Latest news with #fashionhistory
CBC
26-07-2025
- Entertainment
- CBC
Decades of ‘I dos': A look at wedding dresses through the ages
A museum in Nova Scotia's Annapolis Valley is showcasing how wedding dresses have evolved throughout history. The CBC's Aly Thomson recently visited the Macdonald Museum to learn about how matrimonial garb has changed and how people from different cultures dress for their big day.
Daily Mail
23-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Daily Mail
How the high society designer behind Sarah Ferguson's wedding dress 'fell out' with Carole Middleton after being given surprising request
When the Duchess of York commissioned Lindka Cierach to design her wedding dress on July 23 1986, the couturier catapulted her into the limelight, earning her nothing but praise for the lavish gown. She founded her own company, Lindka Cierach Couture, in 1979 and her first commission was a wedding dress for a Bahranian princess, which drew attention from the Middle East. But it was not until she designed Fergie's £35,000 ivory duchess satin gown, with its 17½ft-long train, that her place was cemented in fashion history. The dress, with a waistline which dropped to a point and a scooped neckline, proved a foil for her veil and headdress. Manolo Blahnik created her shoes, which were beaded with bees and ribbons in pearls and diamante. Initially Fergie wanted teddy bears and helicopters embroidered on the dress, but Cierach pointed her in a different direction. But, in the four decades since that historic day, Fergie, 65, has been in and out of the headlines for her romantic entanglements, financial disasters, and struggles with cancer and mental health. While she and Prince Andrew were divorced ten years later, the parents of Princess Beatrice and Princess Eugenie, still live together in the £30 million mansion Royal Lodge in the heart of Windsor Great Park. Now, in an extraordinary parallel, Cierach, 73, has had her own share of adverse publicity as she has negotiated life in the aftermath of the Royal wedding. Five full-time beaders then embroidered the bride's own coat of arms on the garment with thistles and bees interwoven with the couple's heraldic initials and naval anchors with waves and hearts But it was not until she designed Fergie's £35,000 ivory duchess satin gown, with its 17½ft-long train with an S and an A in silver beads, that her place was cemented in fashion history The London College of Fashion graduate, who once dated TV supremo Michael Grade, eventually gave up on the fashion world to become a sound healer after a public fallout with the Princess of Wales' mother Carole Middleton. She fell out with Carole Middleton over her outfit for William and Kate's wedding. She selected the couturier to design her outfit, spending four months attending many secret fittings, before ditching her at the 11th hour. The designer, who numbers Queen Rania of Jordan and Hollywood star Catherine Zeta-Jones amongst her clients, has always refused to discuss the dispute. But reportedly Carole asked the couturier to deliver the unfinished outfit to her home, so she could show it to her friends, and Cierach would only allow the garment to leave her studio if she accompanied it. According to a source, Cierach was taken aback when Middleton claimed the designer was 'unaccommodating' and said she no longer wished to wear the outfit. She was reported to have been left surprised by the 'unconventional' request and 'completely bemused after all the hard work she had put into creating the outfit'. It is now 12 years since Cierach teamed up with Newcastle University graduate Cherub Sanson, to found the Sister Sound Circle, a 'sacred space, celebrating and supporting women in our community.' 'I used to get very drained by being with difficult people,' she said pointedly in an online comment explaining about her new path.' 'I started Sister Sound Circle in 2013, with my spirit mama, Lindka Cierach,' wrote Sanson, 'through my own desire to sing in a safe environment with a sisterhood, who's (sic) ethos was to complete each other, not compete with each other. 'It's been an epic journey, from starting out - not sure how to hold a circle, or what it should consist of - we kept holding them under the light of every full moon, and our Sister Sound Circle grew and grew. 'Ten years on, we have opened our circle to women both living in and travelling through London from all over the world….Together we sing, drum. share, laugh, cry, meditate and elevate our consciousness as one tribe.' Born in Lesotho, Cierach spent her early years in Africa, with her siblings Kasia, who ran a soft furnishing studio, and brother John, who ran a wet fish and food business. Her father Edek, who was Polish and a devout Catholic, spent much of World War II in a Siberian concentration camp, building the trans-Siberian railway, and went onto map Africa for the British Government. Her mother Diana taught her how to sew. 'My mother helped to develop my love of sewing,' she once said, 'as I used to watch her doing embroidery and smocking. 