6 days ago
This New London Bar Debuts A ‘Keystone Cocktail' Concept That Wows
Sprout, a newly-opened bar concept in London, with an innovative take on vegetal drinks. Sprout
Vegetal cocktails have emerged as one of the year's most intriguing trends, bringing garden-fresh flavors to the forefront of mixology. Case in point: The Tomatotini — a vibrant, savory take on the classic martini that's captured the attention of bartenders, cocktail enthusiasts, and social feeds alike for what seems to be an eternity. But, the Tomatotini walked so that the Tomato Collins could run, it seems.
Hidden amongst the muted colors and lush gardens in London's newly-opened Miiro Templeton Garden is Sprout, a new bar concept by renowned consultants Will Meredith and Ellie Camm. They not only brought the savory cocktail trend to Sprouts, but created a 'keystone cocktail' concept that is elevated, nuanced and innovative.
'The keystone cocktail idea came from wanting each drink to have a really clear identity. Instead of building a cocktail around a theme or a long list of ingredients, we start with one defining element — the keystone — and let everything else revolve around that,' says Meredith.
And the keystone for many of these cocktails is vegetables, from tomatoes and onions (yes, onions), to gooseberries and anchovies. While developing this bar concept, Meredith explains that the team kept coming back to the idea that vegetables form the basis for so many culinary dishes, and once cooked release a host of unexpected flavors. 'They have so much character — more subtlety, more texture, and a natural savoriness that can help to balance drinks,' he says.
But don't get it twisted — these cocktails aren't gimmicky or ostentatious. They are elegant and refined, perfect for a curious palate but familiar enough for a traditionalist.
'That balance is something we think about constantly. We never want the drinks to feel intimidating or too clever for their own good since at the end of the day, people are here to relax and enjoy themselves,' Meredith says.
Unlike other cocktails that start behind the bar, these cocktails get started in the kitchen. To get the most flavor out of the vegetables, Meredith and bar manager Dominic Royle start by roasting them. The process is low and slow to avoid burning anything and to coax out the sugars and soften the bitterness. Meredith says that a bit of fat helps too, like a neutral oil or butter if it suits the ingredient, to help round out the flavor. This process, Meredith explains, pulls out all the depth and sweetness in a vegetable that you'd never get raw, adding texture and complexity to the finished beverage.
'It's not about making the drink taste like roasted vegetables, it's about using that process to bring out the best of the ingredient and let it play a more interesting role in the final flavor portfolio,' he adds.
The menu is made up of the Market Stall, which are the bar's signature drinks and will be available year-round with an emphasis on quality. The specials will rotate in and out based on season and will be replaced as ingredients run their course. Favorites include the Tomato Collins and Sweet Pea Spritz, while the Squash Sour and Red Onion Martini have been sleeper hits. And, a Courgette Gibson and Rhubarb Ramos are always good ideas at Sprout.
The interior of Sprout at the new Miiro Templeton Garden. James McDonald
Matching the unassuming-yet-whimsical nature of the cocktail program is the bar itself, which constantly inspires Meredith and Royle, but also created the ethos in which these drinks thrive.
'Sprout is literally surrounded by greenery, and the whole vibe of Templeton Garden is this quiet, grounded elegance, so it made sense to work with ingredients that reflect that,' says Royle.
He explains that when people leave Sprout, whether after one drink on the way to dinner or after a long evening of catching up with friends, he hopes they feel they have discovered something new. To do that, he works to ensure their experience is quite memorable from beginning to end.
'Sprout isn't trying to shout or show off — it's a calm, creative space where everything's been considered, but nothing feels forced. Hopefully, that comes through in the drinks, the music, the lighting, the way we chat with guests. It should feel like time well spent,' he says.
Time well spent, indeed.
