Latest news with #ValdOrcia
Telegraph
a day ago
- Telegraph
How to pair the Med's finest coastline with Tuscany's lesser-known gems
Let's just say it wasn't your average Mr Whippy. This gelato came with a sheepish backstory – pecorino-flavoured, and salty. The cheese is everywhere in the little town of Pienza, famed for its pecorino as well as for being the perfectly proportioned Renaissance town. And while I wasn't mad about the ice, the architecture was another thing altogether: pretty palazzos, an octagonal bell tower rising from the cathedral, and quaint alleys filled with the smell of fromaggio. Back in the 15th century, Pope Pius II razed his unremarkable birthplace of Corsignano, enlisting the era's top talent to craft his 'ideal city'. It's perfect. From the walls, Italy's Val d'Orcia rolls out below like the Tuscany of your imagination – cypress-lined lanes, hilltop towns in terracotta tones, abbeys and chapels folded into undulating vineyards and olive groves stretching to Monte Amiata, mainland Italy's highest (and mercifully extinct) volcano. It's no surprise that both town and valley are UNESCO-listed. Or that Franco Zeffirelli filmed some of Romeo and Juliet in Pienza. If you're after brooding romance and real drama, this is the stage – one where you'll want to stay for a multi-act performance. Fortunately, although I was visiting as part of a ship excursion, there was no sprint for the coach for a lengthy transfer back to the ship. This particular cruise add-on came with a bed in the picture itself, at Castello di Velona, a 1,000-year-old hilltop fortress where I could literally soak up the surrounding scenery from the outdoor thermal pools, heated to hot-bath temperature by the volcanic terrain. My Tuscan sojourn was part of a new line of Abercrombie & Kent land extensions for passengers on Crystal cruises called 'By A&K', which I was the first journalist to try. Our voyage had run from Spain's Tarragona to Rome; now I was finishing with a flourish on land, where I could gorge myself on truffles, pecorino cheese, Brunello wine, and those amazing vistas. Other A&K bolt-ons are similarly alluring: depending on the cruise, you could tag on time in the Denali wilderness in Alaska, go tiger spotting and see the Taj Mahal in India, or marvel at the wildebeest migration in the Serengeti after docking in Mombasa. It's a far cry from the frankly disappointing excursions I took in 2023 on the relaunched cruise line, which A&K had bought the year before, promising to be exceptional on both land and sea. 'It's taken this amount of time because you have to prebook all the top guides along with the best hotels and lodges,' Geoffrey Kent, A&K founder and chairman emeritus, told me on our voyage, adding that he'd originally been sceptical about cruising. 'I'm an adventure guy – I jump out of planes and helicopters and I dive, so I thought I'd get bored sitting on a big cruise ship,' he said. 'It's exactly the opposite. And it's very spoiling.' He's not wrong. Crystal, now celebrating its 35th anniversary, leans into the traditions of old-school cruising. There's an art deco-style lounge for tea, dancing and cabaret, a teak promenade deck, a gym, spa, and suites with butler service. And there's oodles of space to be shared by a maximum of 606 guests, with nearly as many staff to look after them. It's polished, calm, and makes a great base from which to explore the Med, whose scenic shores are delivered direct to your (very sizeable) balcony. In Menorca's Mahón, we sailed into one of Europe's largest natural harbours, almost scraping the sides of the Isla del Rey (now home to a Hauser & Wirth gallery) and moored close enough to the distillery at Xoriguer to imagine a faint whiff of juniper. I chose to explore the island by bike, cycling 25km as we passed through low-slung whitewashed villages with bougainvillaea-draped alleys, and up (with battery assistance) to a 14th-century watchtower at Sant Lluís. The narrow lanes, lined with dry stone walls, were blissfully quiet – just our cycling group, the sun, and one unbothered tortoise. The exercise helped justify the food back on the ship. Crystal includes a handful of top restaurants in the price of the cruise, including the only Nobu