Latest news with #Voutilainen
Business of Fashion
a day ago
- Business
- Business of Fashion
How to Revive a Sleeping Beauty Watch Brand
The dormant Danish watch company Urban Jürgensen was 'resurrected' in Los Angeles on Thursday following a $25 million revamp that its US backers hope will land it a seat at luxury watchmaking's top table inside five years. Acquired by a group of investors led by the American Rosenfield family in 2021 for an undisclosed sum, Urban Jürgensen was originally founded in Copenhagen in 1773 and is revered by watch connoisseurs and collectors. But outside that bubble, the name is largely unknown. According to its co-chief executive Alex Rosenfield, the bubble needs to burst. 'We think that what we're making are watches that people who love and care about watches will love and care about, but the world of people who can enjoy what we're doing is much larger than that,' Rosenfield told the Business of Fashion. 'Too often, watch companies make you feel like if you don't understand the escapement, we don't want to talk to you. Our goal is absolutely the opposite. It has to be beyond the obsessives.' Rosenfield is new to the watch industry. Qualified as a lawyer, he held a number of brand strategy roles in media and fashion before joining Guggenheim Partners, the US investment and financial services firm, which says it has more than $345 billion of assets under management. Rosenfield's father Andy is the firm's president and also an avid watch collector, buying his first Urban Jürgensen watch in the 1990s. Rosenfield Sr, who will continue to advise the company, and his philanthropist wife Betty hosted the relaunch at their $33 million Brentwood mansion. Rosenfield, who is based in Los Angeles, said his family had never intended to buy a watch company but stepped in to acquire Urban Jürgensen after hearing it had fallen on hard times, so they could return it to 'people who will love it and push it forward.' Urban Jürgensen's latest campaign. (Casey Zhang) The Rosenfields, who are reported to own 85 percent of the company, have assembled an impressive cast list. The company's other co-chief executive is Kari Voutilainen, the Finnish watchmaker considered one of the finest talents of his generation. Voutilainen has a minority stake in Urban Jürgensen, as well as his own independent watch company, which makes around 60 pieces a year. Urban Jürgensen's brand identity was developed by Winkreative in London and Chandelier Creative in New York under Rosenfield's direction, with a launch campaign called Time Well Spent shot by Ellen von Unwerth, the award-winning fashion photographer and filmmaker. The company is set to follow the high-value, low-volume model set by many of today's most successful independent watch brands. According to Rosenfield, in its first year, Urban Jürgensen will produce around 70 watches. Three models were introduced at Thursday's launch, with prices ranging from around $115,000 for the UJ-2 to $410,000 for the UJ-1, which will be limited to 75 pieces. Each has a new mechanical movement designed in-house by Voutilainen and hand-finished and assembled at the company's Swiss facility in the city of Biel/Bienne, where watchmaking giant Omega is based. Currently, it employs 20 people, around half of them watchmakers. 'The idea is to bring the glory of the Urban Jürgensen of the 19th century back,' Voutilainen said, referring to a period when the company made watches for the Danish royal court. 'This is just the starting block. Our aim is to make Urban Jürgensen a new reference point in fine watchmaking.' The revival of Urban Jürgensen comes in a busy season of watch brand rebirths. The private equity-backed Swiss company Breitling has in recent years acquired Universal Genève and Gallet, two dormant brands now slated for a comeback next year. Last year, Silvercity Brands, a subsidiary of the Indian conglomerate KDDL, revived the 18th century company Favre-Leuba, while the US founding partner of the mergers and acquisitions firm Duffy & Sweeney, Michael Sweeney, reintroduced the American watch brand Benrus in April. Rosenfield said he believed the recent glut of acquisitions and relaunches of forgotten dial names was sign that luxury buyers want a human connection to their purchases. 