Latest news with #Yugen
Sydney Morning Herald
3 days ago
- General
- Sydney Morning Herald
The $6 ingredient to elevate your Japanese cooking, according to a top chef
You've likely heard of kombu, but here's what it does, and how to use it in the kitchen. The one ingredient you need in your kitchen to elevate your Japanese cooking? When you ask chef Alex Yu this question, he doesn't hesitate: kombu. 'You can't talk about Japanese cuisine without talking about kombu,' Yu says. 'It is fundamental. It's at the very, very base and core of Japanese cuisine.' If you've dined at a Japanese restaurant or café, you've almost certainly eaten kombu. An edible kelp, it's widely consumed across East Asia, but is a particular feature of Japanese cuisine, used in dashi, sushi rice, hot pots and udon noodles. But the riddle, Yu says, is that kombu doesn't actually have much taste itself. So what makes it so important? Its ability to enhance the flavour of the ingredients it accompanies; and that's because of its concentration of glutamic acid, which imparts the taste of umami, which is so prized in Japanese food. 'It depends on what you want, but it has this subtle but very deep flavour, which means it helps feature other ingredients, in a sense,' he says. Yu shows me some sheets of kombu he uses as executive chef at Sokyo Brisbane (Yu was previously head chef at Yugen in Melbourne, and before that Sokyo Sydney). They're enormous, their matte black texture dusted with dried salt. Yu's kombu is sourced from Korea, and what type he uses depends on import restrictions that sometimes come and go with Japanese products. 'There are other places you can get it too, but the seas where this is from are quite close [to Japan],' he says. Yu says he's seen sheets of kombu that sell for 'easily $200' in Japan, and that the grading tends to indicate how much umami you can extract from it in your cooking. But it needn't be expensive, with a 25-gram pack of sheets going for as little as $6 at the local Japanese grocery store. But how to use it at home? There are plenty of ways, Yu says, including pickling it and putting it on rice, chopping it and adding to sauce, or dampening the kombu sheet and wrapping a piece of fish for four to six hours. 'All that flavour goes into the fish, giving it a different texture and flavour,' he says. Still, dashi is the killer app, particularly when you're using it to make miso soup. 'The best way to [cook it] is in water that's about 60 degrees Celsius – so a little more than hot – and then you take it off the heat and skim all the excess foam and debris. And then you're commonly adding katsuobushi, or bonito flakes. 'The glutamic acid of the kombu and acetic acid of the bonito have synergistic effect, meaning the umami level multiplies significantly,' Yu says. 'It's why a good miso soup has that huge depth of flavour.'
The Age
3 days ago
- General
- The Age
The $6 ingredient to elevate your Japanese cooking, according to a top chef
You've likely heard of kombu, but here's what it does, and how to use it in the kitchen. The one ingredient you need in your kitchen to elevate your Japanese cooking? When you ask chef Alex Yu this question, he doesn't hesitate: kombu. 'You can't talk about Japanese cuisine without talking about kombu,' Yu says. 'It is fundamental. It's at the very, very base and core of Japanese cuisine.' If you've dined at a Japanese restaurant or café, you've almost certainly eaten kombu. An edible kelp, it's widely consumed across East Asia, but is a particular feature of Japanese cuisine, used in dashi, sushi rice, hot pots and udon noodles. But the riddle, Yu says, is that kombu doesn't actually have much taste itself. So what makes it so important? Its ability to enhance the flavour of the ingredients it accompanies; and that's because of its concentration of glutamic acid, which imparts the taste of umami, which is so prized in Japanese food. 'It depends on what you want, but it has this subtle but very deep flavour, which means it helps feature other ingredients, in a sense,' he says. Yu shows me some sheets of kombu he uses as executive chef at Sokyo Brisbane (Yu was previously head chef at Yugen in Melbourne, and before that Sokyo Sydney). They're enormous, their matte black texture dusted with dried salt. Yu's kombu is sourced from Korea, and what type he uses depends on import restrictions that sometimes come and go with Japanese products. 'There are other places you can get it too, but the seas where this is from are quite close [to Japan],' he says. Yu says he's seen sheets of kombu that sell for 'easily $200' in Japan, and that the grading tends to indicate how much umami you can extract from it in your cooking. But it needn't be expensive, with a 25-gram pack of sheets going for as little as $6 at the local Japanese grocery store. But how to use it at home? There are plenty of ways, Yu says, including pickling it and putting it on rice, chopping it and adding to sauce, or dampening the kombu sheet and wrapping a piece of fish for four to six hours. 'All that flavour goes into the fish, giving it a different texture and flavour,' he says. Still, dashi is the killer app, particularly when you're using it to make miso soup. 'The best way to [cook it] is in water that's about 60 degrees Celsius – so a little more than hot – and then you take it off the heat and skim all the excess foam and debris. And then you're commonly adding katsuobushi, or bonito flakes. 'The glutamic acid of the kombu and acetic acid of the bonito have synergistic effect, meaning the umami level multiplies significantly,' Yu says. 'It's why a good miso soup has that huge depth of flavour.'
