Latest news with #biomaterials
The Independent
14-07-2025
- Entertainment
- The Independent
A designer dressed Chappell Roan with seaweed. But don't expect to find the approach in stores — yet
At her kitchen stove, fashion designer Caroline Zimbalist looks like an alchemist at work as she stirs a pot full of corn starch and a thickener made from seaweed. The peppermint-scented mixture glitters as she carefully pours it into silicone molds of hearts and leaves. When the material hardens, Zimbalist will stitch it into unique, made-to-order dresses that she sells on her website. She hopes her designs, which have been worn by celebrities including Chappell Roan, will put a spotlight on materials that aren't sourced from planet-polluting fossil fuels, such as oil. 'It's almost like a vessel to show the world,' she said. Other small-scale designers are testing out tapioca, gelatin and other kitchen-shelf ingredients. Meanwhile, big names such as Adidas and Hermes have experimented with mushroom leather, while the Lycra brand is incorporating a new largely corn-based material into stretch fabric. Some experts are skeptical that these textiles — commonly referred to as biomaterials — will go mainstream, but designers such as Zimbalist hope their experiments will set an example for larger brands to follow. Over 60% of clothing comes from petroleum-based synthetics like polyester, according to Textile Exchange, a nonprofit that promotes sustainable fashion. Manufacturing those materials creates emissions. Synthetic garments can also shed microplastics during washing. And as fast-fashion brands pump out new clothes for customers who expect new designs every few weeks, many garments end up in landfills. Zimbalist's designs gained attention in 2024 when Roan wore one on 'The Tonight Show.' The dress was decorated with a seaweed derivative called carrageenan. The New York-based designer has since dressed stars such as Atsuko Okatsuka, Anna Lore and Reneé Rapp. She takes commissions for custom clothing pieces, which cost between $150 and $1,200, via her website, which notes her 'unique recipe of biodegradable and natural materials." As to whether her approach could be reproduced at a larger scale, Zimbalist says her materials could most practically be used to replace plastic hardware such as buttons and zippers. She acknowledges they can be sticky if not dried correctly, stinky if not treated and melty if exposed to extreme heat. 'Even incorporating it in small ways to start would be really strong,' she said. Why biomaterials are hard to find Fossil-fuel derived fabrics are ubiquitous because they're cheap and made from plentiful raw materials, said Dale Rogers, an Arizona State University professor who studies supply chains. Many clothes are also made of materials that come from plants or animals such as cotton, silk, wool and cashmere. But some have environmental impacts. Cotton uses a lot of water. Sheep and goats burp out methane. Some biomaterials have gotten closer to widespread use. Mycelium leather, made from mushrooms, has been used to create luxury shoes, accessories and handbags by brands such as Stella McCartney, Lululemon, Adidas and Hermes. Still, Rogers said he's not convinced there's enough demand for alternative materials to overcome companies' aversion to the higher costs of producing them at a large scale. 'Honestly, in the end, cost drives almost all decisions,' he said. Wrinkles in aiming for sustainability Getting larger companies to use alternative materials depends on whether they will pay more for a fabric that matches their values, said Jon Veldhouse, the CEO of Qore LLC. His company makes a product called Qira that replaces about 70% of the fossil-derived components of elastic synthetic fabrics with a corn-based material. The Lycra Company, which sells its stretchy material to major brands, initially expects to incorporate Qira in around 25 percent of its Spandex business, said Lycra chief brand and innovation officer Steve Stewart. But that option will be more expensive, and they haven't yet announced any takers. It can also be hard to measure the sustainability of farming practices that go into producing raw materials for new fabrics. Cargill is Qore's partner and corn supplier, and it gets its grain from farmers in the vicinity of their processing plant. Veldhouse said many already plant cover crops or reduce tilling to lower environmental impact, but he couldn't provide data on how many use those approaches. Sarah Needham, a senior director at Textile Exchange, said it's great to see a large organization such as Lycra making its production systems more sustainable. But she also stressed the industry needs to reduce its overreliance on virgin materials, perhaps considering agricultural waste as a source of fabric. The role of experimental designers Needham said experimental designers are often the ones coming up with those alternatives to virgin materials and building appetite for new approaches. But small designers might not have the resources to test the biodegradability of their materials, which often do involve processing, even if it's by hand, said Ramani Narayan, an engineering professor at Michigan State University. 