Latest news with #culturalappropriation
UAE Moments
21 hours ago
- Business
- UAE Moments
India's Role in Global Fashion: Challenges and Opportunities
Challenges and Opportunities in India's Global Fashion Landscape Prada's introduction of intricately stitched sandals with toe rings at Milan's Men's Fashion Week drew immediate parallels to India's traditional Kolhapuri chappals, a design that dates back to the 12th century. Initially omitting recognition of the Indian roots of the design, the brand faced accusations of cultural appropriation. To address this, Prada later acknowledged the Indian influence and initiated collaborations with local artisans. This action underscores the growing relevance of India in the luxury fashion sector and highlights the struggles international brands face in accurately representing its rich cultural tapestry. The Expanding Indian Luxury Market India's luxury market is projected to grow from $7.73 billion in 2023 to $11.3 billion by 2028, as per Kearney. Contributing factors include the rise of a globally savvy younger demographic, urbanization, and an expanding middle class. Gaurav Gupta, a prominent Indian designer, observes how luxury buyers increasingly seek depth and individuality rather than brand allure—a sign of the market's maturation. Global luxury brands are taking notice of this shift. Iconic houses like Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, and Valentino have launched flagship stores in major cities, adapting their offerings to cater to nuanced Indian audiences. While collaborations with Indian designers have brought praise, challenges persist for brands that sometimes prioritize commercial strategy over cultural appreciation. The Cultural Appropriation Dilemma Indian aesthetics have long influenced Western fashion, with elements like pajamas, Madras fabrics, and embroidery becoming staples. However, with the rise of social media and the amplified voices of Indian artisans, conversations around cultural appropriation have intensified. Cases such as Gucci's "Indy Full Turban" controversy exemplify how precarious the line between appropriation and genuine appreciation can be. India's Underappreciated Role in Global Manufacturing India's influence in global fashion is deeply rooted in history, with fabrics like chintz and paisley once coveted by European elites. Yet, the country's rich legacy is often eclipsed in modern narratives. Presently, India continues as a manufacturing hub known for its exceptional embroidery and textiles, though credit for its craftsmanship noticeably shifts elsewhere, particularly to European brands. Fashion industry leader Imran Amed has advocated for enhanced recognition of India's contribution, stressing the importance of respecting not just labor but the artistry that underpins millions of livelihoods. Indian Designers Redefining Global Luxury Contemporary Indian designers are reshaping the global narrative around their craft, gaining visibility on prestigious international platforms. Zendaya and Cardi B, for example, have sported designs by Indian creators like Gaurav Gupta and Rahul Mishra. Additionally, Sabyasachi Mukherjee's work has garnered critical acclaim, taking center stage at events such as the Met Gala. These achievements mark a turning point in how Indian talent is perceived globally. Modern designers aspire to blend traditional artistry with innovation—preserving cultural heritage while pushing creative boundaries. Kolhapuri chappals, now protected under geographical indication tags, epitomize this balance between legacy and relevance. Fostering Meaningful Collaborations Global brands are beginning to form deeper connections with India, fostering innovation and cultural exchange. Dior earned acclaim for hosting a Mumbai-based show and collaborating with Chanakya International, celebrating authenticity and traditional craftsmanship. Similarly, Nike partnered with NorBlack NorWhite to spotlight India's tie-dye techniques. Despite growing visibility for such initiatives, challenges remain in creating equitable partnerships. Industry voices like the founder of Diet Sabya emphasize the necessity of recognizing India not just as a manufacturing center but as a vital cultural contributor. Fairness and acknowledgment are critical for India's rightful place in the global fashion ecosystem.
