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The Independent
29-04-2025
- The Independent
Bohemian Tbilisi is not to be missed – here are the six best things to do in the Georgian capital
Four times a week, the BA Airbus A320 leaves London Heathrow at 9.25pm. Midnight comes as flight BA890 crosses German airspace into Austria, local time. At this point, the plane is barely a quarter of its way into its journey to the Georgian capital. But the advantage of taking the five-hour flight is that, with the three-hour time difference, you arrive at the start of a new day in a new land. Georgia, a small country located on the crossroads of Europe and Asia, is home to the world's earliest known sites of winemaking. The country has a diverse geography, from the Black Sea coast to the west, to the Caucasus Mountains running through the north and south of the country. Running through it is the Mtkvari River (also known as the Kura), which flows through Tbilisi. The capital dates back to the fifth century AD, and has a diverse architectural landscape reflecting its turbulent history – including medieval, neoclassical and Soviet eras. Thinking of visiting? These are my highlights. 1. Meidan Bazaar Tbilisi has been a trading point for centuries, located along the Silk Road where Europe, Russia, Central Asia and Persia converge. At the heart of the cobblestoned Old Town, the ancient district of Kala is home to the bazaar, the oldest trade centre in the Caucasus region, dating back 1,500 years. The bazaar has been updated and moved underground. But this shopping area still hosts an expansive range of local products: Georgian wines, elaborate ceremonial swords, traditional pottery and churchkhela – the local sweet treat, comprising strings of nuts that have been dipped into concentrated grape juice. 2. Georgian Museum of Fine Arts Located directly opposite the Georgian Parliament along the historic Rustaveli Avenue, this private modern art museum opened in 2018 and houses more than 3,500 works by 100-plus Georgian artists. The museum was founded by the Jokhtaberidze family, founders of the nation's largest telecom firm, with the aim of collecting, restoring and preserving Georgian art. The museum tells the stories of artists during the Soviet rule of Georgia who were often ostracised for their work. The museum hosts major exhibitions – including Banksy in 2023 – so further surprises may be in store. Unusually for a national art museum, the adjoining Art House consists of two restaurants, a fitness club and swimming pool. 3. Chronicles of Georgia Created in 1985 by sculptor Zurab Tsereteli, this monument is located on the Keeni Mountain, presiding over the north of the city. The Chronicles of Georgia commemorates the 3,000 year history of Georgia, detailing the history and religion of the country and is now one of the most popular tourist attractions of Tbilisi. The Brutalist monument features 16 pillars standing up to 35m high and explains distinct parts of Georgian heritage, including significant religious and historical events. Despite commencing during Soviet rule, the monument remains unfinished. Along the upper half of the pillars depicts the history of Georgia including its kings, queens and national heroes. The lower part of the pillars depicts stories and parables from the New Testament. There is little context whilst at the Chronicles, however, but the sheer scale of the pillars is breathtaking. The complex also hosts a small chapel next to the monument, offering excellent views over the city. It overlooks the 'Tbilisi Sea', a lake within walking distance of the Chronicles. 4. Clock tower and Gabriadze Puppet Theatre A crooked clock tower, built in 2010, fronts a marionette theatre within the Old Town of Tbilisi. The clock tower has an angel striking a bell every hour, and was designed by the Georgian artist and playwright, Rezo Gabriadze, to become a tourist attraction for Tbilisi. The clock is a compelling piece of art, with intrinsic detailing and quirky designs to appear much older than it really is. The adjoining Gabriadze Theatre hosts puppet performances portraying stories from Georgia's past. I witnessed a performance of 'Romana', a tale of two Soviet lovestruck trains during the Second World War, when one had to go war and the other had to remain in the sidings. It was full of Georgian heritage, humour and expression. Performances are in Georgian, but there are English subtitles. 5. Chreli Abano Tbilisi gets its name from the Georgian word 'tbili' meaning warm – linking the city to the thermal waters of the city. The 'Sulphur District,' also known as Abanotubani, hosts several bath and spa facilities within the ancient district of the Old Town. The area is characterised by the distinctive sulphur-alkaline springs – with the distinctive odour present whilst walking around alongside the domed bathhouse roofs along the Mtkvari riverbank. Chreli Abano is characterised by its Oriental frontage of colourful tiles and turrets. The interior, containing pools with cold and hot sulphurous water, is equally extravagant. 6. Cuisine The most traditional Georgian dish is khachapuri. Predating pizza, this cheese and dough dish can be found throughout the city. The nation celebrates Khachapuri Day every 27 February. Boiled broth-filled dumplings containing meat or vegetables, known as khinkali, are another popular dish. These are relatively large in size, being more than a mouthful, have a twisted top tail and are usually eaten with hands. Kneina, located within walking distance of the Old Town, is a quintessential Georgian family restaurant. The owner shares how the building used to be her family home and has now transformed the space into a split-level restaurant – complete with the original furniture and an old bread oven in the basement. Getting there This summer, two airlines connect London with Tbilisi in the heart of the Caucasian region straddling Europe and Asia. British Airways flies four weekly flights from London Heathrow and easyJet flies twice a week from London Luton. The distance is nearly 2,000 miles. I took British Airways' maiden flight, flown on the A320neo aircraft, with a journey time of five hours and five minutes to reach Tbilisi. Unlike most BA A320 flights, the service includes a complimentary meal and drinks. I stayed at the five-star Radisson Blu Iveria Hotel Tbilisi in the centre of the city. The 236-room hotel has a casino and spa, with good views of Mtatsminda, the city's historic hill, or the river.
