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13 Best Small Towns in California, According to Locals and Experts
13 Best Small Towns in California, According to Locals and Experts

Travel + Leisure

time05-08-2025

  • Travel + Leisure

13 Best Small Towns in California, According to Locals and Experts

California's marquee cities—Los Angeles, San Francisco, and San Diego—tend to steal the show. These cities are home to some of the best food, cultural attractions, and vibrant communities in the nation, but the Golden State delivers something even more rewarding for those who veer off the major freeways: small towns filled with abundant charm. From artist enclaves and wine country spots to quiet beach towns and alpine outposts, the best small towns in California offer experiences you won't find in any major city. A busy patio in Healdsburg, California. Adrian Rudd/Travel + Leisure Healdsburg is a small town with plenty of buzz—and for good reason. "Healdsburg is truly a slice of small-town Americana," Daniel Strawn, the director of leisure sales at Montage Healdsburg, shared with Travel + Leisure about the community, which has a population of around 11,000 people. "What people don't realize is even though, yes, the region is known for wine, it truly has its roots as an agricultural community with many families living here for generations." Visitors can experience that balance between rural charm and modern refinement everywhere, including the town's Tuesday Concerts in the Park, three-Michelin-starred dining at SingleThread, and visits to its best galleries. Strawn is a big fan of The Harris Gallery—Art & Wine Collection, a father-and-son-run tasting lounge and gallery where you get the best of both worlds under one roof. Strawn also recommends visiting in early November, just after harvest, or during the quiet of winter: "These months offer the best time to curl up by our outdoor fire pits while drinking a glass of beautiful pinot noir." Sunset over a beach in Carmel-by-the-Sea. Lauren Breedlove/Travel + Leisure "This area is where the country meets the coast in one of the most breathtaking parts of California," Melissa Krueger, the CEO of Classic Vacations, shared about Carmel-by-the-Sea, which has a full-time population of just over 3,000 people. Think dramatic cliffs, redwoods, and white-sand beaches, all in the same panoramic view. Carmel is also filled with fairy-tale cottages, art galleries, and wine rooms. "It's perfect for outdoor lovers: hiking, golf, and coastal adventures are all part of the everyday experience," Krueger added. It's also the perfect place to bring your four-legged family member. "Carmel-by-the-Sea is a romantic destination that's also very pet-friendly," said Mark Jason Williams, the co-author of LGBTQ+ travel guide Out In the World . He recommended making a stop at Point Lobos State Natural Reserve during your stay, adding it's key to "stay for the sunset." Williams also noted that fall is a particularly great time to visit as it's the area's sunniest season, with September and October offering warm weather and perfect golden light. A person kayaking on Caples Lake near Kirkwood, is an escapist's dream come true in all four seasons. "While it's known for having some of the best skiing in California, summer is my favorite time here," Krueger said about this town with a population of just 400 full-time residents. "The wildflowers are incredible, the hiking is top-tier, and the alpine lakes are peaceful and pristine." However, it's key to note that this isn't the place for high-end hotels or plentiful amenities. "Services are minimal—just enough to get by—but that's part of the charm," Krueger said. She recommends grabbing a bite and then spending the day wandering the area trails or kayaking Silver Lake. Lifeguard stand in Carpintiera, California. Carpinteria, located just south of Santa Barbara, delivers beach-town charm in droves. "Carpinteria is a special town with its small, local, old-school surfer's vibe," Louise Astbury, the general manager of California-based Paradise Retreats, shared about the town with just under 13,000 residents. "The beach is amazing and claims to be the 'World's Safest Beach.'" Downtown "Carp" offers galleries, family-owned cafes, and walkable blocks for visitors to explore during a stay. Like others on this list, the shoulder season in October is a prime time to visit, thanks to the annual Avocado Festival and warm fall weather without the trouble of massive summer crowds. A vineyard in Lodi, California."Lodi reminds me a lot of Healdsburg 20 years ago," famed chef Charlie Palmer explained of the Central Valley town. "It's got all the right ingredients: amazing wines, hard-working growers, serious food talent, and a strong sense of community." With a larger population of around 67,000, it's not a true small town, but it remains somewhat under-the-radar as a travel destination, which makes it easier to meet winemakers and find open tables at the area's best restaurants. That said, you may want to hurry up and visit—Palmer sees Lodi as a town on the verge of a breakthrough. "You feel this energy, like it's right on the cusp of something big," Palmer added. Aerial view of Jonson's Beach in Guerneville, California."Guerneville is a charmingly rustic town on the Russian River," Lauren Levin, California