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The National
3 days ago
- Lifestyle
- The National
Things to do in Melrose, a 'well-to-do oasis' in the Scottish Borders
Not in a bad way: this is a well-to-do oasis that proudly holds on to its heritage, its fiercely independent shops and, yes, its rugby. Melrose is the home of Rugby Sevens, after all. And so much more besides. Melrose is a town built on sturdy foundations. Various English kings tried to shake them in battle and, although its landmark abbey was sacked in the process, the land of the Borders Reivers held firm. Rambling around the abbey's ruins today you get a real sense of both its original grandeur and Melrose's importance when the Cistercians chose it as the site of their first Scottish abbey after David I granted them permission to build in 1136. (Image: Borders Abbey Way) Melrose saw off the Romans, too, letting them mess around with building the doomed Antonine Wall using the Trimontium fort here as a supply depot, before the local tribes combined to kick them out. They were expelled with such force the director of the town's Trimontium Museum, John Reid, once told me: 'Scotland was Rome's Afghanistan'. As well as all manner of exhibits on a Roman theme you can fulfil childhood fantasies and dress up as a scarlet-clad legionnaire or hurl back in time to the days when emperors visited Scotland's largest Roman fort with the aid of the striking new virtual reality headsets in the impressive museum extension that opened last year. You'll need more of your own imagination out at the sprawling fort site, though information boards tell the tales we know so far and the most northerly amphitheatre in the Roman Empire has been unearthed. They've just secured the site for another 25 years so expect some serious digging to follow once all of the usual hurdles have been overcome. This town on the mighty River Tweed swims in history far beyond the Romans. Legend has it King Arthur still lies interred in the Eildon Hills that gave the Romans inspiration for naming their fort. A much earlier Iron Age fortification sits atop one of the three Eildons, offering views of the Tweed Valley, easily up there with the more celebrated 'Scott's View' nearby. (Image: Getty Images) Also in the shadow of the Eildons, just a short walk south of Trimontium, is the Rhymer's Stone. It is on the site where the Eildon Tree once stood, the arbour that transported Thomas the Rhymer off from the Thirteenth Century into the magical world of the fairies. At the time the prophecies and 'wisdom' he returned with were not treated like fairytales. Perhaps King Alexander III should have paid more heed as the soothsayer predicted the monarch's tragic death on that stormy night in Fife. Grounding ourselves back in the solid stone reality of Melrose's High Street, I find the town's residents proud both of their history but also of how Melrose shapes up today. No massive supermarkets – or small ones for that matter – suck the lifeblood out of Melrose's core, which unfurls around a grand mercat cross topped with a unicorn. What Melrose does have is proper wee businesses: an old-world butcher, deli, galleries, wines store, antique shops and even a book binder. There is, too, of course, a locally made Melrose Gin. (Image: Robin McKelvie) Nick Henderson, whose family have run Burt's Hotel for 54 years – and the Townhouse Hotel across the road for 21 years – told me: 'Melrose is a town with one foot in the past and one foot in the present. We are proud of both here and you can easily enjoy both sides as a visitor, which is a large part I think of why people love to come here.' Visitors do come to Melrose but mercifully they don't descend in the campervan-driven hordes that can blight other holiday spots in Scotland. Bar the summer book festival and the annual Melrose Sevens rugby extravaganza, I've never found Melrose overrun. Its environs make the town itself look like Manhattan. On this visit I hiked on the Borders Abbeys Way from Sir Walter's Scott's old Tweed-side gaff at Abbotsford all the way up through the forests and farmland to Lindean Loch and didn't see another human. (Image: Robin McKelvie) At Lindean Loch I did encounter Laura Mitchell, the bubbly presence behind Cedar Hus Sauna. They don't mess about in this corner of Scotland and, pleasantries exchanged, Laura soon led me into the chill waters. Laura wasn't done with just a post-swim sauna either, as she imbued the steam with the spirit-soaring scent of pine, then proceeded to thrash me with birch in a scene definitely more Malmo than Melrose. The Borders Abbeys Way is just one of the impressive local walks. You can hike off from Melrose Abbey on a 68-mile circular hike around the quartet of ruined Borders abbeys or continue the ecclesiastic theme joining St Cuthbert on his way – a 62-mile march south across the border to Lindisfarne. If you're really keen, you can bash over west to Portpatrick on the Atlantic coast, for