01-08-2025
I ditched New York City for upstate and found hundreds of vineyards, NASCAR racing experiences & world famous waterfalls
STANDING on Hurricane Deck with water whipping around me and Niagara Falls thundering behind, I'm experiencing a different side of New York.
Most visitors cram into Manhattan, but New York City takes up just 0.56 per cent of the entire state.
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With water whipping around me and Niagara Falls thundering behind, I'm experiencing a different side of New York
Credit: New York State Department of Economic Development (NYSDED)
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Watkins Glen is a charming village that also hides a legendary race track where Formula 1 once raced - and I took a thrilling ride in the pace car
Credit: Alice Penwill
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Buffalo is the gateway to Niagara Falls, just a short drive away
Credit: Getty
Beyond the concrete jungle of America's most populated city lie vineyards, breweries, lakes, a whole lot of classic US charm and, of course, those famous falls.
Upstate New York, despite its high-end reputation, is also much kinder on your wallet.
The cost of two days in the city is equivalent to about six days outside when it comes to accommodation, dining and activities.
My journey began in Syracuse, in the heart of the Finger Lakes region — a lush green area known for its scenic beauty and more than 1,600 vineyards.
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Without much persuasion, I stopped at a few to sample the local produce — I had a tipple at Anyela's vineyard and the Beak & Skiff brewery, which had very tasty ciders.
A half-hour drive away is Skaneateles (pronounced skinny atlas), one of the region's most exclusive spots.
Lake Skaneateles is said to be the cleanest in the world, but what really stands out is the shorefront, which is full of sprawling manors with sweeping lawns, guest houses and boat garages.
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Just south of Syracuse lies Watkins Glen, which looks like a Hallmark movie set until you hear the roar of engines.
The charming village is home to the Watkins Glen International track, where Formula 1 raced for 20 consecutive years from 1961 to 1980 before Nascar took over.
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I had a ride in the back of a pace car for a speedy lap (in motorsport, a pace car leads the racers in warm-up laps).
And I saw a bright yellow American school bus — full of grinning students — tear around, too. Turns out that anyone can give it a try.
You can even take your own car, or bus, for a spin.
Rochester, a mid-sized city on the southern shore of
These days, it's better known for the Strong National Museum of Play, a huge, hands-on museum dedicated to toys, games and childhood.
Here, I attempted (and failed) to beat other players at
From there, I headed west to my final, and favourite, stop: Buffalo.
Sitting where the Buffalo River meets Lake Erie, it proved that the state's 61 cities beyond NYC are also well worth exploring.
Screams of delight
I followed the riverfront past guided missile cruiser USS Little Rock, through Veterans Memorial Park, and on past the restored 1920s carousel at Canalside, where families queued for a ride.
The standout spot, though, was RiverWorks — a creative reinvention of old grain silos, now home to ziplines, climbing walls, a big wheel, kayaking and lively bars.
Buffalo is also the gateway to
I arrived at night to see the illuminations, a spectacle in itself.
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Naval history fans will love taking a look at the guided missile cruiser USS Little Rock
Credit: Getty
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Strong National Museum of Play, a huge, hands-on museum dedicated to toys, games and childhood
Credit: New York State Department of Economic Development (NYSDED)
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The Sun's Alice Penwill gets a close-up view of the Niagara Fall
Credit: Alice Penwill
But at that point I didn't quite grasp the full power of the famous waterfalls.
The next day, I saw them in all their glory. Looking like a blue penguin in my oversized anorak, I boarded the Maid Of The Mist tourist boat to get closer to the thundering cascade.
At first, the boat bobs along at a glacial pace. Then, after a light spray of water, the full force of the falls hits.
Picture screams of delight, anoraks flapping and thousands of gallons of water crashing into the river below.
If you want to feel it properly, head to the top deck. Prefer to stay dry? Stick to the lower level.
The boat tour is a must — and so is the Cave Of The Winds.
This attraction is a series of wooden walkways leading right to the base of Niagara's Bridal Veil Falls and up to the Hurricane Deck, where the water spray slams sideways and where standing still is a feat in itself.
I managed to hold my pose just long enough for a photo, before stumbling away, soaked and buzzing with adrenaline.
The Big Apple is a bucket-list must, of course, but don't forget to take a bite out of the rest of New York State, too.
GO: NEW YORK STATE
STAYING/GETTING THERE:
An 11-night fly-drive tour of New York State costs from £2,770pp based on two sharing, including car hire, Top Of The Rock Observation Deck in NYC, Niagara Falls Tour and return flights departing Heathrow on April 27 2026.
See
OUT & ABOUT:
For Watkins Glen International see
The Strong National Museum of Play costs $25 (£18.45).
See
Maid of the Mist tickets are $30.25 (£22.33) and the Cave of the Winds costs $23 (£17.12) at
MORE INFO:
For New York State see