resident and chief marketing officer of Lightstone/Moxy Hotels, said. "It mixes towering Redwoods, calm river waters ideal for tubing, and laid-back attitudes with trendy restaurants, breweries, and boutique hotels," along with a vibrant LGBTQ+ community. Levin recommended checking into the retro-chic Boon Hotel + Spa, renting a canoe, and ending the day with craft beer at Stumptown Brewery. Levin added that San Franciscans have long come here, and Angelenos are now catching on thanks to short flights into Santa Rosa. Storefronts in Los Olivos, California. "Tucked into the Santa Ynez Valley, Los Olivos feels like one of those rare places where time slows down in the best way," Levin said about the tiny town that's home to fewer than 1,000 people, about 45 minutes north of Santa Barbara. It's home to a walkable downtown that features wine-tasting rooms, art galleries, and shops, all "surrounded by vineyards, ranches, and open skies," Levin said. "It's equal parts rustic and refined." Sam Highley, the founder of U.S.-focused travel company All Roads North, agreed, noting the town is "the perfect place for a languid weekend exploring the winding backroads." A person hiking between giant sequoias in Three Rivers, Rivers, a town of 2,300 people located in the Sierra Foothills at the entrance to Sequoia National Park, deserves at least a full day's stop, according to Highley. "Many pass through the town on their way to the park, but that would be a mistake." According to Highley, there's whitewater rafting on the Kaweah River, hiking in the foothills, and an emerging food scene that simply must be tasted. Furthermore, Autocamp just opened a stylish glamping retreat here, offering riverside Airstreams and fire pits under the stars, making it a destination in its own right. A couple fishing in Mammoth Lakes, has one more must-visit small town to recommend for outdoor lovers: Mammoth Lakes. "As mountains go, Mammoth has never had the glitz of Aspen," Highley shared, "but things are fast changing." With its namesake high alpine lakes, fantastic hiking and biking trail systems, and nearby hot springs, the town that's home to fewer than 8,000 full-time residents is just as attractive to visit in the summer as it is during ski season. Buildings in Ojai, California. WendyWeatherup/Getty Images Ojai has long been the bohemian dream down in California, and Alex Alioto, the Cali-based head of growth at Whimstay, thinks it's high time you visit, too. The haven, Alioto said, is "nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains and has attracted artists, spiritual seekers, and luxury travelers for decades." With walkable streets full of wellness shops, bookstores, and juice bars, just about everyone can find their little slice of heaven. Alioto shared that it's best to come in spring for the citrus blossoms or in the fall for harvest season. Don't miss the "Pink Moment," when the mountains are bathed in a rosy alpenglow from the sunset. Buildings in downtown Solvang, California. With its half-timbered buildings, bakeries, and windmills, Solvang blends whimsy and tradition, and the town comes recommended by several of our local experts. "This little Danish town in California's Santa Ynez Valley was my very first taste of Europe," Jonathan Alder of Jonathan's Travels explained. "It still holds a special place in my heart." "Solvang is so unexpected. You're driving through wine country and suddenly find yourself in a Danish village, complete with windmills, wooden shoes in the windows, and bakeries selling aebleskivers (little pancake balls made of fried batter)," Eugene Triasun, from online travel agency eSky Group, added. "Solvang is playful and super walkable, and there's a warmth to it that goes beyond the architecture." According to Triasun, the best time to visit is in September during the Danish Days celebrations. Promenade with shops in Avila Beach, California. "Avila Beach takes its independent spirit seriously," Kirstin Koszorus of Highway 1 Road Trip shared. "The town has long embraced its role as the liaison between the sea and the woodlands and between the field and the vineyard." Koszorus said visitors can spend a day biking the Bob Jones Trail, hiking to the historic Point San Luis Lighthouse, or exploring the Central Coast Aquarium. She also noted you can always find something fresh at Valley Barn, including "seasonal fruits and vegetables, including world-famous See Canyon apples." Houses along the coast of Cambria, California. Joe Josephs/Cambria, a town of just 6,000 people, is the perfect pit stop on a road trip between two of California's major cities. "Perfectly positioned between Los Angeles and San Francisco, this pristine seaside village punches well above its weight culinarily," Alioto explained. "The town's remarkable restaurant scene rivals much larger destinations, featuring everything from farm-to-table establishments to oceanfront dining." But it's not just the food that makes it great. Alioto also recommended stopping at Moonstone Beach, which offers "dramatic coastline walks, while the village center bustles with art galleries, antique shops, and cozy bed-and-breakfasts housed in Victorian buildings." As for the ideal time to book a trip, Alioto said it's best to go in September or October for "warm, sunny days and calm seas."