'If I take something — like seaweed or whatever it is — and I apply a process to it, then I can no longer call it natural," he said. Zimbalist, the New York designer, acknowledges that her materials aren't ready to replace conventional fabrics and that her work is more of 'a piece that leads to larger conversations.' Rogers, of Arizona State, thinks the fashion industry is a long way from meaningful change, but that 'it's incredibly valuable" for artists and specialty manufacturers to try new materials. 'What they're doing is likely to have long-term benefit, maybe even after their lifetimes,' he added. ___ Follow Melina Walling on X @MelinaWalling and Bluesky @ Follow Kiki Sideris on X @KikiSideris. ___ The Associated Press' climate and environmental coverage receives financial support from multiple private foundations. AP is solely responsible for all content. Find AP's standards for working with philanthropies, a list of supporters and funded coverage areas at
Associated Press
14-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Associated Press
A designer dressed Chappell Roan with seaweed. But don't expect to find the approach in stores — yet
NEW YORK (AP) — At her kitchen stove, fashion designer Caroline Zimbalist looks like an alchemist at work as she stirs a pot full of corn starch and a thickener made from seaweed. The peppermint-scented mixture glitters as she carefully pours it into silicone molds of hearts and leaves. When the material hardens, Zimbalist will stitch it into unique, made-to-order dresses that she sells on her website. She hopes her designs, which have been worn by celebrities including Chappell Roan, will put a spotlight on materials that aren't sourced from planet-polluting fossil fuels, such as oil. 'It's almost like a vessel to show the world,' she said. Other small-scale designers are testing out tapioca, gelatin and other kitchen-shelf ingredients. Meanwhile, big names such as Adidas and Hermes have experimented with mushroom leather, while the Lycra brand is incorporating a new largely corn-based material into stretch fabric. Some experts are skeptical that these textiles — commonly referred to as biomaterials — will go mainstream, but designers such as Zimbalist hope their experiments will set an example for larger brands to follow. Over 60% of clothing comes from petroleum-based synthetics like polyester, according to Textile Exchange, a nonprofit that promotes sustainable fashion. Manufacturing those materials creates emissions. Synthetic garments can also shed microplastics during washing. And as fast-fashion brands pump out new clothes for customers who expect new designs every few weeks, many garments end up in landfills. Zimbalist's designs gained attention in 2024 when Roan wore one on 'The Tonight Show.' The dress was decorated with a seaweed derivative called carrageenan. The New York-based designer has since dressed stars such as Atsuko Okatsuka, Anna Lore and Reneé Rapp. She takes commissions for custom clothing pieces, which cost between $150 and $1,200, via her website, which notes her 'unique recipe of biodegradable and natural materials.' As to whether her approach could be reproduced at a larger scale, Zimbalist says her materials could most practically be used to replace plastic hardware such as buttons and zippers. She acknowledges they can be sticky if not dried correctly, stinky if not treated and melty if exposed to extreme heat. 'Even incorporating it in small ways to start would be really strong,' she said. Why biomaterials are hard to find Fossil-fuel derived fabrics are ubiquitous because they're cheap and made from plentiful raw materials, said Dale Rogers, an Arizona State University professor who studies supply chains. Many clothes are also made of materials that come from plants or animals such as cotton, silk, wool and cashmere. But some have environmental impacts. Cotton uses a lot of water. Sheep and goats burp out methane. Some biomaterials have gotten closer to widespread use. Mycelium leather, made from mushrooms, has been used to create luxury shoes, accessories and handbags by brands such as Stella McCartney, Lululemon, Adidas and Hermes. Still, Rogers said he's not convinced there's enough demand for alternative materials to overcome companies' aversion to the higher costs of producing them at a large scale. 'Honestly, in the end, cost drives almost all decisions,' he said. Wrinkles in aiming for sustainability Getting larger companies to use alternative materials depends on whether they will pay more for a fabric that matches their values, said Jon Veldhouse, the CEO of Qore LLC. His company makes a product called Qira that replaces about 70% of the fossil-derived components of elastic synthetic fabrics with a corn-based material. The Lycra Company, which sells its stretchy material to major brands, initially expects to incorporate Qira in around 25 percent of its Spandex business, said Lycra chief brand and innovation officer Steve Stewart. But that option will be more expensive, and they haven't yet announced any takers. It can also be hard to measure the sustainability of farming practices that go into producing raw materials for new fabrics. Cargill is Qore's