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The Guardian
a day ago
- Lifestyle
- The Guardian
Beat the heat with Ravinder Bhogal's recipes for chilled soups
When the thought of eating hot meals seems unbearable, chilled soups will help you beat the heat. Today's ones are cooling, nourishing, hydrating and a little more fortifying than the usual chop-and-blitz raw soups such as gazpacho. As much as I love those, sometimes I want something I can get my teeth into; something with the satisfying chew of cold noodles, or a crunchy or herbaceous topping. These are perfect for dining al fresco, or to pour into jars and take along to a picnic. This silky soup (pictured top), thickened with gram flour, gets its mellowness from sweet, comforting coconut yoghurt. Prep 15 minCook 50 minChill 4 hr+ Serves 4 350g natural coconut yoghurt 30g chickpea flour ½ tsp turmeric 1 tbsp coconut oil 1 tsp brown mustard seeds1 pinch of asafoetida (optional)15 fresh curry leaves 4 makrut lime leaves, stems removed and discarded, leaves torn½ tsp cumin seeds 1 stick cinnamon, broken up1 thumb of ginger, peeled and grated2 sticks lemongrass, white parts only, finely chopped1 green chilli, finely chopped, seeds and all1 heaped tsp soft brown sugarSea salt1 cucumber, very thinly sliced250g flat, wide rice noodlesJuice of 2 limes1 long red chilli, sliced on the diagonal, seeds and allFresh coriander leaves, to garnish Whisk the yoghurt, chickpea flour and turmeric in a large bowl until smooth, then gradually beat in one and a half litres of water until there are no lumps. Heat the coconut oil in a large saucepan and, once hot, sprinkle in the mustard seeds. As soon as they pop, add the asafoetida, curry leaves and lime leaves and, once they are in turn crackling, follow with the cumin seeds and cinnamon. Saute briefly, then add the ginger, lemongrass and chillies, and cook, stirring, until fragrant. Pour in the yoghurt mix, add the sugar and season with sea salt. Cook, stirring constantly, on a medium heat until the mix comes to a boil, then turn the heat to low and simmer gently for 15-20 minutes. Take off the heat, leave to cool, then cover and chill in the fridge for at least four hours, until very cold. Meanwhile, sprinkle the cucumber slices with a teaspoon sea salt, leave for 15 minutes, then rinse, drain and squeeze out any excess water. Soak the noodles in boiling water for five minutes (or cook them according to the packet instructions), then drain, place in ice-cold water and drain again. Divide the noodles between four bowls. Add the lime juice to the broth and mix – if it's too thick, add a splash of water to loosen. Ladle the broth over the noodles, scatter over the cucumber, chilli and coriander, and serve. This verdant soup made with sweet peas gets a spiky kick of flavour from the convenience of a ready-made curry paste, while fresh Thai basil adds vibrancy. Prep 5 minCook 30 minChill 4 hr+ Serves 4 1 tbsp coconut oil1 bunch spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped2 tbsp green Thai curry paste – I use Mae Ploy500g podded fresh peas, or frozen and defrosted peas400g hot vegetable stock400ml coconut milk1 large handful Thai basil50g spinachJuice of 1 juicy lime Asian microgreens or pea shoots, to garnish Melt the coconut oil in a large saucepan on a medium heat, then saute the spring onions until softened. Add the curry paste and saute, stirring, for five minutes until fragrant, then stir in the peas and pour over the stock. Reserve four tablespoons of the coconut milk, then tip the rest into the pan and simmer for five minutes. Roughly chop the Thai basil and spinach, then add to the pan and simmer for five minutes. Take off the heat and blitz smooth using a stick blender or food processor. Leave to cool, then cover and chill in the fridge for at least four hours. Before serving, squeeze in the lime juice, then divide between four bowls, drizzle over the reserved coconut milk and garnish with microgreens or pea shoots. Be warned, this peanut furikake is highly addictive – you'll want to sprinkle it over just about everything. Prep 15 minCook 1 hr Chill 4 hr+Serves 4 For the peanut furikake1 tbsp coconut oil 50g salted roasted peanuts, roughly chopped15 curry leaves, torn25g unsweetened desiccated coconut3 tbsp sesame seeds1 tsp nigella seeds 1 tsp brown mustard seeds 2 nori sheets, crumbled and toasted 1 tbsp pure maple syrup ¾ tsp chilli powder ½ tsp sea salt For the rasam5 medium tomatoes, finely chopped1 banana shallot, peeled