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Yahoo
22-07-2025
- Yahoo
High ratings for Oak Ridge Mexican restaurant, ice cream shop
After doing this for well over 20 years, I'm at the point, where I manage my expectations when it comes to Mexican-food restaurants. The vast majority of the ones I have tried do a decent job. No major complaints. But it's not often that one lands on the right-hand side of the bell curve. Barrios Mexican Cantina in Oak Ridge, however, did just that. While researching it online, I appreciated the aesthetics and functionality of the website, and the menu definitely piqued my interest. Then upon our arrival, I noticed that the modestly sized bar and dining areas didn't beat me over the head with cliché Mexican-restaurant décor like piñatas, streamers and gaudily colored booths. I don't need an explosion of visual stimuli in my face when I dine out, which is why Barrios' understated mom-and-pop vibes felt refreshing and welcoming. And as I mentioned, I was hopeful about the menu too. You'll find a number of dips and a couple of ceviche dishes among the appetizers. I also spotted unique salads like berry and goat cheese as well as avocado and kale. And yes, they have familiar south-of-the-border dinners like burritos, enchiladas, nachos, fajitas and quesadillas. There were also sections focused more on chicken and vegetarian options. I ordered one of the seafood entrees, the seafood chimichanga ($17). The tortilla is filled with mahi, shrimp and sauteed onions, then deep-fried and topped with chipotle queso. It's served with rice, beans, pico and crema cilantro. The Grub Spouse tried one of the Casa Specialties, the carnitas dinner ($16). The confit pork is prepared with sauteed onions and served with similar sides as mine and accompanied by tortillas. Barrios also offers more than two dozen street taco varieties. Prices vary, but I got the molida taco (ground beef) for $3.75. There were so many other dishes I would have loved to try but passed on, including the chori-chicken chimichanga, the enchiladas supremas, the seafood and spinach quesadilla and the quesabirria — a flour tortilla stuffed with birria (stew), cheese, onion and cilantro. Combo and a la carte options are up for grabs as well. This was by far my favorite Mexican-food meal in a long while. The carnitas were cooked to perfection, and my deep-fried chimi was bursting with plump shrimp, mildly flavored mahi and mucho onion. I loved all the sides as well, including the rice, which I can usually take or leave. Even the cilantro-enhanced pico was wonderful. One negative was the service, which started out great, but our personable server went missing once our food was delivered. We received no follow-up, and even after he eventually dropped by, it took a little too long for him to get us a check and to-go boxes. We were the only customers there at the time. It was regrettable, but I'm not letting that have too much impact on my overall score. We passed on a familiar list of Mexican desserts, mainly so we could be-bop right down the Oak Ridge Turnpike to Lolli & Bobo's Ice Cream Shop, a block off the main drag in that Bus Terminal Road shopping area. My research indicated that they get their ice cream from Chocolate Shoppe Ice Cream in Door County, Wisconsin. It's rated as super premium, containing at least 14% butterfat, which makes it creamy and delicious. And I would agree. We agonized over the nearly 20 flavors available that day, including blueberry cheesecake, cool mint cookie, bourbon trail and caramel corn. I got a scoop of Cake Pop (cake batter ice cream, salted chocolate cake pieces and sprinkles) and a scoop of Michigan Pot Hole (chocolate ice cream with black-tar fudge and chocolate chunks. The Spouse got two scoops of Eskimo Kisses — coconut ice cream with bits of chocolate ice cream and a blanket of fudge. Each two-scoop cup was $6.49. We didn't see Lolli and Bobo, two grandparents who are Tennessee transplants, but if we had, we would have told them that they have excellent taste in ice cream. My favorite chain lately has been Bruster's, but in this case, Lolli & Bobo's comes about as close to that benchmark as any local shop I've experienced. I'm giving them two little, pink plastic spoons, way up. Barrios Mexican Cantina Food: 4.5 Service: 3.5 Atmosphere: 3.75 Overall: 4.25 Address: 154 Talmeda Road, Oak Ridge Phone: 865-272-5171 Full bar service Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sundays; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays Lolli & Bobo's Ice Cream Shoppe Food: 4.5 Service: 4 Atmosphere: 4 Overall: 4.5 Address: 124 Bus Terminal Road, Oak Ridge Phone: 865-410-0411 No alcohol service Hours: 1 to 8 p.m. Sundays; noon to 9 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays Bottom line: These two Oak Ridge eateries — serving Mexican food and ice cream, respectively — are both very good at what they do and worth the drive from Knoxville. This article originally appeared on Knoxville News Sentinel: High ratings for Oak Ridge Mexican restaurant, ice cream shop Solve the daily Crossword