Time Out
18-06-2025
- Business
- Time Out
Flinders Lane just scored a smoking hot basement restaurant for contemporary fire-fuelled fare
Melbourne loves a visually dramatic restaurant opening – from Reine and La Rue 's breathtaking reveal in the city's historic former Stock Exchange building to Yugen 's stylish subterranean debut in South Yarra, golden orb, shimmering chandelier and all. So it seems natural that in searching for a permanent space for Sri Lankan import Ministry of Crab, hospo group H&J Restaurants would select somewhere with sufficient swank factor. Flinders Lane's newly restored Invicta House was the ticket and now, months later, the team have opened a second restaurant in its basement as promised. Let's just say, it's looking very swish indeed. Under the watchful presence of an imposing bull sculpture, guests descend the tunnel staircase before unearthing a striking centrepiece stone bar in the world below. Beyond, a fiery open kitchen reveals the chefs' craftsmanship, a culinary show that plays until midnight. The 115-seater space is decked out in dramatic reds, charcoals and deep blues to set a moody tone – courtesy of top-notch design and architecture firm Air Studio. The new dining destination promises to simmer with sexy, after-dark Melbourne energy – but what can guests expect to eat and drink here? One clue lies in its mysterious name: II II VI (or if reading Roman numerals hurts your brain, Two-Two-Six). In ancient Roman times, food was primarily prepared in open fires and ovens, fuelled by natural elements like charcoal and wood. This is the type of smoky, charred deliciousness you can expect at the new Flinders Lane restaurant, where a custom parilla grill, hibachi grill and charcoal oven will entrust the mighty flame with mighty work: to elevate fine ingredients to their highest potential. Fire plays a part across many of the world's cuisines and cultural histories beyond ancient Rome, of course – all from which II II VI draws inspiration. H&J Restaurants' managing director Harsha Kumarasingha explains: 'The kitchen team combine the technical precision of Japanese robata, the passion of South American asado, and the rustic charm of Basque flame-cooking, amalgamating for a globally minded, contemporary Australian dining experience.' While the cooking may be internationally inspired, executive chef Kerry Lam (Koko at Crown, Calia Group) and head chef Haitham Richani (Gradi Group, Barmah Park Restaurant & Cellar Door, Hopetoun Tea Rooms) have crafted a menu that homes in on Australian produce and ingredients. In the upcoming chef's table experience, guests will be able to select between two or three courses that feature dishes like dry-aged Mayura Wagyu rump, salt-baked John Dory and Abrolhos Island scallops. Luxe starters span fresh oysters, foie gras and caviar, while a highlight of the dessert menu is a flame-treated spiced rum baba. Currently, a bar snack menu and select wine list are available while the restaurant refines and reveals its full menu in the coming weeks. To find out more, visit the website or check out the restaurant's Instagram page. II II VI is located in the basement of 226 Flinders Lane and is open from Wednesday to Saturday, 5pm until midnight.