at sea, where you can order black miso cod, wagyu, lobster tacos, and sake like it's going out of fashion. Drinks are also complimentary: cocktails, spirits and wine are all poured with enthusiasm. More wine awaited at Italy's Cinque Terre. Our boat excursion skirted beneath the improbably stacked vineyards and pastel-coloured houses of the five former fishing villages clinging to the cliffs. We squeezed in a stop in Vernazza for a climb to the old watchtower and enjoyed a glass of crisp Cinque Terre DOC in Riomaggiore, but I would have liked to linger longer on the rugged Ligurian coast. That made our immersion in Tuscany's Val d'Orcia, a three-hour drive from the sights of Rome, even more special. Time slows right down in this valley. I spent four hours over lunch at Podere Il Casale without even trying, admiring the view and learning how to make cheese with Ulisse Branli, who long ago swapped his homeland of Switzerland for Tuscany. 'Thirty years ago, this valley was just for farmers,' he said. 'Then they filmed part of The English Patient at the monastery outside Pienza. Now people come here for the view and our farm-to-table food, including cheese.' Of course, where there's cheese, there's wine. The medieval village of Montalcino is home to Brunello wine; there are even vines and a wine shop within the medieval fortress. I sampled it instead at Podere Le Ripi, trying a handful of biodynamic wines alongside a delicious dinner in the brick winery, built in spiral formation with a roof akin to that of Rome's Panthéon. Founded by Francesco Illy from the coffee clan, this vineyard comes with a terrace view that ought to have its own tasting notes. It's a place to sit and stare a while, not dash through. But that's the point of A&K's new land adventures: to swap box-ticking for something slower, richer and more rooted, part of the perfect hybrid holiday where both land and sea get their moment in the sun. It's the future of luxury cruising – and it has a glass of Brunello (not a pecorino-flavoured gelato) firmly in its hand. Essentials An eight-night cruise on Crystal Serenity costs from £3,800pp, all inclusive, plus flights. Including stops at Civitavecchia (Rome), Mahon and Porto Venere for the Cinque Terre, as well as Monaco for the Grand Prix.
Vogue
22-07-2025
- Vogue
This Characterful Corner of Tuscany Should Be on Your Radar This Summer
Tuscany's sunlit hills have long called to me, but it was during my extended time at Podere Aiole—a newly restored agriturismo in Castiglione d'Orcia—that I truly fell for the quiet allure of the Val d'Orcia. This isn't the Tuscany you think you know; this region, nestled in southern Tuscany within the province of Siena, stretches from the Orcia River southward toward the border with Grosseto. Here, winding roads unfold into vistas so breathtaking, they feel like driving straight into the Emerald City from the Wizard of Oz, its timeless beauty inspiring everyone from Renaissance artists to masters of the silver screen. What truly sets Val d'Orcia apart is its untouched authenticity—and its extraordinary culinary heritage. This is the land of handmade pici pasta, liquid-gold olive oil from producers like Chiarentana, and pecorino so sublime it perfumes entire villages. The world-famous Brunello wine pairs perfectly with cinta senese cured meats, while a slow morning at a cafe in the quaint Castiglione d'Orcia, savoring an espresso and pistachio-filled cornetto, epitomizes what la dolce vita is all about. Beyond the obvious—unforgettable wine and amazing gastronomy—you'll also discover charming antique shops, elevated cheese purveyors, hidden art galleries, and even a few fantastic cocktail bars. 'My love affair with the Val d'Orcia region began in 2003 when I visited Tuscany for a birthday celebration,' says Michael Cioffi, founder and owner of Monteverdi Tuscany. 'A friend suggested a hike up to a hilltop village, Castiglioncello del Trinoro. Upon reaching the village, I was awestruck by the incomparable beauty of the surrounding landscape and instantly felt as though I had stepped out of time. That timelessness was so captivating that it led me to buy, preserve and restore one building, which grew into many more, creating Monteverdi Tuscany.'