CNA
09-07-2025
- Entertainment
- CNA
Best UK eats: 9 must-visit restaurants for summer and beyond
While the UK's summer weather is not exactly guaranteed, it proves a hugely popular draw for global visitors, especially around social and sporting events like Wimbledon and Henley Royal Regatta. One thing they can be sure of, however, is that they'll enjoy one of the most thrilling dining landscapes anywhere. The only challenge? Knowing where to choose, given the almost overwhelming raft of options across the country, especially with new openings. These nine spots, all based on first-hand experience, are winners thanks to exceptional eats, engaging ambience and unique touches of distinctly British style. 1. YNYSHIR, SNOWDONIA, WALES First up comes the extraordinary dining destination of Ynyshir in the sublime, serene and impossibly green landscapes of Snowdonia in Wales. It may be an effort to get there, but once you do you'll be rewarded with a two Michelin-starred experience like nothing you've seen before. There are 29 courses, including six desserts, meaning that dinner takes a minimum of four-and-a-half hours. You can wear whatever you want – and use whatever cutlery feels right – but eating with your hands is strongly encouraged. And there is a resident DJ spinning soul, funk and old-school hip hop on vinyl. It all creates an effect like no other, even before mind-blowing bites from chef Gareth Ward start appearing. Ward slices tuna with the exquisite precision and finesse of a Japanese master and rules the vast open-flame grill where he personally cooks every protein. Highlights from a genuinely dazzling menu include pickled wild garlic stems with carabinero prawns, veal sweetbreads with caviar and ranch dressing, as well as his take on Singapore chili crab, served with a deep-fried bun. Stay the night in the former hunting lodge to make the most of your visit. 2. THE ANGEL INN, LONDON From west Wales to north London and The Angel Inn in Highgate is an all-day concept by Heath Ball which has quietly revolutionised the beloved British pub. Breakfasts are rarely available in most British boozers, but this elegant spot in leafy Highgate serves classic smoked kippers and a full English which has already won legions of fans. But there's far more on the menu, from lunch through to dinner, lubricated by creative cocktails, organic wines, independent-producer spirits and some of the capital's finest beers. Traditional pies, naturally all made in-house, are one big draw – don't miss the steak, pancetta and porter ale. But the ultimate test of any pub – gastropub or otherwise – comes with the beloved tradition of the Sunday roast. Ruby-red folds of roast beef top a huge Yorkshire pudding, perfect roast potatoes and endless gravy in a plate to make the heart sing. Just note that they're walk-in only, with no reservations taken. 3. THE DINING ROOM, LANGDALE CHASE HOTEL, THE LAKE DISTRICT The romantic and historic Lake District doesn't always feature on international visitor lists – but should. The mountains may not be Alpine in scale, but they provide the perfect stunning backdrop to Britain's most famous and largest freshwater lakes. Lake Windermere is the most famous and Langdale Chase Hotel sits directly on its shores. Dating back to 1890, it offers superb original design features, wooden panelling and stained glass, as well as contemporary touches across 30 bedrooms. Another big draw is their simply named but decidedly delicious restaurant, The Dining Room. Be sure to book a table on the terrace overlooking the lake and let executive chef Michael Cole tease the finest local produce in style. Wild halibut with creamed leeks, tarragon and parsley butter sauce was exemplary, but the Dexter beef with crispy oyster and a stout sauce stole the show. 4. DORIAN, LONDON Few London restaurants have had such a meteoric rise as Dorian in Notting Hill, thanks to chef Max Coen and his impeccable pedigree from famed kitchens including Frantzen and Ikoyi. Although Dorian has been open for a couple of years, it remains one of London's hottest tables, so it was immensely gratifying to dine there for the first time and immediately understand why it is so talked about – and loved by regulars including David Beckham. The cosy, candlelit dining room that Coen calls a "contemporary British bistro", is the canvas for a space where his lightness of touch works wonders. At dinner, crunchy potato rosti come decked in crab or Brussels sprouts, but the main of turbot was a stunning rendition of the fabulous fish, combining collagen stickiness, charred from the grill with ebony edges and sweet, yielding flesh. A green garlic sauce could've overpowered, but didn't, underlining how restraint once again rules. Desserts included lemon curd with shortbread, then perfect pistachio ice cream – topped with a quenelle of caviar. 