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Travel + Leisure
a day ago
- Climate
- Travel + Leisure
Sun, Sand, Repeat: Plan Your Caribbean Getaway
The Caribbean has been a longtime favorite destination among travelers. And what's not to love? These dreamy islands are known for their white-sand beaches, crystal-clear waters, and near-perfect weather. If you prefer to simply fly and flop, it doesn't get much better than this. But there are thousands of islands and cays in the Caribbean, with something for every kind of traveler, whether you're seeking a family-focused getaway or an adventurous excursion with opportunities to snorkel in coral reefs and hike cool mountain trails. From singling out the best beach in the region to rounding up the best hotels, you'll find everything you need to plan your next Caribbean vacation below.
Times
3 days ago
- General
- Times
Which is the best Cape Verde island? Here's how to choose
Cape Verde's landscape is spectacularly diverse: soaring volcanic peaks and magical cloud villages, kaleidoscopic desert mirages, biodiverse turquoise seas . . . when it comes to natural wonders, the archipelago's islands have it all. And if none of that were enough to lure visitors, then the steady year-round sunshine hours in return for a six-hour flight from the UK — minus the jet lag — might just do the trick. There are four international airports (Santiago, Sao Vicente, Sal and Boa Vista) and local airports on all the populated islands except Brava and Santo Antao, which can be reached by water. Ferries operate between most of the islands but the seas are often rough and timetables unreliable, so internal flights are a faster, more reliable and cost-effective way to get around, with the added advantage of epic bird's-eye views. To explore the islands themselves, you can hire a rental car, but the roads are treacherous, so taxis or aluguers (shared taxis and minibuses) are advisable for all but the most confident drivers. For luxury, all-inclusive and family-friendly resorts, Sal and Boa Vista are the most developed islands — but there are less-touristed alternatives that many miss. All but one of the archipelago's ten islands are inhabited (Santa Luzia is the only uninhabited island). Here's how to choose between them. This article contains affiliate links, which may earn us revenue For some travellers, Sal is simply a pitstop between islands — most international and plenty of local flight traffic flows through Amilcar Cabral international airport — but for the many sun-loving devotees of Cape Verde's most popular destination it is the simple things that keep them here: the consistently warm, dry climate and sublime golden beaches. Sal has several sprawling resorts from international hotel brands like Hilton and Meliá, but you can also find boutique options. Sal's windswept desert landscape can feel a little sparse, but there is plenty to keep visitors occupied: soak up nourishing minerals at Pedra de Lume's surreal salt lakes, see baby lemon sharks at Shark Bay, or visit the Terra Boa mirage where an optical illusion conjures an ocean in the heart of the desert. Originally built as a private farmhouse by its Belgian owners, Hotel Morabeza is one of the most popular independent resorts on the island, and for good reason. Sail around Sal on a full-day catamaran cruise with Tui, with all your drinks and snacks included. • Best hotels in Sal The easternmost island in the archipelago and the closest to Africa, Boa Vista is known for epic white sands and historic shipwrecks — the best-known is the skeleton of the Cabo Santa Maria on Atalanta beach — that can be reached on foot in about two hours from Sal Rei or on one of the island's many 4×4 tours. Along with Santiago, Boa Vista has the joint second-busiest international airport in Cape Verde and there are plenty of budget flights available. Boa Vista also has the third largest population of loggerhead turtles in the world, migrating humpback whales, tropical corals and considerable biodiversity, so there is plenty to learn about the Atlantic's aquatic occupants here. Although Boa Vista is around three times the size of Sal and popular with holidaymakers, its character is more laid-back. Still, there's plenty of fun to be found in Sal Rei, the island's biggest town, which is home to a couple of wonderful family-owned museums — Sodade House of Memory, an elegant local restaurant exhibiting local artefacts, and the Museu dos Naufragos, which is constructed entirely from local and recycled materials and charts the history and culture of Cape Verde. For night owls, there is an abundance of bars, beach parties and local music. Don't miss local institution the Morabeza Beach Club, which is where beach bums gather for cocktails and fresh lobster amid a languid Caribbean