'We're so estranged from work with our hands and hand-making and things that are human, and now I think we need this [these brands] more than we ever did,' he said. Initially, Urban Jürgensen watches will be sold direct to consumer. No pre-orders had been taken, according to Rosenfield, who said that in time his strategy allowed for a few 'pop-ups and offices that serve as showrooms' that would be 'places to entertain as much as to sell', a model that has proved successful for Audemars Piguet, which has more than doubled its revenues over the past decade through its network of laid-back AP House concepts. Voutilainen said the ambition was to grow to between 1,000 and 1,200 watches a year in five years, putting it in territory currently dominated by a small number of high-end independents such as F. P. Journe, which was founded in 1999 and is now thought to turn over more than $100 million a year, according to Morgan Stanley estimates. With backing from the Rosenfields and Voutilainen overseeing product development, experts said Urban Jürgensen would shake up the luxury watch industry, currently dominated by Swiss companies. 'This is the best revival of a watch company since A. Lange & Söhne in 1994,' said Wei Koh, founder of the watch media brand Revolution, referring to the German brand now owned by the Richemont Group. 'I hope the Swiss companies are looking over the Atlantic and asking themselves what just happened,' said Kristian Haagen, the Danish founder of Timegeeks and author of multiple books on watchmaking. 'There's something really good and refreshing about it, something extremely un-Swiss. The Rosenfields are extremely wealthy, but they also know their watches.' Co-founders Andy & Alex Rosenfield. (Madison McGaw/ Recent revivals of historic dial names suggest the omens are good. In 2015, the billionaire Scheufele family that owns Chopard introduced Ferdinand Berthoud, named after the 18th century watchmaker. The company has won a number of prestigious industry awards with its small-scale watches, including the Aiguille d'Or at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2016, widely viewed as the highest honour in fine watchmaking. It was followed the same year by Czapek & Cie, a name from the 19th century. It too has won a GPHG award and grown a client base with its short-batch collections of hand-finished mechanical watches. The luxury watch industry's current travails appeared not to concern Urban Jürgensen's new owners. While many watch businesses have reported declining sales and volumes over the past 18 months, the pain has been at the lower end of the market. 'At the higher price point, it's not that big a problem,' said Voutilainen. Rosenfield acknowledged that the industry was in better health than it is now when his family acquired the brand in 2021. 'The [relaunch] timing was not planned for this moment,' he said. 'But our view was, when the watches are ready, we'll introduce them. And that is now. There will always be a market for things that are beautiful and unique and made to the highest standard. It just has to be something people want.' He added that his family's investment in Urban Jürgensen was long-term. 'Our hope would be to never sell it,' he said. 'We want to pass it down through generations.'
Fashion Network
2 days ago
- Business
- Fashion Network
Guggenheim's Rosenfield revives Danish brand selling $450,000 watches
Alex's background is in fashion and beauty marketing, and Andy is a philanthropist and the president of the financial services firm Guggenheim Partners LLC. The three timepieces represent the revival of a brand that traces its roots to 1773, when Danish watchmaker Jorgen Jürgensen started creating his own pocket watches—far away from the watchmaking heartlands of Switzerland and France. Later, his son Urban took over the helm. A master of mechanics and crafts, Urban built some of the finest pocket watches of the time. The company was handed down from generation to generation until the early 1900s, when it was sold and, in the ensuing years under several different owners, its popularity declined. The brand enjoyed a second renaissance when Swiss watch collector Peter Baumberger purchased the company in 1979 and brought British watchmaker Derek Pratt onboard to create beautiful pocket watches, some oval in shape (including the Pratt Oval, a rare masterpiece you can read about here) and others with teardrop-shaped lugs. In 1996, Baumberger hired cult Finnish watchmaker Kari Voutilainen to work on new movements for wristwatches. Those round wristwatches featured design aesthetics such as teardrop lugs, stepped bezels and small subsidiary seconds dials, embracing a Danish minimalistic, comfortable and functional