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The world's newest cruise ship – with bold culinary ambitions and a ‘retro edge'
The world's newest cruise ship – with bold culinary ambitions and a ‘retro edge'

Telegraph

time4 days ago

  • Telegraph

The world's newest cruise ship – with bold culinary ambitions and a ‘retro edge'

'I'm French, don't insult me!' retorted Alexis Quaretti, Oceania Cruises' executive culinary director, when I asked if the baguettes served on Allura were bought in. 'For us, bread is a religion,' he asserted during a galley tour, and I concur – said bread is a true delight, especially when generously smeared with salted Normandy butter. Parfait. However when I signed up to be one of the first guests to sail on the 1,200 passenger Allura, I didn't anticipate that emergency dentistry would also be on the schedule. Yet, only a few days into the cruise, I was checking into a dentist in Split, Croatia, to have a loose veneer refitted. Iconic they may be, but those baguettes have a lot to answer for. The line's latest vessel – a sister to Oceania Vista which launched in 2023 – the Italian-built Allura is a beauty. She's luxurious from top to bottom, contemporary but also warm and inviting, with a statement staircase featuring a dazzling split level crystal chandelier, and original artworks adorning the walls. Standard staterooms are 10 per cent larger than competitors and are all outside facing: my light and airy penthouse suite had a five-star feel and came replete with a walk-in wardrobe and roomy bathroom with double vanity sinks. The fact that Allura is mid-size means she's small enough to navigate, but large enough to have lots going on – from destination-inspired talks to sunrise yoga sessions, and original production shows in the theatre. Of course what Oceania Cruises is best known for is its culinary output. And on Allura, there's one chef for every eight guests and 12 diverse dining options, the majority of which are included in your fare – hence the line's claim to have 'The finest cuisine at sea.' But don't just take their word for it. A fellow passenger Alison, from London, told me she was so impressed by the food on Allura that she was already contemplating booking another cruise.'The service is exceptional and every plate is like a work of art – the presentation, the flavours, the service, everything is flawlessly executed,' she enthused. Taste-bud tantalising it may be, but there was a distinct retro edge to my meal in the Grand Dining Room which features more than 270 new recipes: the 'soufflé of the day' had a scent reminiscent of the popcorn served at the fairgrounds I frequented as a child – fluffy in texture, fragranced with vanilla and laced with caramel and pecan nuts, it made me giddy with nostalgia. And who remembers Gino Ginelli ice cream? Similar throwback desserts are available on Allura in the Grand Dining Room including Plombières ice cream – a tutti frutti concoction laced with maraschino liqueur – and Humphry Slocombe's 'After school special,' featuring chocolate potato chips and caramel. Elsewhere the new crêperie serves up sweet treats including crêpes suzette, Belgium waffles and Italian gelato, and was inspired by Alexis' childhood memories of eating crêpes with his grandmother. Grandma's chocolate mousse has also made its debut in the Grand Dining Room, and it's pretty much identical to the dessert Alexis used to dip his finger into back in the day. He told Telegraph Travel: 'We used to make chocolate mousse together when I was four years old. I've handed about 99 per cent of the recipe over to the ship but I held a little back as it's a family secret – only my son and my wife know it.' From casual grazing to a six-course menu paired with Dom Pérignon vintages, there's lots of culinary newness – including 12 Japanese-Peruvian Nikkei dishes at the pan-Asian Red Ginger – on Allura, though Alexis was at pains to point out that guest favourites have been retained too. 'Miso sea bass, lobster pad Thai, duck salad – all the classics will stay here forever. Even when I die they will still be on the menu,' said Alexis. I told Alexis I was sure he wasn't going anywhere anytime soon, and rejoiced that the delicious lobster pad survived together with the line's legendary brunch which features 400 oysters, two kilos of caviar and bottomless mimosas. There's also the opportunity to sharpen your kitchen skills at the Culinary Center. The first ever hands-on cookery school at sea when it launched in 2011, the venue is now found on four of Oceania's ships including Allura – where it has 24 cooking stations and offers more than 60 different classes. 'Whisk it like you mean it!' instructed executive chef Kathryn Kelly as I beat a bowl of batter into submission in an attempt to make a restaurant-worthy crêpe suzette. 'Crêpe batter needs to be pretty thin, between a heavy and a light cream in viscosity – let it rest for a while,' she advised the class. If all this sounds too indulgent for your tastes, healthier alternatives are available at Aquamar Kitchen – a popular hangout serving wellness-inspired energy bowls, avocado toast, omelettes, cold-pressed juices, and for those on the matcha hype, matcha lattes. Overall, it's a brilliant concept, but I was disappointed to discover that the spicy Indian chai tea was made with a tea bag. I attempted to intersperse my excessive eating and drinking by exploring ashore but alas it wasn't to be as the itinerary for my chosen excursion – an electric tuk-tuk tour of Split – had to be modified due to a recent storm. Subsequently our four-person group ended up walking around the heaving old town – something I wouldn't have chosen to do in high season despite Split's good looks – before getting soaked in a sudden downpour en route back to the ship. Here I cheered myself up by drinking one too many Luna cocktails in Founders Bar, before devouring possibly the best herb-roasted lamb rack of my life in signature French restaurant Jacques. Needless to say that I rolled off Allura in Italy's under-the-radar gem, Trieste, at least a couple of kilos heavier. Ever heard the saying 'there is no love sincerer than the love of food'? From fine dining to casual fare, this indulgent sailing certainly delivered on classy cuisine. You may have also heard that cruise calories don't count – don't bet on it. Essentials Rebecca Barnes was a guest of Oceania Cruises (0345 505 1920) which offers a seven-day 'Mediterranean Wayfarer' voyage departing June 6, 2026, from £4,249pp for a veranda stateroom. Includes gratuities, speciality dining, Wi-Fi and laundry services.

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