CNA
14-06-2025
- Business
- CNA
He made matcha cool: Meet the founder of Kyoto specialty teashop Yugen
As a child, teatime was an important part of the day for Tadayuki Sudo, who grew up in Osaka, Japan. Every afternoon, his mother would brew him a cup of hot matcha, which he would slowly savour. The founder of Japanese specialty tea store Yugen in Kyoto missed the drink when he left for San Diego in the US to study sociology in university. 'But whenever I went home – matcha!' laughed Sudo. For Sudo, drinking matcha is associated with the comforts of home. I met him in his casual, chic shop-cum-gallery that also sells its teas online, as well as to retailers, cafes and restaurants in more than 40 countries. Even after graduating and moving to Tokyo where he founded two companies (one in advertising, the other in branding and human relations) with friends, he looked forward to teatime. 'I was very busy and whenever I felt exhausted, I always made myself a cup of hot matcha,' said Sudo. 'I love matcha,' he reiterated. FROM BRANDING TO BREWING This affection for tea led him to swop his fast-paced life in Tokyo to become an advocate for the Japanese tea industry. It started when Sudo was working on an advertising project for a big tea company. 'I was helping to promote its tea products, but these were matcha sweets and bottled matcha, not [pure] matcha for drinking,' he shared. The frequent tea drinker could not understand why consumers preferred the processed products until a colleague analysed that drinking tea was not in vogue anymore – brewing tea was also time consuming for busy urbanites who regularly had their coffee on the go. Not long after, Sudo chanced upon a farmer's market at Omotesando Station. He struck up a conversation with a tea farmer who bemoaned the industry's decline. 'The farmer didn't want his son to take over his plantation; he wanted him to go to university to work in a big company,' recalled Sudo. Unsure of how to help the farmers who faced challenges due to low demand, he started by supporting the farmer he had met, creating pro bono branding and marketing collateral that highlighted the benefits of tea. It's delicious and very good for health. It also has a long history and culture,' said Sudo. As a drink for relaxation, tea also contains less negative side effects. 'When I drink a few cups of beer or black coffee, I don't feel so good. But two or three cups of tea a day feels okay,' Sudo commented. Despite his efforts, Sudo felt that a quicker remedy was necessary to help the ailing industry. The Eureka moment came when Sudo realised there were few casual, modern places to enjoy a good cup of matcha or tea. Most places serving high-grade matcha were formal venues, such as traditional teahouses. 'There were so many good coffee shops in Japan and also the world, but not many modern teahouses,' he said. 'I wanted people to feel that it's not difficult to enjoy tea, so I opened my shop.' THE RITUAL OF MATCHA Seven years on, modern teahouses and drinking matcha have become trendy. Like Yugen, many of these teahouses pair the drinks with wagashi (traditional Japanese confectionery) and serve them in an aesthetic, kaiseki style. Sudo shared that acquaintances and even coffee shop owners have asked him to teach them how to make a good cup of coffee using the correct steps and techniques. As an intentional, precise ritual, the tea ceremony has become the poster child for the slow living trend – not unlike the pour-over coffee experience. Making matcha forces one to put aside other thoughts in order to focus on the visceral actions of measuring, scooping, pouring, stirring and swirling a chawan. It involves all the senses – sight, sound, smell, touch and taste – with the final sensation being the warm, slightly bitter and umami drink flowing down the throat and warming the stomach. Yugen's success also stems from Sudo's keen business sense. The entrepreneur saw that the steep prices of good-quality matcha discouraged common folk from drinking it on a daily basis. This was partly due to the many entities it takes to get the harvested leaves from the farmer to the customer, with tea-processing factories, and retailers and restaurants in between all adding to the costs. Sudo chanced upon a tea-processing factory that was closing and approached the owner. 'I told him that I was going to start my own business, where people can enjoy tea like in a coffee shop,' said Sudo. He encouraged farmers in Kyoto and Uji to plant good-grade tealeaves before purchasing directly from them and sending them to this particular factory for processing at competitive rates in order to reduce overall prices. 