design style. Voutilainen says he honed his unique finishing skills, the distinctive techniques that define his work, while at the company. Today, he's one of the most celebrated and award-winning independent watchmakers, known for his mastery of the art of engine turning dials by hand on vintage machines, for his incredibly complex finishes on movement parts and his complicated horological movements. While he was passionate about propelling the brand forward, Baumberger died in 2011, which ushered in a new set of owners and diminished demand. Then, four years ago, in 2021, watch collector Andy Rosenfield purchased the Urban Jürgensen brand (with a small group of investors), with the goal to propel it into a third golden age. Already an owner of several Voutilainen watches, Rosenfield brought Voutilainen onboard, along with his own son Alex, to act as co-chief executive officers. While the Rosenfields own 85% of the business, Voutilainen (and some family and friends) own the remaining 15%. Together the co-CEOs vowed to return Urban Jürgensen to its former glory but with a modern twist. 'Our goal is to take our Danish spirit and to create a brand that feels joyful and welcoming. The watches were designed by Kari to be appealing to both men and women,' says the elder Rosenfield. 'He designed a new case and lug shape for the watches that make them sit very comfortably on a smaller wrist.' The round cases are 39mm and 39.5mm in diameter and boast either shortened lugs or reinterpreted teardrop-designed lugs to fit nicely on the wrist. The new Urban Jürgensen watches are made in Switzerland. They're powered by in-house movements designed by Voutilainen and made in the Urban Jürgensen workshops in Biel. Two of the three watches are based on a preexisting Voutilainen caliber that's been adapted. It features a free-spring balance wheel with direct double-wheel escapement. Each is crafted in limited numbers. The UJ-1 watch, for instance, is built in a limited edition of just 75 pieces. Also referred to as the 250th Anniversary watch, it boasts a 39.5mm case and houses a complex gold movement with tourbillon remontoir escapement, which compensates for errors in timekeeping due to the effects of gravity and brings constant force for precision. The watch was inspired by the Pratt Oval, with details such as hand-guilloche finishes, an asymmetric minute track and a gold subsidiary dial. Retailing for 368,000 Swiss francs ($450,000), it's crafted in either rose gold or in platinum and features a hand-finished dial in silver or gray. Three combinations will be offered in runs of 25 of each. The plan is to create just 75 each of the other two watches as well. The UJ-2 watch (105,000 francs) is an elegant time-only watch. Created in cooperation with another top independent watchmaker, Andreas Strehler, the UJ-3 is a perpetual calendar with an instantaneous jump mechanism at midnight that keeps the moonphase accurate to within one day every 14,000 years. It retails for 168,000 francs. The brand expects to make fewer than 100 watches in its first year, then double that in the next. Unlike Voutilainen's namesake brand, which makes about 60 watches a year, Rosenfield says Urban Jürgensen will aim to steadily grow over the course of years, focusing on developing new complications. Currently, the watches are only available directly to consumers online. 'This collection is a tribute to Urban Jürgensen and his unique and extraordinary legacy. It's rooted in everything that defines who we are: precision, artistry, and a profound respect for the value of time,' says Voutilainen. 'We want to keep the brand rare, and while we want to grow it, we can't grow too fast. We want to keep building the most sophisticated movements and create watches with a soul.'
Fashion Network
2 days ago
- Business
- Fashion Network
Guggenheim's Rosenfield revives Danish brand selling $450,000 watches
