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The Guardian
03-03-2025
- General
- The Guardian
St John's blackberry pavlova recipe by Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver
We like a pavlova in place of a wedding cake, but such an impressive centrepiece is worthy of any celebration. Use peaches, poached quinces, raspberries, or anything else that is in season. Makes a 3-tier pavlova, which will feed 20For the meringuefree-range egg whites 10 large white-wine vinegar 20ml vanilla extract 20ml caster sugar 900g cornflour 70g For the fillingblackberries 1kg, about 6 punnetslemon juice of ½ double cream 1 litre caster sugar a little, to tastevanilla extract 1 tsp Place the egg whites, vinegar and vanilla into a spotlessly clean bowl and whisk on a medium speed until soft peaks form. At this point start to add the caster sugar little by little, whisking as you go, until all the sugar is incorporated. Once stiff peaks have formed, add the cornflour and whisk again quickly, on a high speed. You will have a smooth, glossy, malleable mass. Line 3 large flat baking trays with parchment and make a mound of egg white on each: the first mound should be double the size of the second, the second should be double the size of the third. Flatten the mounds into discs and bake in a low oven for up to 3 hours, until the first signs of gold appear, then turn the oven off and wait for it to cool – the result will be crisp without and fluffy within. Take 1 punnet of blackberries (about 150g) and sprinkle with lemon juice (like salt on meat, lemon juice makes fruit taste more of itself), then blitz them to make a sauce. In a new bowl add a little sugar to the cream according to taste, remembering that the meringue is very sweet, then add the vanilla extract and whisk to just beyond the ribbon stage. There should be enough structure to make a heap, but a gooeyness is highly desirable. Now, the glorious assembly! Take the largest disc of meringue, spread it generously with cream and throw a handful of blackberries into the centre. Top with the next disc, more cream, a few more berries in the centre, then finally the last piece of meringue, a proud heap of cream and all the rest of the berries, heaped and tumbling down the sides. To serve, pour the blackberry sauce over the top and sides of your beautiful mountain, running down in rivulets. From The Book of St John by Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver (Ebury, £35)


South China Morning Post
18-02-2025
- Entertainment
- South China Morning Post
It became Anthony Bourdain's favourite restaurant. It's coming to Hong Kong
Published: 12:45pm, 18 Feb 2025 When restaurateur and wine lover Trevor Gulliver and chef Fergus Henderson opened St John in 1994, London's dining scene was a world away from what it is today. Haute cuisine was still in the throes of foam and frippery, edible gold leaf was the height of glamour and the bill at the end of the meal was gilded to match. Meanwhile, London's more affordable restaurants were not known for the quality of their food. The wines that accompanied dinner were also unlikely to inspire raptures. 'In the 1980s and 90s, Chardonnay was either a grape or a Chelsea footballer's daughter's name,' says Gulliver with a chuckle, as we meet at St John in London's Smithfield ahead of the restaurant's two-day residency at 181 at Fortnum & Mason Hong Kong from March 11 to 12. 'There was a restaurateur here in London, he's dead now but who I used to be good friends with, let's call him Mr Corret – I won't use his real name. He had an Italian restaurant, which he called Corretti; an Italian-Portuguese restaurant called Correto; and a French restaurant called Corette. The wine he served at these restaurants all came from the same tanker. 'He used to bottle it round the back of London Bridge. It was not so much a wild West in those days as wine being a largely unknown thing.'