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If Kuwait wants to be the next Dubai, it still has a long way to go
If Kuwait wants to be the next Dubai, it still has a long way to go

Telegraph

time4 days ago

  • Business
  • Telegraph

If Kuwait wants to be the next Dubai, it still has a long way to go

For decades, Kuwait has stood in the shadow of its flashier Gulf neighbours. While Dubai dazzled the world with futuristic skylines and shopping malls the size of cities, and Qatar grabbed headlines with its glitzy World Cup, Kuwait kept largely to itself. No glossy tourist board campaigns. No bid for Expo. No island resorts rising from the sea. But that may be changing. Kuwait, a nation of pearl-diving heritage and oil-fuelled prosperity, is quietly angling to become the Gulf's next luxury travel hotspot. Not in the shouty, gold-plated way of Dubai, but in a more low-key, culturally rooted, design-conscious fashion. New hotels are opening, Kuwaiti entrepreneurs are investing in home-grown hospitality ventures, and the country's creative class is shaping something distinctive. But can it work? And more importantly, will anyone come? A country with money, taste… and rules On paper, Kuwait has all the raw materials for upscale tourism: money, safety, a dramatic desert-meets-sea landscape, a thriving dining scene, and one of the most fashion-forward populations in the Gulf. Kuwaitis are well-travelled, multilingual, and spend freely. They appreciate design, cuisine, and culture. Yet there's a fundamental paradox at the heart of Kuwait's tourism ambitions: it wants to attract the outside world, without compromising its inward values. Unlike Dubai or Doha, Kuwait is dry; there is no alcohol, and very little nightlife in the Western sense. Public displays of affection are frowned upon, and dress codes in public spaces are expected to be modest. There have been criticisms of the country's restrictions on freedom of expression, and poor treatment of migrant workers. Tourist visas are available, but bureaucracy can be slow and frustrating. Add to this a chronic underinvestment in tourism infrastructure – until fairly recently, there were barely a handful of internationally branded hotels – and you start to see the scale of the challenge. A new scene, quietly unfolding The 'real Kuwait' is best experienced through its blossoming dining and lifestyle scene, much of it created by locals for locals but now ready to welcome curious visitors. There's VOL.1, a sleek industrial coffee shop where baristas hand-pour single-origin Ethiopian beans beneath raw concrete ceilings. And then there's Dar Hamad, a fine-dining restaurant serving elevated takes on traditional Kuwaiti cuisine: grilled zubaidi fish, saffron-scented machboos, date syrup desserts, within a beautifully restored mid-century villa. Midar Restaurant brings traditional Kuwaiti cuisine into focus, specialising in freshly caught seafood sourced directly from local fishermen. Its menu is inspired by both Kuwait's desert heritage and urban vibrancy, giving diners an authentic taste of place in an elegant setting. For a touch of Lebanese glamour, Babel is a must. The restaurant is as much about the interiors – grand arches, warm lighting, intricate stonework – as it is about the food. Known for its artfully presented mezze and grilled dishes, it's often chosen for special occasions, offering a sophisticated, regional dining experience. French fine dining has its place in Kuwait too. Lenôtre, a long-standing name in the city's restaurant scene, has been given a fresh lease of life with a redesigned, seasonal menu. While savoury dishes shine, it's the desserts (especially the caramel soufflé) that keep locals and visitors coming back. And for those missing a taste of the West, Smoke Me BBQ delivers American-style smoked meats with authenticity. Brisket, ribs, and pulled pork (beef-based, in keeping with local customs) are smoked low and slow, drawing in expats and Western travellers alike who crave bold, familiar flavours. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Smoke Me BBQ سموك مي باربكيو (@smokemekw) Beyond dining, there's a cultural undercurrent worth exploring. Contemporary art galleries such as CAP Kuwait host regional exhibitions, while the Yarmouk Cultural Centre stages everything from photography retrospectives to classical music performances. Along the waterfront, there's growing talk of reimagining the country's 500km coastline for luxury resorts, and restoring historic Failaka Island as a boutique wellness destination. Who is Kuwait for? Kuwait has long been a stop for business travellers, oil consultants, and the occasional diplomat. But for sun-seeking Europeans, it's never been a contender. The lack of alcohol alone is a dealbreaker for many package holidaymakers. And yet – as the raft of Saudi-owned alcohol-free resorts popping up on the Red Sea coast prove – that might not matter. The country isn't aiming to become the next Ibiza. It's not even aiming to become the next Doha. Instead, Kuwait's tourism ambitions appear to be quietly calibrated toward two groups: the affluent, well-travelled Arab diaspora seeking authenticity over artifice; and a new generation of experience-led travellers more interested in design, food, and culture than cocktails by the pool. It helps that Kuwait is becoming easier to access. Its international airport, once an ordeal, has been modernised. Direct flights operate from London with Kuwait Airways and British Airways. Visas are now available online for most Western nationalities. The catch Still, challenges remain. Compared to the polished, PR-driven offerings of Saudi or the UAE, Kuwait's brand is opaque. Tourism is not yet a government priority in the way it is elsewhere. There is no central campaign, no English-language portal enticing travellers to visit. And while Kuwaitis are famously hospitable, there remains a wariness about opening the country up too fast or too broadly. The biggest hurdle might not be infrastructure or alcohol, it might be narrative. In a world saturated by viral travel content and Instagrammable moments, Kuwait's understated charm is a harder sell. It requires curiosity, patience, and respect for cultural nuance. It is not a destination for everyone. But for those who want something different, and more real, that might be precisely the point. Essentials Four Seasons Hotel Kuwait at Burj Alshaya (rooms from £380 per night) is the city's most luxurious address, offering sleek rooms, a rooftop pool, a full-service spa, and five high-end dining venues. Millennium Hotel & Convention Centre Kuwait (rooms from £140 per night) is a five-star option located in the Salmiya district, with 295 rooms and suites, a health club, outdoor pool, spa, and multiple restaurants. Popular with both business and leisure travellers for its proximity to the city's retail and cultural attractions. Kuwait Airways and British Airways operate direct flights from London Heathrow to Kuwait City, with fares from £390 return.