Russia Today
22-04-2025
- General
- Russia Today
Russian greatness, American grief, endless love: Honoring the legacy of Russia's most famous sculptor (PHOTOS)
Renowned sculptor and president of the Russian Academy of Arts, Zurab Tsereteli, passed away on the night of April 22 at the age of 91. Over the course of his prolific career, he created more than 5,000 works of art – paintings, graphic works, and monumental sculptures – many of which now stand in major cities around the world. His artistic legacy remains the subject of intense debate, with some of his most prominent works sparking admiration and controversy in equal measure. RT takes a closer look at the artist's journey and his most influential pieces. Born in Tbilisi, Georgia, in 1934, Tsereteli grew up in a family of engineers, but it was his uncle, acclaimed Georgian painter Georgy Nizharadze, who introduced him to the world of art. From a young age, Zurab was surrounded by the vibrant creative circles of Georgia – he listened in awe as artists discussed their work and ideas, and it wasn't long before he knew he wanted to be one of them. Trips to his grandmother's village also left a lasting imprint. The lush colors and textures of rural Georgian life became a wellspring of inspiration, shaping his future artistic style. 'My mother's whole side of the family watched over me,' he once recalled. 'My grandmother was especially wise – so was my aunt. They were both educated in St. Petersburg. When I started drawing, they gave me complete freedom. I painted the floors, everything.' That freedom nurtured a creative spark that would define his career. Tsereteli graduated from the Tbilisi State Academy of Arts in 1958 and began his career at the Georgian Academy of Sciences' Institute of History, Archaeology, and Ethnography. He joined expeditions, worked in restoration, and later took a position as a senior designer at the Georgian Art Fund's production center, where he began experimenting with bronze, stone, glass, wood, and mosaic. He produced large-scale works for public buildings, blending materials and themes with bold ambition. By the 1960s and '70s, his signature mosaics had become iconic features in cities across the Soviet Union—from Georgia and Abkhazia to Russia. One of his landmark pieces from that era was Seabed, a stunning mosaic on a pool floor in Ulyanovsk, unveiled for Lenin's 100th birthday. The work earned him the USSR State Prize and was later recognized as a cultural heritage site. Tsereteli's mosaics won acclaim not just at home but abroad. His monumental installation for a children's resort in Adler drew high praise from Mexican muralist David Alfaro Siqueiros, who saw in Tsereteli a kindred spirit among monumentalists. 'On my own behalf and on behalf of the muralists of Mexico, I congratulate Zurab Tsereteli for the artistic merits of his works in the House of Political Education in Tbilisi and the resort complex in Adler. With great plastic power and creative imagination Zurab Tsereteli comprehends the complex technique of wall painting. I affirm that he has entered the vast expanses of the art of the future, the art that combines sculpture and painting. The work of Zurab Tsereteli has gone beyond the national framework and acquires international meaning,' Siqueiros said. Even earlier, in 1964, Tsereteli traveled to France and met with two giants of modern art – Pablo Picasso and Marc Chagall. The experience left a profound impression. 'My teachers in Georgia spoke of Picasso and Matisse as titans,' he later said. 'We weren't allowed to see their work, but I had. When I found myself in Picasso's studio, I realized that an artist could be a sculptor, a painter, and a graphic artist all at once. Back home, they'd say: 'You're a painter – just paint. A sculptor? Stick to sculpture.' That was the mindset.' He also struck up a friendship with Chagall, who visited him in Moscow years later. 'I saw him for the last time just three months before he died,' Tsereteli recalled. Picasso, for his part, saw great promise in the young Georgian: 'This young artist Zurab has a wonderful beginning. He perfectly feels color, generalizes the form. I see him as a future great painter.' Tsereteli rose swiftly through the ranks of Soviet monumental art. By 1976, he was awarded the prestigious Lenin Prize, and just a few years later, he was named chief artist of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. That same year, he unveiled Man and the Sun, a colossal sculpture nearly 80 meters tall, towering over his hometown of Tbilisi. His first major public commission, however, was Friendship Forever – a monument unveiled in Moscow in 1983 to commemorate the 200th anniversary of Georgia's incorporation into the Russian Empire. The sculpture interlaces the Russian and Georgian alphabets, with the words 'Unity' and 'Brotherhood' subtly woven into the design. At the base