CNN
a day ago
- Business
- CNN
India beckons Western fashion brands — but cultural missteps can be costly
When Prada sent several pairs of brown sandals with distinctive toe rings and intricate stitching down its menswear runway in Milan last month, observers were quick to point out their resemblance to a centuries-old piece of Indian heritage. The storied Italian fashion house may have presented the shoes as a new luxury creation, but many in India simply saw a pair of Kolhapuri chappals — traditional hand-crafted sandals with roots stretching back to the 12th or 13th century. Prada's initial failure to acknowledge the inspiration behind the shoes, which had earlier been described by the brand simply as 'leather flat sandals,' according to the Guardian, sparked fierce and ongoing debate over cultural appropriation. Critics accused the label of erasing the legacy of Indian artisans, with voices across social media calling out what they saw as blatant design theft. Within a week, Prada had acknowledged in a letter to an Indian trade group that the sandals in its men's Spring-Summer 2026 collection were indeed 'inspired by traditional Indian footwear.' In a statement to CNN, the brand said it has 'always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design.' Prada later added that it had met artisanal footwear manufacturers in India 'to discuss potential opportunities for future collaboration.' Prada's readiness to confront the controversy could be a reflection of the fashion industry's growing interest in India's luxury consumers — and a reluctance to anger them. But the episode also epitomizes how Western labels have often struggled to meaningfully engage with the country's crafts and culture. India's luxury market is on a dramatic ascent, estimated to expand from $7.73 billion in 2023 to $11.3 billion by 2028 — a rate that would likely outpace most of the world's major luxury markets, according to global consulting firm Kearney. This projected growth is fueled by a rising middle class, increased urbanization and a new generation of brand-conscious, internationally minded young consumers. But today's Indian luxury consumer is 'no longer a singular archetype,' according to the celebrated Indian fashion designer Gaurav Gupta. 'We're seeing a beautifully diverse audience, from second-gen industrialist families to first-gen digital entrepreneurs, artists and global citizens — who are all looking for something deeper than just a logo,' he said in an email. Major brands have been investing heavily in response. Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga and Valentino are among the fashion houses that have opened flagship stores in Mumbai or Delhi in the last three years. Others have collaborated with Indian labels or creatives on designs intended to speak more authentically to local audiences. Some of these brands are 'adapting beautifully,' Gupta said, but the 'real disconnect happens when brands view India as a commercial opportunity rather than a cultural dialogue,' he added. 'The Indian buyer wants to feel seen. It's no longer enough to just open a flagship in Mumbai, you need to speak the emotional and visual language of the market.' Indian inspiration is as essential to Western fashion as pajamas and Madras plaid. But accusations of cultural appropriation have intensified in recent years due to the growth of internet access in the country, the rise of social media platforms and a surging sense of cultural pride. 'A lot of Indian people, including designers and artisans, are aware of their rights,' said Toolika Gupta (no relation), director at the Indian Institute of Crafts and Design (IICD) in Jaipur, in an email, adding: 'They want acknowledgement of their legacy.' In 2019, fashion house Gucci sparked controversy with its 'Indy Full Turban,' sold for $790 on Nordstrom's website. The blue headpiece closely resembled the traditional Sikh turban, prompting backlash from Sikh communities in India and elsewhere. It was eventually removed from the website, with Nordstrom quickly apologizing amid the backlash. Just this year, the clothing company Reformation was criticized for selling a blouse, skirt and scarf that reminded many South Asians of the lehenga, an Indian garment consisting of a long skirt, top and a dupatta (scarf), a staple of Indian fashion for centuries and typically draped across a woman's