Alex's background is in fashion and beauty marketing, and Andy is a philanthropist and the president of the financial services firm Guggenheim Partners LLC. The three timepieces represent the revival of a brand that traces its roots to 1773, when Danish watchmaker Jorgen Jürgensen started creating his own pocket watches—far away from the watchmaking heartlands of Switzerland and France. Later, his son Urban took over the helm. A master of mechanics and crafts, Urban built some of the finest pocket watches of the time. The company was handed down from generation to generation until the early 1900s, when it was sold and, in the ensuing years under several different owners, its popularity declined. The brand enjoyed a second renaissance when Swiss watch collector Peter Baumberger purchased the company in 1979 and brought British watchmaker Derek Pratt onboard to create beautiful pocket watches, some oval in shape (including the Pratt Oval, a rare masterpiece you can read about here) and others with teardrop-shaped lugs. In 1996, Baumberger hired cult Finnish watchmaker Kari Voutilainen to work on new movements for wristwatches. Those round wristwatches featured design aesthetics such as teardrop lugs, stepped bezels and small subsidiary seconds dials, embracing a Danish minimalistic, comfortable and functional design style. Voutilainen says he honed his unique finishing skills, the distinctive techniques that define his work, while at the company. Today, he's one of the most celebrated and award-winning independent watchmakers, known for his mastery of the art of engine turning dials by hand on vintage machines, for his incredibly complex finishes on movement parts and his complicated horological movements. While he was passionate about propelling the brand forward, Baumberger died in 2011, which ushered in a new set of owners and diminished demand. Then, four years ago, in 2021, watch collector Andy Rosenfield purchased the Urban Jürgensen brand (with a small group of investors), with the goal to propel it into a third golden age. Already an owner of several Voutilainen watches, Rosenfield brought Voutilainen onboard, along with his own son Alex, to act as co-chief executive officers. While the Rosenfields own 85% of the business, Voutilainen (and some family and friends) own the remaining 15%. Together the co-CEOs vowed to return Urban Jürgensen to its former glory but with a modern twist. 'Our goal is to take our Danish spirit and to create a brand that feels joyful and welcoming. The watches were designed by Kari to be appealing to both men and women,' says the elder Rosenfield. 'He designed a new case and lug shape for the watches that make them sit very comfortably on a smaller wrist.' The round cases are 39mm and 39.5mm in diameter and boast either shortened lugs or reinterpreted teardrop-designed lugs to fit nicely on the wrist. The new Urban Jürgensen watches are made in Switzerland. They're powered by in-house movements designed by Voutilainen and made in the Urban Jürgensen workshops in Biel. Two of the three watches are based on a preexisting Voutilainen caliber that's been adapted. It features a free-spring balance wheel with direct double-wheel escapement. Each is crafted in limited numbers. The UJ-1 watch, for instance, is built in a limited edition of just 75 pieces. Also referred to as the 250th Anniversary watch, it boasts a 39.5mm case and houses a complex gold movement with tourbillon remontoir escapement, which compensates for errors in timekeeping due to the effects of gravity and brings constant force for precision. The watch was inspired by the Pratt Oval, with details such as hand-guilloche finishes, an asymmetric minute track and a gold subsidiary dial. Retailing for 368,000 Swiss francs ($450,000), it's crafted in either rose gold or in platinum and features a hand-finished dial in silver or gray. Three combinations will be offered in runs of 25 of each. The plan is to create just 75 each of the other two watches as well. The UJ-2 watch (105,000 francs) is an elegant time-only watch. Created in cooperation with another top independent watchmaker, Andreas Strehler, the UJ-3 is a perpetual calendar with an instantaneous jump mechanism at midnight that keeps the moonphase accurate to within one day every 14,000 years. It retails for 168,000 francs. The brand expects to make fewer than 100 watches in its first year, then double that in the next. Unlike Voutilainen's namesake brand, which makes about 60 watches a year, Rosenfield says Urban Jürgensen will aim to steadily grow over the course of years, focusing on developing new complications. Currently, the watches are only available directly to consumers online. 'This collection is a tribute to Urban Jürgensen and his unique and extraordinary legacy. It's rooted in everything that defines who we are: precision, artistry, and a profound respect for the value of time,' says Voutilainen. 'We want to keep the brand rare, and while we want to grow it, we can't grow too fast. We want to keep building the most sophisticated movements and create watches with a soul.'