The best budget hotels in Glasgow for location, style and heritage
The best budget hotels in Glasgow for location, style and heritage

The Independent

time14-07-2025

  • The Independent

The best budget hotels in Glasgow for location, style and heritage

Lately, Edinburgh folk have been moving to Glasgow to live more cheaply – and found themselves surprised by the cultural riches on offer. It's a similar experience for the visitor; your Scottish pounds will go further here than in the capital. The incredible range of free attractions includes Degas and Dali at the Burrell Collection and Kelvingrove Gallery; industrial history at the Riverside Museum; and the St Mungo Museum of Religious Life & Art. And while the food is more elevated (and healthier) than in decades past, the Glasgow ethos of high calorie-to-cost ratio endures. Not to mention the music scene; you can still catch intimate gigs by Mercury Prize-nominated artists for little more than a tenner. Appropriately, there are plenty of budget accommodations, and most are in the centre of town, so you won't compromise on location. Neither will you compromise on aesthetics. Far from being generic chains, Glasgow's budget hotels are a showcase of the clever design the city is famous for, whether that's in refurbishing a much-loved heritage building or making the most of a tiny space. For the best hotels in Glasgow and the best hotels near the airport in Glasgow, see our lists. 1. The Social Hub Glasgow hotel Aside from the stellar location – among the brunch bars and architectural jewels of Merchant City – this B Corp-run hotel's strength is its flexibility. Options include plush yet reasonably priced king rooms and small-but-mighty single rooms, all with private bathrooms and free Zenology toiletries. You'll get better rates for extended (two-plus weeks) stays and there's even all-inclusive student accommodation that costs less than most West End digs. What's more, your rate includes access to a coworking space, free laundry services and a gym. A rooftop bar is due to open later in 2025. Book now 2. The Address hotel A tighter budget usually means sacrificing style – not so here. Rooms mix traditional and luxe items, all sourced or crafted in Scotland, and there's a Mid-century influence apparent in the graceful lines, patterned curtains and the sepia-toned, Mad Men -esque colour palette. Chill for a couple of hours in the pink Himalayan salt sauna, grab reasonably priced pesto arancini or pork belly bao at North restaurant, then hit the shops. Having saved money here, you'll have more to spend on Buchanan Street, Glasgow's main artery, which is just seconds away. 3. AC Hotel Glasgow The cheaper rooms of this heritage hotel are in the modern extension, but your followers don't need to know that: snap a photo of the Grade A-listed sandstone facade (Glasgow's former Parish Hall) and caption it, 'look where I'm staying!'. Plus, the modern rooms have bigger windows and look out onto the City Chambers or Strathclyde University's Royal College. Head downstairs to the Scandi-chic Hazel restaurant for a seriously opulent (and great value) afternoon tea: the rotating menu may include parma ham and fig open sandwiches or strawberry and matcha Battenbergs. 4. Native Glasgow hotel This isn't the cheapest hotel on this list, but it may be the best value. For the price of a nice dinner, you'll get a studio apartment with a sofa, kitchen and dishwasher. The fixtures are all soft lighting, vintage-styled art and brass edging, inspired by the Art Deco stylings of the palatial exterior (this was once the headquarters of the Anchor Line Shipping Company). Downstairs, you'll find popular date spot The Anchor Line Restaurant, echoing a 1920s cruise ship with its marble bar and Prohibition-inspired cocktail menu. The George Square location puts you at the heart of everything. 5. Point A Hotel Glasgow At this price (and especially at this central, Bath Street location), you'd expect a sterile stay at best, yet this branch of budget travel chain Point A packs pops of colour and locally themed art in amongst clever amenities. Rooms are compact but cover all essentials: free Wi-Fi, logically placed charge points and intuitive air-con. Plus, you'll have fun with the mood lighting colour controls. The continental breakfast has a decent vegan range, including vegan blueberry croissants. Your rate includes discounts at nearby venues such as the excellent Maki & Ramen restaurant or The Butterfly and The Pig Tea Room. 6. Hotel Indigo Glasgow This handsome Victorian building was once one of Glasgow's first power stations – luckily, these prices won't give you a shock. Rooms have that velvet-and-flocked-brocade look typical of the Indigo brand, and come with a nifty workspace and hairdryer. There's also a fitness centre with treadmills, Swiss balls and free weights. The Turbine 75 restaurant serves pub classics and a mean Scottish breakfast with haggis in the morning. The central location puts you within walking distance of top sights, such as the Gallery of Modern Art (GoMA) and George Square. 