chest. Some took issue with Reformation's lack of acknowledgement for the garment. One TikTok user joked: 'My girl is about to go strut the streets of India… Give credit where credit is due, this is literally a lehenga with a dupatta.' She also noted that the pastel-colored blouse, skirt and scarf were strikingly similar to lehengas worn by Bollywood celebrities in the early 2000s. In a statement to The Washington Post, Reformation said the design in question was inspired by a 1990s-era John Galliano gown and scarf set owned by the model Devon Lee Carlson, with whom it collaborated on the collection. just my thoughts on these pieces from the ref x devon collab #greenscreen #reformation #browngirl #browngirltiktok #lehenga #dupatta #devonlee #fashion #springfashion #indianoutfits #southasian #southasianfashion #jhumkas #ibizaoutfits #scarves H&M, meanwhile, recently came under fire for a sleeveless sheer 'long camisole' top and trouser set that many social media users likened to the salwar kameez, a traditional Indian tunic and pant. In a statement to CNN, H&M said the design took 'inspiration from current fashion trends like dresses layered over pants and the popularity of sheer pieces, as well as various plays on transparency and movement.' It's not just labels that have sparked controversy. Frustration spilled onto TikTok last year after the fashion rental company Bipty posted a now-deleted video featuring White women wearing sheer shawls draped across their chests, describing the look as 'very European effortlessly chic.' South Asian users on the platform immediately noted the similarities between the shawl and a dupatta. Many posted their own videos draping dupattas and mockingly dubbing them 'Scandinavian scarves,' using humor and irony to highlight the apparent erasure and misrepresentation of Indian heritage. Bipty did not respond to CNN's request for comment. 'With Instagram receipts and Gen Z rage, the tolerance for bad takes is zero,' the anonymous commentator behind the popular Instagram account Diet Sabya wrote in an email to CNN. (Diet Sabya, which draws inspiration from the established social account Diet Prada, often highlights fashion industry missteps, including cultural appropriation.) 'What once went unnoticed or unchallenged is now getting called out in real-time,' the email added. 'Someone in Delhi has the same access to discourse as someone in London. So, when a show uses a sacred motif incorrectly, the backlash is fast, loud and fully deserved.' High fashion's relationship with Indian artisans stretches back to at least the 17th century, when Europe's royal tailors sought out textiles like cotton and silk from the subcontinent. Over centuries, this cross-continental exchange has transformed Indian motifs from prized curiosities into ubiquitous elements of Western style. According to IICD's Gupta, textiles such as chintz and paisley are deeply rooted in India's rich artistic traditions and have long inspired global fashion, though their origins are now frequently overlooked. But India is not just a source of inspiration for luxury fashion — it's also an integral part of its supply chains. Today, a significant segment of the industry's manufacturing is outsourced to ateliers, embroiderers and textile producers in India. Yet, despite Indian artisans' foundational role, their creations are often shipped to Europe for final assembly and can thus be labeled as being 'made' in Europe. This kind of erasure, according to Imran Amed, founder, CEO and editor-in-chief of the industry publication The Business of Fashion, has 'reduced India to a manufacturing hub while Europe gets the cultural and economic credit.' 'In India, where craft is livelihood for millions, this distinction matters even more. It's not just about symbolism — it's about economic justice and dignity,' he said via email. The backlash Prada faced 'wasn't just about a sandal,' Amed added. 'It was a broader reaction to a long history of erasure and under-acknowledgment.' Homegrown designers are helping to change things. Indian fashion is having a striking impact on red carpets worldwide — and not only on the backs of Bollywood stars. Western celebrities are increasingly embracing Indian designers, too. Cardi B wore a custom-made, electric blue, hooded sculptural gown by Gaurav Gupta to the 2023 Grammys, while Zendaya walked the carpet in a shimmering, hand-embroidered blue sari gown by Rahul Mishra at a high-profile event in Mumbai months earlier. Kim Kardashian, meanwhile, has worn designs by the likes of Manish Malhotra and Sabyasachi Mukherjee, who last year became the first Indian fashion designer to attend the exclusive Met Gala in New York. 