28-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Straits Times
‘Tiger bites lion': Getting a kick out of Malaysian coffee shop beverages
A glass of 'hor ka sai', which is prepared by mixing black coffee and Milo with condensed and evaporated milk. PHOTO: THE STAR/ASIA NEWS NETWORK
GEORGE TOWN - From Milo dinosaur to Michael Jackson, the Malaysian terms for beverages are so varied that they can be baffling to the outsider.
Milo dinosaur gives you an idea of how massive the chocolatey drink is, while Michael Jackson refers to soya milk with cincau, no doubt in reference to the singer's hit song Black or White.
Kopitiam regulars will be familiar with drinks like 'kopi C' (coffee with sugar and evaporated milk) and 'cham' (or ying yong, which combines coffee with tea).
And here in the northern part of the peninsula in Penang, there is 'hor ka sai' (Hokkien for 'tiger bites lion') which is a mix of black coffee with Milo.
Kopitiam owner Yap Swee Tin, 74, explained that 'hor ka sai' consists of black coffee and Milo, enhanced with condensed and evaporated milk.
'First, the cup is partly filled with Milo, followed by a generous amount of condensed milk,' she said.
'Then, black coffee is poured into the drink and finished off with evaporated milk.
'Hor ka sai is always served cold.'
While the drink has been around for a long time, she said the name 'hor ka sai' gained popularity in recent years, especially among Chinese patrons who appreciate its bold meaning.
'A cup of iced coffee costs RM2.50 (S$0.75), while iced Milo is RM3. So, hor ka sai is RM4.50 because of the extra effort required to prepare it.'
She said the drink has a 'unique kick' for those who sipped it.
This mocha-like beverage is said to have originated in the 1950s in Perak.
Others claimed it first emerged in the fishing town of Kuala Kurau in northwest Perak.
It is believed to have originated as a high-energy drink for tin miners in Perak.
The rich and potent blend helped miners endure gruelling hours of their physically-demanding job.
However, some suggested that the name 'hor ka sai' has its roots in Cantonese, as it is a term often used with sarcasm to mock someone flaunting their wealth or status.
Oriental Daily reported last October that 'tiger bites lion' is sold at convenience stores in Taiwan. The report quoted a Facebook post which showed a packet of the drink with the words 'Hor Ka Sai' and 'Malaysian Kopitiam'.
But the drink is less popular in Ipoh where the white coffee reigns supreme. It can be found at various eateries in Ipoh where it is also known locally as Nescafe Milo or Milo kopi.
Ms Wong Shin Ee, who works at Sin Yoon Loong, which is known for its white coffee, said there will probably be one order for the beverage for every 10 cups of white coffee.
'White coffee is still the most ordered drink here,' said Ms Wong, 25. 'We don't call it 'hor ka sai' but it is known as Milo kopi or MC (Milo coffee). It is more popular among the youth.'
Kong Fu Kopitiam owner Ricky Soong said the beverage, which he believes to have originated from Taiping or somewhere in the northern region of Perak, is not available at his shop.
'Ipoh white coffee on its own is already nice, so I don't believe in mixing it with chocolate powder,' he said.
'I think it is just a gimmick created by the younger generation.'
How about 'kopi gu you' (Hokkien for coffee with butter) then?
In Penang, this drink is prepared by adding a small cube of butter to hot coffee.
At Bee Ghah Kafe in Teluk Kumbar, the beverage has been on the menu for nearly 100 years, said its third-generation owner Teoh Phaik Chin, 50.
'My grandfather brought the recipe from China and included it on the menu when he opened the coffee shop here before the war.
'The business has been running for over 90 years, and back then, this coffee was believed to help soothe the throats of opium smokers.
'It is well known among the older generation, but now, thanks to social media, young people are rediscovering it for its uniqueness,' she said.
Mdm Teoh explained that in the past, the coffee was served with a cube of butter placed separately on a saucer.
'Coffee drinkers could choose to eat the butter after finishing the coffee or stir it into the drink.
'Today, we add the butter directly into the coffee,' she said.
And if you're not confused yet by all the terminology, a coffee manufacturer is also selling 'gao siew dai', which refers to strong coffee with less sugar. THE STAR/ASIA NEWS NETWORK
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