and finely chopped100g tamarind paste25g light brown soft sugar2 tbsp coconut oil or ghee1 tsp mustard seeds¼ tsp asafoetida (optional)15 fresh curry leaves 1 star anise 1 tsp cumin seeds 2 green chillies, finely chopped, seeds and all30g piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated1 tsp ground coriander ¾ tsp coarsely ground black pepper 1 tsp ground turmeric To make the furikake, melt the coconut oil in a frying pan, then add the peanuts, curry leaves, coconut, sesame seeds, nigella seeds and mustard seeds, and fry over a low heat for about five minutes, until golden brown and toasty. Add all the remaining furikake ingredients, stir briefly for 30 seconds, then spread over a baking sheet and leave to cool completely. Now for the rasam. Put the tomatoes, shallot, tamarind and sugar in a large saucepan with a litre and a half of water. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat and simmer for 30 minutes, until the tomatoes and shallot have broken down. Meanwhile, melt the coconut oil or ghee in a frying pan on a medium-low heat, then add the mustard seeds. Once they pop, add the asafoetida, if using, curry leaves, star anise and cumin, and fry, stirring, for a minute. Add the chillies and ginger, and fry for about two or three minutes, until fragrant. Sprinkle in the ground coriander, pepper and turmeric, fry for 30 seconds, then pour into the tomato broth and leave to bubble gently over a low heat for a further 15 minutes. Take off the heat, leave to cool, then cover and chill in the fridge for four to six hours, until cold. Ladle into bowls and serve sprinkled with the furikake.


CBC
26-05-2025
- General
- CBC
This creamy vegan kurma is packed with spring vegetables
Kurma, a south Indian version of korma, is known for its slurpable gravy, often made with a blend of coconut, cashews and spices. It's one of my favourite tiffin meals to order when I go back for a visit. This version, packed with spring vegetables, uses coconut milk to keep it vegan. The result is a meal that's vibrant, comforting and best served with warm rotis, pooris or dosas to sop up all the sauce. Ingredients Coconut spice blend: 4 tbsp fresh or frozen grated coconut 10 to 12 cashews, soaked in warm water for 15 minutes ½ tsp cumin seeds ½ tsp fennel seeds ½ tsp water Vegetables: 2 cups (200 g) green beans, trimmed and cut into bite-size pieces ½ cup (100 g) fresh or frozen green peas ½ tsp ground turmeric 1 small (50 g) potato, peeled and cut into bite-size cubes (about ½ cup) ¼ medium head of cauliflower, trimmed, cored and cut into bite-size florets (about 2 cups) 1 cup (100 g) carrots, peeled and cut into bite-size pieces Kurma base: 2 tbsp neutral oil (such as avocado oil) 1 (½-inch) cinnamon stick 2 whole cloves 2 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed 1 medium onion, finely chopped 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped or grated 1 (½-inch) piece ginger, grated 2 Roma tomatoes, diced ½ tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp Kashmiri chili powder (or paprika) 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp sea salt, or more to taste ½ cup water 1 (400 ml) can coconut milk To garnish (optional): 2 tbsp chopped fresh cilantro leaves Preparation Add the coconut, cashews, cumin seeds, fennel seeds and water to a blender and process until smooth and homogenous, adding up to ¼ cup more water to thin out the mixture as needed. Set aside. Fill a large bowl with ice water. Then, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Add the beans and peas and blanch for 2 minutes. Immediately transfer them to the bowl of ice water. Add turmeric and potatoes to the boiling water, and cook for 3 minutes. Add cauliflower and carrots, and cook until all of the vegetables are just tender, around 3 to 4 minutes more. Drain and set aside. Heat oil in a large non-stick pan over medium-high heat. Add cinnamon, cloves and cardamom, and cook until aromatic, about 20 seconds. Add onion and sauté until translucent, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add garlic, ginger, tomatoes, turmeric, chili powder, coriander and sea salt, and cook until tomatoes are soft and jammy, around 3 to 4 minutes. Add all the vegetables back to the pan along with the coconut mixture, water and coconut milk. Stir to combine, then simmer until the vegetables are fully cooked and potatoes are fork-tender, about 8 to 10 minutes. Season to taste. Garnish with fresh cilantro and serve hot with rotis or rice.