7. Arthouse Hotel Glasgow This well-appointed 19th-century townhouse celebrates Scottishness in subtle ways, such as tartan bedspreads and lion rampant wallpaper. Blackout curtains ensure a good night's rest – unless you're bingeing a show on the free Wi-Fi, that is. Breakfast is served in the Brasserie Restaurant and includes oat and chia porridge, baked eggs with green shakshuka and vegan pancakes. With its tufted banquettes and smart, subway-tile walls, it's also a great place to enjoy their dinner menu of pan-European small plates. The city centre nightlife is just outside, including celebrated literary-themed cocktail bar The Last Bookstore, which has walls lined with 8,000 books. Address: 129 Bath St, Glasgow G2 2SZ 8. citizenM Glasgow hotel This outpost of the Dutch hotel brand sits in a handy town-centre spot, a short hop from the Glasgow Film Theatre and National Piping Centre. Like all CitizenM hotels, there's only one type of double room here – and, unfortunately, no option to convert to a twin room. The layout makes the most of the limited space; however, there's even a little desk and the ability to control lighting and temperature via a tablet. There's also an accessible room with a low bed and bathroom grab bars. The 24-hour restaurant-bar serves signature cocktails, comfort food and bar snacks including haggis pakoras. Book now 9. The Z Hotel Glasgow Exploring further afield? This budget city-centre hotel sits in an attractive former printworks two minutes from Queen Street station, from where trains depart east (to Stirling and Edinburgh) or west (to Loch Lomond). Or, if you're taking the car, you'll get discounted parking at a car park two minutes' walk away. Compact rooms cover all the essentials and have Sky TV, TNT Sports and underbed storage. The 'Z Inside Single' rooms are a real bargain, but be aware that 'inside' is a euphemism for 'windowless.' 10. Glasgow Youth Hostel In a twist worthy of an Old Firm derby, one of Glasgow's cheapest accommodations occupies some of the city's priciest real estate. You'll find Glasgow Youth Hostel in a high-ceilinged townhouse on the revered Park Terrace, overlooking Kelvingrove Park and minutes from Kelvingrove Gallery (free) and the Hunterian Museum (also free). The lounge preserves the building's moulded cornices and wood panelling – it's worth grabbing the bay window chairs if you can. Private ensuite rooms are available, and the bar is licensed to sell wine and beer. FAQs When is the cheapest time to visit Glasgow? The cheapest time to visit Glasgow is typically during the off-peak travel season, when demand is lower and prices for accommodation, flights, and attractions tend to drop. This tends to be between January and March, although it's worth noting that the weather is much colder. Midweek stays are also a good option for cheaper room rates. Is Glasgow expensive? Glasgow is one of the more affordable major cities in the UK, especially when compared to places like London or Edinburgh. There exists a wide range of food options and accommodation for all budgets, plus many attractions are free, such as museums. The city centre and West End are also walkable, meaning money saved on transport costs, too. What are the best free things to do in Glasgow? Glasgow is packed with free attractions and things to see and do. Gaze at Dali at Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum, expand your horizons at the Gallery of Modern Art (GoMA), head to The Hunterian Museum & Art Gallery – Scotland's oldest public museum – or enjoy the Riverside Museum & The Tall Ship, all of which enjoy free entry. Fancy a stroll? Head to the Glasgow Botanic Gardens for Victorian glasshouses and tranquil trails, venture into woodland walks and spot Highland cattle at Pollok Country Park, or head to Glasgow Green & The People's Palace – one of the city's oldest parks. There's also a free City Centre Mural Trail that takes in Glasgow's extensive street art scene. After dark, head to bars like The Hug and Pint or Nice N Sleazy for free live music. How much spending money do I need? How much spending money you need in Glasgow very much depends on the things you want to see and do. Budget travellers can get away with spending approximately £25 per day by making the most of free attractions, cheap eats and by walking or using public transport. Keen to spend a bit more? Mid-range travellers can expect to spend around £40 to £70, including all food and drinks, several paying attractions, snacks and transport. As for luxury travellers wanting to splash out on upscale dining, shopping and concerts? The sky's the limit.