'It's a powerful shift, almost like we're reclaiming our own narrative,' Gaurav Gupta told CNN. 'Designers from India are now presenting on the global stage not as 'ethnic' alternatives, but as innovators with our own language, our own shapes, our own ideologies. We're not adapting to fit in anymore; we're expressing to stand out.' For many Indians, the Kolhapuri chappals that Prada said it was 'inspired' by represent the ingenuity and artistry of Kolhapur, a historic city nestled in the country's western Maharashtra state. Typically crafted from locally sourced buffalo hide and tanned using traditional vegetable dyes, the sandals could effectively withstand the relentless heat and rugged terrain of the Deccan Plateau. The distinctive toe loop, which is attached to the T-strap, helped keep them close to the wearers' feet. Cutting across generational and social divides, the Kolhapuri chappal embodies both the enduring spirit of rural India and a bridge to contemporary fashion. The shoe is protected by a coveted 'geographical indication' tag — like the one ensuring Champagne is only produced in France's Champagne region — that, in theory, safeguards this symbol of Indian heritage from copycats. 'It's something truly Indian,' said Shubhika Sharma, the prominent Indian fashion designer and founder of the label Papa Don't Preach, in a video interview. Prada's initial failure to acknowledge the Indian artisans behind the design amounted to a 'missed opportunity for Indian craftsmanship,' Sharma added. About 10,000 artisan families in Kolhapur are engaged in the chappal trade, according to local media reports, though many of them struggle in poor conditions and earn low wages. In India, Kolhapuri chappals can retail for as little as $5 or as much as $100, depending on the quality of leather and level of craftsmanship. While Prada's sandals had not hit the market at the time of last month's controversy, the luxury fashion house's shoes typically retail at prices ranging from $700 to well over $2,000. For Sharma, 'everything just boils down to respect,' she said. 'Was due respect given to the creator, to the person who originated it, to the culture that originated it?' Some Western labels have proven better at engaging with Indian audiences than others. In 2023, Dior made headlines by hosting a landmark runway show at Mumbai's historic Gateway of India, unveiling a Pre-Fall collection that celebrated the subcontinent's artistry. The collection featured Banarasi brocade, mirror work, tie-dye detailing, Nehru collars and kurta tailoring — motifs deeply rooted in Indian tradition and craftsmanship. Many of the embroideries and textiles on the runway were made by the Mumbai atelier Chanakya International, which was credited for its role. The show was widely hailed as a respectful homage, with Vogue India's fashion director Anaita Shroff Adajania describing it as 'a thank you to India.' Amed, from The Business of Fashion, meanwhile, called the collaboration between Chanakya International and Maria Grazia Chiuri, then Dior's creative director, as 'thoughtful… not performative,' adding: 'Chiuri hasn't just sourced embroidery from India; she's spotlighted the artisans, acknowledged the lineage of the craft, and in doing so, helped shift perceptions of where luxury value is created.' Similarly, last month, Nike launched its first collaboration with an Indian fashion label, the Delhi-based brand NorBlack NorWhite, unveiling a vibrant range of sportswear inspired by ancient tie-dye techniques. The move was broadly celebrated by social media users in India, a country in which Nike has long struggled to make commercial inroads. For Diet Sabya's founder, however, much more must be done to ensure genuine recognition for Indian talent and traditions. 'When India is being eyed as the next big luxury market, you can't keep treating it like an exotic pitstop,' they said. 'While a few brands are finally acknowledging us as the global textile powerhouse we are — it's still crumbs. Visibility is a start. But equity is the end goal.'