a challenging long-distance trail that sweeps you from the Borders 215 miles west to the far extremities of Dumfries and Galloway. Community-led Melrose Paths publish a wee map and leaflet revealing some more modest local walks. All too soon – it always is with Melrose – I was leaving, joining the Borders Abbeys Way again as it snakes off west from Melrose along the Tweed. It was just me, a brace of dog walkers, a gaggle of ducks and a buzzard doing a decent eagle impression on the three miles walk along the river and back to Tweedbank railway station. The train nips you from here to Edinburgh in just an hour. I strongly suggest you enjoy a voyage in the other direction and explore the most trim of the Borders market towns. Foodie Melrose Tempest Brewing Co You'd expect a brilliant new venue from a brilliant family-owned brewery and this doesn't disappoint. No mere brewery, this vast space is also a US-style taproom, beer hall, well-stocked shop, beer garden and an informal restaurant. Wash the smash burgers down with beers from the 16 taps, all within staggering distance of Tweedbank railway station. The Townhouse Run by James, brother of Burt's owner Nick, James, there is the choice again between two dining spaces – this time the bright brasserie or the slightly more formal restaurant. Local produce abounds in both. Kick off with the likes of haggis pakora or locally smoked trout, before a sirloin of Borders beef, or sea bream fillets spiced with a Thai curry sauce. Burt's Owner Nick Henderson ensures local produce and local butcher meat feature heavily on both the bar and the restaurant menu. Kick off with the likes of Belhaven smoked salmon then move on to a rump of perfectly pink Borders lamb. They stock the excellent ales from local brewery Tempest Brewery Co too. Bed Down in Melrose Burt's Hotel In the same family – the Hendersons – for five decades, this trim, welcoming hotel on the High Street is perfectly located. Choose from 20 en suite rooms. I first stayed here almost two decades ago and it has barely changed – here that is a very good thing at a traditional hotel that still has an old school residents lounge. The Townhouse Just across the road from Burt's Hotel, this equally welcoming bolthole is also owned and run by the ubiquitous Hendersons. It has a bit more of a contemporary boutique vibe but is still cosy. Harmony House A grand old stone dame owned by the National Trust for Scotland. This palatial retreat is ideal for extended families or groups of friends, as it sleeps a dozen in some comfort. This self-catering option feels like having your own mini-Abbotsford in the heart of Melrose. You also enjoy privileged access to the celebrated Harmony Garden.
The Herald Scotland
3 days ago
- Lifestyle
- The Herald Scotland
Visiting Melrose, a 'well-to-do oasis' in the Scottish Borders
Rambling around the abbey's ruins today you get a real sense of both its original grandeur and Melrose's importance when the Cistercians chose it as the site of their first Scottish abbey after David I granted them permission to build in 1136. (Image: Borders Abbey Way) Melrose saw off the Romans, too, letting them mess around with building the doomed Antonine Wall using the Trimontium fort here as a supply depot, before the local tribes combined to kick them out. They were expelled with such force the director of the town's Trimontium Museum, John Reid, once told me: 'Scotland was Rome's Afghanistan'. As well as all manner of exhibits on a Roman theme you can fulfil childhood fantasies and dress up as a scarlet-clad legionnaire or hurl back in time to the days when emperors visited Scotland's largest Roman fort with the aid of the striking new virtual reality headsets in the impressive museum extension that opened last year. You'll need more of your own imagination out at the sprawling fort site, though information boards tell the tales we know so far and the most northerly amphitheatre in the Roman Empire has been unearthed. They've just secured the site for another 25 years so expect some serious digging to follow once all of the usual hurdles have been overcome. This town on the mighty River Tweed swims in history far beyond the Romans. Legend has it King Arthur still lies interred in the Eildon Hills that gave the Romans inspiration for naming their fort. A much earlier Iron Age fortification sits atop one of the three Eildons, offering views of the Tweed Valley, easily up there with the more celebrated 'Scott's View' nearby. (Image: Getty Images) Also in the shadow of the Eildons, just a short walk south of Trimontium, is the Rhymer's Stone. It is on the site where the Eildon Tree once stood, the arbour that transported Thomas the Rhymer off from the Thirteenth Century into the magical world of the fairies. At the time the prophecies and 'wisdom' he returned with were not treated like fairytales. Perhaps King Alexander III should have paid more heed as the soothsayer predicted the monarch's tragic