The "golden age" of digital nomading is over
The "golden age" of digital nomading is over

Yahoo

time11-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Yahoo

The "golden age" of digital nomading is over

In 2016, the night of Donald Trump's first election, I was so upset I turned to my husband Michael and said, 'Let's sell our house and leave the country.' 'But where would we live?' Michael asked me. I had to think about this. 'Maybe we can move around, living in different countries for months at a time.' Michael quickly agreed, but we both had a lot of questions. We were lucky enough to already have remote jobs, but wouldn't all that traveling be stressful? Wouldn't we get lonely? Wouldn't it be expensive? In fact, it wasn't until early 2017, months after we'd begun planning our travels, that Michael and I first heard the term 'digital nomad.' We discovered a lot of people were already doing a variation on what we'd decided to do, and most of our questions had very specific answers. We've heard a lot about digital nomading since then. The whole world has. Planet Earth has discovered the digital nomad — along with previously fringe concepts like 'coworking,' 'cohousing,' and 'remote work.' There were online resources even back when we decided to become nomads, but absolutely nothing like the deluge that exists now. Along the way, nomads have been featured in splashy cover stories in magazines and on television broadcasts. (Michael and I have even been personally featured in some of this media.) As a result, nomading has become a bonafide phenomenon, at least among the privileged creative class from wealthier countries. Meanwhile, Covid hastened the remote work revolution — which was already underway due to changes in technology — and is reportedly causing a lot of people to rethink their personal priorities. Both trends led to an even greater rise in all kinds of long-term travel. 'Now that workers have had a taste of freedom, and bosses no longer have an excuse to shackle cube dwellers to their white speckled Formica desks, who knows?' says of Mack Sullivan of Geekstreamers, an online project documenting the adventures of a couple of self-described nomadic nerds. 'Covid may have been the hammer that shattered the 1984 dystopian future of mass conformity.' How many digital nomads are there anyway — and how fast are our numbers growing? It's a difficult question to answer, in part because 'digital nomad' is difficult to define. How 'nomadic' do you have to be — and how 'digital'? But one recent study found that the number of Americans who call themselves 'digital nomads' has doubled — to more than ten million people — in just the last few years. And Covid or not, things aren't going back to the way they were before. At the same time, nomading is related to other recent social phenomena, like the Simple Life movement, Van Life, RV Nomading, and even FIRE (Financial Independence Retire Early) — all people putting a higher priority on life experience and personal satisfaction, and less priority on traditional 'success.' Nomading — and all these movements — finally hit the big-time. None of this is necessarily a bad thing. Put me on record as someone who secretly rolls his eyes at those insufferable twits who always insist that something is ruined once it goes mainstream. It's an objectively good thing that more people are choosing organic fruits and vegetables. And it's liberating not to be tethered to one cable TV company — to now be able to pay only for the viewing options you actually want. But even I agree that once something goes mainstream, it changes. The definition of 'organic' becomes watered down. And we can end up paying even more for the streaming services we want than we ever did for that cable bill we thought was so outrageous. The same kind of mainstreaming is happening right now to nomading and all long-term travel. When Michael and I started nomading in late 2017, our experience was different from those who started in 2007 — and their experience was different from those who did it in 1997. But the experience is definitely dramatically different from when we started, eight years ago. Because of all the different, and converging, social trends, the rate of change is almost certainly faster now — and the changes themselves are more dramatic. 'Social media has encouraged boring, self-obsessed people to travel,' laughs Keith Lang of Nomad Flag, an online resource for nomads and 'slow travel' aficionados. Still, even if this emerging new version of nomading is a bad thing, I'd be a hypocrite for decrying it. Michael and I literally write a newsletter evangelizing the nomad lifestyle. Regardless, the future of nomading will not be the same as even the recent past. The Golden Age of nomading is finally coming to an end. How so? Let's explore the changes one by one. When Michael and I decided to become this weird thing called 'digital nomads,' we were very worried about the cost. Back then, we had nothing to compare it to, except the cost of being on vacation or holiday, which typically ranges from somewhat to very expensive. At the end of our first year of nomading, we were shocked to find we'd only spent $42,000 USD for the whole year — about half what we'd spent leading a much more modest lifestyle back in Seattle. And that first year nomading even included two months living on cruise ships. Why were we spending so little? Mostly, because we'd ended up living half the year in countries where the cost of living was extremely cheap by Western standards. But prices are rising, even in these 'cheap' countries. Pre-Covid, the travel industry was bigger than it had ever been in all of human history. Demand was exceeding supply, and prices were already climbing. When Covid finally ended, the boom picked up right where it left off — and may even be outpacing it, because of pent-up demand and those reconsidered personal priorities. Which means prices will continue to rise. We're already seeing this in the rapidly climbing prices on Airbnb, even in out-of-the-way locations. 