partner and corn supplier, and it gets its grain from farmers in the vicinity of their processing plant. Veldhouse said many already plant cover crops or reduce tilling to lower environmental impact, but he couldn't provide data on how many use those approaches. Sarah Needham, a senior director at Textile Exchange, said it's great to see a large organization such as Lycra making its production systems more sustainable. But she also stressed the industry needs to reduce its overreliance on virgin materials, perhaps considering agricultural waste as a source of fabric. The role of experimental designers Needham said experimental designers are often the ones coming up with those alternatives to virgin materials and building appetite for new approaches. But small designers might not have the resources to test the biodegradability of their materials, which often do involve processing, even if it's by hand, said Ramani Narayan, an engineering professor at Michigan State University. 'If I take something — like seaweed or whatever it is — and I apply a process to it, then I can no longer call it natural,' he said. Zimbalist, the New York designer, acknowledges that her materials aren't ready to replace conventional fabrics and that her work is more of 'a piece that leads to larger conversations.' Rogers, of Arizona State, thinks the fashion industry is a long way from meaningful change, but that 'it's incredibly valuable' for artists and specialty manufacturers to try new materials. 'What they're doing is likely to have long-term benefit, maybe even after their lifetimes,' he added. ___ Follow Melina Walling on X @MelinaWalling and Bluesky @ Follow Kiki Sideris on X @KikiSideris. ___ The Associated Press' climate and environmental coverage receives financial support from multiple private foundations. AP is solely responsible for all content. Find AP's standards for working with philanthropies, a list of supporters and funded coverage areas at
Irish Times
10-07-2025
- Health
- Irish Times
Biomaterials and ‘brains in a dish' for future treatments
What is your line of work? All of my research is about the brain. I have two main lines of research in my lab. In one, we are developing ways to test how mechanical forces and drugs affect brain cells. We grow the brain cells in the lab and see how they behave under various conditions. The other is research on an approach we call TrapKill, which uses a biomaterial that we are engineering with the hope to make therapies for brain cancer more effective. My work applies engineering in medicine, and I have a joint appointment in the medicine and engineering schools here at the University of Galway and I work in Cúram, which is the Research Ireland Centre for Medical Devices. TrapKill is a dramatic name – tell us more about it TrapKill is a type of material called a hydrogel, which can be put into the body. We make it with three-dimensional channels in it that are designed to trap and compress cells. READ MORE The ultimate idea is that after a brain tumour, such as glioblastoma, is removed by surgery, the gel could be placed in the cavity to weaken the trapped cancer cells and make them more susceptible to radiation and drug treatments. I got funding for this project from the European Research Council. You also grow 'brains in a dish' – can you explain? We programme commercially available stem cells to grow into brains from the cortical region, particularly. Still, we can also combine them with other brain regions. I got national funding for this project through Research Ireland and Cúram. What do you do with these groups of brain cells? For some of them, we look at what happens when force is applied to them. This helps us to better understand how cells could respond to traumatic brain injury. We also look at how the groups of cells respond to each other. For example, if we combine cells from different brain regions, we see faster development of star-shaped cells called astrocytes that carry out many functions in the brain. How did you become interested in research? Growing up in Medellín, Colombia, my parents were a huge inspiration. My father is a pharmaceutical chemist, and my mother is a retired bacteriologist. I loved visiting their labs as a child, and they inspired in me the persistence and rigour that are important for research. They still inspire me. What was your journey to Galway? I studied in Colombia, the United States, Italy and France, and I completed my PhD with Dr Manus Biggs in Galway. I then worked in the UK for a few years before returning to Cúram in 2022 and establishing my own lab here. What keeps you going in your research? I really love it. It's hard work, the hours are long and you are always thinking about it, but I have a huge passion for research. I see so many people now who are living with cancer and brain diseases, and these are areas where we need research for even better treatments. This keeps me going. What do you like to do outside of research? I do reformer Pilates religiously, which keeps me strong and flexible. It's a great antidote to all the sitting down and writing I do as part of my research. I love walking around and painting. I also have lovely plants that I take care of.