are scrolls etched with poetry by Pushkin, Lermontov, and Pasternak. Originally, the work was part of a dual installation. The second half – Bonds of Friendship – stood in Tbilisi. It featured two massive rings representing the intertwined histories of Georgia and Russia, bound together by a gilded metal knot. In 1991, following the collapse of the Soviet Union, the Tbilisi counterpart was destroyed in an explosion. From 1985 to 2003, Tsereteli worked on what would become one of his most ambitious projects: The Chronicle of Georgia, located on a hill overlooking Tbilisi. Sixteen towering columns – each rising between 30 and 35 meters – are carved with images of Georgian kings, queens, and national heroes. Biblical scenes, including episodes from the life of Christ, are depicted on the lower sections. Locals nicknamed it the 'Georgian Stonehenge,' for its solemn grandeur and commanding scale. Years later, Tsereteli would reimagine the concept for his 'second homeland.' In 2017, he unveiled The Alley of Rulers in central Moscow, just off Petrovyerigsky Lane. The open-air installation features 33 bronze busts – Russian emperors, Soviet leaders, and even transitional figures like Prince Georgy Lvov and Alexander Kerensky of the Provisional Government. 'I think The Chronicle of Georgia and The Alley of Rulers are the most important works of my life,' he once said. 'I love Russia and Georgia equally. And so these two works, to me, carry the same weight.' Zurab Tsereteli's work was often met with fierce criticism – but that rarely stopped it from capturing global attention. Perhaps his most controversial creation is also his most famous: the towering 98-meter statue of Peter the Great on the Moskva River. Unveiled in 1997, the monument was immediately polarizing. Rumors circulated that it had originally been a sculpture of Christopher Columbus, repurposed after a failed bid to send it to the US – though no official confirmation ever surfaced. Residents of Moscow demanded that the massive statue be relocated or torn down altogether. Tsereteli, for his part, maintained that citizens had the right to decide whether or not a monument belonged in their city. Still, the sculpture stands to this day – an enduring symbol not only of Tsereteli's style, but of his ability to provoke and persist. In a way, the backlash only fueled its fame. Another piece that sparked public debate was Tragedy of Peoples, a Holocaust memorial in Moscow's Victory Park. Though widely considered Tsereteli's strongest work at that site, the eight-meter-high sculpture was so emotionally intense it unsettled many visitors. At one point, officials even decided to move it deeper into the park to spare passersby. What they hadn't accounted for, however, was the emotional gravity of Tsereteli's work – it resonated so deeply that no matter where it stood, it became part of the park's solemn symphony of remembrance. The larger Victory Park complex had opened a year earlier in 1995, with Tsereteli as its chief artist. His Monument to Victory dominates the site: a 141.8-meter obelisk – each 10 centimeters marking a day of the war. At its peak, a bronze statue of Nike, the goddess of victory, holds a laurel wreath, flanked by angels with trumpets. At the base, a sculpture of Saint George slaying a dragon symbolizes the defeat of fascism. Among his most debated international works was a statue of French President Charles de Gaulle, erected outside Moscow's Hotel Cosmos. Originally intended as a gift to France (who declined it), the sculpture found a home in Russia – but not without mockery. Locals said it resembled not de Gaulle, but the comic French actor Louis de Funès, best known for his role as Commissioner Juve in the Fantômas films. The nickname stuck: they called it 'Louis.' In addition to his large-scale public works, Zurab Tsereteli also created more personal sculptures – including several depictions of political figures. Among them was a bronze statue of Vladimir Putin in a judo uniform, sculpted in 2004 and titled 'A Healthy Mind in a Healthy Body.' Inspired by the Russian president's well-publicized interest in martial arts, the piece was never displayed publicly and remained part of the artist's private collection. In 2011, Tsereteli produced a second statue of Putin in a similar pose, hands resting on his belt. Both works sparked mixed reactions and were ultimately not installed in any official public setting. Tsereteli's reach extended far beyond Russia and Georgia. His works can be found across the globe – in the US, France, Spain, Italy, and beyond. One of his best-known international sculptures is Good Defeats Evil, installed outside the United Nations headquarters in New York in 1990. Crafted from decommissioned Russian SS-20 and American Pershing missiles, the base supports a statue of Saint George slaying a dragon – a visual metaphor for the triumph of peace