Yahoo
2 days ago
- Politics
- Yahoo
Cleveland Guardians respond to Trump's post about restoring former team name
The Cleveland Guardians have been the Guardians for four seasons now. The Washington Commanders have been the Commanders for three seasons, approaching their fourth, after two years playing as the Washington Football Team. Both teams have evolved beyond past their previous monikers, and everyone thought the argument surrounding cultural appropriation, insensitive names, and racist caricatures was done with. Nope. The dialog was back in the news Sunday, July 20, courtesy of President Donald Trump. Via a post on Trump's Truth Social, the president claimed that the Native American people want the names reverted back. "There is a big clamoring for this," wrote Trump. "Our great Indian people, in massive numbers, want this to happen. Their heritage and prestige is systematically being taken away from them. Times are different now than they were three or four years ago." "The Washington 'Whatever's' should IMMEDIATELY change their name back to the Washington Redskins Football Team. There is a big clamoring for this. Likewise, the Cleveland Indians, one of the six original baseball teams, with a storied past. Our great Indian people, in massive numbers, want this to happen. Their heritage and prestige is systematically being taken away from them. Times are different now than they were three or four years ago. We are a Country of passion and common sense. OWNERS, GET IT DONE!!!" − Donald Trump via Truth Social Trump also expressed his own desire to see the names changed back, calling on each team's owners to "GET IT DONE!!!" However, despite the president's pleas, the Guardians seem uninterested in going back in time. Cleveland Guardians respond to Trump's comments In a meeting with reporters Sunday, Guardians' president of baseball operations Chris Antonetti said that he was unaware of Trump's statements prior to the meeting and that changing the name back to the 'Indians' was "not something [he has been] tracking or [has] been paying a lot of attention to." "We've gotten the opportunity to build the brand as the Guardians over the last four years and are excited about the future," said Antonetti. Cleveland's PBO is obviously hinting at the idea that the team does not plan on returning to the Indians' moniker any time soon. Antonetti did note that he understands the different perspectives people may have on the name change, but did not provide any indication that the team plans on reverting to its former name. Trump's history with Cleveland baseball Trump has been involved with Cleveland's MLB franchise for over four decades at this point. The President even attempted to buy the team back in 1983, but his deal was eventually rejected. Since the name change, Trump has been adamant that the change was a mistake, claiming that the decision was made only as a means to be "politically correct" when it was first announced. During his election campaign in 2024, Trump continued expressing his discontent with the change. While speaking at a rally in Ohio, Trump compared the name 'Cleveland Guardians' to a group of people "in charge of a trust fund." COMMANDERS: Reveal alternate uniforms that nod to their Super Bowl glory Have the Washington Commanders made a statement? Not yet. That said, they likely will not be reverting to their former name either. Since new Commanders owner Josh Harris took control of the team in 2023, he has maintained a staunch stance that his team will not be returning to their former name. Harris has previously stated that the name has been "embraced by our team, by our culture, by our coaching staff," expressing a strong connection with the brand and looking to build a future with the organization as it currently is. That said, earlier this month, the Commanders unveiled an alternate uniform for the upcoming season that will take their title-starved fans back to the Joe Gibbs glory years. The Commanders are set to wear what is basically the same look the team had while reaching four Super Bowls between the 1982 and '91 seasons, winning the Lombardi Trophy three times during that span. Later Sunday afternoon, Trump took further aim at the Commanders on Truth Social, threatening to restrict the team from building on the old RFK Stadium site if it doesn't change its name. "I may put a restriction on them that if they don't change the name back to the original 'Washington (name),' and get rid of the ridiculous moniker, 'Washington Commanders,' I won't make a deal for them to build a Stadium in Washington," Trump posted. Contributing: Nate Davis; Ayrton Ostly The USA TODAY app gets you to the heart of the news — fast. Download for award-winning coverage, crosswords, audio storytelling, the eNewspaper and more. This article originally appeared on USA TODAY: Cleveland Guardians respond to Trump about restoring Indians name
Daily Mail
3 days ago
- Entertainment
- Daily Mail
Ivanka Trump sparks uproar for controversial fashion choice during Wyoming trip