5. ANGLOTHAI, LONDON AngloThai is a recent opening that gastronomes have been booking up months in advance. As the name suggests, it represents the mix of Thai and British heritage of husband-and-wife team John and Desiree Chantarasak, a duo who have masterminded a genuinely unique dining experience. It was rewarded with an extraordinary accolade of a Michelin star just three months after opening. Located in the elegant central neighbourhood of Marylebone, it serves a tasting menu of brilliant execution and ingenuity, offering six courses at lunch and nine at dinner, where the finest produce from across the British Isles are paired with characteristically bold Thai flavours. A Blythburgh chop with pork fat and smoked chilli relish was a symphony of flavours, while Cornish monkfish was lifted by a woodland curry and wild mushrooms. Elsewhere, ingredients include caviar and Carlingford oysters, but even ginger root, holy basil and chillies, are all sourced locally. They call their cuisine 'Rooted in Thailand – uniquely British' with very good reason. 6. MOREISH, FAIRMONT WINDSOR PARK Millions of visitors head to Windsor Castle to see pageantry and history, but few venture into the delight that is Windsor Great Park, a royal landscape of atmospheric forests, lakes and gardens. There's no better vantage point from which to experience the ancient woodland than Fairmont Windsor Park, a luxury spa hotel barely a five-minute walk away. Once you're back from a long stroll exploring the park, dinner at the hotel's relaxed bistro Moreish is the perfect way to end the day. Roasted scallops on a bed of zesty fregola came topped with a pine nut crumble and pickled kumquat for citrus and sharpness. Then West Country lamb rump was lifted by a salsify and pea veloute, with seasonal green asparagus for added freshness. Don't miss decadent desserts like rhubarb and raspberry torte, two classic British summer flavours. 7. HYDE PARK GARDEN, MANDARIN ORIENTAL HYDE PARK, LONDON One of the great joys of a British summer is eating al fresco and outdoor dining doesn't get much more elegant than at Hyde Park Garden, overlooking the classy green expanse of London's most famous royal park. The terrace of Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park affords views of the famed The Household Cavalry Mounted Regiment who regularly trot past on their way to and from their barracks and ceremonial duties, but eyes are also drawn to plates crafted by two Michelin-starred Dinner by Heston Blumenthal. Grazing options include oysters, charcuterie and cheese plates, paired with bubbles or rose, but bigger appetites will love the chance to try iconic dishes such as the celebrated 'Meat Fruit' where chicken liver parfait is crafted to look like a mandarin. The triple-cooked chips are also a must-try. 8. RESTAURANT INTERLUDE, LEONARDSLEE HOUSE, WEST SUSSEX Leonardslee House is a picture-perfect British country house retreat, yet barely an hour from London. Their 240-acre gardens are a delight and their farm featuring animals including albino wallabies from Tasmania is definitely an unexpected bonus. Both in-house and non-resident guests are especially drawn by one Michelin-starred Restaurant Interlude where chef Jean Delport – the first South African to win a Michelin star – oversees one of the finest tasting menus going. Dinner starts with a presentation of some of the produce crafted into intricate, artistic but always flavour-forward creations. Aged turbot with mussels and wild garlic was a fantastic plate, but even that was topped by a tartare of Trenchmore beef over a chawanmushi custard, finished with caviar. Wine pairings complete the picture of a seriously accomplished spot which looks set to grow in acclaim. 9. LA MOME AT THE BERKELEY Knightsbridge is home to the beautiful Berkeley Hotel which has brought a dose of French Riviera glamour to London, thanks to the arrival of the famed Cannes dining destination, La Mome. Formerly home to the two Michelin-starred Marcus by Marcus Wareing, today the space has been transformed into an expansive, light filled room, La Mome at The Berkeley. As befits the French Riviera, the terrace is where you'll find the most sought-after tables, but sitting inside lets you enjoy the impressive live piano performances.
