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BBC News
3 days ago
- BBC News
Who drank all the matcha? How tourism drained a Japanese town
In Uji, Japan's historic matcha capital, demand for premium green tea is outpacing supply. As tourists scramble for tins, locals fear that tradition may be getting diluted. 10:00 is an important time in Uji, Japan. It's when the matcha shops open. The town is just a half hour train ride from Kyoto and is world-renowned for matcha, the pulverised green tea traditionally frothed with hot water. Just before the hour, I stroll off the subway and head straight to nearby Nakamura Tokichi Honten; once the supplier of tea to the emperor and now arguably the most prestigious matcha purveyor in Japan. I've heard securing a table at their cafe can be difficult, so I grow nervous as two girls scamper ahead of me. The cafe hasn't officially opened yet, so I grab a numbered ticket to reserve a spot. Somehow there are already 35 people ahead of me in line. While I wait, I stroll through the shop and browse the many matcha products lining the shelves – ice creams, confections, even matcha-infused noodles. But I'm looking for some of the actual stuff: matcha powder. I notice a lady with a basket full of green tins, and a commotion breaks out in the corner. A diminutive Japanese store worker tries to restock a shelf, but she barely places a tin down before it is eagerly snatched up in the throng of tourists. She is swarmed on all sides by grabby arms, and some people even reach directly into her basket to snag canisters of the precious powder. She yells out in Japanese, but her message is lost on the foreign ears surrounding her. Realising these are the few matcha tins left in the shop, I reach into the crowd to wrap my fingers around a white canister. Someone grabs my hand, then grunts and lets go. A second later, a tall woman with an American accent yells out, "It's gone. All the matcha's gone." My guess is that it's not past 10:05. I join the queue to pay for my 30g tin, not knowing exactly what I've grabbed or how much it costs. I surmise that I didn't get the more potent of matchas, as others have tins of varying shades of green. I watch enviously as a man in the front of the line has 30 or so tins sealed in a tax-free plastic bag. In a German accent he says, "I can't believe I just spent 250 euros on tea." He seems proud. Unlike many of the other prestigious tea purveyors in Uji, Nakamura Tokichi has not imposed a limit on the number of matcha tins visitors can buy. I spend the rest of the morning wandering around town, picking up whatever is still available here and there. Tsujirihei Honten, another prestigious brand established in 1860, advertises 20 or so types of matcha, but only has three or four varieties on offer. Even with a purchase limit, most of the stores in Uji, the matcha capital of the world, are sold out. Rich with antioxidants and with a more tempered caffeine boost, matcha has seen skyrocketing demand around the world. Japan's Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries reports that 4,176 tons of matcha were produced in 2023, a threefold increase since 2010. Ballooning in parallel is Japan's tourism industry: 2024 saw nearly 37 million tourists, a record high. Market reports show that the beverage's popularity is largely attributed to its health benefits, and the grinch-green drinks and desserts also play well on social media. There's no singular grading system for matcha, but many shops will broadly categorise their powders as ceremonial, premium or culinary. Ceremonial matchas are typically made from the newest leaves of the season and are valued for their rich, almost umami flavour, with no bitterness. On the other end of the matcha-tasting spectrum is culinary matcha, which tends to be coarser and has a slight bitter taste – better suited for saccharine confections. Falling in between the two are premium or daily use grades, which are versatile in use. Tomomi Hisaki, general manager at the Tsujirihei flagship store, says that international visitors have a particular proclivity for top-grade ceremonial matchas and often buy stashes in bulk. But she says supply cannot keep up with demand. "High-grade Uji matcha is not something that can be mass-produced in the first place," she says. For one, tea leaves destined for ceremonial matcha are grown in the shade, as the darkness produces a richer, more umami and astringent flavour. "However, if you cover it, it will not be able to photosynthesize, so it will not grow, and the harvest will be small," she says. Another bottleneck in production, Hisaki explains, is the traditional stone mills. These mills produce a particularly fine powder, but each mill can only yield about 400g of tea after eight hours – enough for 13 tins. Matcha production could be boosted by planting more tea farms, Hisaki says, but it would take years for current investments to reach store shelves. This scarcity of Uji-made ceremonial matcha fosters a sense of exclusivity, which further fuels the zeal of tourists. Hisaki says