Latest news with #dsm-firmenich
Cosmopolitan
17-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Cosmopolitan
Orris Root Perfumes Are the Next Big Perfume Trend of 2025
What do jasmine, rose, and oud have in common? They're some of the most expensive perfume ingredients in the world. Although pricey to produce and time-consuming to harvest, these notes aren't necessarily uncommon. You can find thousands of cheap perfumes made with these elegant olfactives, prices be damned. But have you ever sniffed—or heard of—orris? This rare material, which comes from the root of the iris flower, costs more per kilogram than all three of the ingredients mentioned above. Because of its price, orris isn't frequently used in mainstream perfumery. However, when a brand does decide to include the note, the result instantly captures the attention of die-hard fragrance fanatics. Take Commodity, for example: When the independent fragrance house brought back its cult-favorite Orris perfume for a limited run, people started to spiral—in a good way—and it sold out online in minutes. I consider myself a fragrance expert—I do write about perfume for a living, after all—but I hadn't paid much attention to orris until a recent trip to Paris. I sniffed my way through the city's niche perfume shops, and the only scents that completely blew my mind featured the same elusive note: Orris. Orris comes from the iris plant, particularly the root. "Iris is the plant—specifically iris pallida, iris germanica, or iris florentina—but the scent we associate with 'iris' in perfumery doesn't come from the flower," explains perfumer Gustavo Romero. "That striking bloom doesn't yield fragrant oil. The real magic comes from below the surface." The scented concentrate that ultimately gets blended into perfume is extracted from the iris plant's rhizomes, which are thick, root-like structures. "The rhizomes are dug up, peeled, dried, then aged and stored for three years—kind of like fine wine," explains Romero. "Only after this slow curing process do they develop irones—the aromatic molecules responsible for the creamy, powdery, suede-like orris scent that perfumers love," he explains. Iris plants can be found on every continent and are pretty easy to take care of. Heck, your mom or grandma maybe even grow irises in their gardens. Despite their prevalence, harvesting the roots for perfumery purposes is a lengthy, time-consuming process. "Orris demands a very labor-intensive extraction method that takes several years of drying and aging to develop its scent, which is why it's considered a luxury ingredient," explains Bella Varghese, fragrance development manager at dsm-firmenich. Not to mention, you need a ton (literally 2,000 pounds) of ground orris root to yield about 4.5 pounds of orris butter. Ben Krigler, a fifth-generation perfumer who runs Krigler, says that a tiny amount of orris butter can cost perfumers about $50,000. Orris' naturally powerful aroma also jacks up the price. "From an olfactive standpoint, the note depicts a luxurious effect because of the extreme richness of its profile," says Varghese. "Just a trace of it gives an amazingly intense impression." Sooooo, here's the interesting thing about orris. No one can pinpoint exactly what it smells like. Every perfumer will give you a different answer. Some say powdery and woody, while others will say sweet, yet slightly bitter. Orris is one of the most nuanced notes in perfumery—it completely transforms depending on what it's paired with, another aspect that makes it a highly-prized ingredient. "Orris is quiet, yet unforgettable," says Romero. "It's soft and textural, powdery without the fluff, and floral without being overly sweet. Imagine violet petals pressed into suede, dusty paper warmed by skin, or the inside of an old leather-bound book. It doesn't merely scent a perfume; it shapes its atmosphere." Sometimes orris is included in a fragrance not because of its unique aromatic profile, but rather because it acts as a booster to strengthen the overall fragrance. "Orris also works as a fixative—a material used to stabilize and prolong the scent of a perfume—which can help enhance all of the other notes," explains Varghese. "Interestingly, orris has a natural fixative property that slows down the evaporation of the top and middle notes, helping the fragrance last longer on skin and maintain its character over long periods of time." Truthfully, orris meshes well with virtually every note. "Orris is a natural harmonizer," says Romero. "It rounds out compositions and adds polish without overpowering the end result." When orris was first introduced in perfumery, Varghese says it was most often paired with "bold florals, like roses and a medley of musks." As fragrance houses have gotten more experimental, perfumers have pushed boundaries to meld orris with leather, vanilla, and raspberry—but that's just the tip of the iceberg. For example, The Maker Naked leverages orris' powdery facets by combining the note with