Khaleej Times
04-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Khaleej Times
Food Review: Dubai's China Tang offers a new take on old-school Cantonese
I'll be honest. Chinese cuisine has never topped my list. Too often, it's a roulette wheel of gloopy sauces and mystery meats. But today, ladies and gentlemen, something rather unexpected happened. Upon arrival at China Tang, we were greeted with the sort of warmth and polished efficiency that would make even the Swiss blush. Nadine showed us to our table, delivered a flawless briefing on the restaurant's philosophy, and managed to make us feel like visiting royalty without a hint of pretension. The Lana Promenade itself surprised me. It's been some time since I ventured to this neck of the woods, but what I found was a rather splendid scene — gleaming buildings, a pristine marina, and this little jewel of a restaurant tucked elegantly into its surroundings. Inside, the décor is exactly what you hope for: tasteful, spacious, with light streaming in through vast floor-to-ceiling windows. The sort of place where you could linger far longer than you intended. Our server, Rina, took command of the culinary journey, explaining that this was elevated Chinese cuisine — a modern, creative take. A bold claim. But as it turned out, entirely justified. We kicked off proceedings with the vegetarian Sir David's hot and sour soup — quite frankly, a masterclass in balance and depth. Then came the crispy duck salad, prepared at the table with surgical precision, reminiscent of how we used to prepare Caesar salad back in my hotel school days, albeit far more artfully executed. Next arrived a flurry of small plates — spinach dressed in sesame and peanut (utterly addictive), Lamb shaomai that were little flavour bombs, and some exquisitely crafted vegetable dumplings. Each dish arrived with such elegance that I almost felt guilty destroying their visual perfection. Almost. Then came the main event. Half-braised black cod with pickled cabbage — served differently to any black cod I've had before, moist in its broth, rich, and utterly magnificent. Braised lamb in red sauce arrived like a heavyweight boxer: bold, intense, and impossible to ignore. A sizzling stone platter of green beans offered a punchy, spicy kick, while the grilled radish with black truffle was, frankly, a revelation. Who knew radish could be like this? I'm still thinking about it. By this stage, stomach capacity was running dangerously low. Yet, Rina, with a glint in her eye, persuaded us to sample a few desserts. The chilled sichuan jelly and the mango pomelo sago were both beautifully presented, delicately balanced, and precisely served at just the right temperature. Though, like many acquired tastes, your mileage may vary. China Tang has performed the near impossible: it has changed my perception of Chinese cuisine. Exceptional food, pitch-perfect service, and a setting that invites you to stay far longer than you should. Highly recommended. Hero dish: I'm always torn… If forced to choose, black cod — 10/10 VIBES: Lunchtime was quiet. I would like to try dining here in the evening — 9/10
Times
04-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Times
All aboard the foodiest train in the East
In the restaurant world you generally won't find great cooking and a great view, the principle being that if you are gorging on what you can see out of the window, there's no need for the chef to blow your mind with what's on the plate. I guess you could, kindly, say that the restaurant is trying to save you from sensory overload, but we all know that the truth is they don't feel they need to try. • Read more luxury reviews, advice and insights from our experts It's clearly not the same on the inaugural Tastes of Tomorrow journey aboard the Eastern & Oriental Express in Malaysia. On the table in front of us are a procession of intricate courses prepared by one of Taiwan's most garlanded chefs, André Chiang, along with the Michelin-starred Vicky Cheng of Wing in Hong Kong, which recently came 11th in the World's 50 Best Restaurants guide. The meal is a masterclass in Asian ingredients presented through the lens of classic French techniques. There's a prawn and clam bisque given a third dimension with miso and seaweed; steamed red snapper that explodes with the rich, multitiered citrus of 30-year-old mandarin peel; and a tropical fruit salad of lychee and pineapple in bergamot elderflower jelly topped with a tart soursop sorbet. As we feast, the ever-changing scenery unfurls beyond the window: hornbills lazily ride the warm air currents over placid lagoons, palm tree-covered hills stretch into the distance and at other times thick, impenetrable jungle