23-04-2025
- Entertainment
- San Francisco Chronicle
New S.F. bistro mixes Midwestern comfort food with vinyl DJs
A new San Francisco bistro is bringing together Midwestern comfort foods and the hip aesthetic of Japanese listening bars under one roof in the Mission District.
Side A will open on May 1 at 2814 19th St., the former home of longtime brunch favorite Universal Cafe. The restaurant is the first joint venture for couple Caroline and Parker Brown, who have, respectively, worked in the music and restaurant industries. He was most recently the chef de cuisine at Aphotic, the dark, Michelin-starred seafood temple in SoMa which closed last winter (but may resurface in Jackson Square).
Parker, who grew up eating kspinach-artichoke dip with his family, says that while the kitchen will use choice Bay Area produce, dishes will definitely have Midwestern heartiness. 'It's going to be more of a pork chops and applesauce and less of an avocado toast thing,' Parker said.
He called the short rib Parisian gnocchi his 'ode to the Chicago beef sandwich.' The puffy pasta bites come in a bowl with morsels of beef and a giardiniera, briny Italian pickles. It has undergone refinements and variations over the years, but he still takes pride in it being the first dish he ever put on a menu as a sous chef. 'It's near and dear to my heart,' he said.
Other dishes may include classic steaks and fried chicken cutlets topped with chicories and served with a honey mustard sauce. A cheeseburger will feature a thick patty, Tomales Farmstead Kenne cheese and red onion jam on an Acme sesame bun. A generous scrape of bone marrow adds plenty of richness. Not every dish will be so rich, however. Vegetarian dishes include eggplant with french lentils and topped with pickled summer squash. The 'garbage' salad is a mix of lettuce, pork belly confit, feta and dilly beans tossed with a wine vinaigrette. It comes topped with a quartered hard-boiled egg.
Though menu prices weren't yet determined, the Browns say affordability is one of the goals for Side A. 'It allows diners to become regulars and eat here more than once,' Caroline said.
Parker was born in Milwaukee, so the bar will always keep bottles of Miller High Life, along with a selection of seven other beers. There will also be an emphasis on wines from California and Italy, with a list of about 40 selected by beverage partner Paul Chung. Non-alcoholic beverages will include classic Arnold Palmers and lemonades incorporating house-made shrubs.
The bar counter will be active all day long on weekdays. The Coffee Movement, one of the Bay Area's top destinations for coffee, will be serving drinks on weekday mornings, as well as homemade doughnuts.
Landing a lease for the Universal Cafe space is a full circle moment for the Browns. Caroline moved to San Francisco in 2017, and her first job in the city was nearby. The popular restaurant's crowd of regulars and warmth reminded her of her native Chicago. 'I knew this was the type of restaurant we wanted to open someday,' she said.
The Browns had inquired about the space in 2021 and in 2023 with no luck. It wasn't until this year that a series of connections helped them to land in space. 'It's very special to do Side A here,' she said.
The space got a revamp led by neighboring designers Studio Ahead. The result is a clean, sleek look that maintains the same feel as the former tenant, with plenty of natural light. Caroline pointed to some of the wood cuts which remain in place, though some have been used to line the bottom of the bar. Metal shop 280 West made some of the new metal design pieces inside the dining room.
The clean white marble tables and bartop will also remain in place. Side A's dining room can seat 28 inside plus eight outside. Bar seating will be walk-in only and include 11 chairs.
The chic look sets the stage for the musical programming. Caroline has been a DJ since she moved to San Francisco, though the Browns have collected records since they met. Caroline will pull from their library, which includes titles picked up on trips to England, Italy and Mexico. Expect to hear soul, funk and disco grooves with some jazz and rock and roll mixed in during cafe and dinner service.
'It's all to remain authentic and really feel like you're at a dinner party in our home,' Caroline said. She added that there are plans to bring in DJs on the weekends.
As cool as all of this may sound, the Browns want the vibe to be down-to-earth and welcoming.
'We're Midwesterners, man. We're going to give you a hug no matter how you're dressed,' Parker said.
Side A. 2814 19th St., Opening May 1. 4 p.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Monday, 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Thursday, 4 p.m.-12 a.m. Friday-Saturday.
