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Hotel review: Umana, Bali
Hotel review: Umana, Bali

Daily Mail​

time2 days ago

  • Daily Mail​

Hotel review: Umana, Bali

Arriving at Umana Bali, you step out of the car to be greeted by the booming sound of a gong. From that moment, it's clear that this stay will be transcendent. Once the echoes of the gong dies down, each guest has a frangipani flower tucked behind their ear and is given a bracelet of three interwoven threads that represent the Balinese Hindu beliefs (white for the afterlife, red for creativity and black for reservation, in case you were wondering). The impressive lobby combines chic and glossy contemporary interiors with design touches that nod to Bali's heritage – carved stone dragons, a handblown glass chandelier inspired by the movements of the traditional Legong fan dance and a wooden lattice above echoing looms used by indigenous Balinese Aga people to weave. The private infinity pool and hot tub that comes with each Villa at Umana Bali This oasis is situated on the Bukit Peninsula, and is worlds away from the stereotypical hubbub of places like Ubud or the Gili Islands that might come to mind when Bali is mentioned. It feels calm, private and exclusive, but with the spirituality of the local community and traditions at its heart. You couldn't ask for a more flawless blend of high-end luxury, blissed out tropical break and local culture than is offered at here. Rooms and facilities Umana's name comes from the Balinese word uma, or rice paddies, and the layout of the property's 72 villas perched on cliffs overlooking Melasti Beach echoes this. The location of the resort means the views from villas are spectacular, with unreal sunsets making for fantastic Instagram fodder. While they are all relatively close together, they each offer total privacy, like you're alone in your own little jungle garden. Step out of bed and slip straight into your pool In terms of sizes they range from one bedroom to three bedroom – with the one bedrooms starting at a whopping 3,100 sq ft. There is a dining space, a living area, an absolutely massive master bathroom filled with gorgeous Javanese marble and a bathtub so deep you float in it, a guest bathroom and a walk-in wardrobe/dressing area. But the real jewel in the crown is the bedroom; sliding doors open to your own private 10 metre infinity pool overlooking the sea or jungle, accessorised with your own private hot tub at the side. The giant bathtub found in each villa Stepping out of bed in the morning, opening the curtains before sliding straight into the pool is a rarity that feels like nothing else. The vibe is indoor-outdoor, with a patio, gazebo, huge daybed, lounge chairs and outdoor dining area. A word of warning – don't leave your doors open. The monkeys in the area know there's food in your villa, and they will take it if you don't keep the doors shut when you're out! Food and drink The food here is just another way in which Umana really shines the light on their heritage. While there are of course gorgeous options for Western tastes, I really encourage you to dip your toes in the exquisite South-East Asian food. When it's local dishes cooked in the area of their origin it's always going to be more delicious (and less boring) than toast and eggs. Rijsttafel featuring a variety of dishes including chicken sate and an addictive green bean salad There are a few options for dining. Pad Pool Bar is relaxed and ideal for a more chilled lunch (with a lovely view), Mer Lounge offers coffee, lemongrass brews, Balinese wine-tasting (which are all delicious) and snacks, and Commune is the all-day dining option. For breakfast there is both a buffet and a la carte options, with everything you could possibly want at top notch standards. For lunch and dinner highlights include local favourites like nasi goreng (Indonesian fried rice), an incredible iteration of gado gado (a salad with crunchy veg, crispy fried tempeh and boiled eggs in a peanut sauce) and sate lilit (minced chicken infused with kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass, chilli, ginger, galangal and turmeric and cooked over hot coals). A must-try is the rijsttafel – originating from the Dutch during a colonial period in Indonesia, it's a feast of lots of small flavoursome dishes served with rice, and truly not to be missed. Sunset at Oliverra Oliverra, sat atop the corner of the resort and offering a cinematic view of Melasti beach is a showstopper. Mediterranean-inspired with utterly delectable dishes, this feels more like an 'occasion' restaurant. I highly recommend taking advantage of the in-room dining back at your villa though. A real highlight was the floating breakfast; a giant tray containing your order, along with accoutrements like fruit, conserves and pastries arrives on the surface of your pool like magic. It looks incredible, and it's lovely to eat while sat in the water – though be warned it is not the most practical breakfast option! The floating breakfast is particularly Instagram-friendly Eighty per-cent of the produce is sourced from local farms, and they even have a hydroponic herb and vegetable garden for the freshest food. Hotel Highlights The service is outstanding. Each villa is assigned a personal concierge who is merely a Whatsapp message away, from things as simple as requests for extra water to 'help a monkey stole my phone charger' (which actually happened to another guest while I was there). You will also be thoroughly spoiled. Villas have sandals woven from pandan fibres and chic knitted bags for use during your stay, which came in incredibly handy. Incense is provided – I highly recommend lighting yours while having a bath or taking outside to the hot tub, paired with a glass of wine. A thermos of tea, snacks and gifts are left out for you at turndown, so when returning after dinner ready to flop you have one last treat. Treatment rooms at the Lohma Spa The Lohma Spa is a peaceful sanctum for a proper recharge, as you'd expect, with an outdoor pool and hot and cold plunge pools. There's a yoga pavilion (personally I'd rather sunbathe), sauna, steam room as well as the obvious treatment rooms. There's also a gym, if you're one of those people. Importantly, there's also a kid's club from 9am to 5pm where four to 12 year-olds can have their own fun – while you get to have your own. There's also a babysitting service available if you'd like to have a peaceful dinner at a more grown-up time. Sunset over the rice paddy-inspired resort What to do nearby Cooking classes take place daily, with recipes to take home and finishing with a superb lunch (if I do say so myself). Balinese coffee tastings alongside tastings of the Balinese spirit Arak are available too, and the wine tasting in the cellar is a highly enjoyable hour. If you manage to drag yourself away from your beautiful villa there are some brilliant ways to dive into local traditions too. You can visit local holy temples for blessings, have a soul cleansing ritual at a temple in a bat cave (which was stunning) or watch a traditional Kecak dance at the outdoor amphitheatre next to Melasti beach. There are chances to do boat trips for snorkelling (we saw dolphins), or village walks where a local takes you round the market, shows you the beautiful architecture and feeds you traditional treats. None of these activities feel in any way touristy. Which despite being one, you don't always want to feel. The verdict There's no question this is unrivalled luxury – but most importantly Umana feels authentic, genuine and true to its location at heart. Prices start from £429 per night.

