16-05-2025
My extravagant weekend on the cognac trail
Nothing says status like cognac, that's why rappers love it so much. But Cognac itself, a tranquil town in rural western France, is not quite what one might be expecting. To the casual observer wandering the cobbled streets, passing pale stone buildings with white sun-bleached shutters, it will not be apparent that this sleepy place is home to the most prestigious liquor houses in the world. It is behind closed doors and in dark cellars that since the 17th century cellar masters have fermented, distilled and aged grapes to create rare eau-de-vie spirit, which is then blended to create the amber liquid with which this town is synonymous.
A two-hour drive from Bordeaux airport, the town is a honeypot for cognac lovers who come to make private tours of the vineyards and historic cellars of such prestigious cognac houses as Rémy Martin and Hennessy. Maison Martell's museum showcases the history of the production house, running since 1715 when Jean Martell arrived from Jersey aged 21. The museum's archives span 300 years, including letters written to the original vineries and art deco cognac ads. We enter the dim caves of the founder's cellar, sweet with the musky scent of cognac. There dusty oak barrels dating from the 1600s hold the original eau-de-vie which is still used to mix Martell today.
Nearby, in the heart of the Bordeaux terroir, is the historic estate that was home to several generations of the Martell family. The 16th-century Château de Chanteloup is so idyllic that as we arrive in soft sunshine the tame baby deer that live in the grounds come to greet us on the terrace. Inside, it's art de vivre elegance, exquisitely decorated with pink velvet sofas with orange trim, white marble fireplaces, turquoise lamps and antique rugs found in the attic and hung on the walls as tapestries.
The château has recently been opened to the public, although still only 'private friends of Martell' can stay. For everyone else, at the cost of €500 per person, it is possible to book a private table for six for a unique gastronomic experience: a pairing menu created by the Martel cellar master Christophe Valtaud and the three-Michelin-star chef Alexandre Mazzia in which rare Martell cognac is paired with gourmet cuisine, and served in a private dining room.
The decor is softened minimalism. To one side of us is the open kitchen — all steel and chefs in whites. The menu is an opera of foods, prepared by the orchestra of chefs who we watch apply glazes, fire blow torches and sending our way edible objets d'art, some shaped like blossoming flowers, each paired to a richly smoked cognac.
We are served langoustine with a seaweed and popcorn bonita and sesame and lemon-geranium condiment paired with Martell Odyssée. Followed by sweet, firm ceps cannele soaked and flambeed with cognac served with Martel XXO Grande Champagne. Coffee ice cream with cardamom, crystallised tobacco-leaf and cognac milk is served with Martell Epoche.
It is an epic experience. And, like all the best things in this quiet town, only found if you know where to look.
The Signature Martell Dining Experience costs €500pp, with a Cellar Experience €800, and with a Private Blending Experience, €1,800,
House of Hennessy offers private visits dedicated to the life of its founder Richard Hennessy, which includes a rare tour of the founder's cellar, and a private guided tasting of Hennessy XO and Richard Hennessy, a blend made from some of the cellar's scarcest Richard Hennessy Private Tour, €500pp,
An hour-long vintage horse-drawn carriage ride around the vineyards of this family-run artisanal cognac producer includes a tour with a member of the Bourgoin family and the chance to sample Pineau des Charentes among the vines. Details From €90,
An experience dedicated to Louis XIII, Rémy Martin's finest cognac, takes guests inside the house's oldest cellars, on a tour of the Grande Champagne vineyards and includes tastings of the exclusive Louis XIII From €1500. Louis XIII The Experience. House of Remy Martin, Juillac-le-Coq,.