that since the start of the year, their store will sell a month's supply of matcha powder in a single day. And if the frenzy continues, she says, tea ceremony instructors, temples and shrines could have difficulty securing supply. "We have heard reports of ceremonial matcha being used for lattes and smoothies, which can reduce the availability of high-quality matcha for those who wish to enjoy it in its traditional form," says Simona Suzuki, president of the Global Japanese Tea Association. "Our hope is that foreign tourists will consider the intended use when purchasing matcha." I kept thinking back to the man at the front of the line and those like him, hoarding hundreds of dollars' worth of matcha. What could one possibly do with so much of the finest quality tea? I don't know that man, but I suspect he wasn't buying the matcha for tea ceremonies. I suspect that like me, he and the folks back home enjoy diluting the beverage with milk and sugar in the form of a matcha latte, maybe even baking a batch of cookies. I also suspect that most folks, like me, don't have a refined enough palate to distinguish between the top tiers of matcha. Plus, the grassy green product loses its freshness after sitting in a pantry for months. Yet I see that when we're hundreds of miles from home and the opportunity arises, it can be all too tempting to drop our polite inhibitions and allow greed to overtake our graces. How many tins would I have taken, given the opportunity? "I think it's wonderful that the matcha of Japan is spreading," says Hisaki, "I would like more people to enjoy it for health, tea ceremonies and cultural inheritance." But she urges visitors not to hoard supplies for resale. More like this:• The women saving Japan's vanishing cuisine• The eight Asian sauces to keep in your pantry• How the bullet train transformed Japan Shopping in Uji became more stressful than I anticipated, as I spent my time wondering if I should be trying to snag the last remaining tins of matcha in town. But even if visitors miss out on taking home a stash of ceremonial matcha, there's no shortage of other products to enjoy. Suzuki hopes that travellers will turn an eye toward other teas such as vibrant senchas or earthy gyokuros. There's also hojicha, the roasted cousin to matcha that tastes more of nuts and chocolate than chlorophyll, and – in my opinion – tastier than matcha. Despite the shortage of matcha powder, Uji is still like a tea-themed park with an endless diversity of products. At Nakamura Tokichi I order a tea-infused soba noodle and matcha parfait, and from souvenir shops I purchase matcha fettuccine and curry. Eateries dish up matcha gyozas, takoyaki and ramen. At Tsujirihei, I purchase a bag of sweetened matcha powder, a product designed to be easily dissolved in water – ideal for matcha lattes or other sweet drinks. I'm sipping on this sort of instant matcha latte now, enlivened by its verdant greenness and soothed by its warmth. Sure, this drink wasn't served to the emperor, but it suits my purposes just fine. -- For more Travel stories from the BBC, follow us on Facebook, X and Instagram.
Buzz Feed
24-04-2025
- Health
- Buzz Feed
11 Tatcha Products That Will Earn A Permanent Spot On Your Vanity
We hope you love our recommendations! Some may have been sent as samples, but all were independently selected by our editors. Just FYI, BuzzFeed and its publishing partners may collect a share of sales and/or other compensation from the links on this page. They also will look sooo cute — just look at all that pastel packaging. 1. The Water Cream that feels lightweight, but make no mistake — it works overtime to hydrate the skin. Packed with multi-weight glycerin, it helps to improve the skin's moisture barrier, while ingredients like wild rose and a BHA alternative help to minimize the look of pores. If your skin leans towards the oilier side, this is the moisturizer for you. Tatcha Promising reviews:"Best. Moisturizer. Ever. Never pills; it feels so good when put on the skin. Awesome fragrance. Ugh I just wanna buy it again already." — Savannah "I have oily sensitive skin with visible pores. This improved my skin the same week I started using it. The water cream is light but still packed with moisture without feeling heavy. My skin is looking and feeling better than it ever has. This is also great under makeup." — Tina 2. The Rice Wash, because having dry skin doesn't mean you can't use a foaming face wash. While this cleanser reaches deep to get gunk out of pores, it also helps moisturize the skin with hyaluronic acid and red algae. Tatcha Promising review:"I love the gentle but thorough cleanse of the Rice Wash by Tatcha. It goes on my damp face pleasantly, then I add a splash of warm water to work up a light lather. Never drying, so refreshing. I try other morning cleansers but frequently return to Tatcha. All of their products that I have purchased have been marvelous, a wise investment in the skin we wear every day." — Nancy 3. The Essence so that you can flood the skin with hydration each and every day. This is