Times
17-05-2025
- Times
This spa in the Tuscan hills is perfect for a classy girls' trip
It has just gone 9pm. Silence envelops the Val d'Orcia in Tuscany and complete blackness, save for a shiny fingernail of moon, the quivering Milky Way and, on the horizon, the floodlit hexagonal 12th-century Tentennano Fortress. In my swimsuit and a hugely unflattering (mandatory) bath cap, I'm lolling up to my neck in steaming water. A cool night wind brushes my face, ruffles the branches of the vast larch tree above and sends wisps of steam skittering across the water surface, just visible in the light coming from the dining room of Hotel La Posta at the far end of the pool. I'd like to report that I'm wallowing thoughtfully, musing over how these 38C, mineral-rich waters began as raindrops that fell 18 years ago on the nearby dormant volcano Monte Amiata, at 1,736m the highest peak in southern Tuscany. But instead, I'm excitedly beckoning my friends as they appear wraithlike in the mist, from the doors leading directly from the indoor spa to the outdoor pools, to join me for La Posta's Friday (and Saturday) night ritual of bathing sotto le stelle — under the stars. We've been here less than 48 hours and already we've staked out 'our' spot, a submerged seat at the pool's far end, rechristened 'the gossip bench'. We sit there and natter for hours about everything from With Love, Meghan to Trump's tariffs and on to something that, as the owner of a degree in Italian, constantly pains me: the correct pronunciation of bruschetta (broo-sket-ta, please!). If there's a more classy spot for a girls' weekend I'd love to hear about it. About two hours' drive from Florence airport, but just 30 seconds' walk from the hamlet of Bagno Vignoni, La Posta has three geothermal pools: the scalding one for wallowing, and two at about 28C for (gentle) swimming. They sit in idyllic gardens with panoramic views over a valley that could be used for Tuscan bingo: undulating hills; silvery olive tree; feathery cypresses that unify the landscape while their deep, wide roots interlink to bind the underlying soil and prevent it from being washed away; and the occasional stone farmhouse. A former general store and post office (hence the name) La Posta was transformed into a hotel in the 1950s by the Marcucci family. In 2017 it was taken over by Michil Costa, the flamboyant and intellectual (he's written a book railing against mass tourism) owner of the deluxe, bijou-hotel chain Casa Costa, who enjoyed his childhood holidays there. In March, it reopened after extensive renovations to bring it up to five-star standard. The result is a 35-room hotel with every facility you'd expect, including a spa with Santa Maria Novella products, 24-hour room service, floors of Travertine marble and excellent service. Yet — with Costa a fervent opponent of bland hotel decor — La Posta's also brimming with a quirky charm that makes you feel far more as if you're staying in your eccentric, rich Italian grandmother's country house than some faceless franchise. Walls are decorated with a mishmash of old paintings and faded photographs; surfaces and glass cabinets are crammed with knick-knacks. The library has well-stocked bookcases, packs of cards and board games, including a Tuscan version of Monopoly in which Mayfair's equivalent is Loro Ciuffenna, a — surprise, surprise — charming hillside town. Bedrooms are decorated in rich, jewel tones; mine has shades of teal and scarlet with furniture a mix of stylish mid-century and antique. I'm especially taken with the old-fashioned dressing table in my otherwise high-tech bathroom, where I sit blow-drying my hair before every evening's pre-dinner rendezvous at the Bar Verde. There we enjoy some of the most imaginative cocktails I've ever encountered — think a naked and famous made from Picaflor mezcal, Santoni bitters and yellow chartreuse that manages to be smoky-sophisticated and refreshing. The soundtrack comes from the vast selection of records — from Bob Dylan to Meatloaf to Pavarotti — displayed in old suitcases, which we take turns spinning on the record player. • Read our full guide to Tuscany The stylish La Rocca restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the valley. The chef Matteo Antoniello is a devotee of local produce (when I shamefully ask for a Coke at the poolside bar, I'm gently but fairly reproved: 'Tuscan only!'). There's tagliatelle with ragu made from the local Chianina beef (I also have it in a mouth-melting peposo Tuscan stew topped with chard). Starters consist of platters of tangy wild-boar salamis, while the cheese trolley has creamy, yet forceful, 24-month-old pecorinos and subtle blue cheeses made from buffalo milk. Ovviamente, wines come mainly from the neighbouring regions Montepulciano and Montalcino, birthplace of vino del momento brunello (mains from £24). Breakfast's a fabulous all-you-can-eat buffet of pastries, yoghurts, cold meats and fruit. The temptation afterwards is to head straight to the poolside's padded loungers and that extraordinary view. The waters feeding the pools don't contain hydrogen sulphur, so mercifully there's none of the usual, off-putting, eggy smell. Others around the pool are mainly well-heeled Italians, possibly the only nationality to pull off looking cool in a bathrobe and slippers. Some of them are day guests, having paid for £34 (£38 at weekends) to use the pools but not the indoor spa facilities, which include two saunas, a steam room and a Jacuzzi, where we sit chattering — well, OK, shrieking with laughter, until we're politely reprimanded by the charming staff. • 11 of the best things to do in Tuscany We decide that to justify the next blow-out meal, we need some excursions. The following morning, we head to Bagno Vignoni, an almost parodically picturesque medieval hamlet (population 30), constructed not around a square, but a 59m by 29m steaming-hot aquamarine pool. 