Yahoo
09-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Spiber Inc. and Iris van Herpen Unite for a Visionary Collaboration at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week AW2025
YAMAGATA, Japan, July 9, 2025 /PRNewswire/ -- At the forefront of high fashion and biomaterial innovation, Japanese biotech venture Spiber, a pioneer in man-made protein fiber, and acclaimed Dutch haute couture designer Iris van Herpen together unveiled one of the designer's two bridal looks during Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025. This partnership represents a powerful dialogue between science and art—two pioneering voices united by a shared aspiration to redefine the future of fashion. Both founded in 2007, Spiber and Iris van Herpen have followed parallel paths of radical experimentation: Spiber in biomaterial engineering, and Van Herpen in avant-garde couture design. Their collaboration signals a deep philosophical alignment, where creativity, technology, and sustainability are not separate pursuits, but interconnected forces shaping a new material narrative. This shared belief is grounded in a common source of inspiration: nature. While Van Herpen draws from the forms, rhythms, and intelligence of the natural world in her designs, Spiber engineers entirely new proteins by designing DNA based on examples found in nature such as spider silk, cashmere fibers, silk cocoons, and more. The result is a new class of material, one not found in the natural world, yet containing the fingerprints of its underlying logic. "Biomimicry is ever-present in Spiber's approach and that is truly similar to our own methods. Fusing the organic with the innovative, recreating nature's way of making a material, starting with a protein… Spiber has been able to translate a complex technology to meet the needs of designers and create something truly wearable, which is a rare quality. I feel Brewed Protein™ fiber brings a lightness and a softness that I am looking for, resulting in fabric that floats around the skin. It has a very attractive, organic, and natural presence which is embodied in the whole look. The Spiber team and I share the same attention to detail and texture—the sensorial qualities of the material." – Iris van Herpen Spiber's Brewed Protein™ fiber is the only man-made protein fiber to be successfully industrialized, positioning the company as a global leader in biomaterials for fashion and beyond. The material forms the foundation of the bridal look, where sheer organza is cut in gradient-sized moonshapes and heatbonded to the laser cut Brewed Protein™ fabric bonings. Hundreds of white coral petals are then stitched upwards onto a nude illusion tulle, spiralling down into a translucent twisted train. "At Spiber, we believe in the expressive power of materials—their ability to tell stories, to inspire emotion, and to redefine our relationship with nature. Working with Iris van Herpen, whose designs go beyond the physical to evoke the beauty of life's complexity, has resulted in an extraordinary manifestation of our mutual values. Our Brewed Protein™ fiber was born from the same curiosity that drives Iris's work: a desire to explore the boundaries of what is possible when we look to nature for questions, without focusing solely on answers. This collaboration reflects a vision of fashion that is both sensorial and systemic, where fabrics are not just worn, but experienced, and where innovation arises from a deep sensitivity and curiosity toward the living world. We're honored to be part of this moment, and hope it marks the beginning of a new paradigm in how we create, feel, and evolve with the materials around us." – Kazuhide Sekiyama, Spiber Co-founder and Representative Executive Officer The artisan bridal look is more than a moment on the runway—it is a statement of possibility. Both Van Herpen and Spiber believe that collaboration across disciplines is essential to addressing the complex challenges facing fashion and the environment. Their work together serves as an artistic and technological blueprint for future innovation. Looking towards the future, Spiber and Van Herpen hope that this is only the beginning. Their teams will explore new possibilities with a shared ambition to continue pushing the boundaries of material innovation and reimagining what fashion can be. Spiber Inc. Established in 2007, Spiber is a biotech venture company based in Yamagata, Japan. Dedicated to creating innovative solutions that contribute to sustainable well-being, Spiber has developed a new material solution inspired by nature's diversity and circularity: the "Brewed Protein™" material platform. By harnessing the