over the threat of global destruction. In 2006, he completed The Tear of Grief (also known as To the Struggle Against World Terrorism), a 30-meter monument erected in Bayonne, New Jersey, in memory of the victims of 9/11. Suspended within the monument is a 12-meter nickel-plated teardrop. Officially a gift from the Russian people to the United States, the sculpture was unveiled on September 16, 2005, at a ceremony attended by Russian President Vladimir Putin. Another of his international works, Break the Wall of Distrust, was installed in 1990 on Cannon Street in London. The four-meter-tall bronze figure appears to walk through a crumbling wall, leaving behind a cross-shaped silhouette. As Richard Luce, then UK Minister for the Arts, noted, the sculpture 'symbolized a new era of peace, trust, and closer cooperation between East and West.' In 1995, Birth of a New Man was unveiled in Seville, Spain – part of a larger project titled How Europe Discovered America. The 45-meter bronze, copper, and steel sculpture features Christopher Columbus standing with a map in hand inside a domed 'egg' of sails and masts. The sails are etched with Maltese crosses and the names of Columbus's three ships: Santa Maria, Pinta, and Niña. That project's second phase came in 2016, with the unveiling of Birth of the New World in Arecibo, Puerto Rico. At 126 meters, it's one of the tallest statues in the world. The stainless steel, bronze, and copper figure of Columbus stands at the helm of his ship, right arm raised in greeting, with sails and a flowing banner rising behind him. Tsereteli even found a place in the heart of French literature: his bronze tribute to The Three Musketeers was gifted to Gascony – the homeland of the fictional d'Artagnan – at the request of Count Emery de Montesquiou, a descendant of the real-life inspiration for the character. The sculpture was based on the Soviet film adaptation by Georgiy Yungvald-Khilkevich. Actors from the film, including Veniamin Smekhov and Valentin Smirnitsky, attended the unveiling and were inducted alongside Tsereteli into the international Musketeer Society, joining over 600 honorary members from around the world. Tsereteli never stopped. Even in his later years, he kept working from his countryside home, where he had a fully equipped studio. Every day began the same way: morning exercises, then straight into the studio. 'When I work, I sing,' he once said. 'I'm in another world – and it feels good to be there.'
Russia Today
22-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Russia Today
Legendary Russian sculptor dies
Prominent Russian-Georgian artist Zurab Tsereteli, who was the epitome of Russian sculpture, has died at the age of 91, his assistant has announced. According to Sergey Shagulashvili, Tsereteli suffered heart failure at 1:30am on Tuesday in Moscow. Later, his staff said that a farewell service would take place in the iconic Cathedral of Christ the Savior, but he would be buried in his native Georgia. Tsereteli, the president of the Russian Academy of Arts since 1997, was widely regarded as a defining figure in Soviet and Russian monumental art. Among his most recognized works is the towering Peter the Great statue in Moscow. Standing 98 meters (322 feet) tall, the monument was unveiled in 1997 to commemorate 300 years of the Russian Navy. It remains one of the tallest statues in the world. Internationally, Tsereteli is known for 'Good Defeats Evil', a bronze sculpture installed at the United Nations headquarters in New York. The artwork depicts St. George slaying a dragon crafted from fragments of dismantled Soviet and American nuclear-capable missiles, symbolizing the end of the Cold War and victory over the specter of the nuclear Armageddon. Another notable work is the 'Tear of Grief', (also known as 'To the Struggle Against World Terrorism') a 10-story monument in Bayonne, New Jersey, dedicated to the victims of the September 11 attacks. The sculpture features a large stainless-steel teardrop suspended within a cracked tower. It was presented as a gift from Russia and unveiled in 2006. Throughout his career, Tsereteli created more than 5,000 art works that spanned beyond architecture to include paintings and frescoes. He received numerous honors, including the title of People's Artist of the USSR and the French Legion of Honor. Russian Foreign Ministry spokeswoman Maria Zakharova has offered her condolences, describing Tsereteli as 'an artist of international renown and a true public figure who knew no borders or barriers in the cause of peace and creativity.' '[He was] a true people's diplomat. He will live not only in our hearts but also in his works: in the stained glass and enamels decorating embassies, in monuments and sculptures placed around the world, in the lush flowers and bouquets that he painted with such passion. He knew how to love and how to give love,' she added.
