6 days ago
Hydrating Superheroes That Aren't Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid has been everywhere — serums, cleansers, moisturisers, sunscreens, and even hair care. For decades, this hydrating heavyweight has been lauded for its plumping and moisture-binding powers. And while its efficacy has been questioned a couple of times, for the most part, the humectant has largely earned its reputation. But, is it the be-all and end-all ingredient, the ultimate hydrating superhero? Not quite.
'When it comes to radiant skin, hydration is not just about pulling in water,' says Dr Swetha Dilip, aesthetic physician, Cosmesurge Hospital, Dubai. 'It's about knowing how to hold it, protect it, and support your skin's natural defences.' And, for the last decade, hyaluronic acid has been the poster child for this facet. 'However, while it is effectively able to bind up to 1,000 times its weight in water, it is not quite the panacea it's made out to be.'
According to her, the wrong climate or formulation can leave the skin even drier than before. And considering that hydration doesn't follow a one-size-fits-all formula, a number of ingredients rival, and sometimes surpass, hyaluronic acid in performance. From reinforcing the skin barrier to preventing transepidermal moisture loss, experts dive into some of the best hydrating ingredients that outperform hyaluronic acid.
Urea
Great for dehydration, especially around cracked and dry elbows and feet, urea is a natural component of the skin's 'natural moisturising factor' (NMF). 'It hydrates, smooths, and mildly exfoliates, so is quite helpful if you suffer from eczema, psoriasis, and generalised flakiness,' says Dr Dilip.
While commercially available concentrations come between 5-40 per cent, Dr Batul Patel, medical director of The Bombay Skin Clinic based in Mumbai, says that in low concentrations of 2-10 per cent, urea acts like a humectant, locking in moisture and softening the skin. Eucerin UreaRepair Plus 5% Urea Cream AED122
Glycerin
Probably one of the oldest hydrators known to mankind, this tried and tested ingredient continues to hone its popularity. Composed of small molecules, it allows for deep hydration and is known to enhance barrier function and draw moisture into the deeper layers of the skin. 'Glycerin-based products are often best for individuals who are rosacea-prone or easily sensitive or reactive to harsh chemicals,' explains Dr Dilip. Avène Tolérance Control Soothing Skin Recovery Balm AED132
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5)
A powerful humectant and anti-inflammatory agent, panthenol converts to vitamin B5 in the skin. 'It is deeply hydrating, promotes healing, and boosts skin barrier function,' explains Dr Patel. 'In fact, it is more soothing than hyaluronic acid, making it great for post-procedure healing or irritated skin.'