death on that stormy night in Fife. Grounding ourselves back in the solid stone reality of Melrose's High Street, I find the town's residents proud both of their history but also of how Melrose shapes up today. No massive supermarkets – or small ones for that matter – suck the lifeblood out of Melrose's core, which unfurls around a grand mercat cross topped with a unicorn. What Melrose does have is proper wee businesses: an old-world butcher, deli, galleries, wines store, antique shops and even a book binder. There is, too, of course, a locally made Melrose Gin. (Image: Robin McKelvie) Nick Henderson, whose family have run Burt's Hotel for 54 years – and the Townhouse Hotel across the road for 21 years – told me: 'Melrose is a town with one foot in the past and one foot in the present. We are proud of both here and you can easily enjoy both sides as a visitor, which is a large part I think of why people love to come here.' Visitors do come to Melrose but mercifully they don't descend in the campervan-driven hordes that can blight other holiday spots in Scotland. Bar the summer book festival and the annual Melrose Sevens rugby extravaganza, I've never found Melrose overrun. Its environs make the town itself look like Manhattan. On this visit I hiked on the Borders Abbeys Way from Sir Walter's Scott's old Tweed-side gaff at Abbotsford all the way up through the forests and farmland to Lindean Loch and didn't see another human. (Image: Robin McKelvie) At Lindean Loch I did encounter Laura Mitchell, the bubbly presence behind Cedar Hus Sauna. They don't mess about in this corner of Scotland and, pleasantries exchanged, Laura soon led me into the chill waters. Laura wasn't done with just a post-swim sauna either, as she imbued the steam with the spirit-soaring scent of pine, then proceeded to thrash me with birch in a scene definitely more Malmo than Melrose. The Borders Abbeys Way is just one of the impressive local walks. You can hike off from Melrose Abbey on a 68-mile circular hike around the quartet of ruined Borders abbeys or continue the ecclesiastic theme joining St Cuthbert on his way – a 62-mile march south across the border to Lindisfarne. If you're really keen, you can bash over west to Portpatrick on the Atlantic coast, for a challenging long-distance trail that sweeps you from the Borders 215 miles west to the far extremities of Dumfries and Galloway. Community-led Melrose Paths publish a wee map and leaflet revealing some more modest local walks. All too soon – it always is with Melrose – I was leaving, joining the Borders Abbeys Way again as it snakes off west from Melrose along the Tweed. It was just me, a brace of dog walkers, a gaggle of ducks and a buzzard doing a decent eagle impression on the three miles walk along the river and back to Tweedbank railway station. The train nips you from here to Edinburgh in just an hour. I strongly suggest you enjoy a voyage in the other direction and explore the most trim of the Borders market towns. Foodie Melrose Tempest Brewing Co You'd expect a brilliant new venue from a brilliant family-owned brewery and this doesn't disappoint. No mere brewery, this vast space is also a US-style taproom, beer hall, well-stocked shop, beer garden and an informal restaurant. Wash the smash burgers down with beers from the 16 taps, all within staggering distance of Tweedbank railway station. The Townhouse Run by James, brother of Burt's owner Nick, James, there is the choice again between two dining spaces – this time the bright brasserie or the slightly more formal restaurant. Local produce abounds in both. Kick off with the likes of haggis pakora or locally smoked trout, before a sirloin of Borders beef, or sea bream fillets spiced with a Thai curry sauce. Burt's Owner Nick Henderson ensures local produce and local butcher meat feature heavily on both the bar and the restaurant menu. Kick off with the likes of Belhaven smoked salmon then move on to a rump of perfectly pink Borders lamb. They stock the excellent ales from local brewery Tempest Brewery Co too. Bed Down in Melrose Burt's Hotel In the same family – the Hendersons – for five decades, this trim, welcoming hotel on the High Street is perfectly located. Choose from 20 en suite rooms. I first stayed here almost two decades ago and it has barely changed – here that is a very good thing at a traditional hotel that still has an old school residents lounge. The Townhouse Just across the road from Burt's Hotel, this equally welcoming bolthole is also owned and run by the ubiquitous Hendersons. It has a bit more of a contemporary boutique vibe but is still cosy. Harmony House A grand old stone dame owned by the National Trust for Scotland. This palatial retreat is ideal for extended families or groups of friends, as it sleeps a dozen in some comfort. This self-catering option feels like having your own mini-Abbotsford in the heart of Melrose. You also enjoy privileged access to the celebrated Harmony Garden.