Fashion Network
3 days ago
- Business
- Fashion Network
Guggenheim's Rosenfield revives Danish brand selling $450,000 watches
Alex's background is in fashion and beauty marketing, and Andy is a philanthropist and the president of the financial services firm Guggenheim Partners LLC. The three timepieces represent the revival of a brand that traces its roots to 1773, when Danish watchmaker Jorgen Jürgensen started creating his own pocket watches—far away from the watchmaking heartlands of Switzerland and France. Later, his son Urban took over the helm. A master of mechanics and crafts, Urban built some of the finest pocket watches of the time. The company was handed down from generation to generation until the early 1900s, when it was sold and, in the ensuing years under several different owners, its popularity declined. The brand enjoyed a second renaissance when Swiss watch collector Peter Baumberger purchased the company in 1979 and brought British watchmaker Derek Pratt onboard to create beautiful pocket watches, some oval in shape (including the Pratt Oval, a rare masterpiece you can read about here) and others with teardrop-shaped lugs. In 1996, Baumberger hired cult Finnish watchmaker Kari Voutilainen to work on new movements for wristwatches. Those round wristwatches featured design aesthetics such as teardrop lugs, stepped bezels and small subsidiary seconds dials, embracing a Danish minimalistic, comfortable and functional design style. Voutilainen says he honed his unique finishing skills, the distinctive techniques that define his work, while at the company. Today, he's one of the most celebrated and award-winning independent watchmakers, known for his mastery of the art of engine turning dials by hand on vintage machines, for his incredibly complex finishes on movement parts and his complicated horological movements. While he was passionate about propelling the brand forward, Baumberger died in 2011, which ushered in a new set of owners and diminished demand. Then, four years ago, in 2021, watch collector Andy Rosenfield purchased the Urban Jürgensen brand (with a small group of investors), with the goal to propel it into a third golden age. Already an owner of several Voutilainen watches, Rosenfield brought Voutilainen onboard, along with his own son Alex, to act as co-chief executive officers. While the Rosenfields own 85% of the business, Voutilainen (and some family and friends) own the remaining 15%. Together the co-CEOs vowed to return Urban Jürgensen to its former glory but with a modern twist. 'Our goal is to take our Danish spirit and to create a brand that feels joyful and welcoming. The watches were designed by Kari to be appealing to both men and women,' says the elder Rosenfield. 'He designed a new case and lug shape for the watches that make them sit very comfortably on a smaller wrist.' The round cases are 39mm and 39.5mm in diameter and boast either shortened lugs or reinterpreted teardrop-designed lugs to fit nicely on the wrist. The new Urban Jürgensen watches are made in Switzerland. They're powered by in-house movements designed by Voutilainen and made in the Urban Jürgensen workshops in Biel. Two of the three watches are based on a preexisting Voutilainen caliber that's been adapted. It features a free-spring balance wheel with direct double-wheel escapement. Each is crafted in limited numbers. The UJ-1 watch, for instance, is built in a limited edition of just 75 pieces. Also referred to as the 250th Anniversary watch, it boasts a 39.5mm case and houses a complex gold movement with tourbillon remontoir escapement, which compensates for errors in timekeeping due to the effects of gravity and brings constant force for precision. The watch was inspired by the Pratt Oval, with details such as hand-guilloche finishes, an asymmetric minute track and a gold subsidiary dial. Retailing for 368,000 Swiss francs ($450,000), it's crafted in either rose gold or in platinum and features a hand-finished dial in silver or gray. Three combinations will be offered in runs of 25 of each. The plan is to create just 75 each of the other two watches as well. The UJ-2 watch (105,000 francs) is an elegant time-only watch. Created in cooperation with another top independent watchmaker, Andreas Strehler, the UJ-3 is a perpetual calendar with an instantaneous jump mechanism at midnight that keeps the moonphase accurate to within one day every 14,000 years. It retails for 168,000 francs. The brand expects to make fewer than 100 watches in its first year, then double that in the next. Unlike Voutilainen's namesake brand, which makes about 60 watches a year, Rosenfield says Urban Jürgensen will aim to steadily grow over the course of years, focusing on developing new complications. Currently, the watches are only available directly to consumers online. 'This collection is a tribute to Urban Jürgensen and his unique and extraordinary legacy. It's rooted in everything that defines who we are: precision, artistry, and a profound respect for the value of time,' says Voutilainen. 'We want to keep the brand rare, and while we want to grow it, we can't grow too fast. We want to keep building the most sophisticated movements and create watches with a soul.'
