2 days ago
Wine with Leslie: Fizzy business for your August evenings with these pocket-friendly sips
The wine world is hurting, with sales down in all relevant markets (especially China, which is down to 2006 levels).
Mention anything about the peer-reviewed studies which have consistently shown that alcohol in moderation can have some health benefits, and you will be pointed to the WHO Lancet piece from 2023, which declared that no level of alcohol consumption is safe.
The likes of me can shout all they want about this; no politician is going to take up my cause, and reduce excise to put us in line with our EU counterparts (except maybe that fella in the cap from Kerry).
I'm not sure if this is good news, but the downturn in sales means that bulk wine has never been cheaper, so supermarket wines will continue to be sold close to the government minimum price of around €8 per bottle. Will they taste good, however?
Personally, I believe that minimum pricing is a tax on the poor and will have little impact on the health of the nation. For what it's worth, the economist Christopher Snowden agrees with me (his Substack is free and worth following).
The gastronomic and social benefits of moderate consumption are what I should focus on, it's more solid ground. A glass of fizz or rosé on a warm August evening with a salad of ripe tomatoes with grilled haloumi, aubergines and free-range pork from the barbecue has to be beneficial to health and well-being...
With this in mind all of the wines recommended today represent value and will at least keep your bank account healthy.
Breath of Paradise, Côtes de Provence Rosé 2024 €11.99
Breath of Paradise, Côtes de Provence Rosé 2024 €11.99
Lidl
Look familiar? It is of course a nod to Whispering Angel (€26).
Tasting the two together, the WA is a little fuller on the palate and a little finer, but Breath of P. is a similar creature with soft raspberry fruits and more citrus acidity on the finish (no bad thing).
Also in Lidl is the candy and berry scented Quarzose rosé for just €9.
Faustino Rivero Ulecia Albariño, Rias Baixas, Spain €16
Faustino Rivero Ulecia Albariño, Rias Baixas, Spain €16
Tesco
I don't mention Tesco all that often, so I am happy to recommend this Alabriño from Rias Baixas, a small region in northwestern Spain which has nonetheless become one of Ireland's most popular wines.
The price of albariño grapes has shot-up due to demand recently, so this is good value.
Pleasingly aromatic with floral peach and pear aromas, a textured palate and balancing citrus freshness
Albert de Conti Pet-Nat, Bergerac, France
Albert de Conti Pet-Nat, Bergerac, France - €18.50 - €22
JJ O'Driscolls; L'Atitude 51; Bradleys; Green Man Wines; Mitchells; Le Caveau
This excellent pet-nat is on offer in JJ O'Driscolls this month at a bargain price.
Organic, biodynamic and part of the new wave of young natural/organic producers revitalising the industry.
Floral lemon aromas, leesy and creamy pear fruits on the palate with crisp citrus acidity on the finish. Joyous.
Beer of the Week
To Øl Whirl Domination India Pale Ale
To Øl Whirl Domination India Pale Ale, Denmark, 6.2% ABV, 440ml €3.95
Bradleys; O'Briens; Independents;
Denmark's To Øl are 15 years old this year and I've yet to taste a bad beer from this great Independent. This was the first IPA to be brewed in their new brewhouse and is double dry-hopped.
Herbal, tangerine and citrus aromas; creamy orange-split ice cream notes on first sip before the malt kicks in, rounded and fruity with a hop-driven finish.