crowds in around us. All this to the swaying rhythm of a luxury train as it eases its way along a narrow-gauge track. Great food and incredible views? A big double tick. The inaugural Tastes of Tomorrow journey has been created to enable guests to take in the sights of the less explored parts of the country, while being indulged by the resident chef Chiang and his Michelin-starred friends. Jason Liu of Ling Long in Shanghai joins him in July and in September Jungsik Yim brings some of the Korean flair that has won him three stars in New York and two in Seoul. It's the chance to explore the food and landscape of the region, while cocooned in luxury. Our journey had begun in Singapore, where we were picked up from our hotel (one night's stay just to soften the hard edges of jet lag) and taken to Woodlands railway station on the Malaysian border. While porters took charge of our bags and the boring customs formalities, Navein, our forever obliging steward, showed us around the state cabin that was to be our home for the next three nights. All blue velvet, polished brass and cherrywood and elm marquetry panelling, it exuded the charm of a bygone era, but with all the luxuries that modern travellers expect. There was efficient air conditioning and a fully equipped ensuite bathroom, for a start, plus an armchair and sofa — the better to take in the views through the two picture windows by day. These converted, as if by magic, into two beds every time we went to the dining car for dinner (no undignified postprandial clambering in upper bunks for us). 'And these,' Navein said with a final flourish, 'are the two magic buttons. Press whenever you want anything.' Well, since you ask, a couple of glasses of champagne, please, to toast the start of the journey as we crossed the narrow isthmus into Malaysia. Afternoon tea served in one of the two dining cars introduced us to the level of catering we could expect for breakfast, lunch, tea and dinner over the coming days: elegant finger sandwiches, smoked salmon arancini, chocolate tarts with the gentle prickle of green peppercorn heat, served at immaculately laid tables, all silver and pressed linen. It also gave us a chance to explore the train, with its two richly furnished bars and the observation car at the rear, open to the sides the better to see and breathe the sights and sounds of the jungle. We soon fell in to the gentle rhythm of a parallel life: breakfast of eggs, pastries, yoghurts and fruit brought to our cabin by Navein; three-course lunches — sometimes at a table for two, sometimes sharing with another couple — then a modicum of restraint over tea, before dressing up in our finery for champagne and canapés on sofas in the piano bar. This was our chance to get to know the other guests. The train has a capacity of about sixty and there were plenty of older couples celebrating landmark birthdays and wedding anniversaries but also younger ones making an early bid for their trip of a lifetime. Then we'd move to the dining cars for a multicourse dinner of more sparkling complexity and innovation — all achieved by just eight chefs crowded into two tiny galley kitchens — and then back for post-dinner cocktails and karaoke (note to self: Bohemian Rhapsody is both too hard and too long). It wasn't all to be nonstop eating, drinking and caterwauling, though: we had to do something to earn our indulgence. Having travelled on the first night up the centre of Malaysia, along a single-track jungle line built in the 1920s during British rule, we awoke to find ourselves in Taman Negara National Park, the last refuge of the elusive Malayan tiger. There was an option after breakfast to meet conservationists and join photographers in their hides (although the chances of spotting a tiger were approximately nil, they freely admitted). Instead my wife joined a morning yoga class beneath towering limestone outcrops, then lay on a lounger in a shallow jungle stream having a sound bath, while I joined five others on an electric bike ride down jungle tracks and past remote villages to explore two of the 130-million-year-old caves that dot those outcrops. After a restorative lunch on the train (kimchi salad nicoise with champagne dressing, scallops with sweet and sour chilli XO sauce, and coconut pannacotta with nyonya chendol, a classic Malaysian iced dessert flavoured with pandan leaves) we spent most of the afternoon in the observation car, chatting to the chefs and other guests and watching as the jungle slipped away behind us. By the next morning the train had doubled back and tracked its way up Malaysia's more populous west coast to Penang Island. We disembarked for a 15-minute crossing on a privately chartered ferry, and