'We've definitely noticed,' says Tyler Milton of Luke and Tyler Travel, a pair of partly nomadic YouTubers. 'It seems like Airbnb is using Covid as a reason to charge more for cleaning fees, and the service fees seem more expensive as well.' Geekstreamer's Mack Sullivan agrees. 'Eventually, the supply for Airbnbs will adjust to the demand and the prices will stabilize, but we don't have any expectation that prices will go down.' Smart nomads now employ different strategies to combat these rising prices — traveling in the off-season, negotiating with hosts, and using different rental platforms. But lodging isn't the only cost to travel, and these other prices are rising too. In existing nomad hubs — places like Chiang Mai, Thailand; Bali, Indonesia; Colombo, Sri Lanka; Tbilisi, Georgia; and Mexico City, Mexico — the cost of living just isn't what it used to be. Then again, why would it be? These places have become more popular — in part, because nomads themselves have spent the last decade bragging about the 'cheap' cost of living and Instagramming the hell out of the natural beauty. 'We're now seeing the effect of all those videos on the cost of living in those places on YouTube,' says Tracey Johnson, the founder of NomadGirl, another online nomad resource. Plus, governments and businesses in these destinations have spent the last decade hearing complaints from nomads about inconsistent Wi-Fi speeds and other subpar infrastructure. As a result, many cities and businesses have spent a lot of money upgrading themselves, and all the things that nomads complain about are now dramatically better. So why wouldn't the locals expect to be compensated? Then there's the fact that — duh! — prices are rising everywhere. Inflation is up all over the world, for travelers and non-travelers alike. Look, a nomadic lifestyle is always going to be cheaper than a more conventional life in an affluent country, if only because nomads are location independent: if prices rise too fast in one place, we have the option to simply pick up and move somewhere cheaper. And here's another thing that's true about nomading in 2025 and beyond: new countries are vying to become players in the nomad game, so for the foreseeable future, there will always be newer, cheap options for nomads. But in the existing nomad hubs and more familiar destinations? Prices simply aren't going to be what they've been. Which leads directly to another point: many destinations are also getting more crowded. The concept of travel is nothing new, of course. But the concept of the 'digital nomad' truly is a relatively recent phenomenon. That's because of changes in technology — the 'digital' part of digital nomad — have allowed far more people to travel while continuing to work their same job. Many nomads live much cheaper than back in their home countries, in beautiful, sunny locations, in the midst of friendly, fascinating cultures. Even without social media, it was only a matter of time before word got out about something this great. Well, word is officially out. 'It was obvious in Mexico City,' says Geekstreamer's Mack Sullivan. 'The coffee shops were full of remote workers conducting interviews, business transactions, and video calls.' Meanwhile, in the last decade, nomad hotspots like Bali, Indonesia, have been completely transformed — and not for the better. Eat, Pray, Love may have gotten the Bali ball rolling, but nomads have since descended en masse. Indeed, nomading overkill is related to the greater problem of overtourism in general — the idea that so many outsiders can visit a particular place that it ruins whatever made the place special in the first place. 'We saw that on a recent trip to Paris,' says Luke and Tyler Travel's Tyler Milton. 'We didn't plan or book anything in advance, which we usually do — we thought we'd be more spontaneous. Unfortunately, all the major tourist attractions were completely booked. The Louvre was booked three months out.' 'As long as people can make others envious with their selfies in front of famous landmarks, these places will always suffer from overtourism,' says Nomad Flag's Keith Lang. On one hand, nomading is different from traditional tourist travel in important ways. Nomads tend to travel slower and stay longer, living farther away from tourist centers and being much more likely to patronize local businesses. Furthermore, nomads tend to be 'early adopters' in the travel market, traveling to more out-of-the-way places, and filling the gaps in between high seasons. Bansko, Bulgaria, for example, was already the location of a popular ski resort with a wide range of tourist amenities, but only in the winter months; the town was mostly deserted the rest of the year, until a couple of enterprising Europeans turned it into a thriving, year-round hub for nomads. Likewise, nomads helped sustain some tourist economies during the Covid months. 'Madeira Island's economy was demolished by the pandemic,' says Keith Lang of Nomad Flag. 'But the local government, in cooperation with movers and shakers in the digital nomad movement, helped bring a new type of traveler to the island, even during major European lockdowns. I spent two months in Madeira in early 2021, and it was magical.' But just because the footprint of a nomad is lighter than that of a traditional tourist, that doesn't mean it isn't there. Frank Riela, an American with Italian heritage, has lived on the island of Ortygia, the historical center of the Italian city of Syracuse, off and on, since 2005. Back then, he estimates that it was maybe two percent foreigners and the rest were local Italians. 