Ivanka Trump and husband Jared Kushner recently went West - with the first daughter sharing a carousel of pictures from the recent trip to Wyoming. The 43-year-old donned a series of western-themed outfits for her time in the Mountain West sub region - but one item of clothing in particular has sparked a furious response. In two of the snapshots shared by the mom-of-three, she was seen wearing a short mini skirt which featured a Native American print and tassels, sparking outrage from fans over apparent cultural appropriation. 'The skirt I'm sure was inspired by indigenous people something you and your family have no respect for,' criticized one horrified user. 'That outfit looks ridiculous on you... really,' one user slammed. 'Cultural appropriation!' admonished someone else. Another chimed in that the 'indigenous outfit is cultural appropriation.' 'Are these Halloween outfits? Incredible,' joked another. Ivanka had paired the skirt with white cowgirl boots and a black sleeveless shirt in one snap. And, in another picture shared, she accessorized with a denim jacket and small brown bag as she cuddled up and posed next to her 44-year-old husband. As per Native Blog, cultural appropriation of Native fashion in the United States has suggests not only that Native American life and cultures existed only in the past, but also that Native clothing is mere costuming, primitive, warlike or only for mascots. According to Travel Wyoming, the state has been home to many Plains Indian tribes, including the Arapaho, Arikara, Bannock, Blackfeet, Cheyenne, Crow, Gros Ventre, Kiowa, Nez Perce, Sheep Eater, Sioux, Shoshone and Ute tribes. Today, both the Eastern Shoshone and Northern Arapaho reside on Wyoming's Wind River Indian Reservation, the site noted. In another snapshot from the trip, Ivanka wore a sage green dress with long sleeves and a long, flowing skirt. She paired it with a boho disco belt on her hips and her white cowgirl boots. It is not known when the pictures were taken, with Ivanka adding a simple caption that read: 'A couple summer Fridays ago…' It is not the first time the husband and wife have visited the western state, spending a remote July 4th weekend there in 2020, as well as attending her brother-in-law Joshua Kushner's star-studded Western-themed second wedding to model Karlie Kloss in 2019. In another snapshot from the trip, Ivanka wore a sage green dress with long sleeves and a long, flowing skirt. She paired it with a boho disco belt on her hips and her white cowgirl boots Just last month, Ivanka and her family - Jared, plus their three kids - Arabella, 13, Joseph, 10, and Theodore, eight, were seen in Venice for pals Lauren Sanchez and Jeff Bezos' wedding. The family were seen doing some exploring around Venice before the festivities officially kicked off - with Donald Trump's grandkids all smiles for the outing. Since then, Ivanka was also spotted at 'billionaire summer camp' - also known as Allen & Co.'s annual leadership retreat - in Sun Valley, Idaho. The summer retreat included some laid-back activities like biking and hiking, per The Observer, but most importantly, the moguls were there for business. Also on the agenda were 'high-level meetings and private lectures,' the outlet reported, many of which are confidential and closed off to the public and media.
News.com.au
7 days ago
- Entertainment
- News.com.au
Influencer slammed for Japan post
An Australian influencer has been criticised online and accused of 'cultural appropriation' by some followers over her song choice and an outfit she wore in a social media post sharing photos from her current holiday in Japan. Sophia Begg, who goes by the name Sopha Dopha online and has more than 1.4 million followers, shared a carousel of photos from the first day of her trip in Tokyo on Instagram. However, the 21-year-old accompanied her 'photo dump' with a song in Mandarin by Chinese rapper SKAI ISYOURGOD called Blueprint Supreme. 'Day one: Tokyo,' Begg captioned the post, which included photos of her friends eating ramen, drinking matcha, shopping, and posing next to a vending machine and on trains. Some of her followers immediately noticed her choice of song. 'Girl I love you but please, the song isn't even in Japanese,' said one user, whose comment received over 100 likes. 'I fear this song is Chinese,' another bluntly pointed out. Others called her out for not only choosing a Mandarin song but also wearing a T-shirt with the Japanese word 'Suki' on it, meaning 'like' or 'love'. One user thought she was using 'culture for aesthetic' without actually understanding it. Another woman, who is Asian, said she also took issue with Begg wearing a shirt with Japanese characters on it. However, some defended her outfit and song choice saying the shirt 'looked good' and she was 'embracing the culture'. Someone else argued, 'I highly doubt she did it with malicious intent'. 'I don't understand why people can't appreciate other people's culture, even aesthetically,' asked a different user. Communications strategist Kriti Gupta, a South Asian woman, said that using a country's culture to be 'visually appealing' is an issue. 'Culture isn't a choice,' she explains. And even if the outfit and song choice was a 'misunderstanding,' - Ms Gupta reminds influencers to think carefully about their content before posting, as she says impact is more important than intent. Begg is yet to comment on the backlash online.
