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Forbes
6 days ago
- Entertainment
- Forbes
The Luxury Jewelry That Sparkled Brightest At Paris Couture Week
Composition No. 4, Ikebana-style jewels by Boucheron, on show at Paris Couture Week. A cyclamen ... More brooch, oat stalk hair jewels, caterpillar brooch and butter fly hairpin. It was a rich Couture Week in Paris earlier this month, with houses from Boucheron to Buccellati showing their latest luxury jewels, alongside independent designers like Jessica McCormack and Dries Criel. Boucheron The summer Carte Blanche collection from Claire Choisne and her team is consistently spectacular, but this season's collection stayed with editors for days after the Place Vendôme presentation. Continuing the nature theme of the January high jewelry collection, Impermanence explored the life cycle of nature from budding to decay, through six Japanese Ikebana-style floral jewelry compositions. Each one comprised a vase, botanical elements, and an insect; 28 high jewelry pieces designed to be worn on the body in different ways. Compositions ranged from light — glass, mother-of-pearl, diamonds, and 3D-printed plant resin ingeniously sewn with diamonds to avoid adding metal weight — to dark — onyx, aventurine, titanium and Vantablack® — illustrating the increasing rarity of nature. 'It's about making the ephemeral, eternal,' Choisne told journalists. 'First we considered nature, then how it would sit on the body, rather than the other way around.' Four years and 18,000 hours in the making, Impermanence is a tribute to human ingenuity and the dizzying beauty of the natural world, that is nothing short of breathtaking. The Oat and Fieldstar necklace and earcuff from the Jewels of Nature collection by Chaumet, on show ... More at Paris Couture Week; yellow gold, white gold, white and yellow diamonds. Chaumet More than any other house on Place Vendôme, Chaumet has placed nature at the heart of its creative identity, transcribing plants and flowers into precious metals and gems with verve, for the past 245 years. In a continuation of the strikingly modern Chaumet Bamboo collection unveiled at Couture Week in February, Jewels by Nature felt more classic, with spectacular diamond pave collars, earrings and full parures full of grace and movement. A majestic full-diamond dahlia necklace of impressive volume, and a mixed metal gold and diamond earcuff stood out, and sprinkled throughout, were a series of colored gemstone rings featuring the house's beloved bee emblem, also the theme for the Bee by Chaumet high tea, available this summer at the Peninsula Hotel, in Paris. The 1963 necklace by Graff, on show at Paris Couture Week; white baguette, pavé and oval, diamonds, ... More emeralds and white gold. Graff Alongside more timeless pieces — like a triple-row pear-cut diamond choker that appeared to be lined with baguette emeralds — Graff showed a hero suite, celebrating the freedom and rebellion of Swinging London in the 1960s. The 1963 set, named for the year the house was founded, comprised a necklace, earrings and bracelet made up of a swirl of elongated hoops, traced in baguette, pavé and oval diamonds accented with round emeralds. A bangle and ring by Dries Criel on show at Paris Couture Week, gold, diamonds and tourmaline. FEATURED | Frase ByForbes™ Unscramble The Anagram To Reveal The Phrase Pinpoint By Linkedin Guess The Category Queens By Linkedin Crown Each Region Crossclimb By Linkedin Unlock A Trivia Ladder Dries Criel The Antwerp-based designer is going from strength to strength, and in Paris, he showed his first high jewelry collection, marking a move into more preciousness, more colored stones — and more audacity. A natural palette ranging from woodland green to sunny yellow, in gemstones including tourmalines, diamonds, and jade, accentuates his signature forms in the Double Lotus bangle, while the endlessly elegant sphinx earrings showing paraiba tourmaline. Bold, gender-neutral jewelry, which draws on the precision of the dancer and the art of Ancient Egypt. The Rosina necklace by Pasquale Bruni, white diamonds, rubies and white gold, on show at Paris ... More Couture Week. Pasquale Bruni The Italian house chose the Musée des Arts Décoratifs for a decadent and intimate presentation of the Rosina collection, inspired by Pasquale Bruni creative director Eugenia Bruni's family history. Against the backdrop of a former family home overtaken by nature, the inspiration of a powerful matriarch — Aunt Rosina —becomes a capsule collection of diamond pave rose petals, each piece complete with a ruby heart on the inside, representing a beating heart. The Maple Colours earrings by De Beers, on show at Paris Couture Week; white, yellow and rose gold, ... More white diamonds and fancy orange diamonds. De Beers De Beers played tribute to the trees of the countries in which it mines — Botswana, Namibia, South Africa and Canada — in a showcase held near the upcoming Rue de la Paix flagship, which is set to open towards the end of 2025. Diamond pavé Baobab roots encircle