'I watched Syracuse go from a charming local place with a handful of foreigners, where I had to speak Italian, to a place that's inundated with tourists,' Riela says. 'There are limits to what any place can sustain,' agrees Geekstreamer's Mack Sullivan. 'The best we can do as travelers is set a good example, be thoughtful about when and where we go, and be intentional about how we put our dollars into the local economy.' All of which is important and true. But two other things are also true: Wherever a nomad now goes, other nomads will probably be there too, more than ever before. And many communities — and many countries — have finally had enough of the crush of people and are now firmly pushing back. The fact is, most travel destinations have a love-hate relationship with tourist dollars. 'I was in Venice recently, and I saw the protests of when the first cruise ships returned, post-Covid,' says NomadGirl's Tracey Johnson. 'But what the news didn't report on was the bigger group of locals welcoming the cruise ships' return. When places have become too dependent on tourism, the people that earn a living on it want the tourists to return.' Until very recently, nomads have been welcomed too — or simply flew under the tourist radar. Many nomads lived in 'cheap' countries like Mexico and Thailand for a year or more, doing 'border runs' to reset their tourist visas as needed. In Mexico, even overstaying your visa typically resulted in only a minor fine. But now nomading has become too popular to ignore. Locals (understandably) want more control over their communities, and governments (understandably) want these foreign interlopers to pay for more of their upkeep. Part of the reason why Airbnb prices have risen so dramatically is that more communities are restricting short-term rentals, and enforcing and collecting occupancy taxes. Visa requirements are changing too. Mexico has become much stricter in awarding and enforcing tourist visas — no doubt, because so many people were openly abusing the system. Likewise, Thailand has been tightening its visa system. Border runs became impossible due to Covid restrictions, but the country was cracking down even before the pandemic. But just because some countries are tightening their borders, that doesn't mean they're turning nomads away cold. Thailand has become one of at least thirty-six countries that now offers a 'digital nomad' visa, in a concerted effort to attract nomads. Many more countries are expected to offer such visas soon. But Thailand's nomad visa requires assets of $500,000 USD and an annual income of $80,000. (They also offer other visa options, including an 'elite visa' and an 'investment residency,' but both also require significant wealth.) 'These digital nomad visas are perfect for people that want to base themselves in a country for longer than six months,' says NomadGirl's Tracey Johnson, citing the Caribbean Island of Barbados as one country that did a great roll-out of their new visa and got a lot of people to take them up on it. But, she cautions, 'Most of these digital nomad visas come with a high entry requirement in terms of income that you have to prove.' In other words, many countries want to encourage rich nomads, who will spend the wealth locally — and discourage everyone else. Which, of course, is exactly what you would expect. But this also means more freedom and privilege for wealthy Westerners — and less for everyone else. I'm a nomad — with a real dog in this fight — but my sense is that many countries still don't understand the nomading phenomenon. Many of these new nomad visas have significant fees and are difficult to apply for. And digital nomad visas don't necessarily shield you from local taxes — despite the fact that nomads don't use most government benefits, and many visas require nomads to self-insure their own health insurance. 'Most digital nomad visas are not terribly good,' agrees Luke and Tyler Travel's Tyler Milton. Of course, countries and local communities can set whatever rules they think are appropriate. Nomads are ultimately guests in the countries we visit. But nomads are different from traditional tourists. The best of us bring unique and attractive qualities to the places we visit. And we go to particular destinations because it's in our interest. If countries change the equation too much, we'll simply go to some other country happier to see us — like the Republic of Georgia, which is currently offering a twelve-month tourist visa on arrival, specifically to attract nomads. 'Some governments are figuring this out and are offering, or will offer, a true digital nomad visa,' says Nomad Flag's Keith Lang. 'Something with an enticing benefit in terms of lifestyle and tax.' The larger point is that border issues and other local regulations are yet more things that nomads will have to pay more attention to in the years to come. The era of 'carefree' nomading is rapidly coming to a close. Is the Golden Age of nomading really over? That depends what you think about nomading now that it's become more expensive, more crowded, and more complicated. And that it's almost certainly going to become even more expensive, more crowded, and more complicated in the years to come. A lot of these changes were probably inevitable once new technologies made nomading possible in the first place. And some are happened even faster because of the Covid pandemic. The digital nomad party is now in full-swing — with even more arrivals expected very soon. But for me, none of this means the party's over. Maybe I've simply imbibed too much of the nomading Kool-Aid, but I still love almost every aspect of my chosen lifestyle. The future won't be like the past. But when has it ever been? And wherever the party goes next, I'll be right in the thick of it. Because even now, it's still the best, most exciting party I've ever attended.

