were promised in those years never came to be true. And everything is worse. Do you have a favorite piece from your previous collections? The Pachuco suit from our first collection, because it put us on the map; the boxing pants because they pay the rent; the quinceañera boxing skirt from our first runway, because it summarizes the best of our vision, and finally the silver balloon dress from our SS25 collection, because it's cute AF. Are there any themes or product categories you'd like to explore in the future? In the future, we want to create our first signature scent! I love the smell of worn perfume and cigarettes after a party… or maybe shoes? I would also love to create the next 'it' Mexican shoe. Do you have an opinion on the revival of chanclas/flip-flops as a growing fashion trend? I am answering this question while wearing some cute leather sandals. Finally, men are dipping their toes (literally) in fun shoes. Though if you live in a city, washing your feet when you get home is amust.