'She has a fine intellectual mind, and her dream was to have a career - but her father poo-poohed all her ambitions and sent her to Africa to be 'tidied up'. That is where she met my father.' Cierach attended a convent school in London and worked at Vogue magazine before studying at the London College of Fashion. On graduation, she was apprenticed to Japanese designer Yuki. She soon gained a reputation for designing exquisite wedding gowns for society brides such as Lady Rose Cecil, daughter of the Marquess of Salisbury, Jocelyn Stevens's daughter Pandora, and the heiress Charlotte Monckton. 'I was overwhelmed and delighted to get a call from Sarah Ferguson the day after her engagement,' she said afterwards. 'I had never made anything for her before, although I had met her at a couple of social occasions. 'She wanted me to do some wedding dress sketches, and I sketched like crazy. I even dreamed I had a vision from the vaults of Westminster Abbey. 'On the morning, she was due to ring me back, there was total panic. I locked myself out of the house and stood on the doorstep hearing the telephone ring, but we managed to get together the following day. 'Once I started to work with her, I realised what was appropriate. She has strong looks and a wonderful body. And we had great fun, although she was under tremendous pressure. 'We joked about putting bumble bees and helicopters into the design. Seriously, I felt the dress had to be something that would live through history.' Five full-time beaders then embroidered the bride's own coat of arms on the garment with thistles and bees interwoven with the couple's heraldic initials and naval anchors with waves and hearts. Afterwards Fergie wrote in her memoir: 'Lindka was a genius; I knew she could make the most flattering gown ever, and she had. It was amazingly boned, like a corset. After a traditional wedding breakfast for 120 guests at Buckingham Palace, the married couple and some 300 guests moved to a party at Claridge's hotel 'We'd chosen duchess satin because it is the creamiest material in the world. It never creases. It is smooth as glass and hangs beautifully, without a single bulge; it made my reduced figure look even better.' The following year Cierach was named Designer of the Year. Jilly Cooper based her fictional designer in the 2002 bestseller Pandora on her and she took part in the 2006 ITV series Ladette to Lady, tutoring foulmouthed young girls to speak nicely. But, no matter how many diverse projects she has been involved with, she will always be remembered for Fergie's flattering wedding gown…
Yahoo
17-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Original Hermès Birkin Bag Fetches $10.1 Million at Paris Auction
After 10 minutes of frenzied bidding in Paris on Thursday, Jane Birkin's original Hermès Birkin sold for $10.1 million at Sotheby's in Paris, shattering the previous record by nearly 20 times. Sotheby's said the sale 'establishes new benchmarks for the most valuable fashion item sold at auction in Europe, and the most valuable luxury item ever sold at Sotheby's Paris.' More from WWD Ben Ahlers on 'The Gilded Age,' Being a Meme and His Journey From Iowa to HBO Stardom At Wimbledon, Fashion Matters Just Much as Tennis How Jane Birkin Helped Design Hermès' Most Popular Handbag: Her Inspiration, Royalties and the $10 Million Bag The opening bid was 1 million euros, prompting gasps in the room and sparking an 'electrifying' bidding battle between nine collectors, according to Sotheby's, which fielded bids from within the room, online and over the phone. 'In the end, the handbag that changed fashion history was met with applause as it sold to a private collector from Japan, bidding via telephone through Maiko Ichikawa, country head of Sotheby's Japan.' Billed as 'one of the most iconic fashion items ever created,' the all-black leather Birkin prototype commissioned in 1984 spawned one of the world's most recognizable and coveted handbag styles, and turned Birkin, a British actress and singer, from a style icon into a household name. In the run-up to Thursday's sale, thousands of people attended exhibitions of the handbag in Paris and Hong Kong, and 270 participants from 38 countries registered for Thursday's 'Fashion Icons' auction, with the Birkin bag the star lot. Morgane Halimi, Sotheby's global head of handbags and fashion, said the record-breaking sale price 'is a startling demonstration of the power of a legend and its capacity to ignite the passion and desire of collectors seeking exceptional items with unique provenance.' She also lauded 'the enduring spirit and appeal of its muse, Jane Birkin.' Sotheby's noted that the previous auction record for a handbag was a White Himalaya Niloticus Crocodile Diamond Retourne Kelly 28, which fetched $513,040 in 2021, while the current auction record for any fashion item is a pair of ruby slippers from 'The Wizard of Oz,' which sold for $32.5 million last year. Best of WWD Why Tennis Players Wear All White at Wimbledon: The Championships' Historic Dress Code Explained Kate Middleton's Looks at Trooping the Colour Through the Years [PHOTOS] Young Brooke Shields' Style Evolution, Archive Photos: From Runway Modeling & Red Carpets to Meeting Princess Diana Solve the daily Crossword
CNA
24-06-2025
- Lifestyle
- CNA