‘It's about life and dance and colour': inclusivity still in fashion on Australian runways
‘It's about life and dance and colour': inclusivity still in fashion on Australian runways

The Guardian

time15-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • The Guardian

‘It's about life and dance and colour': inclusivity still in fashion on Australian runways

Having been in business since 1999, fashion designer Lee Mathews is always searching for something out of the ordinary. 'At 25 years it feels like you've seen everything and worked with everyone,' she says. For her anniversary runway at this year's Australian fashion week (AFW) in Sydney, she decided to add friends to her usual cast of professional models. 'Casting was more about how people wear the clothes,' she says. 'Not how tall they are or how polished they look. 'Asking someone who's not a model to try on clothes and walk a runway takes a kind of vulnerability. I think that subtle awkwardness and lack of polish brings a different energy to a show. There's honesty in it, and it reflects the collection in a more human way,' she says. The runway is a full circle moment for Mathews. She has been producing clothes that she and her friends would want to wear since the brand's inception at her kitchen table. Now her clientele reads like a roll call of Australia's female creative class: producers, artists, chefs and writers, including Saskia Havekes, the director of Potts Point florist Grandiflora, who took to the runway this week. Sign up for the fun stuff with our rundown of must-reads, pop culture and tips for the weekend, every Saturday morning 'I'm very fortunate to have her as a friend. She's given me so many beautiful things over the years. I'd look like a bag lady if it wasn't for Lee,' says Havekes. When asked to model, 'I said 'absolutely!' straight away.' 'I can return the gesture by putting in my best effort next Tuesday,' she says. 'No matter what's going on, I will be there.' To prepare for the show and calm her nerves, Havekes felt she had to practise her walk. So she spent her evenings walking home from work through Rushcutters Bay park. 'I was thinking, knowing Lee, she'll want it to be as natural as possible,' she says. 'I better not swing my arms.' In her work as a florist, Havekes is used to being the creator driving the arrangement. She found her experience of being a model, in the hands of a team of stylists, hair and makeup artists, an interesting role reversal. 'I felt like I was the vase, and they were putting the flowers together – being the clothes,' she says. 'They were like, 'we've got to have her hair parted in the middle and combed down.' They were making me into something else, which I enjoyed.' While Havekes walked the runway, another of Mathews' high-profile friends, Nigella Lawson, sat in the front row. Mathews joins a long list of designers at Australian fashion week who platform their communities by casting their friends, clients and collaborators in shows – including Alix Higgins, Nicol & Ford, Jordan Gogos, Gary Bigeni and Romance Was Born – the last of which is celebrating 20 years in business. This practice seems to come from two places: creating better vibes on the runway and backstage, and wanting to showcase clothes on bodies that reflect their customers. Drawing from their community allows Katie-Louise and Lilian Nicol-Ford – the married couple behind Nicol & Ford – to build a sense of intimacy and energy that's impossible to replicate with a casting call. 'When you see someone on a dancefloor in the early hours of the morning, you often see their purest and most liberated form,' they say. The duo try to capture that confidence and presence by putting it on the runway. Casting friends again and again has also engendered trust between model and designer. 