18-07-2025
Exploring Istanbul: Where to eat, what to see, where to stay
Istanbul, the Turkish city that straddles two continents, truly never sleeps. In the early mornings, seagulls swoop through the sky as motorbikes zip around corners and street vendors trundle their carts out onto the sidewalks. The bustle of 16 million people fills the days — and even the ubiquitous cats beloved by many locals seem occupied. Come evening, families, couples and friends spill into the city's enormous selection of restaurants and cafes, their conversations lubricated by omnipresent black tea. A centre of culture, commerce and power for more than 2,000 years, the city, known as Istanbul since 1930, with its Byzantine- and Ottoman-era structures, is a place where the past never feels distant. Yet contemporary culture thrives here. Those who venture into the many neighbourhoods beyond the well-trodden historic centre will be rewarded with stylish boutiques, exciting live music venues, bold restaurants, trendy bars, as well as contemporary and Modern art.
FRIDAY
3pm | Explore Turkish art
The Istanbul Modern, an imposing concrete and steel museum that opened in 2023, sits on a bank of the Bosporus, the busy waterway that divides the European and Asian sides of the city (entry, 750 lira, or US$19, approximately S$24.50). Rotating exhibitions on the ground floor showcase contemporary art. Upstairs, the permanent ' Floating Islands ' exhibition features Turkish artworks from the permanent collection, tracing shifts in Turkish life across the 20th and early 21st centuries. Accompanying placards provide helpful context about artists' education, lives and intentions. Artworks from the later decades include works exploring themes like womanhood, migration and machine intelligence. Don't skip the museum's roof deck, where you'll find 360-degree city views and a reflecting pool that has become a gathering point for seagulls.
4.30pm | Grab a snack and go shopping
From the Istanbul Modern, head into Karakoy, a glitzy harbourside neighbourhood where, alongside five-star hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants, outdoor stands hawk balik durum, or wraps with grilled fish and vegetables. One of those stands, Meshur Balikci Eyyup Usta, elevates the fish wrap with a pomegranate-molasses-and-spice coating (180 lira). Afterward, wander into the Cihangir, Cukurcuma and Kabatas neighborhoods, where every building — whether it's a jewel-toned townhouse or an overflowing antiques shop — has a distinct personality. Check out Local Makers, a concept store selling items by Turkish artisans, like silk scarves by Galene, artisanal Turkish sweets by Marsel Delights and watercolour colouring books by Naz Saner. At Turkish Modern, you'll find ear cuffs, which don't require piercing, with the evil eye design; elaborate Turkish rugs; and handmade olive-oil soap.
8pm | Dine at a revived 1960s villa
With its Art Deco chandeliers, ivy-covered courtyard and caramel leather banquettes, Arkestra feels like a set out of a Great Gatsby remake. This remodelled 1960s villa in the posh Etiler neighbourhood, on the European side, has a Michelin-starred restaurant, a bistro and a music lounge, all of which require reservations that can be made via its website. In the restaurant, Cenk Debensason, the chef, prepares delights like the katsu sando, a thick slice of rare steak nestled between pillowy Japanese-style milk bread, or a light stone bass, a fish served with cabbage and yuzu butter (meal for two, about 9,000 lira). After dinner, head to the Listening Room, a music lounge where DJs spin vinyl either from the house collection or their own. Palm-tree-printed wallpaper and a white-wood balcony lend the space a tropical feel. Drinks include inventive cocktails like the Mandarin, a light, citrusy concoction made with yogurt liqueur and vodka (780 lira).
WHERE TO STAY
The Peninsula Istanbul, a five-star hotel that opened two years ago in what was once a ferry terminal, sits on the waterfront in the trendy Karakoy neighborhood across from the historic center. Behind the hotel, a 25m heated outdoor pool offers sweeping views of the city, and a dock serves as a water taxi stop. In the basement, the hotel has a hamam and an indoor pool, and upstairs, the Michelin-starred chef Fatih Tutak offers cuisine that draws on inspiration from places on the former Silk Road at Gallada. As with many hotels, rates are quoted in euros and vary based on availability and season. Here, they start at 850 euros, or US$980, in summer.
