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Condé Nast Traveler
15-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Condé Nast Traveler
How to Eat Your Way Through Penang, Malaysia—Asia's Most Exciting Food Destination
Tendrils of steam curl out of the bread basket, spreading a warm, yeasty scent as my server unfurls the linen cover to reveal a plump kind of sourdough with a golden-brown crust. The slices fall apart, airy, with a honeycomb-like crumb. Nearby sits a saucer holding what looks like a peak-summer tomato. With a deft move I don't anticipate, the server cleaves it in two; it's actually butter. 'Go on,' she says. 'Try it.' I spread it onto a slice—a Rorschach blot of red and yellow—but when I take my first bite, the flavor is nothing like bread and butter. Instead I taste a South Indian dosa and a ground tomato chutney flavored with curry leaf and coconut oil, like the kind my Indian mother makes. It feels like sorcery. When Au Jardin opened in 2018, in a former bus depot in Penang, a small state up the coast from Kuala Lumpur, it was a pioneer in presenting local flavors with sharp European technique. In 2022 it was one of four establishments in Malaysia to receive the country's first Michelin stars, and remains one of Penang's leading fine-dining restaurants. From my perch at the chef's counter, I watch Kim Hock Su, Au Jardin's bun-wearing chef-owner, silently coax ingredients into works of art. Dishes come out beautifully plated on local ceramic dishware: a Penang river prawn served with a chile crab caviar; a beet from the nearby Cameron Highlands, salt-baked and finished with a horseradish emulsion. Su's technique is unmistakably French—as his perfectly executed Pithivier makes clear—but he's a proud Penangite. The thosai (dosa in Tamil) bread I began my meal with is more than a sleight of hand: It is a love letter to Su's multicultural hometown. A mural behind the street vendor Penang Road Famous Teochew Chendul depicts a customer enjoying the stall's famous dessert. Lauryn Ishak The entrance of the hotel Cheong Fatt Tze, or The Blue Mansion, a historic hotel loved for its distinctive indigo blue exterior Lauryn Ishak Visitors come to George Town, the state's capital, on the island of Penang, to seek out the iconic murals secreted in its warren of narrow streets; to duck in and out of the pastel-hued shophouses with their European and Chinese influences; and to stay at the lavish boutique hotels in restored buildings. But food is the biggest draw. On nearly every street corner, there is a great meal that reflects Penang's mosaic of ethnic influences—the result of waves of immigration that peaked in the 18th and 19th centuries. Penang was a prominent British trading post, and its position in the Straits of Malacca drew merchants and laborers of all descents: Chinese, Indian, Burmese, Arab, European. Cultures mingled, and so did dishes and cooking methods, forming a complex cuisine called Peranakan, or Nyonya, which still fills the air with the scents of tamarind and nutmeg and the clanging sounds of utensils against steaming woks. But among its old warehouses and fraying shophouses, a modern culinary movement is afoot. For years Penang's brightest talents left for foodie cities like Singapore or Hong Kong. Now, encouraged by a new generation of curious, well-traveled Penangites, many of whom chose to return home during the pandemic years, chefs like Su are also moving back after successful stints abroad. The result is a restaurant scene that, as Su puts it, 'contributes to the identity of Penang as a serious food destination.' Street fare still rules, but now thoughtful, refined dining is close behind. Pickled fruits at Chowrasta Market, a historic one-stop shop for home cooks and chefs alike Lauryn Ishak Ino wine bar owners Shean Tan and Joachim Leong outside Ome by Spacebar Coffee, the café they also run Lauryn Ishak The sights and smells of George Town hit me as soon as I arrive: photogenic architecture marked by carved inlays and louvered windows; street hawkers peddling platefuls of char kway teow and curry rice; the trilling bells and kitschy decorations of the trishaws. Penang is especially animated in this week of early February between Chinese New Year and the Hindu festival of Thaipusam. Toward Chew Jetty, a historic waterfront settlement of stilt houses built by Chinese immigrants in the 19th century, the sea air is warm and salty. I pass an old man taking his songbird for a walk in a pagoda-style birdcage and stop to listen to what sounds like a game of mah-jongg through an open doorway. This is the Penang that has sustained the dreams of travelers for decades, with its homey flavors and fading architecture. But alongside these timeless scenes, there are signs everywhere of a younger Penang: coffee shops with Instagrammable interiors and perfect flat whites; artisanal ice cream shops scooping flavors like Blue Tahitian vanilla; boutiques selling stylish linen clothing.