power of precision fermentation, Spiber engineers proteins at the molecular level, resulting in versatile materials that can be tailored to specific needs. This innovative solution opens up new possibilities for sustainable and high-performance materials in various industries, including apparel, food, automotives, and more. Spiber website: Spiber is a trademark or a registered trademark of Spiber Inc. in Japan and other countries. Brewed Protein™ is a trademark or a registered trademark of Spiber Inc. in Japan and other countries. Brewed Protein™ fiber A premium, plant-based material produced using Spiber's fermentation (brewing) technology, providing a circular solution and pioneering a new category of protein fibers. Due to its plant-based ingredients and resource-efficient production process, Brewed Protein™ fiber has the potential to significantly reduce environmental and animal welfare impacts compared to traditional materials. Iris van Herpen Since its establishment in 2007 and its prestigious membership in the Fédération de la Haute Couture in 2010, the Maison of Iris van Herpen has consistently combined innovative techniques with traditional Couture craftsmanship, resulting in sensorial designs that beautifully capture the intricacy and diversity of the natural world. View original content to download multimedia: SOURCE Spiber Inc. Error in retrieving data Sign in to access your portfolio Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data
Yahoo
05-07-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Material World: MycoWorks Melds Reishi and Danish Design in Nordic Light
Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering news from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers. Lululemon has expanded its partnership with Samsara Eco, entering a 10-year offtake agreement with the Australian biotechnology startup to source its recycled raw materials. More from Sourcing Journal Polartec® Alpha™ Celebrates 13 Years of Game-Changing Active Insulation Material World: Suzano Sells Woodspin Shares to Spinnova Material World: NC State Research Says Merino is All Wool and No Shoddy This long-term contract could see Samsara Eco's materials constitute approximately 20 percent of Lululemon's overall fibers portfolio—and advance its progress toward 'making more products with preferred materials by 2030.' 'Scaling circular materials requires bold partnerships and a shared commitment to rethinking how our industry operates. [This] partnership is a powerful example of what's possible when innovation meets collaboration,' said Ted Dagnese, chief supply chain officer at Lululemon. 'As we work toward our 2030 impact goals, we're taking a diversified approach—investing in multiple partnerships to advance solutions and help reduce our reliance on fossil-fuel derived resources.' Last year, Lululemon launched the Packable Anorak, the brand's first product made with enzymatically recycled polyester, created in partnership with the enviro-tech startup. Samsara Eco's technology employs engineered enzymes to break down plastic into its original building blocks to be reintegrated into existing manufacturing processes and create new products. 'Our expanded partnership with Lululemon represents a strong step forward to help create a fully circular ecosystem and further highlights the industry's commitment to transition to more circular materials,' said Paul Riley, founder and CEO of Samsara Eco. 'The technology to make circular materials is not a pipe dream—it is here, ready for adoption by forward-thinking companies.' Samsara Eco shared plans on opening a plant in Jerrabomberra, New South Wales, focused on scaling its proprietary EosEco enzyme platform, with an international commercial facility set to launch in 2028, expanding global supply capacity. Biomaterials technology company MycoWorks will present a new collection—dubbed 'Reishi in the Nordic Light,' co-created with Danish designers and curated by Marie-Louise Høstbo—at this year's 3 Days of Design in Copenhagen. 'By introducing Reishi, we have redefined how we engage with materials,' Høstbo said. 'This project creates a dialogue between heritage and innovation—honoring Danish design traditions while daring to explore the profound possibilities that a new material like Reishi presents.' Copenhagen-based design studio Frederik Gustav used Reishi in its 'Arbor' suspension light, fusing the material with steel frames to 'create a dialogue between organic form and industrial design.' 'Working with Reishi challenged us to respect the material's organic properties,' Frederik Gustav said. 