a staple in my vanity because it's as light as water, but sinks deep into the skin to create a dewy, glass-like glow. This essence will be the first step in your skincare routine to help moisturize with Okinawa algae and help boost antioxidant protection with Uji green tea. Tatcha Promising review:"My skin has never looked and felt better. I have been using Tatcha products since Christmas morning and will continue to do so! The Essence feels like water but makes my skin plump and glow. It allows the next set of products to soak in and actually work!" — Lisa 4. The Violet-C Radiance Mask, because it is my ride or die mask whenever I need an instant boost in glow. This mask has fast-acting and long-lasting vitamin C inside to instantly boost radiance and help sustain it over time. Plus, AHAs help to gently exfoliate the skin and create a fresh dewy glow. Tatcha 5. The Silk Serum so you can kiss redness and loss of firmness goodbye. While this serum's retinol alternative helps to plump the skin and relieve acne, firming and hydrating properties (hi, silk proteins and diglucosyl gallic acid) help fortify the skin and keep your moisture barrier in check. Tatcha Promising review:"This is one of the best products I've tried over the years. The cream is light and gets absorbed by the skin leaving it smooth like an ice rink. In my opinion and experience, having tried some major high priced brands, Tatcha is one of the best products." — Sylvia 6. The Kissu Lip Mask, because lip care is just as important as skincare! This mask has Japanese peach extract to help soothe cracked lips and biomimetic squalane to help hydrate. Its texture is thicc and works great as an overnight lip treatment, but you can totally layer it on lightly throughout the day for smooth lips 24/7. Tatcha Promising review:"It feels as if I have tried every lip balm and lip mask on the market and this one comes out on top again and again. It is very moisturizing without being sticky. It feels very comfortable on the lips and stays on for quite some time. It also provides a nice shine and polished look. This is, hands down, my favorite lip balm on the market." — Sandra 7. The Silk Canvas is the bee's knees if you want a putty-like primer to minimize oil and the appearance of pores while helping keep your skin hydrated. OK, that might sound counterintuitive — shouldn't mattifying products dry out the skin? Not this one. This is packed with silk extracts to help hydrate the skin while it creates a velvety canvas for makeup application. 8. The Rice Polish, which is one of the best exfoliators I have ever used since it's super kind to my sensitive skin. This polish combines both physical and enzymatic exfoliation: it physically buffs the skin with Japanese rice bran, while enzymatically eats away at pore gunk and leftover dead skin cells with papaya enzymes. The Rice Polish dispenses in a powder form; all you have to do is mix it with a bit of water to get a fresh concoction each time you exfoliate. Tatcha Promising review:"My very favorite Tatcha product! I've told all my friends and family about this AMAZING product. It makes your skin feel like glass; it's so soothing and luxurious; buy this product now!" — Margaret 9. The Silk Powder, because powders are back, y'all — but using some powders on already-dry skin can lead to more dryness. This one aims to solve that woe, as it's packed with silk extracts to help nourish the skin. Plus, it has anti-pollution and blue light protective ingredients to help shield the skin from hydration-stealing environmental stressors. Oh, and if you're still after a radiant finish even with the matte skin trend on the rise, you're in luck — this has Japanese pearl powder to cast a veil of glow without looking shiny. Tatcha Promising review:"Absolutely love the silk powder. It is velvety smooth, and provides a perfect smoothing 'blur' to the skin after application. Use it every day to set my foundation! Also purchased the powder brush to apply the powder, and it is a gorgeous, soft-bristled pillowy brush that distributes the powder perfectly and seamlessly." — Stacey 10. The Luminous Dewy Skin Mist so that you can upkeep your moisture levels from sun up 'til sun down. This mist is great for prepping the skin for skincare, setting makeup, or refreshing your glow throughout the day. With hydrating ingredients like red algae, hyaluronic acid, and Japanese Camellia oil, you can feel free to spritz this on allllll day long. Tatcha Promising review:"This is the best facial mist! After applying foundation, I use it as a setting spray to give a very polished look! My foundation has a matte finish, but I love how it gives such a nice dewy appearance. Goes on perfectly, super fine mist! I also use it as a makeup refresher during the workday! Love it!!" — Erin 11. And The Brightening Eye Cream that's an all-in-one when it comes to brightening, de-puffing, and moisturizing the undereye area. This is packed with vitamin C to help lighten the appearance of dark circles, plus Japanese plum to help smooth the skin and reduce puffiness.
