6 days ago
I took part in Europe's ‘toughest half marathon' on Croatia's sunniest island – and lived to tell the tale
Europe's 'toughest half marathon' takes place on a picturesque suntrap just an hour's ferry journey from Split
NEAR AND HVAR I took part in Europe's 'toughest half marathon' on Croatia's sunniest island – and lived to tell the tale
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THEY say you can't run from your problems but as I neared the end of a 20km road race over a Croatian mountain, I was pretty sure that, for once, I had the advantage.
The Hvar Half Marathon, billed as Europe's toughest, sees competitors climb some 1,400ft, winding their way up and over a mountain from one side of the picturesque Dalmatian isle to the other.
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Will Metcalfe nearing the summit of the Hvar Half Marathon
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The route begins in Stari Grad before beginning a 9km climb
And as relentless as life can be, I was pretty sure that for once the troubles of day-to-day life were almost out of sight.
Though not for the faint-hearted, the race is a fantastic way to see the island.
A short ferry journey from Split, stunning Hvar is surrounded by crystal clear waters, jagged shores and — for much of my brief stay — cloudless blue skies.
As our catamaran approached, the island's jagged outline jutting from the Adriatic Sea set my heart racing. Perched atop a cliff is an imposing fortress dating back to the 13th century, built by the Venetians before being strengthened by Spanish troops some 300 years later and eventually occupied by Napoleonic forces.
But it was not the fortifications, nor medieval city walls that caught my eye, it was the height. I would be running, if not scaling, this in just a few days.
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Split is a one hour ferry ride away
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The sets out from the narrow streets of Stari Grad
As well as giving competitors bragging rights, the race, from Stari Grad on the north of the island to the town of Hvar on the south, offers fantastic scenery taking in woods, lavender fields and unsullied views over the coast.
The race itself is a humble event. In 2025 there were 78 entrants and 65 starters from as far as the US, New Zealand, South Korea and Argentina. And of course Scotland — via Cumbria.
The small scale allows for a fun atmosphere and the main square of Hvar town becomes something of a party spot with finishers wolfing down plates of carb-laden food and beers, while celebrating each finisher crossing the line.
I don't look like a runner. I'm not built for it. I carry weight around my midriff. And I've short legs. Like really short.
With my 29-inch inside leg, watching me power uphill past some more physically adept runners was akin to watching a dachshund keep stride with a German Shepherd.
But even my minuscule stride, and a 1,400ft ascent, couldn't stop me from coming home in 20th, clocking a two hour time — a mere 12 minutes slower than my personal best — despite the ascent. Proud. Delirious. And incredibly sweaty, I was now ready to relax and explore.
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Will Metcalfe at the finish line of the Hvar Half Marathon
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Immediately after crossing the line
And while my troubles may not have been able to catch me, even with my tiny stride, one woman put me in my place after making up a 500m gap, stopping to pick a bouquet of lavender and skipping off down the road leaving me for dust.
Still, you've got to laugh, haven't you?
I stayed in the Amfora Grand Beach Resort — a sprawling complex with sea views a short walk from Hvar town itself.
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Hotel Amfora in Hvar, Croatia
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The hotel sits beside a secluded bay
On arrival at the port a courier collects your case as you leave the ferry, before the pleasant stroll along the promenade to the hotel.
The resort proved the perfect place to recover from my half marathon heroics, with two pools, a gym and a spa at my disposal — and more importantly a well-stocked bar!
The island is a perfect playground with amazing cycling, running and sailing on offer along with diving, swimming and plenty of opportunities to soak up the sun.
The permanent population of around 10,000 can double in peak season creating a notable buzz. During my visit at the end of May the weather and the crowds were perfect, the island well on its way to awakening after a winter break.
And at any time of day in Hvar town you will see locals stopping every 10 or 15 paces to speak to the friends they have grown up with — a mark of an island that has retained its sense of community.
For the non-runners, a great way to see the island is to take a tour with a local. Zorana Vrandecic, my guide, is Hvar born and bred and knows the island, and its residents, like the back of her hand.
The roads here cling to cliffs, climbing, burrowing and crawling their way around the mountains — giving off a small-scale Amalfi Coast.
Being an island, Hvar is rich in seafood with unrivalled freshness and quality. Gregada, a simple stew of fish, stock and potatoes, right, is an island delicacy and a great introduction to the local cuisine.
The simplicity and lack of fuss outlines a confidence in the quality of not only the food but the island's way of life.
The island has a genuine charm and a rustic, unpretentious take on life.
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One of the best spots to see Hvar is from the sea
A tour of the outlying archipelago offers a different perspective, and with plenty of sheltered spots and bays, offers a chance to take in the crystal clear waters and even enjoy an ice-cold beer under the summer sun.
For a change of pace, nearby Split offers the chance to explore the real-life labyrinth of Diocletian's Palace and enjoy a slight shift in pace.
The white limestone and marble is striking and lays bare the collision of cultures that tell its story. Founded by the Greeks, conquered by the Romans, the Byzantines, the Venetians, Austro-Hungary . . . you get the idea. Split has seen a lot of change.
The old town is built around the walls of Diocletian's Palace and creates a rabbit warren. Taking a walk as the light fades is a great way to drink in the atmosphere of the city but to really get a feel for the place, a guide can breathe fresh life.
I stayed in the Heritage Hotel Fermai, a short hop from the ancient city walls and the old town. However, as my guide Marina Bitujanc told me, the beauty of Split is that nothing is more than a 15-minute walk.
Whether that's the Port, the beach or the picturesque Marjan Forest Park, which offers fantastic vantage points back towards the Old Town and looking out across the bay to Slatine a popular hotspot for Split residents.
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A view of Split from the Marjan Forest
Game of Thrones fans might recognise Split as Mereen and while there is an abundance of shops and tours, the real sights here are best witnessed away from the crowds — whether that's a coffee at a bar tucked away in a little street, or enjoying an ice cold beer on a quiet spot on the beach under the summer sun.
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
GETTING THERE: fly from Edinburgh to Split from £91pp one-way. See
STAYING THERE: For the best rates at the 4H Amfora Grand Beach Resort in Hvar see And for the best prices at the 4H Heritage Hotel Fermai in Split see
MORE INFO: For more on Hvar see and for visiting Croatia see
Split is compact, it has great food, and makes for a fantastic jumping off point to explore the islands of Croatia.
The Dalmatian Coast is the perfect spot to forget your troubles — and the good news is you don't have to run across any mountains to do it.