'Its dual nature—robust yet delicate—guided us in creating a lighting piece that is both structurally sound and visually evocative, perfectly echoing the serene quality of Nordic light.' Copenhagen-based cross-disciplinary design- and architecture practice Atelier Axo introduced a reconfigurable wall lamp merging metal and Reishi with 'ingenious assembly methods,' resulting in the Eaves Lamp. 'Engaging with mycelium introduced a dynamic interplay between control and organic evolution,' Atelier Axo said. 'By allowing the material to lead the creative process, we discovered new aesthetics that celebrate imperfection as a source of unique character and innovation.' Design firm OEO Studio crafted the 'Centurio' lamp using Reishi to 'unite minimalist sensibility with material expressiveness.' 'At OEO Studio, we don't merely design objects—we craft experiences,' OEO Studio said. 'With Reishi, we fuse the timeless minimalism of Scandinavian heritage with groundbreaking material innovation, creating pieces that transform both space and perception.' Florida-based brand Shapellx has dropped OceanHug: a seamless shapewear collection with intimates and outerwear using a first-of-its-kind fabric. Made from 'ocean protein recycled nylon,' the OceanHug material reduces harmful bacteria growth by 2.56 percent and is moisture-wicking and soft to the touch. 'As sustainability becomes a top priority for both brands and consumers, Shapellx is proud to lead with innovative materials like oyster protein that combine environmental responsibility with performance- enhancing benefits,' said Shane Shi, vice president of Shapellx. 'We're committed to delivering more sustainable alternatives without compromising on quality or comfort. OceanHug is just the beginning.' Shapellx said every OceanHug piece gives 'new purpose' to 33 oyster shells, as the discards are integrated into the fabric. As of last month, Shapellx reported that over 960,814 discarded oyster shells have been 'transformed.' The T-shirt bra is 65 percent oyster protein recycled nylon, 28 percent nylon, and 7 percent spandex. The camisole features 64 percent ocean protein recycled nylon, 27 percent nylon, and 9 percent spandex. The bodysuit features 61 percent oyster protein recycled nylon, 26 percent nylon, and 13 percent spandex. The brief underwear features 58 percent modal, 26 percent nylon, 9 percent spandex, and 7 percent cotton. The lineup retails for $9-$54 and is available in the shades baby blue, lavender pink and oyster white, among others. Performance foam manufacturer Dahsheng Chemical (DSC) sponsored the 17th annual Portland Track Festival last weekend, providing insoles—the Dreamcell PX23 and Durapontex e25—to athletes at the two-day event. 'We appreciate DSC continuing to support the Portland Track Festival and their commitment to engage with local athletes,' said Michael Bergmann, board member and spokesperson of the Portland Track Festival. 'These world-class middle and long-distance athletes offer invaluable feedback that helps DSC refine and elevate its performance products.' 'This year marks 80 years of innovation at DSC, and we are honored to support the Portland Track Festival once again,' said Johnson Chang, CEO of DSC. 'Our mission has always been to design products that meet athletes' highest performance demands. With our ultra-high performance Dreamcell and Durapontex insoles, we're proud to help athletes power through the finish line—and beyond.' The Dreamcell PX23 is engineered with high resilience, open-cell PU foam to deliver a 50 percent performance rebound. The Durapontex e25 is a next-generation closed-cell foam material developed using DSC's proprietary supercritical fluid foaming technology. Outdoor lifestyle apparel brand Royal Robbins' has added to its Mosquito Protection Technology (MPT) apparel collection. MPT is a tightly woven, engineered fabric that acts as a robust barrier to mosquitoes. Royal Robbins' MPT shirts and pants are made with recycled polyester and without chemical repellents or biocides. In 2023, Royal Robbins partnered with Raleigh-based research organization Vector Textiles to test MPT fabrics over the course of 12 months. Based on 'results of multiple controlled laboratory tests,' all fabrics perform well in providing adequate protection from mosquitoes without the use of chemicals or pesticides, the company said. MPT demonstrated 92 percent effectiveness in preventing mosquito bites. 'As a brand born in Yosemite, we continue to focus on versatile and innovative gear that is comfortable and environmentally conscious,' said Erik Burbank, brand president at Royal Robbins. 'Crafted to enable, we believe the Spring/Summer 2026 line will resonate with the adventurer in all of us.'