violet, spicy pink pepper, and papyrus for a musky, bewitching skin scent. On the complete opposite side of the perfume spectrum, the addition of orris in Byredo Eyes Closed softens the spiciness of cinnamon, cardamom, and ginger so the scent lays like smooth velvet on skin. Due to the fact that orris is so damn expensive, the most prestige fragrance houses only have one or two perfumes that feature the note. Take Tom Ford—out of the 135 scents the brand has produced over the years, Fucking Fabulous is the only one to include orris. Valentino recently introduced orris to its perfume catalogue with the launch of its elevated Anatomy of Dreams line. Amouage, often touted as the most luxurious perfume house in the world, rarely includes orris in its scents. You can find it sprinkled into a few perfumes, including Lustre, from its newest collection. Krigler has one sole perfume in its permanent anthology that features orris—Palm Dream 219—but the prestige house can custom make an orris scent for you... it'll just cost tens of thousands of dollars. You don't have to go into debt to experience the magic of orris, though. (I promise!) Some perfume houses have begun incorporating the ambiguous note into their scents without reaching exorbitant prices. (I have no idea how, but I'm not complaining.) Phlur combines orris with lush fig and dewy jasmine in Father Figure, one of its bestselling creations. Snif continuously churns out budget-friendly perfumes that rival luxury houses, and they've thrown themselves into the orris ring with the mega-successful Me, a peachy, musky skin scent that achieves universal appeal thanks to—you guessed it—orris. The influencer-founded brand Ledda created one of the most stunning orris scents I've ever smelled. Orris 22 is nothing short of angelic, and it embodies a cozy rainy day spent wrapped in your lover's arms with orris, marshmallow, jasmine, and sandalwood. "If you want something that feels thoughtful, intimate, and subtly expensive—something that invites people to lean closer—orris is your note," says Romero. I'm a firm believer that no perfume collection is complete without a scent that contains orris. Since discovering—and falling in love with the ingredient—my fragrance library feels more elevated and distinguished. In the words of Krigler, "it's pure art." Mary Honkus is a beauty contributor for Cosmopolitan with over seven years of experience researching, writing, and editing beauty stories, including a deep dive on the strawberry perfume trend, finding the best wedding scents. She is an authority in all beauty categories, but has a sweet spot for fragrance with a collection of over 200 scents. After becoming completely captivated with orris perfumes, she began researching the rare note. For this story, she interviewed three fragrance experts to learn more about orris and what makes it so rare.
Yahoo
15-07-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Weekly progress on share repurchase program to cover share plans and reduce capital
Press Release Weekly progress on share repurchase program to cover share plans and reduce capital Kaiseraugst (Switzerland), Maastricht (Netherlands), July 15, 2025 dsm-firmenich, innovators in nutrition, health, and beauty, announced on February 13, 2025 its intention to repurchase ordinary shares with an aggregate market value of €1 billion and reduce its issued capital, starting with an initial €500 million. On April 1, 2025, the company commenced a program to repurchase ordinary shares for a total amount of €580 million, of which €80 million to cover commitments under the Group's share-based compensation plans and €500 million to reduce its issued capital. On June 27, 2025, the company announced the increase of the share repurchase program to €1,080 million following the completion of the previously announced sale of dsm-firmenich's stake in the Feed Enzymes Alliance. In accordance with regulations, dsm-firmenich informs the market that during the period from July 7, 2025 up to and including July 11, 2025 a total number of 293,078 shares have been repurchased on its behalf. The shares were repurchased at an average price of €90.16 per share for a total amount of €26.4 million. The total number of shares repurchased under this program to date is 4,528,509 shares at an average price of €93.8 for a total consideration of €424.8 million. This €1,080 million share repurchase program will be completed no later than January 30, 2026. For more detailed information see 'Daily transaction details Share Repurchase Program announced April 1, 2025'. For more information, please contact: dsm-firmenich investor relations enquiries:Email: investors@ dsm-firmenich media enquiries:Email: media@ About dsm-firmenichAs innovators in nutrition, health, and beauty, dsm-firmenich reinvents, manufactures, and combines vital nutrients, flavors, and fragrances for the world's growing population to thrive. With our comprehensive range of solutions, with natural and renewable