the neck, while the textured bark of the Namibian camelthorn tree is a reminder of resilience in bracelet form. Elsewhere, mixed metal maple leaves adorn the ear lobes, all with the house's signature mix of polished and rough stones. The Blue Chain Cascade necklace and earring from the Collezione 1967 collection by Pomellato, on ... More show at Paris Couture Week. Pomellato The Milan-based house revisited its archives with Collezione 1967, a joyful romp through three decades of jewelry history. From chain-making in the 1970s, which saw the development of the house's characteristic chunky links, through the sculptural jewels of the 1980s and bold color in the 1990s, the collection was a powerful distillation of the essence of the exuberant Milan-based jeweler, with Pomellato's signature use of colored stones providing energetic accents throughout. The Marea Rosa necklace by Damaini, inspired by pink sand and the ocean on the coast of Sardinia, ... More Paraiba tourmaline, marquise diamond and colored stones, on show at Paris Couture Week. Damiani Editors who stepped into Damiani's Place Vendôme showroom embarked on a Grand Tour of Italy for the high jewelry collection, with chapters based on the country's spectacular coastline, landscapes and cities. Muzo emeralds, a star sapphire and molto diamonds told a story of the sun-drenched splendour. Topped with an ethereal Paraiba tourmaline on a mesh of marquise-cut diamonds and morganites to convey the pink sands of Sardinia, the Marea Rosa necklace was a case in point. A model wears gold and diamond jewels by Repossi, from the Blast collecction. Repossi As the city sweltered under a heatwave, Repossi brought editors down to the cool of the lush outdoor auditorium at the Musée du Quai Branly anthropological museum, for a tour of the collections that inspire Gaia Repossi's jewelry. The most recent elements of the Blast collection draw on the curves and circles of tribal necklaces, with volume and presence recalling the designs of her father Alberto, who led the house in the 1980s and 1990s. Gold wire forms are scattered with diamonds in a sculptural play of light, that draws on elements of traditional Masai, Miao and Indonesian jewelry. The Golden Harvest Butterfly Brooch by Anna Hu, diamonds, fire opal, titanium, by Anna Hu, on show ... More at Paris Couture Week Anna Hu Anna Hu showed at home this season, in her private apartments overlooking Place Vendôme. The designer payed tribute to her other home, Monaco; with La Rose Gracieuse, a titanium, diamond and spinel brooch that recalls Princess Grace's charitable work for children through the Bal de la Rose. Elsewhere, electroplated titanium orchids bloomed next to a series of her trademark butterflies — 'hu' means butterfly in Mandarin — in a blend of Eastern inspiration and Parisian high jewelry expertise. Diamond and gemstone necklaces from the Tempest collection by Jessica McCormack, with cushion-cut ... More colored gemstone pendants, on show at Paris Couture Week. Jessica McCormack Fresh from her store opening on Madison Avenue in New York, Jessica McCormack was showing her easy-wear high jewelry in Paris. Sparkling in the summer sunlight in an airy suite at the Ritz, were ropes of round diamonds, rubies and sapphires with interchangeable button-back colored cushion-cut stones, and matching earrings topped with cornflower blue sapphires, from the upcoming Tempest collection. The spherical black bejewelled evening bag by Buccellati Buccellati The Buccellati store on rue du Faubourg St Honoré was abuzz on Tuesday morning, as the house unveiled new bejewelled evening bags. A revival of a historic line — precious bags from the 1920s and 2000s were also on show — the three models looked to Buccellati's historic craftmanship. A soft velvet pouch was finished with a satin gold frame and diamond filigree, a more structured green velvet bag was quilted and embroidered with gold and diamonds, while the most striking model, a sphere of black velvet was finished with white gold and diamond lace. Dilraba Dilmurat wears high jewelry from the Les Pétals collection by Mikimoto. Mikimoto As feminine and graceful as ever, the Japanese heritage pearl house channelled graceful flora in a high jewelry collection that sparkled in the Parisian sunshine. Colored stones and pearls evoked blooms at different times of the day, with Mikimoto's signature conch pearls appearing on statement earrings and necklaces. In parallel, the house — which also has a strong presence in the Asian beauty market — is about to launch a fragrance collaboration with Lalique, further strengthening its links with Paris. The Atlantis bracelet from the Rare Perfection collection, by David Morris, on show at Paris Couture ... More Week. David Morris The rare Perfection collection spotlit the beauty of colored stones, with unusual cherry red Mozambiquan rubies, a deep purple spinel ring and diamonds from the Argyll mine. Geometric motifs bit through hearts and gentle floral shapes, in a nod to Art Deco that made for a powerful 12-piece collection.