Insiders' guide to Jakarta: from cultural festivals to traditional markets and hip coffee shops
Insiders' guide to Jakarta: from cultural festivals to traditional markets and hip coffee shops

South China Morning Post

time03-07-2025

  • South China Morning Post

Insiders' guide to Jakarta: from cultural festivals to traditional markets and hip coffee shops

Southeast Asia's largest city is unlike any other, its skyscrapers competing for space with colonial Dutch buildings such as the Jakarta History Museum (formerly the Batavia City Hall), the Bank Indonesia Museum (formerly the Dutch East Indies Bank) and the Jakarta Kota Railway Station. However, many travellers dismiss Jakarta as little more than a transit hub for travel across Indonesia. Spend a little time here, though, and you'll find cultural attractions aplenty, delicious food and drink, and a wealth of shopping opportunities. The real deal The entrance to Glodok, Jakarta's Chinatown. Photo: Josh Edwards 'To see the real Jakarta, take a wander down the alleyways, in the kampongs,' says coffee shop owner Reza Adhiatma, who was born and raised in the Indonesian capital. 'You'll see daily life unfolding, food vendors, people at work. It's an interesting contrast to the shiny side of Jakarta that most visitors see.' The city can be overwhelming to navigate, though, and Adhiatma recommends starting in Glodok. Museum MACAN is the place to go in Jakarta for modern and contemporary art. Photo: Josh Edwards

What's the best time of year for a city break in Malta?
What's the best time of year for a city break in Malta?

The Independent

time21-06-2025

  • The Independent

What's the best time of year for a city break in Malta?