ingredients and renowned science and technology capabilities, we work to create what is essential for life, desirable for consumers, and more sustainable for the planet. dsm-firmenich is a Swiss company with dual headquarters in Kaiseraugst, Switzerland and Maastricht, Netherlands, listed on the Euronext Amsterdam, with operations in almost 60 countries and revenues of more than €12 billion. With a diverse, worldwide team of nearly 30,000 employees, we bring progress to life every day, everywhere, for billions of people. Disclaimer This press release does not constitute or form part of, an offer or any solicitation of an offer for securities in any jurisdiction. This press release may contain forward-looking statements with respect to dsm-firmenich's future. Such statements are based on current expectations, estimates and projections of dsm-firmenich and information currently available to the company. dsm-firmenich cautions readers that such statements involve certain risks and uncertainties that are difficult to predict and therefore it should be understood that many factors can cause actual performance and position to differ materially from these statements. dsm-firmenich has no obligation to update the statements contained in this press release, unless required by law. This communication contains information that qualifies as inside information within the meaning of Article 7(1) of the EU Market Abuse Regulation. The English language version of this press release prevails over other language versions. Attachment Press release_dsm-firmenich progress on share repurchase program_20250715
Yahoo
01-07-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
dsm-firmenich announces redemption of €750 million hybrid bond
Press Release dsm-firmenich announces redemption of €750 million hybrid bond Kaiseraugst (Switzerland), Maastricht (Netherlands), July 1, 2025 dsm-firmenich, innovators in nutrition, health, and beauty, has decided to call and redeem the €750 million Deeply Subordinated Fixed Rate Resettable Perpetual Loan Notes (the 'hybrid bond') issued on May 27, 2020 (XS2182055009) by Firmenich International SA (the 'Issuer'), a direct subsidiary of DSM-Firmenich A.G. The €750 million hybrid bond, with a coupon of 3.75%, is treated as equity under IFRS rules. The Issuer is exercising its right to call and redeem the €750 million hybrid bond at 100 percent of its nominal value plus accrued interest on August 5. Formal notice of redemption in accordance with the terms and conditions of the hybrid bond has been given separately. For more information, please contact:dsm-firmenich investor relations enquiries:Email: investors@ dsm-firmenich media enquiries:Email: media@ About dsm-firmenichAs innovators in nutrition, health, and beauty, dsm-firmenich reinvents, manufactures, and combines vital nutrients, flavors, and fragrances for the world's growing population to thrive. With our comprehensive range of solutions, with natural and renewable ingredients and renowned science and technology capabilities, we work to create what is essential for life, desirable for consumers, and more sustainable for the planet. dsm-firmenich is a Swiss company with dual headquarters in Kaiseraugst, Switzerland and Maastricht, Netherlands, listed on the Euronext Amsterdam, with operations in almost 60 countries and revenues of more than €12 billion. With a diverse, worldwide team of nearly 30,000 employees, we bring progress to life every day, everywhere, for billions of people. Disclaimer This press release does not constitute or form part of, an offer or any solicitation of an offer for securities in any jurisdiction. This press release may contain forward-looking statements with respect to dsm-firmenich's future. Such statements are based on current expectations, estimates and projections of dsm-firmenich and information currently available to the company. dsm-firmenich cautions readers that such statements involve certain risks and uncertainties that are difficult to predict and therefore it should be understood that many factors can cause actual performance and position to differ materially from these statements. dsm-firmenich has no obligation to update the statements contained in this press release, unless required by law. Elements of this press release contain or may contain information about dsm-firmenich within the meaning of Article 7(1) to (4) of EU Regulation No 596/ 2014 (Market Abuse Regulation). The English language version of this press release prevails over other language versions. Attachment Press release_dsm-firmenich announces redemption of €750 million hybrid bond_20250701_FINALSign in to access your portfolio
The Age
28-06-2025
- Business
- The Age
Big Smell: Behind the world's fragrances sits a shadowy oligopoly