Orientbank Hotel Istanbul, Autograph Collection, a short walk from the city's UNESCO-listed attractions such as the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, is a boutique hotel that used to be a bank. In the basement, a jazz bar occupies the former vault. Upstairs, a circular lounge offers views of the bustling Egyptian Bazaar and the striking Suleymaniye Mosque. A box of Turkish sweet treats and a customized bond certificate from the building's former life greet each guest on arrival. Rooms start at around €175.
Monnas' Rooms, called Monnas Suite on some search engines and hotel booking websites, is a hotel with apartment-style rooms in Cihangir, a neighbourhood of hills and winding streets. A great option for families or groups of friends, Monnas' Rooms offers two- or three-bedroom renovated, spacious, well-decorated apartments for two nights or more, and the reception has 24-hour staffing. Apartments start at €190 a night.
For short-term rentals on the European side, the ideal location is the swath of the Beyoglu district between Refik Saydam Caddesi, a thoroughfare with heavy traffic, and the waterfront. Adjacent to Beyoglu is Sisli, a more modern area that includes the affluent Bomonti and Nisantas neighbourhoods. On the Asian side, Kadikoy is a stylish neighbourhood with plenty of shops, restaurants and bars, as well as handy public transit connections.
No trip to Istanbul is complete without a Turkish breakfast, or kahvalti, of cheeses, olives, spreads, breads, eggs and more. Kahve6, a popular cafe with the feel of a living room inside and a plant-filled, enclosed terrace in the back, offers several options. The Full On Breakfast, plenty for two people, comes with mulberry jam; kaymak, which is like a clotted cream, with honey; spicy tomato paste; olives; lor cheese, similar to cottage cheese, with pickled pepper; a bun; and a glass of strong, steaming Turkish tea (590 lira). Extend the meal with the addition of menemen, umami-rich scrambled eggs with tomatoes and peppers (260 lira). Or skip the Full On and instead try the Izmir Breakfast, which includes melted tulum cheese served in a cast-iron pan that's perfect for dipping simit, a sesame bread ring (395 lira).
12pm | Travel back in time
In the Fatih district, the area that holds some of Istanbul's key UNESCO-designated historic sights, four must-see attractions are within easy walking distance of one another. Start with the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque, a church built in the sixth century that was converted to a mosque after the Ottoman conquest of the city (entry, 1,050 lira). Next, visit the breathtaking Sultan Ahmed Mosque. Known as the Blue Mosque, it is a 17th-century structure decorated inside with 20,000 intricate tiles. Entry is prohibited for tourists during prayer times throughout the day, which change from day to day based on sunrise and sunset, and last about 90 minutes each, but is otherwise free of charge. Continue to Basilica Cistern, an underground complex built around the same time as the Hagia Sophia to store up to 100,000 tons of water for the city. Inside, enormous ancient columns stand amid shallow water, lit by blue, green and purple light (entry with audio guide, 1,500 lira). End at Topkapi Palace, a splendid complex that was once the residence of Ottoman sultans and includes a former harem and a museum showcasing jewels, textiles and weapons. Grab a bite between stops at Hocapasa Pidecisi, which specialises in pide, a large flatbread with toppings like ground meat, cheese and vegetables (one pide, 300 to 400 lira).
3pm | Get the royal treatment at a hamam
For the ultimate relaxation experience, visit the Zeyrek Cinili Hamam, a 16th-century bathhouse that reopened recently after a 13-year, US$15 million restoration. Every session begins with a cold glass of sherbet, a diluted fruit juice. Next, an attendant guides you into the heated bathing area — the men's and women's areas are separate — where the surfaces are an elegant grey marble and the ceiling is decorated with star-shaped holes cut into the stone. The 50-minute Original treatment includes a full-body scrub, a hair wash and a decadent foam massage that feels like slipping into a cloud (€105, about US122, or S$163). At the end, relax with hot tea and refreshing cold towels on a daybed. Afterward, head across the street to Van Golu Gida, a shop selling spices and herbs that the owner scoops from large burlap sacks, and sweet-smelling soaps that can be cut to a custom size.