'The public's no longer allowed to bathe here because it was becoming a human soup,' our guide, Roberto Guerrini, tells us. Are there ever exceptions? 'When Italy wins the World Cup.' But for millennia before, it was a hub for Etruscans, then Romans, then pilgrims who would halt their 1,200-mile Via Francigena journey between Canterbury and Rome for a much-needed soak. We follow a sliver of their route, to the nearby town of San Quirico, and continue up a steep strade bianche (white road) that peaks at Vignoni Alto, another toytown-perfect hamlet with views over the valley, straight from every A Place in the Sun fantasy. It's home to just two families. Do they get on? Roberto merely rolls his eyes. These tiny hill towns were built by city dwellers fleeing the collapsing Roman empire. Their us-against-the-world mentality, combined with the settlements' isolated locations and high surrounding walls made them key headquarters for the Italian resistance during the Nazi occupation. A plaque on Vignoni Alto's ancient walls pays moving tribute to seven locals killed 'by retreating Germans 'in a pointless massacre' on the eve of the liberation. 'Your lives were destroyed at the moment we thought peace had returned.' • 29 of the best hotels in Tuscany Neighbouring villages bear other reminders of this sad chapter. The following day, at the gates of Monticchiello, another perfectly preserved hamlet (litter is non-existent), our guide for the day Francesca Raspanti, shows us the spot where a group of partisans were lined up to be executed. At the last moment they were reprieved by the Italian wife of a German commander. 'One of those partisans,' Francesca concludes with a broad grin, 'was my grandfather.' We gain another real-life insight into our dreamy surroundings on a tour of the nearby organic pasta factory, Mulino Val d'Orcia, owned by the same family for three generations. There organic durum wheat from the orderly, surrounding fields is stone-ground and shaped into macaroni, fusilli, penne and cipressini — pasta in the shape of those ubiquitous cypress trees, an irresistible buy from the nearby farm shop. There, in its walled garden, pigeons coo and bunnies hop in the long grass as we enjoy a hearty plate of its pici (thick spaghetti) with tomato and wild garlic sauce topped with viscous, spicy olive oil (tour with lunch £42; These villages and many more can be easily reached from La Posta by either car, or (hearty) walking trails, or on ebikes that can be rented in Bagno Vignoni (£38 for eight hours; After a morning touring, back at the hotel it's straight into our swimming costumes and to the gossip bench, to soak our muscles and yak some more. If only the trio from The White Lotus had chosen La Posta instead of Thailand, they could have skipped all the bickering and headed straight to the final scenes of joyous, female bonding. This article contains affiliate links, which can earn us revenue Julia Llewellyn Smith was a guest of La Posta, which has B&B doubles from £255 ( Fly to Florence By Siobhan Grogan This small boutique hotel, surrounded by vineyards, has bags of rustic Italian charm. Hidden away in the tiny village of Moncioni, an hour's drive north of Siena, its ten elegant rooms are individually decorated and might include bare painted beams, ceiling frescoes or a contemporary four-poster bed. Outside there's a ten-metre pool where lunch is served each day, while the glass-walled Vin Divino, overlooking the valley below, offers a traditional Tuscan menu. There's a heated indoor pool, sauna and steam room plus bikes to borrow, while the chef can be booked for private Italian cookery lessons. Horse riding, wine tasting and the medieval hilltop town of Radda are all Seven nights' B&B from £673pp, including flights ( Tuscan bolt holes don't get much more idyllic than this nine-bedroom country house. Surrounded by its own private olive grove and lavender gardens, it is within walking distance of the village of Pozzo della Chiana and 45 minutes' drive from Siena. Rooms are named after precious jewels and have colour-corresponding throws, headboards and cushions, alongside white antique-style furniture. There's also a self-contained junior suite in a separate cottage with its own private garden, and the entire property can be rented as a whole. Truffle hunting, day trips and wine tasting can be arranged but there's an outdoor pool, tennis court, yoga gazebo and terrace with an outdoor fireplace if you'd rather stay B&B doubles from £166; two-night minimum stay ( Fly to Florence A seven-room hotel on a winery and olive oil farm, Dievole is an 18th-century manor house at the end of a winding driveway lined by cypress trees. There are knockout views in every direction of the estate's 1,480 acres of woodlands and vineyards, located in the medieval hamlet of Vagliagli, 12km north of Siena. Rooms come in calming shades of whites and duck-egg blues with white terracotta floors, polished brass fittings and exposed beams, and pool towels stashed in personalised Dievole jute bags. There are two pools, a restaurant, an on-site nature trail for biking and hiking, and a tasting room to sample Dievole's B&B doubles from £212 ( Fly to Florence