South China Morning Post
07-07-2025
- Entertainment
- South China Morning Post
Style Edit: Boghossian's Lirya collection brings aquamarines, rubellites, green tourmalines, moonstones and other gems together in vivid high jewellery pieces
In the world of haute joaillerie, few maisons dare to explore the beauty of contrast with the confidence and grace that Boghossian does. With the Lirya collection, the Geneva-based house unveils what it describes as a 'secret garden of enchantment' – a realm where opposing forces come together to create sublime harmony. In this case, the 'forces' are pairs of vibrant gemstones, masterfully delivered as pieces that are timeless and quietly transformative. Boghossian Lirya high jewellery necklace with matching earrings. Photo: Handout At the heart of Lirya is the idea of unity through contrast. The collection brings together aquamarines, rubellites, green tourmalines, moonstones and other gems in compositions that feel effortlessly fluid and elevated. Rather than one gem overpowering another, these stones form balanced narratives that celebrate individuality while highlighting a deeper interconnectedness. The result is a luminous choreography of colour and form. Advertisement Boghossian Lirya high jewellery set. Photo: Handout Lirya speaks not only to visual beauty but to emotional resonance. The pieces are crafted with intention: shapes unfold gracefully, colours blend in unexpected ways. They reflect a balance between strength and softness, stillness and movement. In this way, Lirya becomes more than jewellery: it becomes a statement of continuity and transformation. Boghossian Lirya high jewellery pendant necklace. Photo: Handout From tanzanites paired with moonstones, to morganites set alongside verdant tourmalines, each piece offers its own distinct presence within Lirya's enchanted garden. Since its debut at The European Fine Art Foundation (TEFAF) in New York, the collection has captivated visitors to Boghossian's Geneva and London boutiques, elevating the brand's already stellar reputation for visionary design. Boghossian Lirya high jewellery earrings. Photo: Handout What makes Lirya distinctive is its ability to maintain the integrity of each gemstone's brilliance while achieving a remarkable overall harmony. The name itself whispers of lyrical grace, echoing the maison's belief in the convergence of strength and delicacy, innovation and heritage.
New York Times
05-07-2025
- Entertainment
- New York Times
Baubles, Bangles and Books
Van Cleef & Arpels is no stranger to the literary world. For the past 25 years, the jeweler has plumbed the classics for the themes of its high jewelry collections, highlighting fairy tales, love stories and adventure yarns. Late last year, for example, it unveiled the first portion in a 300-jewel collection inspired by Robert Louis Stevenson's 'Treasure Island.' Now the jeweler's L'École School of Jewelry Arts has become a partner in a new series called Dédale. Its first three books were issued in mid-May. 'For us, books are an extremely important vector of transmission,' said Lise Macdonald, president of L'École. 'Today, we live in a digital world — we can't live without it,' she said. 'But connecting with knowledge through books and the printed word is central to our strategy for developing content and bringing the culture of jewelry to a wider audience.' The Dédale series was created with Franco Maria Ricci, or FMR, the Italian niche publisher known for producing lavishly illustrated books and magazines about art and literature. It was named for Daedalus, the mythological Greek architect said to have invented the Labyrinth, and inspired by the Library of Babel, a collection of 30 classics that the publishing house's founder and the Argentine author Jorge Luis Borges republished as collector's editions from 1975 to 1985. Dédale's editorial line, Ms. Macdonald said, is to explore the concept of treasure, both natural and human-made, as well as savoir-faire, jewels, collecting and related themes. The inaugural publications were 'Treasure Island,' featuring original artwork by the comic book artist Pierre-François Beauchard, known professionally as David B.; 'The Invisible Collection,' by Stefan Zweig, with reproductions of works by the 19th-century French artist Honoré Daumier; and 'Laura, a Journey Into the Crystal,' by George Sand, illustrated with paintings by Wenzel Hablik, an early 20th-century German Expressionist. Each book was issued in English, French and Italian editions and in two formats: a paperback edition, sold through FMR's website and distributors with prices from 18 to 28 euros ($21 to $32), and a hardcover collector's edition in a slipcase, sold exclusively at L'Escarboucle, L'École's bookstore in Paris, with prices from €85 to €110. A new title is expected to join the collection each spring and fall; there also are plans to issue books in more languages and to search out non-Western volumes. And while the series' initial focus has been on classics and rare texts, Ms. Macdonald said that the door remains open to unusual or contemporary works that speak to 'beauty, transmission and the labyrinth of the senses.' 'It's all about creating bridges between the arts, humanities and science and opening the world to other perspectives through jewels,' she said. 'The possibilities are endless.'