6pm | Glide between Asia and Europe for US$1
Given its arrangement on two continents divided by a narrow strip of water, Istanbul abounds with boat tours. The cheapest and easiest way to hit the seas is on a ferry. A ride from Eminonu, a harbourside section of the historic centre on the European side, to Kadikoy, a bustling area on the Asian side, takes about 20 minutes and offers spectacular views of the Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque and the Sea of Marmara (one one-way ticket, 40 lira). If the deck becomes too windy, pop inside for a hot Turkish coffee or black tea from the onboard cafe. Ferries are accessible from many points in the city and run regularly. Schedules are available on the ferry operator's website and on Google Maps, and you can tap to pay with a phone or a card.
6.30pm | Nibble your way through Kadikoy
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In the lively heart of Kadikoy, locals crowd the narrow streets, shopping for wares, sipping tea and noshing on street foods. Assemble dinner based on what calls to you. Some suggestions: Start with a sampler of olives, cheeses and dips at Gozde Sarkuteri, a delicatessen that charges based on weight (for an assortment of snacks, expect to spend 200 to 300 lira), then cross the street to a shop called Ozcan Tursu 1935 for a cup of palate-cleansing pickle juice (30 lira). Head to Kadikoy Merkez Borekcisi, where you'll find plenty of seating, for borek, a flaky pastry with fillings like cheese or potatoes (140 lira). End at Tatar Salim, a comfortable, simple restaurant selling doner, juicy slices of lamb served with flatbread and a refreshing salad of herbs, lettuce and pomegranate (410 lira). No reservations needed. Grab a cocktail before or after your feast at the cozy Fahri Konsolos, where ingredients can include pistachio, quince and saffron, and drinks arrive with tiny snacks, like a sliver of homemade baklava (cocktails, 620 lira).
10pm | Rock out to live music
Hop on a ferry, subway or bus, or catch a taxi back to the European side, and head for the well-to-do Bomonti neighborhood for a concert or a DJ gig at Babylon, part of an entertainment complex called Yapi Kredi B omontiada. Situated around a large courtyard buzzing with energy in the evenings, Yapi Kredi Bomontiada also has a museum dedicated to the photojournalist Ara Guler, who was known as the 'Eye of Istanbul,' that's open during the day, as well as several restaurants and an art exhibition space. The Populist serves beers produced on site by Torch Brewery. The Babylon lineup offers Turkish and international acts across genres, including rock, pop, folk and electronic (tickets about 700 lira). If these don't strike your fancy, check out Salon IKSV or Blind, live-music venues about 20 minutes away by taxi or bus, with lineups as global and diverse as Babylon's.
For those with a sweet tooth, no visit to Istanbul is complete without baklava, the sweet, syrupy pastry made with layers of flaky dough. Karakoy Gulluoglu, a beloved bakery that opened in 1949, sells a range of these pastries, including chocolate or cold baklava, in a sleek, contemporary space. Next door is another popular cafe, Mahizer Baklava Karakoy, where you can find creative delights, such as a baklava ice cream sandwich, a Turkish variation on tres leches cake called trilece and fig pudding. Grab a Turkish tea or coffee and a selection of treats from both bakeries and walk over to the waterfront to taste and compare them side by side. Or if you prefer a savoury breakfast, Mahizer offers the classic Turkish kahvalti with menemen, crispy borek, fried halloumi and a selection of spreads.
10am | Escape to the islands
Take the tram or the bus to the Kabatas ferry terminal to catch a ride to one of the Princes' Islands in the Sea of Marmara southeast of the city, a preferred getaway area for locals (one-way ticket, 88.38 lira). During the 90-minute boat ride, you might catch sight of frolicking dolphins. The four inhabited islands are rich with foliage, scenic overlooks and beaches. Motorised vehicles are banned, so visitors move around on foot, by bicycle or by electric shuttle. The largest and busiest island, Buyukada, has plenty of restaurants, boutiques, coffee and ice cream shops, and bike rental operators, and is famous for its elegant Ottoman-era mansions. Stop for a scoop at the quirky Buyukada Sekercisi Candy Island Cafe Patisserie, and dine on a broad selection of seafood dishes like grilled salmon on a stick or shrimp casserole as well as Turkish favorites like crispy pastries with melted cheese or eggplants with tomatoes at the Secret Garden Restaurant (dinner for two, about 2,500 lira).