arrived in the Unesco-protected town of George Town, famous for its handicrafts and street art. Here, while some guests went for a cookery class, others of us wanting a break from food climbed on the back of vintage Vespas to buzz around the artistic highlights in this fascinating city, taking in the faded elegance of the colonial architecture, seeing the vibrant murals that adorn many of the streets and visiting a young artist and textile maker in their typical old shophouse (built long and narrow to avoid the ubiquitous British window tax). After lunch it was time to head back to Singapore. Our scheduled stroll around an old mining town, Ipoh, en route was thwarted by a sudden darkening of the skies and torrential rain. Such downpours in these parts seldom last more than 20 minutes before the sun comes out again, but my wife was taking no chances and retreated to the onboard Dior Spa for a massage and facial, while I holed up in the bar (again!) to prepare for our final gala dinner. This was to be a seven-course feast that included sushi-grade shrimps marinated in chilli oil and soy, a laksa-spiced bouillabaisse and a dish of salted fish and aubergine with sea cucumber, that Cheng told me took six days of prep. It was all we could do to wobble back to our cabin (oh, all right, stopping off for more drinks and some rather more professional entertainment by the resident pianist and singer) before waking to find ourselves back at the Woodlands border and returning to a Singapore that this year celebrates 60 years of independence. After the high glamour of the Orient Express, it felt appropriate to end our week amid the colonial grandeur of Raffles hotel, whose stately charms have been luring visitors to Singapore since it was established in 1887. Pulling up at its gleaming white-columned portico, with its immaculately liveried Sikh doormen, the humid, busy city outside evaporated away amid its tropical gardens, marble colonnades, teak verandas and suites — each with their own butler. With their ceiling fans and minibars housed within travel trunks, the rooms filled me with nostalgia for an era I never knew (perhaps it was the fact we were staying in a suite named after Joseph Conrad). There was also a corridor of fame featuring guests from Charlie Chaplin and Liz Taylor to Nelson Mandela and pretty well every member of our royal family, plus, slightly incongruously, the band Deep Purple. As you would expect, there was no let-up in the eating and drinking opportunities. We ventured out to Singapore's famous hawker markets for laksa and char kway teow (noodles with prawns, cockles and sausage) at nearby Lau Pa Sat and for grilled skewers on 'Satay Street', where the smell of smoke from the various stands hangs heavy in the air. Raffles itself is no slouch on the food front. It houses, of course, Singapore's most famous drinking hole, the Long Bar, and yes, we went there for the obligatory Singapore Slings. But we were happier in the less frenetic and more atmospheric surroundings of the Writers Bar, next to the hotel entrance. Later this year André Chiang opens his own restaurant in the hotel, but for now our favourite was Butcher's Block, where the Hawaiian chef Jordan Keao harnesses fire and smoke with admirable restraint. An eight-course tasting menu included highlights such as yellowtail tuna with tomato sorbet and aguachile, dry-aged wagyu beef with bone marrow custard and pea puree, and a palm sugar ice cream with strawberry and macadamia nut crumble. Sometimes a bit of sensory overload, when done right, is exactly what you need. Three nights on the Eastern & Oriental Express Tastes of Tomorrow tour costs from £5,370 per person in a state cabin, Suites at Raffles Singapore cost from £1,145,
Times
28-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Times
Forget croissants — the best Parisian grub is doner kebabs and mashed potato
Have you ever tucked into a charcuterie platter at a Parisian sex club wearing nothing but steamed-up glasses and a small sarong? Me neither. Fortunately, the food writer Chris Newens has participated in this dually pleasurable activity on our behalf and lived to tell the tale. The enormous establishment Moon City, which from the outside looks like 'a bawdy Balinese temple', but on the inside is 'a funhouse of mirrors' with a hot tub 'surrounded by fake vegetation and fibreglass rocks', offers its patrons a slap-up lunch: brioche, desiccated iceberg lettuce and 'the pink and white marble of a rosette de Lyon'. But never brie or roquefort, France's most famous cheese exports. 'We'd never buy cheese,' the club's doorman says. 