The Guardian
12-05-2025
- Lifestyle
- The Guardian
Elly Curshen's quick weeknight recipes for using up leftover greens, bread and vegetables
These are all about taking the spoils of the weekend, whether that's leftovers from Sunday lunch, the bits you couldn't finish from a takeaway or the last scraps from a party spread, and stretching them out to make joyous weekday lunches. I'm concentrating on ideas, rather than recipes as such, because using up the odds and ends from the fridge needs to be part of the flow of your cooking to avoid waste. Everything is quick, easy, involves minimal prep and, crucially, is endlessly open to adaptation. Prep 5 minCook 15 min Serves 1 1 medium egg Leftover naan or roti, or frozen paratha cooked from frozen in a dry frying pan for a couple of minutes1 spring onion and/or fresh herbs – coriander is perfect Chutney, such as mango, raita, mint, lime pickle Chilli crisp – I like Laoganma Bring a small pan of water to a boil, then add the egg and set a timer for six and a half minutes. (To save time, boil and peel a few eggs, then keep them in a sealed container in the fridge, where they'll be fine for three days.) Meanwhile, sprinkle a little water over the leftover naan and stick it under the grill for a minute on each side, to wake it up a bit. (If you are using frozen paratha, remove from the packaging and put directly into a large, hot frying pan and cook as per the packet instructions.) Finely slice the spring onion and roughly chop the herbs, if using. Spread some chutney over the naan, then peel and quarter the boiled egg and arrange it on top. Add the spring onion, herbs, if using, and chilli crisp, then roll or fold up and eat over a plate. Prep 5 min Cook 10 min Serves 1 2 tsp olive oil1 small handful leftover greens (cooked or raw), such as cabbage, green beans, kale, cauliflower leaves, peas and/or broccoli, all roughly chopped 2 slices bread2-4 tbsp cottage cheese, or cream cheese or creme fraiche 1 tbsp chilli jelly or jam, or sweet chilli sauceFlaky sea salt2 tsp toasted mixed seeds – toast a whole bag, then store in a jar to have to hand Heat the oil in a large frying pan and add the leftover greens. If they are already cooked, just let them heat through and char a bit (avoid the temptation to jiggle them around too much); if they're raw, stir-fry with a splash of water until tender, then leave to char. You want hot, slightly blistered greens that retain their bite. Meanwhile, toast the bread, then spread it with the cottage cheese. Pile the hot greens on top, then immediately stir the chilli jam into the empty hot pan, add a splash of water and warm through for 30 seconds, until the jam liquefies (if using sweet chilli sauce, skip this step). Spoon the sauce over the greens, finish with a sprinkle of flaky sea salt and some toasted mixed seeds, and serve hot. Prep 5 min Cook 10 min Serves 1 30g mixed olives, pitted and roughly chopped20g very finely diced red onionA few mint leaves, roughly choppedA splash of red-wine vinegar (about ½ tsp)A few grinds of black pepper2 slices bread, such as seeded sourdough, or crackers, or cruditesHummus – you'll need about 1 tbsp per slice of bread Mix the olives, onion and mint in a small bowl, then stir in the vinegar and black pepper, and set aside while you toast the bread. Spread the toast with the hummus, pile the olive salsa on top and eat immediately. Elly Curshen is a food writer based in Bristol.