Workwear 101: How to style 5 office pants that are versatile enough for evening socials
While they are now a staple in our wardrobes, pants weren't always accepted as everyday clothing for women – at least in Western cultures, and not until the mid-20th century. From being a political statement and symbol of female empowerment back in those days, they have also become a style statement in modern times. Where the history of women's pants is concerned, it's a must to mention Gabrielle Chanel, who was perhaps the biggest pants-loving fashion icon of all time. Not only did she enjoy wearing them herself, she introduced them into her collections and popularised them as stylish apparel for women. Certainly, we wear pants for the ease of movement and comfort that they provide, but it's not just for practicality that we choose them over dresses or skirts from time to time. They allow us to express our personal style – pants can be elegant, androgynous or feminine, casual and formal, making them appropriate for every occasion, which includes work in a corporate setting. Personal stylist Sera Murphy, who also goes by The Reoutfitter, also pointed out how pants rate high on versatility. 'They open up opportunities for 'separates dressing', allowing you to mix and match tops and bottoms in a way that feels personal and expressive. Don't limit yourself to just one go-to shape – having a rotation of different pant styles makes it easier to switch up tops and avoid falling into a styling rut,' she said. She gives us tips on to make different types of pants work for your figure and dressing for the office. A quick change of accessories or shoes and your work pants can magically turn into your go-to for after-hours. 1. STRAIGHT-CUT PANTS These pants are cut straight from the hips to the hems, which means they'll skim the figure instead of clinging to it – which means they'll suit a wide range of body shapes. 'They also pair easily with most tops and shoes, which is why I often recommend this cut as a foundational wardrobe piece,' said Murphy. 'If you're petite, opt for a pair that hits just above the ankle to avoid overwhelming the frame. This also keeps fabric from bunching up where the hems hit the shoe. Taller individuals, however, might prefer a full-length version that grazes the top of the foot.' When it comes to fabric, a structured cotton or denim will be great for hybrid workwear, while a sleek wool or suiting fabric looks more formal and office-ready. Straight-cut pants pair easily with much of your wardrobe, since they'll go great with any top, both tucked out or in. 'Try voluminous or flowy blouses, tops with sleeve detailing or a fun neckline to add interest to the overall look. You can dress these pants down with a T-shirt and loafers, or dress them up with a silk blouse and sharp-looking heels,' she added. 2. WIDE-LEG PANTS These pants come in a variety of hem widths – from gently flared to dramatically wide. 'Not all wide-leg pants are the same, but there's a version out there for everyone. This silhouette is also universally flattering – it draws attention to the waist and creates the illusion of a longer leg,' said Murphy. 'Fit at the waist is critical here – it keeps the overall look balanced. A higher rise works well for those with longer torsos or shorter legs. If you have a shorter torso, a mid or lower-rise may feel more comfortable and visually balanced,' she added. The fabric counts, too – for example, wide-leg trousers in drapey textiles will look more elegant and fluid, perfect for wearing with heels for added polish. 'Structured versions, like denim or sailor-style trousers, lend a strong, trendy feel. These can work beautifully with flats or (office-appropriate) sneakers.' Tops should always be tucked into wide-leg pants to keep the waist looking defined – this will help you avoid that "swallowed by fabric" look. A belt can also be a great tool for creating an hourglass silhouette. 3. TAPERED PANTS With a roomier fit at the hips and thighs that narrows toward the ankles, tapered pants will subtly define your shape. These are pants that provide a comfortable fit at the thigh area, and yet create a clean and sharp silhouette. 'They work particularly well if you're curvier on top and have an 'inverted triangle' figure, since the volume at the top of the pants will balance out the hip area in relation to your overall figure, while the tapered bottom won't add bulk. A mid- to high-rise waistband works best here to elongate the leg and define the waist,' she said. She noted that tapered trousers often come with pleats, darts or elasticised waists. Such features can add volume so it's important to ensure the pants are of the right fit and fabric. Try materials like wool or cotton twill for better structure. Ideally, the hemline should hit just above the ankle – a length that works best with flat shoes or low heels. 4. CIGARETTE PANTS This silhouette is sharp, sophisticated and has a slim profile. While they'll fit closer on the hips and thighs, cigarette pants are cut straight from the knees to the hems. 