Hype Malaysia
30-04-2025
- Hype Malaysia
2 New Drops From Louis Vuitton & M.A.D.Editions That'll Blow Up Your Adventure Game
Whether you're hiking, diving, or simply navigating daily life, these durable timepieces are built to withstand it all. From rugged outdoor designs to vintage classics brimming with history, these watches offer more than just the time – they're designed to endure. Here are our top picks for the toughest watches. Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6 The Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6 is the epitome of luxury, craftsmanship, and travel-inspired design. This collaboration between Louis Vuitton and the master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen is more than just a timepiece; it's a piece of history, blending artistry, tradition, and innovation. The LVKV-02 GMR 6 combines Louis Vuitton's travel heritage with Voutilainen's expert craftsmanship. Its 40.5mm case, made from tantalum and platinum, showcases the high standards of both brands. Inspired by Louis Vuitton's iconic trunks, the 'Escale' case adds a touch of travel elegance. Each lug is hand-polished, and the case side takes four hours to satin-finish, creating a smooth blend of matte and shiny textures. The gold dial blends both brands' artistry, featuring a diamond-polished hour circle by Maryna Bossy and hand-guilloché detailing. It includes miniature painting, engraving, and enamel work with a day/night disc in Louis Vuitton's signature saffron and blue. A hidden Monogram flower in the enamel adds a refined touch of elegance. The LVKV-02 GMR 6 features a manual-winding mechanical movement, hand-finished and assembled in the Voutilainen workshop. Known for its two direct-impulse escapement wheels, the movement enhances energy efficiency, longevity, and accuracy. It also includes a retrograde power reserve display and a second time zone with a 24-hour format – perfect for global travelers. Limited to just five pieces, the LVKV-02 GMR 6 is an extremely rare creation. Each watch is paired with a bespoke Louis Vuitton travel trunk, handcrafted using the Maison's signature techniques. The trunk, designed to store the watch, doubles as a work of art, further enhancing the collection's exclusivity. The Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6 isn't just a timepiece; it's a testament to exceptional craftsmanship, elegance, and functionality. With only five pieces in existence, this collaboration represents the pinnacle of artistry in watchmaking. Discover the artistry behind this rare masterpiece – explore the Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6 now at Louis Vuitton Malaysia. M.A.D.2 by Eric Giroud The M.A.D.2 by Eric Giroud is a stunning evolution of the M.A.D.1, blending horological craftsmanship with a striking design inspired by the electric energy of the 1990s club scene. The M.A.D.2 carries forward the legacy of its predecessor, the M.A.D.1, but with a new twist that pushes boundaries even further. The M.A.D.1 made MB&F watches more accessible, but the M.A.D.2 takes things up a notch with bold design and no limits on creativity. Designed by longtime MB&F collaborator Eric Giroud, it's inspired by the vibrant club scene of 1990s Lausanne – specifically MAD and Dolce Vita – where music, culture, and imagination ruled. That same energy is captured in every detail of the M.A.D.2. The M.A.D.2 stands out with its sleek, almond-shaped stainless steel case that feels as smooth as it looks. Its hour and minute subdials resemble DJ turntables, while the centre dial mimics vinyl grooves – a clear tribute to music. Even the stroboscopic band nods to the iconic Technics SL-1200, capturing the spirit of classic club gear. One of the most unique features is the bi-directional jumping hour complication, which adds an element of surprise for the wearer. The watch also features a gyroscopic off-centred rotor that can be seen from both the front and the back, offering a 360-degree view of its intricate mechanics. There are two versions of the M.A.D.2: an Orange edition, reserved exclusively for MB&F's loyal 'Tribe' members and friends, and a Green edition that will be available through a raffle system. This follows the same strategy used for the M.A.D.1, where access to these exclusive timepieces is highly sought after and, inevitably, highly competitive. Eric Giroud's M.A.D.2 design is a tribute to the vibrant '90s club scene and vinyl culture. From turntable-inspired dials to nods to Technics gear, every detail echoes that era's energy. A custom track by DJ Mandrax completes the nostalgic vibe. The M.A.D.2 is a bold step forward for marking a shift from its original concept as a one-time project. After the unexpected success of the M.A.D.1 and its raffles, the brand has entered a new phase. Created by Giroud, the M.A.D.2 moves away from Max Büsser's original vision, signaling a new era for the brand. The future looks promising, with more surprises likely to come from this experimental brand. In summary, the M.A.D.2 by Eric Giroud isn't just a watch; it's a celebration of creative rebellion, 90s nostalgia, and the electrifying pulse of club culture, all wrapped up in a visually striking timepiece that merges cutting-edge design with horological innovation. The orange edition is exclusive to 'The Tribe' for CHF2,900 (RM13,891) + VAT. The green edition, available via raffle with 2,000 pieces in the first batch, will be drawn soon – check Instagram for updates! For more info and to secure yours, click here.