Damp carpet and old coffee. That is how a perfumier might have described the ' top notes ' – industry speak for the initial olfactory experience – at SIMPPAR, the annual fragrance-ingredient expo held this month in Paris. It is where vendors from Sicilian dynasties to Japanese chemical firms gather to showcase their ingredients. Some are natural. The centifolia rose, a beautifully pungent pink flower harvested at dawn, at its peak potency, makes for excellent marketing material. Less romantic but highly lucrative are the synthetic ingredients. These molecules allow their makers to isolate specific smells, spare the animals once killed for their secretions and give fragrances staying power. Sellers of such raw materials grumble openly about many things. Deepu Nair of Greenleaf Extractions, an Indian supplier, complains that unpredictable weather has ravaged his country's ginger crop. Laura Johnston of Ultra International, a Dutch pedlar of essential oils, laments that regulations aimed at ensuring ingredients' safety and traceability are ever increasing. But few wish to discuss the biggest question hanging over their industry: the fate of the four giants that dominate the business of turning raw materials into flavours and fragrances for brands. America's International Flavours and Fragrances (IFF), Germany's Symrise and Switzerland's dsm-firmenich and Givaudan control some two-thirds of that market. Their haute perfumiers develop the formulas for lines by Yves Saint Laurent, Hugo Boss and others. Their functional perfumiers create scents for Procter & Gamble's laundry detergent. Their flavourists work with Coca-Cola. Meanwhile, their chemists produce in-house synthetic ingredients. Loading To protect their formulas, the four have developed a culture of secrecy. The competition for commissions, or briefs, is fierce – or at least it is meant to be. Over the past two years trustbusters have been poking their noses into all this. In 2023 EU authorities raided the four's offices. Swiss and British antitrust cops have also been investigating. Allegations include price-fixing and divvying up customers. (Givaudan, dsm-firmenich and IFF say they are co-operating; Symrise, which Britain dropped from its probe last month, did not reply to The Economist.) These probes have also encouraged civil lawsuits. In February an American judge declined to toss out a class action against the companies brought by a group of consumers and smaller businesses over alleged anti-competitive behaviour. (The four firms have denied wrongdoing.)
Sydney Morning Herald
28-06-2025
- Business
- Sydney Morning Herald
Big Smell: Behind the world's fragrances sits a shadowy oligopoly
Damp carpet and old coffee. That is how a perfumier might have described the ' top notes ' – industry speak for the initial olfactory experience – at SIMPPAR, the annual fragrance-ingredient expo held this month in Paris. It is where vendors from Sicilian dynasties to Japanese chemical firms gather to showcase their ingredients. Some are natural. The centifolia rose, a beautifully pungent pink flower harvested at dawn, at its peak potency, makes for excellent marketing material. Less romantic but highly lucrative are the synthetic ingredients. These molecules allow their makers to isolate specific smells, spare the animals once killed for their secretions and give fragrances staying power. Sellers of such raw materials grumble openly about many things. Deepu Nair of Greenleaf Extractions, an Indian supplier, complains that unpredictable weather has ravaged his country's ginger crop. Laura Johnston of Ultra International, a Dutch pedlar of essential oils, laments that regulations aimed at ensuring ingredients' safety and traceability are ever increasing. But few wish to discuss the biggest question hanging over their industry: the fate of the four giants that dominate the business of turning raw materials into flavours and fragrances for brands. America's International Flavours and Fragrances (IFF), Germany's Symrise and Switzerland's dsm-firmenich and Givaudan control some two-thirds of that market. Their haute perfumiers develop the formulas for lines by Yves Saint Laurent, Hugo Boss and others. Their functional perfumiers create scents for Procter & Gamble's laundry detergent. Their flavourists work with Coca-Cola. Meanwhile, their chemists produce in-house synthetic ingredients. Loading To protect their formulas, the four have developed a culture of secrecy. The competition for commissions, or briefs, is fierce – or at least it is meant to be. Over the past two years trustbusters have been poking their noses into all this. In 2023 EU authorities raided the four's offices. Swiss and British antitrust cops have also been investigating. Allegations include price-fixing and divvying up customers. (Givaudan, dsm-firmenich and IFF say they are co-operating; Symrise, which Britain dropped from its probe last month, did not reply to The Economist.) These probes have also encouraged civil lawsuits. In February an American judge declined to toss out a class action against the companies brought by a group of consumers and smaller businesses over alleged anti-competitive behaviour. (The four firms have denied wrongdoing.)