New York Times
04-07-2025
- Business
- New York Times
Key Words for High Jewelry These Days? Intriguing and Intricate.
Despite sky-high gold prices, turbulence in the diamond market and global political and economic uncertainty, the high jewelry presentations in Paris next week are the latest sign of a strong — one might even say glittering — jewelry market. 'There is an appetite for jewelry that stands out and focuses on rare stones as well as intriguing designs,' Donatella Zappieri, a jewelry business consultant specializing in strategic management and a lecturer at Bocconi University in Milan, said in an email. 'That also has laid the foundations for a new era in one-of-a-kind jewelry.' So even as luxury giants such as LMVH and Kering reported declines in first quarter global sales, there has been little sign of a drop-off in the $32.2 billion in jewelry sales that Bain and Company reported for 2024. The attraction has not solely been for classic gems such as diamonds and emeralds, or precious metals like platinum. The presentations in Paris — and those shown recently in other alluring locations — have included lesser-known stones, unusual materials and inventive techniques. And certain designers' creations flirted with art world notions of scale and purpose. 'From the standpoint of history, what's striking is how intricate jewelry constructions have become,' said Mathieu Rousset-Perrier, the curator of the Middle Ages, Renaissance and Jewelry collections at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. 'It's much like what we have been seeing on the runway at couture,' he added. 'The question is: Where is the saturation point?' Want all of The Times? Subscribe.
Forbes
01-07-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Pomellato Unveils A Sparkling Retrospective High Jewelry Collection
The 'Blue Chain Cascade' necklace and earrings from 'Collezione 1967,' Pomellato's 2025 high jewelry ... More collection Pomellato unveiled 'Collezione 1967,' last week in Paris. The new high jewelry collection, consisting of 75 pieces, is named after the year the Italian luxury jewelry brand was founded. The new collection is designed as a retrospective of Pomellato's creative culture during the latter part of the 20th century, tracing three decades that forged its identity from its innovative chain artistry of the 1970s to the sculptural designs of the 1980s and the chromatic creations and exuberant forms of the 1990s. Vincenzo Castaldo, Pomellato's creative director said the new collection 'marks a powerful return to our roots distilling the essence of three decades.' Pomelatto's 'Chain Revolution' of the 1970s Pino Rabolini, Pomellato's founder, elevated the chain from a secondary functional aspect of jewels to a main character by turning it into an artistic statement. Chains are now a significant part Pomellato's identity in function and style. The new collection contains 20 examples of chain-making expertise, many of which are paved with diamonds and paired with statement gems. They are categorized as: The 'Blue Chain Cascade' necklace from Pomellato's 2025 high jewelry collection 'Blue Chain Cascade,' which features a 22.23-carat Ceylon sapphire surrounded by a dual-chain construction necklace paved with diamonds in a design that evokes a frozen waterfall. 'Aquamarine Dream' necklace from the Pomellato 'Collezione 1967' high jewelry collection 'Aquamarine Dream' reimagines the signature forçat chain in a design that showcases two central aquamarines: a 37.98-carat rounded-rectangular cabochon centerpiece and a 15.95-carat faceted drop pendant. Both gems are set in a surround of diamond pavé. FEATURED | Frase ByForbes™ Unscramble The Anagram To Reveal The Phrase Pinpoint By Linkedin Guess The Category Queens By Linkedin Crown Each Region Crossclimb By Linkedin Unlock A Trivia Ladder 'Yellow Diamond Moon' necklace from the Pomellato 'Collezione 1967' high jewelry collection 'Yellow Diamond Moon' is a white gold and white diamond suite that the brand says captures moonlight in motion. The necklace centers around a radiant 12-carat fancy light yellow diamond, set on a diamond-pavé chain. The design melds Pomellato's signature gourmette chain with round links chain. The matching ring is designed with a white gold gourmette-chain shank and features a 7.05-carat yellow diamond solitaire surrounded by white diamonds. The Art of Chains bracelet from the Pomellato 'Collezione 1967' high jewelry collection 'The Art of Chains' is a signature creation that features Pomellato's chain layering technique. Four distinct chains, in rose and white gold, two adorned with pavé-set white diamonds, interweave. Pomellato