The National
04-05-2025
- The National
Trains, tales and tranquillity: why Melrose is my great escape
When I was a wee laddie we often hauled down to visit relatives in Galashiels. The 1980s weren't that kind to Gala so my impressions of a Borders town were not entirely positive. My lovely Uncle Donald used to say if only they would bring the railway back from Edinburgh ... Well, in 2015, trains ran once again on the Borders Line, though sadly my uncle never lived to see them breathe new life into Gala. The railways have also breathed new life into Melrose, a town that was already doing well, as the terminus at Tweedbank lies less than an hour's stroll away along the Tweed. I was on the first public service to run on the rail route in 2015 and can still remember the palpable sense of excitement at a new railway line Scotland could be proud of. My girls enjoyed it too as they were on all the BBC news bulletins sporting their wee kilts. READ MORE: Restless Natives rides again as cult film gets a musical makeover I was also excited – as I always am on the well over a dozen plus times I've been – to be back in Melrose. For me, Melrose is the quintessential Borders market town, with its trim High Street alive with independent shops that thrive without the dominance of the supermarkets. There are lovely wee food shops, art galleries and antique shops. Despite its bijou size I seem to always find something different and when I was back last month I stumbled upon Felicity Bristow, a bubbly bookbinder. How many towns can boast a bookbinder? I say I stumbled across Felicity, but I was more led there by Stewart Wilson, a tour guide and blogger. Stewart was brought up in the Borders and his passion is infectious. He is a huge fan of Melrose. (Image: South of Scotland Destination Alliance) 'It's a great wee town,' he told me, querying why more people don't come here. 'So many people miss out the Borders completely and Melrose could definitely handle plenty more visitors. For me, it should be as popular as the likes of St Andrews as there is so much here.' There is so much in and around Melrose. The town is twinned with Teba in Spain as that is where King Robert the Bruce's heart was almost lost to the Moors in battle. It survived to be interred here in what is arguably the most beguiling of the romantic Borders abbey ruins. Legend has it that not only did Merlin visit, but King Arthur lies buried in the Eildon Hills. There is Roman history too, with the sprawling Trimontium fort site and superb Trimontium Museum. I've written for The National before about its director John Reid, who reckons his findings around Melrose demonstrate 'Scotland was Rome's Afghanistan'. I've lost count of the people I've introduced Melrose to. I'll never forget the beaming smile of my reluctant walker brother when he summited Eildon Hill North, nor my wife's joy on arriving at Roulotte Retreat in the shadow of those same inspiring hills and checking into our authentic old-world French wood caravan by their duck pond. A smile that broadened when I warmed the wood-fired hot tub and got the Borders lamb on for dinner. Nor will I forget hiking and cycling with pals, nor flitting through the shops with my brace of daughters. Just across from the abbey is the impressive Harmony House. This palatial old dame is owned by the National Trust and you can stay with up to 11 guests. I enjoyed a brilliant weekend at Harmony with some great pals when we only had one daughter, Tara. It was glorious rambling around 'our own castle', enjoying privileged access to the renowned Harmony Garden right in the heart of Melrose. Melrose means a lot to Tara too. We chose her name here at Burts Hotel ( 17 years ago after whittling down a list of 50 potentials on the drive down the A68. Things seem to be clearer here in the fresh, Borders air and we quickly settled on Tara. The hotel has aged little since, offering an old-world sense of calm comfort and hospitality under the assured stewardship of Nick Henderson. His family have run Burts for 54 years and his brother James runs the Townhouse Hotel across the street. This sort of tradition and continuity are at the heart of Melrose, but this is a part of the world too that does not always get the credit it deserves for trying new things. Yes, its backbone is attractions like history and the Rugby Sevens it invented, but on this trip, I enjoyed a brilliant sauna with Cedar Hus Sauna and a visit to the ace new Tempest Brewing Co taproom near the station at Tweedbank. You can keep the Maldives; when I really want to relax and refresh, Melrose awaits just a scenic train trip away from Edinburgh.