Time of India
22-04-2025
- Politics
- Time of India
Zurab Tsereteli, whose monumental works won over Russian elites, dies aged 91
Zurab Tsereteli (File Photo) MOSCOW: Georgian-Russian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli , a politically connected artist known for his monumental yet sometimes divisive works, has died aged 91, Russian news agencies reported Tuesday. He died at his home in Peredelkino, a village southwest of Moscow, "surrounded by his works", his assistant Sergei Shagulashvili told the RIA news agency. Born and trained in Tbilisi, Tsereteli rose to prominence designing resort complexes in then-Soviet Georgia during the 1960s. He became chief artist of the USSR's ministry of foreign affairs and later head of Russia's influential academy of arts, serving in the role from 1997 until his death. Popular with Russia's elite, Tsereteli's friendship with Moscow's mayor Yury Luzhkov in the 1990s gave him what critics called a "monopoly" on public art. He populated the Russian capital with his distinct brand of monumental architecture, earning the wrath of many Russian intellectuals in the process. His giant statue of Peter the Great on a ship on the Moscow River got a tongue-lashing in the press, while a 500-tonne monument to Christopher Columbus built in the early 1990s was rejected by several US cities as a monstrosity. Reverence for Putin Tsereteli is more fondly known for presiding over the reconstruction of Moscow's Cathedral of Christ the Saviour , an Orthodox church meticulously rebuilt in the 1990s after it was demolished by Stalin. Tsereteli also enjoyed brief success in the West during and after the collapse of the Soviet Union, unveiling works that embodied the fall of communism: "Break the Wall of Distrust" in London in 1989 and "Good Defeats Evil" in New York in 1990 -- made partly from the remnants of Soviet and American missiles. Encouraged by this success, he attempted to donate a monument dedicated to the victims of the September 11, 2001 attacks to the city of New York, a giant 30-metre (100-foot) sculpture featuring a teardrop, but the authorities politely declined his offer. The work finally found a home in 2005 in Bayonne, a city of 60,000 in New Jersey, in view of downtown Manhattan across the water. Tsereteli revered President Vladimir Putin, unveiling a five-metre bronze statue of the Russian leader posing in judo gear in 2004. But the piece was so badly received by the Kremlin that a Russian media report quoted an anonymous official as saying it should "not be exhibited anywhere except in the courtyard of the sculptor's own home". "He of all people should know that President Putin has an extremely negative attitude towards such things," the official told the Komsomolskaya Pravda tabloid.
San Francisco Chronicle
22-04-2025
- Politics
- San Francisco Chronicle
Georgian-Russian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli, known for his gigantic and controversial work, dies at 92
MOSCOW (AP) — Zurab Tsereteli, a prominent Georgian-Russian sculptor known for colossal, often controversial, monuments, died early on Tuesday at 92. His assistant Sergei Shagulashvili told Russia's state news agency Tass that Tsereteli suffered cardiac arrest. Tsereteli was born on January 4, 1934, in Georgia, which was part of the Soviet Union at the time, in the capital Tbilisi. In the 1970s, Tsereteli became an art director with the Soviet Foreign Ministry, traveling the world and decorating Soviet embassies. In between, he worked on Mikhail Gorbachev's summer house in Abkhazia. 'I don't know why they chose me,' he said in a 2013 interview. 'But I went through a good school - maybe that's why. A school that synthesised architecture and monumental art! I had good teachers.' In 1989, a monument designed by Tsereteli was erected in London. In 1990, another one was unveiled in front of the United Nations headquarters in New York. After the Soviet Union collapsed in 1991, Tsereteli moved to Moscow and built a rapport with then-mayor Yuri Luzhkov. The relationship guaranteed him regular and lucrative commissions. He designed several squares and two metro stations in central Moscow and put up a dozen massive monuments around the city. Tsereteli's distinctive style prompted much criticism over the years, both in Russia and abroad. Critics argued his pieces were too colossal and didn't fit in the city's architecture. One of his most controversial monuments was in 1997 when a 98-meter-tall Peter the Great standing on a disproportionally small ship was erected a block away from the Kremlin, prompting protests from Muscovites. Tsereteli tried to put up a similar monument of Christopher Columbus in New York. Russian media reported in 1997 that current U.S. President Donald Trump supported his plans at the time, but city authorities rejected them. After being turned down by Columbus, Ohio and Miami as well, the statue found a taker in Puerto Rico. Russian President Vladimir Putin in 2003 awarded Tsereteli Russian citizenship 'for special services to the Russian Federation.' In 2010, Luzhkov was dismissed as Moscow mayor. The new city administration preferred Western architects to work on ambitious urban projects, and Tsereteli was shifted to the sidelines.