Precious Spring Ring from the 'Collezione 1967' high jewelry collection The 'Precious Spring Ring' is a transformative jewel that can transition from belt to bracelet to pendant. It is crafted in rose gold with pavé-set white diamonds and accented with baguette-cut diamonds. This chain design draws inspiration from Pomellato's archives. Pomellato Breaks the Rules of Design During the 1980s During this decade, Pomellato used an architectural approach to jewelry design, pushing the boundaries of creativity through skilled techniques and bold sensual forms, where volume and shape were paramount. There are 18 pieces that represent the decade. They are categorized as follows: 'Asimmetrico Tanzanite' necklace from Pomellato's 'Collezione 1967 high jewelry collection 'Asimmetrico Tanzanite' is a chain centered around an irregular-shaped 55.96-carat tanzanite with a custom-made bezel setting in rose gold. The necklace's asymmetrical construction features articulated gold plates pavé-set with white diamonds that flow like 'fabric on the skin,' the luxury brand said. Each of the 78 modules are individually crafted and assembled, requiring 700 hours of craftsmanship. A matching ring with a 37.73-carat tanzanite with violet-blue depths, completes this suite. 'Zigzag Supreme' necklace from Pomellato's 'Collezione 1967' high jewelry collection 'Zigzag Supreme' is a sculptural white gold zigzag chain, reinterpreting a design from Pomellato's archives, illuminated by diamond-set touches. It provides the stage for a 23.78-carat pear cut tanzanite and a 19.91-carat hexagonal tanzanite pendant. 'Rivière Zigzag' necklace from the Pomellato 'Collezione 1967' high jewelry collection The 'Rivière Zigzag' necklace reinterprets the classic 'rivière' necklace, with an asymmetry design. The rose gold zigzag chain, pavé-set with diamonds cradles either an array of green tourmalines or rubellites. The green suite features 47.31 carats of tourmalines, accompanied by a ring with 14.80 carats of drop gems and earrings with pear, oval, square gem cuts totaling 27.94 carats. The red variant displays 50.85 carats of rubellites in the necklace and a ring with three drop rubellites of 16.10 carats. Pomellato's Chromatic Vision of the 1990s During this period Pomellato focused on 'radical' gemstone color combinations and bold volumes, which the brand described as 'a defining moment when the Maison discovered its true creative voice.' This decade is represented by 37 pieces that showcase Pomellato's gemstone artistry and chromatic approach. 'Lagoon Bavarole' necklace from the Pomellato 'Collezione 1967' high jewelry collection The 'Lagoon Bavarole' necklace is crafted with 47 irregular-cut tourmalines to create a cascade of green complemented by a rope chain set with white diamond pavé. The necklace is part of a suite that includes a matching ring that echoes this organic flow create a harmony of green tones. Pomellato 'Marvelous Griffe' multi-colored earrings from the 'Collezione 1967' high jewelry ... More collection 'Marvelous Griffe' is a series of ten pairs of earrings in rose gold and different hues all featuring oval cabochon gems. They include aquamarines, watermelon tourmalines, tanzanites, green tourmalines, indigolites, purplish-red and brownish-red rubellites, peridots, mandarin garnets and heliodors. They are all enhanced with pavé-set gems. The Pomellato 'Iconica Extreme' bracelet from the 'Collezione 1967' high jewelry collection 'Iconica Extreme' is a rose gold chain suite with the necklace and bracelet featuring links that grow larger toward the center. Each is set with baguette-cut diamonds and illuminated by brilliant-cut diamonds creating precise spots of light across the design. A squared ring with rounded angles and architectural statement studs completes the core parure. They all feature the same interplay of baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds in a subtle gradation effect. The parure is complemented by a ring in which rose gold cradles a 12.27-carat cushion-cut emerald, enhanced by an exquisite emerald and diamond pavé setting. Pomellato 'Precious Snap Hook' necklace from the 'Collezione 1967' high jewelry collection 'Precious Snap Hook' is a rose gold lariat necklace that embodies 1990s feminine empowerment and showcases Pomellato's diamond-setting technique. The design features links of varying sizes, with select sections pavé-set with diamonds complemented by two different snap hooks offering different styling options. The long, fluid chain adapts to multiple wearing styles, such as double row, lariat, or sautoir, embodying Pomellato's commitment to versatility and contemporary elegance.
