3 days ago
Japan Uncovered #4: Snow shapes life in agricultural rich Minamiuonuma in Niigata Pref.
Coordinators for international relations from around the world are responsible for international exchange activities across Japan. In this series, they share the charms of the municipalities where they live and work.
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Minamiuonuma is a city where snow and humans coexist in Niigata Prefecture. Located in the heart of Japan's snow country, or as it is officially designated, "gousetsu chitai" (special heavy snowfall region), an average year sees the city covered in two meters or more of snow throughout the winter. The remarkable way life here has been shaped by the snow since long ago was famously depicted by the 18th century merchant, Suzuki Bokushi, in his book, "Snow Country Tales," which became a best-seller. The iconic restored Edo-era townscape that fronts Shiozawa Station, Bokushi-dori street, bears his name. Minamiuonuma's thriving industries, from Japan's top-rated Koshihikari rice and world-famous Hakkaisan sake brewery to its numerous destination ski resorts, are all in one way or another made possible thanks to the snow.
Mount Hakkai offers spectacular views all year round
The stark mountains that flank Minamiuonuma's lush fields on the east and west provide any number of breathtaking vistas, but Hakkaisan, or Mt. Hakkai, with its distinctive jagged eight peaks particularly stands out -- and is the perfect place to experience the breadth of what Minamiuonuma has to offer. The Hakkaisan Ropeway shuttles skiers and snowboarders to some of the city's most premium powder snow runs in the winter, hikers to gorgeous trails during the green season, and anyone who simply wants their breath taken away to jaw-dropping views all year round.
At the base, one will find the Hakkaisanroku Cycling Terminal, offering bicycle rentals of both the mountain and road variety for those who prefer to take in the idyllic rural scenery on two wheels. Finally, there is the eponymous Hakkaisan sake brewery. Tours are available of the brewery's "yukimuro" (natural snow cellar), a fascinating example of how the wisdom of snow country from ages past is still being practically applied today.
Every year, snow accumulated on the mountaintops melts throughout the spring and summer, filters through the soil, and flows down as pure and delicious natural spring water, which is then used to brew the sake and water the rice that Minamiuonuma is known for. Because of this and other unique aspects of the area's climate and geography, the brand of rice grown here, Uonuma Koshihikri, is consistently of exceptionally high quality. It is even regarded as the best in Japan, having received the Japan Grain Inspection Association's highest rating more times than any other variety. The city's three sake breweries, Takachiyo, Aoki, and Hakkaisan, are each renowned as well, locally, domestically, and internationally, respectively. In a big move, Hakkaisan has recently partnered with the Los Angeles Dodgers as the team's official sake.
Try various kinds of 'majidon'
Of course, anyone visiting Minamiuonuma would be remiss not to taste the homegrown Koshihikari rice, and the best way to do so is by eating "majidon" ("don" as in "donburi," or rice bowl and "maji," meaning serious). Majidon is served up seasonally in restaurants throughout the city starting in October, coinciding with the yearly rice harvest. Every shop offers a different take -- some, for example, make a "chirashi-don" topped with sashimi, while others do a "katsu-don" topped with a fried pork cutlet -- a few even serve "kirizai-don," a historical dish unlikely to be found anywhere else that is topped with natto and local pickled vegetables. What all majidon have in common is an extra-large helping of freshly harvested Koshihikari rice. Majidon is available until the end of February, so it's worth trying as many as possible while it lasts.
City information
Population: 51,666 (as of June 2025)
Number of foreign residents: 1,274 (as of June 2025)
Area: 584.55 square kilometers
Convenient access to the city: Urasa Station (Joetsu Shinkansen)
About the writer
Name: Timothy Folsom
Country of origin: United States of America
Years living in Japan: Three
Favorite Japanese foods: Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki and spicy miso ramen
Favorite thing about Japan: Tea ceremony