A hotel room in Bali that's bigger than the average Aussie home
A hotel room in Bali that's bigger than the average Aussie home

West Australian

time22-06-2025

  • West Australian

A hotel room in Bali that's bigger than the average Aussie home

In the 1980s, two different forms of luxury accommodation surfaced in Bali: internationally branded five-star resorts; and villas — private walled homes with tropical gardens, private pools and in-house staff. About 20 years ago, investors began combining the two in super-luxury estates where every guest stays in a private villa while also having at their fingertips all the amenities of a five-star resort. Well-known examples include the Four Seasons on the beachfront at Jimbaran Bay and Aman Nusa, now called Aman Villas, which overlooks an 18-hole golf course in Nusa Dua. However, relatively few know of Umana Bali on the Bukit Peninsula on Bali's south coast. Originally a Banyan Tree Hotel, the Umana was acquired and renovated in 2023 by LXR Hotels & Resorts, a 'soft brand' of the Hilton group. In hotel speak, this refers to a brand that does not conform to specific decor or operations and is independent in form, function and spirit. Set on a 70m high clifftop overlooking the Pacific Ocean and a white-sand beach, Umana Bali, a villa-only resort, ticks all the boxes that make LXR properties unique. Plus, it has one of the largest standard hotel room sizes in the world. Umana Bali has 72 one, two and three-bedroom villas. The smallest, which I stayed in, is set on a 403sqm walled plot. Most hotel villas only have plunge pools, but here you get a 41sqm ocean-facing infinity-edge pool big enough to do laps in. There is also a jet pool adjoining the day pavilion with an outdoor sofa, reflective ponds and tropical plants. The indoor space measures 288sqm — 13 per cent more floor space than the national average for new detached houses in Australia. T he bathroom is bigger than most hotel rooms; a vast marble chamber with a two-person bathtub set in a glass enclosure edged by a rock garden with a bas-relief on the wall. The main bedroom has sliding glass doors that open directly into the pool. Waking up in the morning and drawing the curtains to Pacific Ocean views is a rock-star experience. But what I appreciated most was the combined living and dining room with an L-shaped sofa, coffee table, matching armchairs and a big, beautiful rug. In 25 years of travel writing, I have never seen a full-size living room in the standard room category of a hotel. Still, it pales in comparison to what awaits guests at the 1200sqm three-bedroom Umana Pool Villa. The living room is so big they had to put in a baby grand piano to consume some negative space. All five-star hotels in Bali put on breakfast buffets fit for kings, and Commune, Umana's breakfast venue, is no exception. Set inside a traditional Balinese building with floor-to-ceiling windows that bring in 180-degree ocean views, it is an Asian-themed restaurant, and the menu reflects that, with ramen, bakso (an Indonesian soup) and sushi stations. But it also has all your standard Western or American breakfast staples and a few extravagant options, like baby lobster on sourdough toast with caviar. The French toast is thick, layered in maple syrup, and comes with two scoops of mascarpone cream on the side. Commune is one of five F&B venues in the hotel. The signature is Olivera, a fine-dining Mediterranean restaurant. You can sit inside, in a big white modern space, or grab a table on the balcony. I had the set four-course meal but they served me seven courses, including four different kinds of amuse bouches, a world-class lobster bisque, a perfectly grilled striploin steak with red wine jus, finished with a slice of baked cream cheesecake. Normally, when I try a set menu at hotel restaurants in Bali, it's hit-and-miss. Most dishes are good but there are always one or two I don't eat. Not here. Everything was spot on. Kudos to the chef. + Ian Neubauer was a guest of LXR Hotels & Resorts. They have not influenced this story, or read it before publication. + Umana Bali is on the clifftops of the Bukit Peninsula, overlooking Melasti Beach on Bali's south coast, a 35-minute drive from the international airport. At the time of writing in May, rates at hotel booking sites for a one-bedroom villa with breakfast started at $1140 per night and climbed to $6600 for the three-bedroom villa. Discounts are offered if you book directly with the hotel. + The most current Australian Bureau of Statistics figures show that in 2021-22, the average floor area of new houses in Australia was 232.3sqm.

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