'Each model is allowing us to create a highly visible statement with their body, [so] careful consideration and conversation is essential for our process,' they say. The ability to do this is invaluable for a brand that embraces gender fluidity and body positivity. In an industry often characterised as aloof and self-serious, fostering a warm and welcoming atmosphere on and off the runway feels forward-looking – a necessary departure from a tradition of closed doors and exclusivity that has long been critiqued as superficial and unattainable. 'I love the support backstage,' says designer Jordan Gogos, who presented his fifth AFW runway this week. Although he is primarily an artist, Gogos has developed a reputation for high-intensity, performance runways which star his friends, muses and even his sister Yasmin. 'There's beauty working with someone you love. That IYKYK [if you know, you know] in each other's eyes. They know what's running through my head and I know what's running through theirs,' he says. 'More often than not [after the show] we refer to the garment by the name of the person who wore it.' Sign up to Saved for Later Catch up on the fun stuff with Guardian Australia's culture and lifestyle rundown of pop culture, trends and tips after newsletter promotion While runways in Australia are embracing the joys of friendship and inclusivity, international fashion weeks continue to send thin, unsmiling, youthful models down the runway – an apparent retreat from a brief foray into body positivity. According to the Vogue Business Autumn/Winter 2025 Size Inclusivity Report, at the last four major fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris, just 2% of the models featured were mid-sized and 0.3% were plus-sized. This was down from the season before, where 4.3% of models were mid-sized and 0.8% were plus-sized. Industry insiders blame the body diversity backslide on two forces: the rise of conservative ideals that emphasise control and female subservience; and the popularity of weight-loss drugs like Ozempic. Designer Gary Bigeni casts sizes 8 to 20 (the equivalent of US size 4 to 16) in his runway shows. Bigeni says the return to ultra-thin models 'makes me sad'. 'It's a completely unrealistic representation of real women, and more importantly a completely unrealistic representation of how your clothes are going to look on them.' Pointing to data that shows the average Australian woman wears a size 16 (US 12) and only 9.1% of women are between sizes 4 and 8, he says: 'I would much rather show that my collection works on – and for – a range of sizes and ages.' According to its Code of Conduct, AFW (which is being run by the Australian Fashion Council after IMG's departure last year) encourages participants to promote body image positivity and body kindness, along with ethnicity, gender, ability and body types that are 'representative of the diversity of Australia'. For designers, casting friends is about business as much as ethics. In an industry that is rapidly changing under ever-evolving digital pressures, ultra-fast imports and tensions in global trade, the runway is a rare opportunity to show off the communities who love to wear their clothes. In a sense, it is a flex that comes from the heart of their business – their customers – and challenges what the fashion industry is, and who it is for. Bigeni wants his casting to tell a story that people can connect with. This year, one of his most famous mates, Dessert Masters judge Melissa Leong, made her first ever modelling appearance in his show. 'It isn't just about fashion and runways – it's about life and dance and colour,' he says. 'My last show ended with a big group hug.' The group hug is becoming something of a tradition for Bigeni – his show on Thursday concluded the same way.

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