7 days ago
Visit the heart of Arnhem Land
From the air, Arnhem Land is full of grand gestures: the glint of serpentine rivers winding their way through ancient gorges, a flash of terracotta earth slicing through arboreous countryside, swathes of azure ocean washing up against white sand. On the ground, the experience is no less dramatic as wetlands vibrate with the beating wings of thousands of waterbirds, while dolphins, dugong and manta rays frolic in the waters the Cobourg Peninsula.
This is Yolngu Country, one of the most remote and culturally significant regions in Australia. From Nhulunbuy and Yirrkala in East Arnhem Land, it stretches west across the Top End almost as far as Jabiru, covering a distance of 97,000 kilometres. The Arafura Sea along the northern coastline offers some of the best barra fishing in the country, while rocky shelters inland protect rarely glimpsed art that's thousands of years old. And that's just the beginning of what you'll experience on Outback Spirit's 13-day Arnhem Land Wetlands & Wildlife Tour.
Country, culture and adventure
The tour begins in Nhulunbuy, following a short two-hour flight from Cairns arriving at Gove Airport. Built in the 1960s as a service hub for the local bauxite mine, Gove is a buzzy regional centre and an idyllic gateway to the region. Over two days in Nhulunbuy, you'll experience a special Welcome to Country ceremony on Wirrwawuy Beach, learn about Yolngu culture and bush medicine, and visit the Buku-Larrnggay Mulka (Yirrkala) Art Centre, whose artists are internationally recognised for their remarkable paintings done on bark and totem poles. This is also the seat of the Aboriginal Land Rights movement — in 1963, it was from Yirrkala that the 'bark petition' was sent to Federal Parliament in Canberra.
The tour then ventures deeper into Arnhem Land, to the spectacular Arafura Swamp. Home to as many as 300,000 waterbirds, the swamp is a haven for birdwatchers. Onboard a scenic cruise, spot brolgas wading alongside black-necked storks, and listen for the distinctive honk of magpie geese. Later, a 4WD tour around the swamp offers the chance to hear First Nations guides share Dreamtime stories of Country and culture.
After two nights at Murwangi Safari Camp, you'll head north-west to Maningrida on Kunibídji Country, where Arnhem Land Barramundi Lodge is your home for the next couple of days. The eponymous barra are a big attraction around these parts and there's plenty of opportunity to cast a line as you cruise the Liverpool and Tomkinson Rivers (plus you'll pick up a few tips from the expert fishing guides along the way). If you're not keen on fishing, exploring the gently winding waterways under the shade canopy of the Ocean Master vessel can feel almost meditative.
Later, a visit to the Maningrida Arts and Cultural Centre and Djómi Museum is an opportunity to see and learn about local artists, whose painted and woven works have been highly collectable for decades. This includes the art of Yirawala (1897–1976), the first Indigenous artist to have work included in the collection of the National Gallery of Australia.
There's more to come for art lovers as the tour moves from Maningrida to Mount Borradaile, where you'll jump in open-back vehicles to explore the hidden rock-art galleries that depict traditional Aboriginal life over thousands of years. Here, you'll witness the breathtaking Rainbow Serpent, the largest known depiction of this powerful creation spirit in Australia, stretching over six metres. This more-than-50,000-year-old painting was kept secret by the local Amurdak people until its reveal in 1987.