Q I want to go to Valletta in Malta as a city break early next year. What I haven't decided is whether to visit in January or March. Which would you recommend? 'Boveney Girl' A As I have written many times before, Valletta is a glorious capital city – created in the 16th century by the Christian military order known as the Knights of St John. In any month you will be able to walk on the honey-coloured walls and explore the palaces and churches that they wrap around. All other things being equal – which they are not – March is the better of the two months in which to visit. The island in the deep south of the Mediterranean will be blossoming, and you will be able to share in the spring energy. Having said that, though, I recommend you go in January. That is because the advantage of being in Valletta compared with anywhere in the UK will be at its maximum. On 16 January – plumb in the middle of the month – Valletta will enjoy 10 hours of daylight, with a good chance that many of them will be sunny and warm. For comparison, London will have barely eight hours of daylight, and the likelihood of cloud and rain – possibly even snow. January also delivers the best deals for flying to Malta and staying there, though some properties will close during what is normally a very low-season month. You might also find that some of Valletta's eating and drinking venues are closed. Conversely, though, you will be able to visit all the top cultural attractions – in Valletta and elsewhere on the island – without the crowds that can build up at other times of the year. I particularly recommend the Three Towns on the other side of Valletta Harbour, which has some of the most atmospheric streets in Europe. The chance for some deep midwinter warmth in an enthralling location should do you the world of good and put you in a good travelling frame of mind for the rest of the year. Q Can you help clarify the situation in Cyprus? A large group of us are due to travel in a month for a family wedding. We are worried about issues involving Israel and Iran. I have heard rumours that flights have been brought forward and people have been flown home early. Gillian Richardson A I can understand the concerns of prospective travellers like you with trips booked to Cyprus. The Foreign Office warns that 'ongoing hostilities in the region' could 'escalate quickly and pose security risks for the wider region'. At its nearest, Israel is only 145 miles from the popular Cypriot resort of Ayia Napa. In addition, the UK has two military bases in Cyprus, which the foreign secretary, David Lammy, describes as 'hugely important at this time'. Yet despite the increasing regional conflict, there is no evidence of flights being brought forward, or of people being flown home early (except, presumably, in special cases due to other issues). Airlines and holiday companies are continuing with their normal operations and their standard terms and conditions. At present, I recommend that you go ahead with the plan. As the Foreign Office does not warn against travel to Cyprus, there is no prospect of being able to cancel a trip for a refund. Neither will travel insurance be of any help. If you have a proper package holiday booked, it can be transferred to someone else on payment of a nominal fee – typically £50. Alternatively, your holiday company may possibly offer the chance to switch to a different destination if there is capacity elsewhere. But with a family wedding scheduled, neither of these possibilities seems appropriate. In the unlikely event that the Foreign Office warned against travel to Cyprus, people with package holidays booked for imminent departure would be entitled to a full refund. Airlines would also be likely to offer refunds. Holidaymakers already on the island would be flown home as soon as possible. If it is of any comfort, I would happily travel to Cyprus this summer: it is a beautiful, cultured and friendly country. I have checked the official travel advice issued by the governments of Ireland, Australia, Canada and the US, and none of them raise concerns about the safety of their citizens. My main concern in July would simply be excessive heat. I hope everyone has good hats. Q We are doing a road trip in Portugal in August. Any particular places you could recommend to visit off the beaten track? Brendon Hahn A Portugal has two outstanding big cities – Lisbon and Porto – for which a car would be an encumbrance rather than a benefit. But pretty much everywhere else in the nation, driving is an excellent way to discover the many treasures off the tourism mainstream. In August I suggest you start in the north, as the temperature in the sometimes overheated south should dwindle as the month goes on. I assume you will rent a one-way car in Porto and drop it off at Faro on the Algarve. The northern portion begins in Aveiro, a lovely town embroidered by canals. Then spend the afternoon exploring Coimbra, a beautiful university city 75 miles south of Porto and 125 miles north of Lisbon. It is rich in culture, history and gastronomy, all wrapped into a compact core. Continue south to the celebrated Portuguese surfing hub of Nazare, where the Atlantic collides spectacularly with Europe. Then head inland to the nearby towns of Alcobaca and Batallha – each of which has an astonishing monastery steeped in history. Round off this religious pilgrimage with a visit to Fatima, home to the nation's most important shrine. One more stop before Lisbon: Obidos. This gorgeous walled city has preserved its medieval soul despite all the visitors attracted by its exquisite buildings. Then aim south on roads where driving is a pleasure, well constructed and delivering excellent views. Bypass the capital over the 25 April Bridge (Portugal's answer to the Golden Gate Bridge) and enjoy to the full the Setubal peninsula. Stop for the beach and seafood at Caparica; drive alongside a gorgeous corrugated coastline; witness the drama of Cabo Espichel, location for a vast, windswept monastery; and explore the city of Setubal itself, a relaxed fishing and ferry port with an atmospheric old quarter. Take the ferry across to the Troia peninsula and meander south along the coast, pausing in the picturesque town of Sines and, in the deep south, Sagres. Keep inland as you parallel the Algarve coast, ending your great drive in the handsome city of Silves before the short run to Faro airport. Q I am flying to Nice for the first time next week. What do you recommend in and around the city? Natalie W A Your timing is excellent. From the start of July, Nice will be besieged by French holidaymakers from the north of the nation. While you won't exactly have the place to yourself in late June, the narrow lanes of the old town, the top-class tourist attractions and some excellent bars and restaurants will not be too overcrowded. To get the measure of the city, I recommend you walk (or cycle) from the airport into the centre. Nice-Cote d'Azur airport is at the western end of the Promenade des Anglais, the wide seaside boulevard that arcs around to the Colline du Chateau – the hill that punctuates the end of the old town. If you prefer to cycle in 20 minutes rather than walk in 90, rent-it-here/leave-it-there bikes are widely available, including out at the airport. The two parallel systems are Lime and Pony; you will need the appropriate app for either. On your way in, pop your head around the door of the Hotel Negresco – the elaborate grande dame whose pink dome has presided over the promenade since 1913. Cours Saleya is an excellent place to catch your breath. It is a flower market flanked by cafes where you can sample socca, the local chickpea pancake. Besides exploring the old town, visit two excellent museums, each dedicated to a single artist: the Musee Chagall and the Musee Matisse. The latter has a lovely hillside location above the city at Cimiez, alongside the atmospheric 16th-century monastery where Matisse is buried. Surprisingly few tourists make it to the Orthodox cathedral of St Nicholas, a creation from the era when Nice was a playground for the Russian aristocracy. For a different dimension of the French Riviera, head for Villefranche-sur-Mer – a pretty fishing port that is one headland beyond Nice. Just six minutes by train from Nice Ville, the pace slows. Wander through the lanes and choose a waterside location for coffee or ice cream. Ideally, you should walk back. Take the steep paths and lanes over Mont Boron, which divides Villefranche from Nice. Your reward: yet more stirring views, and the chance of glimpsing Elton John, who has a house there.

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