'Think of them as the grown-up evolution of skinny pants, without the skin-tight fit. Cigarette pants work beautifully for formal or traditional office settings, but they're also a go-to for anyone who loves a clean, minimal aesthetic. Their cropped length makes them ideal for showcasing footwear, especially a pointed-toe flat, kitten heel or classic pump,' said Murphy. They will suit those with straighter legs or more balanced proportions best, but can also work on other body types – in the right fit and with appropriate styling or minor alterations to the waistband or pants length, if necessary. Fabric choice matters, since these pants fit snugly. 'Traditional suiting fabric works best. I tend to steer clients away from overly thin or clingy fabrics in this silhouette, as they can look casual – like leggings or skinny jeans, which can be unflattering on some,' she added. They'll look equally chic whether worn with a crisp button-down or fitted knit top. 5. PLEATED PANTS 'These pants can be wide, straight or tapered, so it's less about what's happening on their lower half but rather the placement, design and number of the pleats just below the waist,' said Murphy. Pleats create extra room through the hip and thigh, hiding a belly and providing wearing comfort. 'These pants work great for those with a curvy figure or a longer torso, since they'll offer a more natural fit than that of flat-front trousers.' However, they can also add volume around the hips. To avoid this, wear them with fitted or tucked-in tops, which help define the waist and keep the proportions clean. Fabric also plays a big role in how pleats behave. Lightweight wool, polyester, crepe and cotton twill allow the pleats to fall softly without adding bulk, while stiffer fabrics can make the shape feel more dramatic. 'Be mindful of where the pleat opens – too low and it can disrupt proportions; too high and it might add unwanted volume. The same can be said about the number of pleats on each side,' advised Murphy. With so many variations of pleated-front pants out there, it will take trying on and experimenting with different versions to find the best one for you.
Daily Mail
04-06-2025
- General
- Daily Mail
People are only just realising what the loop on the back of shirts is for
There's a tiny loop on the back of shirts that, unbeknownst to most men and women, has a specific purpose. Found between the shoulder blades, where the yoke (upper back) of the shirt meets the pleat, the loop is not, however, a new design feature. Rather, it has a long history and, while its principal purpose has remained the same over time, it has also had other, very novel uses at various points. A feature of both men's and women's shirts, the loop tends to be overlooked by people today. But, according to a number of online sources, including website Mental Floss, the loop's origins lie with the US Navy and, specifically, sailors' close quarters. Since sailors didn't have wardrobes to hang up their shirts - they simply had space-saving lockers - the garments were designed with loops that could conveniently slide onto hooks on the wall. In this way, the shirts would not only be stored neatly but would also dry more quickly - and usually without creases. The loop, therefore, came to be known as the 'locker loop'. The locker loop was then co-opted by US fashion brand GANT, which was founded in New Haven, Connecticut - the home of Ivy League university Yale. According to Gear Patrol, the quintessentially American brand added the design feature to its Oxford shirts, initially placing the loop on the collar, to make life easier for Yale students. They would, after all, be able to hang up their shirts easily, without requiring hangers. As the official fashion brand for Yale, GANT's shirts were ubiquitous on campus and equally informed popular men's style across the country. By the 1960s, though, the locker loop had taken on a new - much less practical (though no less important) - purpose. It became a way to indicate romantic intent, with women tearing the loops off the shirts of the men that they fancied. Men would equally remove the loops from their shirts to signal that they were off the market. The trend quickly gathered pace, leading one mail-order company to send customers just the loops, according to Mental Floss. Not everyone, however, was so earnest, with some people simply ripping off others' shirt loops for the fun of it. Worse still, an 'intact loop was used as a way to stoke homophobia and imply that not only was the wearer not in a relationship but they were gay'. It was described as a 'fruit loop' and 'fairy tag', amongst other offensive names. While locker loops on shirts are often ignored today, they can still work as a helpful space-saving hack by eliminating the need for wardrobe hangers. When the design feature was discussed on Reddit's 'todayilearned' subreddit, one user admitted they went down a 'rabbit hole' - suggesting they became particularly curious about the origins of the locker loop. They wrote: 'Thank you for that rabbit hole I've now fallen into!' Another user suggested an alternative purpose for the locker loop - though it's not difficult to see why it didn't catch on. The person wrote: 'I put a carabiner [clip] with my keys on mine. I want everyone to know I have keys. Because my loud big keys mean I'm important.'