'Most of the people who work here are from Senegal. They just buy what appeals to them.' Newens, who hails from an English family of bakers and as a toddler 'played with pastry as play-dough and food colouring for paints', migrated across the Channel a decade ago, drawn by the outstanding culinary reputation of Paris, a capital where even soup kitchens — restaurants solidaires — offer their patrons red wine and cheese courses. But, as he sagely points out in Moveable Feasts, his literary tour round the surprising culinary highlights of the French city, it's not all escargots, steak frites and perfectly domed madeleines, as flowery novels and cringey Netflix shows would have us believe. In fact it's far from it. The city's edible offering has slowly morphed into a joyfully unique combination of tastes and world cuisines: 'Many of the best bouillons these days are Vietnamese pho, the most popular sauce is a spicy ketchup called Algérienne and only tourists eat frogs' legs.' Having unveiled his plan to work backwards through the snail-shaped city map, choosing and recreating a dish he deems representative of each area, Newens starts with the 20th arrondissement, east of the historic centre. Here, paying attention to the rural origins of many Parisian bistro owners, he picks the ancient and fantastically tasty dish the French call aligot (and that the English in our slightly less unromantic language would probably call cheesy mash): pulverised potatoes with melted Tomme de vache stirred through, as well as garlic paste, 'a homeopathic amount of butter' and a drizzle of olive oil. 'Here was a dish to be eaten in a hillside shepherd's hut with a gale outside and maybe a goat at your feet,' Newens proffers. 'Its presence here, though, spoke of the city's willingness to accept and imbibe flavours from beyond its limits.' In the 19th arrondissement, once home to the city's many abattoirs, Newens delves into the history of the meat trade. 'The sheer tonnage of tendon, cartilage and offal sliced and auctioned here over the years is almost impossible to imagine,' he says. • 11 of the best restaurants in Paris for 2025 Kebab shops now proliferate in the area, always with a 'name spelled out in red plastic above its door, high-contrast photographs of its dishes peeling in the window', so he chooses the humble doner — invented by a Turkish restaurateur in the mid 19th century — as the area's token foodstuff, served with 'salade, tomate, oignon', necessarily in that order, and the aforementioned Algérienne sauce, a 'grainy, spicy, sweet orange gloop'. He briefly considers environmental concerns, heeding the loud call of veganism, but speedily admits that when hunger strikes he closes his ears 'to the panicked lowing of the phantom livestock, which can seem to roll with the wind down the canal' and tucks in. The 18th arrondissement has Newens seeking an authentic African restaurant in which to try malangwa fish in a marinade of 'white pepper, chicken stock, mustard, freshly grated ginger, lemon juice and a spice called Aromat'. In the neighbouring 17th arrondissement he takes a crash-course in how to craft the perfect croissant, revealing that the crescent pastries are so hard to execute that 'in Paris only 20 per cent of boulangeries make their own'. And so on. My favourite chapters were ratatouille, which he allocated to the 15th arrondissement and its anxious trainee chefs 'for no good reason apart from that Pixar film about a preternaturally talented rat' causing chaos in a kitchen, and the mouthwatering 10th arrondissement tartiflette. Although the sugary macarons of the 8th arrondissement should get an honourable mention, especially after Newens' wonderful description of the evolution of dessert in the region as 'a single continuous episode of Come Dine with Me played out over more than 50 years.' • Read more book reviews and interviews — and see what's top of the Sunday Times Bestsellers List Far more than a map of the city's most significant culinary markers, Moveable Feasts is a portrait of a place told through those who live there, the 'nicotine-pickled locals' who may have started life elsewhere but now make their living by sifting flour and sharpening knives, from a Peruvian marine biologist retraining at the world-famous Cordon Bleu cookery school to a nearly-80-year-old market seller who 'looked a little like a garden gnome' and deserves 'a chest full of medals' for the hard grind he puts in before dawn each morning. It's a thoroughly entertaining (and seriously hunger-inducing) book that will make the Eurostar marketing team squeal with joy. Et voilà. Moveable Feasts: Paris in Twenty Meals by Chris Newens (Profile £18.99 pp368). To order a copy go to Free UK standard P&P on online orders over £25. Special discount available for Times+ members