South China Morning Post
24-05-2025
- Business
- South China Morning Post
Coconut price surge a chance to aid Southeast Asia's small farmers
Southeast Asia is in the grip of a coconut fever. Indonesia saw coconut prices increase by 57 per cent year on year in May, and the same has been true in the Philippines since late 2024. Prices have more than doubled in both Thailand and Vietnam. This surge was driven by an increase in coconut exports, particularly to China. As a home to several of the world's coconut powerhouses , the price surge represents both opportunity and crisis for Southeast Asia. The region's aggressive export push has succeeded beyond expectations. Unfortunately, this export-driven price surge, while representing an opportunity, has helped create domestic shortages. At the same time, 98 per cent of all coconut production in the region is contributed by smallholders who face a dilemma of their own. Many lack the resources to capitalise on the price surge. Ageing trees require replacement, but new palms take years to reach full production. Without sufficient financing, better agricultural practices and protection from exploitative middlemen, even historically high prices will fail to lift many smallholders out of poverty. The disconnect between commodity prices and smallholders' welfare reveals a fundamental injustice plaguing the industry. Most of the industry is smallholders who manage less than two hectares. They earn little and, after spending on inputs, labour and transport, have even smaller profits. This systemic undervaluation stems from decades of neglect. Unlike staple crops such as rice or lucrative exports such as palm oil , the coconut has historically been treated as the unloved orphan of Southeast Asian agriculture. The contrast with palm oil is particularly stark. Indonesia's palm oil industry receives substantial government subsidies, tax breaks and investment. These advantages, coupled with palm oil's higher yields per hectare, have driven rapid expansion which directly threatens coconut cultivation.


The Guardian
23-05-2025
- General
- The Guardian
Helen Goh's recipe for coconut, vanilla and almond cake with strawberries
This cake is inspired by the scent of the gorse bushes along the Lizard peninsula in Cornwall, where my family and I go walking on summer holidays. The scent can be elusive, but occasionally, on a warm, sunny day, the breeze catches those golden flowers and diffuses their distinct, sweet scent – a mingling of coconut, vanilla and almond. I've added lime to freshen things up, should those flavours prove a little heady or rich. When strawberries aren't in season, chopped pineapple also works beautifully here. Once baked, the cake will keep, wrapped, for up to two days, but don't top it with the coconut icing until just before you want to serve. Prep 10 min Cook 1 hr 15 min Serves 6-8 For the cake200g plain flour 1¾ tsp baking powder ¼ tsp baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) ¼ tsp fine sea salt 50g ground almonds 200g room-temperature unsalted butter180g caster sugar Finely grated zest and juice (30ml) of 1 lime3 large room-temperature eggs100ml coconut cream – I like the Kara one1 tsp vanilla extract ¼ tsp almond extract For the icing100ml coconut cream 100ml double cream 30g icing sugar ½ tsp vanilla extract To finish200g strawberries, washed and halved10g flaked coconut, lightly toasted1 lime Line the base and sides of a round 20cm cake tin with baking paper, and heat the oven to 195C (175C fan)/380F/gas 5½. Sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt into a medium bowl, then stir in the ground almonds. Put the butter, sugar and lime zest in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat on medium-high for about two minutes, until light and creamy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating in well after each addition; use a flexible spatula to scrape the base and sides of the bowl, to ensure even mixing. Mix the coconut cream, lime juice and both extracts in a jug. Turn the mixer speed to low, then, working in three batches, add the sifted dry ingredients to the egg and butter mix alternately with the coconut cream, beating for a few seconds between each addition and scraping down the bowl as required. Scrape the batter into the lined tin and bake for 45-50 minutes, until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Transfer the cake in its tin to a rack, leave to cool completely, then unmould. When you're almost ready to serve, make the coconut icing. Combine all the ingredients in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and beat on medium-high until the mix thickens to soft waves. Spread the icing on top of the cooled cake, then arrange the strawberries on top. Scatter over the toasted coconut, grate the zest of the lime all over the top, then slice and serve.


New York Times
07-05-2025
- General
- New York Times
What Moms Want on Mother's Day
I won't be with my mom on Mother's Day (this Sunday, May 11; of course you knew that). But I know exactly what I'd make her: this French toast casserole. Is this Lidey Heuck recipe essentially bread pudding by another name, an easier way to prepare French toast for a crowd, a two-handed deep dish of vanilla-scented, custardy generosity? Yes, yes and yes. Naturally, I'd tailor the dish to her tastes. I'd use brioche, namely the coconut brioche from the Vietnamese bakery down the street (Mom loves coconut). I'd skip the cinnamon in the casserole and topping and instead use a bit of ground ginger, definitely some cardamom (Mom loves cardamom). I should have mentioned, too, that the brioche would have been discounted because it was a day past its sell-by date; this recipe is a great use of any stale-ish bread you have lying around (Mom loves not wasting food). Serve your French toast casserole with flowers and a handwritten card for full points. And don't forget to clean up afterward.