'Now he is very, very busy,' chuckled Sudo on the factory owner. Drawing on his creative background, he packaged Yugen's tea in attractive, minimal casing with clear graphics. Sudo also created four original blends, simplified into Matcha #01 to #03. The higher the number, the better the grade. For instance, #01, which is mixes five leaf types, is a light tea blend; its natural sweetness makes it a popular choice for everyday drinking and making matcha wagashi. Meanwhile, blend #3 mixes Asahi and Samidor tea leaves, and is typically enjoyed as a koicha (thicker tea) using a larger amount of matcha powder. Each packaging come with information on the tea's origins, picking methods and tealeaf varieties, as well as information on how to brew a cup. In the same spirit of education, Yugen's website provides detailed instructions on how to brew the different teas and blends. For instance – the first brew of sencha requires four to six grams of tea leaves per 1,000 ml of hot water at 85 degrees Fahrenheit for 90 seconds. View this post on Instagram A post shared by YUGEN (@yugen_kyoto) On the increasing popularity of drinking matcha, Sudo believes that the COVID-19 pandemic was a catalyst. 'During COVID, people started caring more about their health. They realised tea can help them become more resistant to viruses so they drank more. Aside from having a lot of nutrition, tea also makes one more relaxed. So now many people make matcha to drink, not just make matcha ice cream or sweets,' observed Sudo. He is most happy for the farmers, many of whom were initially only interested in growing quantity, not quality. 'But now, it's different. The farmers try to improve in their jobs, learning how to grow good tea leaves,' said Sudo proudly. BUSINESS WITH PURPOSE In Singapore, Yugen is served in some Japanese fine-dining restaurants. Japanese cafe Kurasu also uses Yugen's single-origin variety matcha known as Okumidori to make its matcha latte, matcha latte espresso and ceremonial matcha that is whisked using the usucha (classic matcha) method. Beyond making tea-drinking fuss-free and offering good tea at affordable prices, Sudo believes that Yugen offers something 'meaningful'. Back in Tokyo, his businesses were thriving and he had fun running them, but he had questioned if they brought meaning to his life. As long as Yugen brings positivity to the lives of the people who consume the teas or matcha, Sudo is grateful. Now, he is applying the same approach to supporting related craftsmen and ateliers, whose fate was suffering alongside the declining tea industry. These include those who make metal tea scoops, chawan pottery, glass bowls and so on. Sudo contemplated that if they are more affordable priced and well made – just like the matcha – more people can purchase them and use them at home. 'There are many expensive [crafts] but there are also many that are not so expensive but still of high quality,' said Sudo, whose shop sells many of these intricate pieces. This was why in 2022, he moved Yugen from the more touristy Kawaramachi area to a quieter location near the Kyoto Imperial Palace. It is also much bigger with a cafe on the first floor, a gallery for changing exhibits on the second, and a retail space on the third. While I was there in September 2024, the gallery was exhibiting the works of glass artist Aki Sakaida. 'Tourist areas are good for business but I moved here so people can enjoy a slower, calmer teatime, and see these handicrafts and artisanal objects,' said Sudo. The interiors have a wabi sabi aesthetic, with paint stripped from the concrete surfaces. Marks and stains of time are streaked and scratched across the grey walls. Resin coats the raw cement floor on the upper levels to capture the memory of the rain-glossed floor Sudo encountered on his first visit to the building. Panels of translucent fabric draped along the floor like the ends of dresses, contrasting the beton brut (raw concrete). A SPACE TO SLOW DOWN After our interview, I took a long time to peruse the store on the third storey. There are Goto Yohei's coloured glassware, ceramics from Nishi Takayuki's Blade series with sky-blue glaze frozen in mid-drip, Miyo Oyabu's glass plates and bowls with bubbling from the glass-making process that forms unique shadows with sunlight, Akira Arakawa's glass pitchers and dishes and teapots by Saori Yamazaki with a distinct black lacquer. Sudo recommended not treating the objects like precious displays but that they are used daily as they were originally intended. This also increases the attachment between user and object. Sudo uses many of these pieces in the teahouse. While making matcha for me, he greeted a customer. It was a friend from Tokyo who is a model-turned-skincare brand founder. She had her matcha, a plate of wagashi and a short chat with Sudo before continuing her day. I got the feeling that regulars come to Yugen for that homely feeling, the sense that every process is cared for – much like what Sudo experienced as a child when his mother made him his daily matcha. In traditional Japanese aesthetics, 'yugen' refers to a kind of subtle gracefulness too deep and overwhelming to put into words. Perched on my shadowed spot at Yugen, sipping my delicious, warm matcha tenderly brewed for me, no words were needed.