vibe. For all-out relaxation, stay at VOI Praia De Chaves Resort, which has a private beach, two pools (one for children) and plenty of water sports. Get away from the landlubbers and see the island from a different perspective on Viator's Boa Vista Adults-Only Cruise, on which you'll explore secluded beaches, snorkel and watch out for whales on a beautiful wooden sailing boat. • Is it safe to visit Cape Verde? Everything to know after holiday illness claims In sharp contrast to much of the parched desert terrain of other Cape Verdean islands, northwesternmost Santo Antao is bursting with life. Wild figs and dragon trees, coconut palms and alpine firs all thrive in this mountainous volcanic terrain. Dizzying, vertiginous roads lead to fairytale valleys scored with cassava terraces and banana trees. Santo Antao is the second-largest island in Cape Verde, so to get around you will need wheels. You can drive yourself with a rental from Porto Novo, but unless you are extremely confident a local driver is a better option. And there's plenty to explore. Visit Fontainhas, a colourful cluster of homes perched on hazy cliffs with a view that has been acclaimed as one of the most beautiful in the world. Locals use donkeys to reach the village but tourists take taxis or rental cars. Sinuous paths, gorgeous mountain vistas and lush ribeiras make it a paradise for hikers. Back down to earth, volcanic black beaches glitter in the turquoise surf, although they are not all ideal for swimming. Generally the seas here are pretty lively but the lava tubes and manta rays beneath the waves will keep keen divers happy. Accommodation ranges from traditional bungalows to eco-lodges, guest houses and some boutique hotels. Stay at Aldea Panoramica, a secret sanctuary in Paul, the greenest, most beautiful valley on the island. Exodus Adventure Travels' varied seven-night private tour of Cape Verde's northern islands takes in Santo Antao as well as Mindelo and Sao Vicente. • Discover our full guide to Cape Verde Sao Vicente is the cultural heart of the Cape Verdean islands. One of the smaller islands, measuring around 88 square miles, what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in spirit. In the capital, Mindelo, you can wander the streets and follow the music: small jazz clubs spill out onto the squares, carnival relics rest in colourful courtyards and the streets fizz with life. There is a proud cultural and creative heritage in Mindelo, marked by various museums and festivals like the Cape Verde Carnival, held on Shrove Tuesday, and the Museu Cesaria Evora, dedicated to the singer known as the 'Barefoot Diva'. Vivid murals of Cesaria, Cape Verde's most famous musical export, also grace the bright colonial architecture. Much of the island is made up of desert-like terrain but there are some excellent hikes to be found and it's well worth taking the six-hour walking route from Mindelo to the top of Monte Verde to drink tea distilled from cloud water at the Cabana de Cha tea house. There are few luxury hotels in Mindelo but you'll find good boutique offerings, hiker's lodges and simple guesthouses. In the heart of Mindelo, just minutes from Laginha beach, is Casa da Djedja, a rustic guesthouse with an elegant courtyard that's perfect for alfresco breakfasts. Sao Vicente is a popular cruise destination. P&O's Southampton To Freemantle sailing visits Lisbon, Madeira and Sao Vicente, among other vibrant ports, on its 39-night voyage to Australia. • Best things to do in Cape Verde• Best hotels in Cape Verde The clue is in the title: fogo means fire in Portuguese. With the sole remaining active volcano in Cape Verde, Fogo's dramatic, lava-scarred landscape comes alive with the cool eucalyptus woods and coffee fields that break through the scorched terrain. The unusually mineral-rich volcanic terroir supports small but internationally respected coffee and wine industries. Both the wine and coffee have unique taste profiles and a multitude of tours are available to help visitors explore the local artisanal produce. The award-winning vineyard at Cha das Caldeiras is the best known and has its own guesthouse. Wander the lunar craters and caves of Cha das Caldeiras National Park and taste the local wines or hike to the summit of the Pico do Fogo volcano. Make Sao Filipe your final stop to see the charming sky-blue church and souvenir shop for colourful ceramics and fabrics in the local markets. Stock up on local wine and coffee beans or, for the stronger constitution, grogue — the local sugar-cane liquor. Stay at Casa Marisa, where the eco-lodges are built on lava fields — in places the floors are still warm to the touch. Sample the high life on a Fogo wine and cheese tasting tour with Get Your Guide — it's not every day you get to taste wine with volcano views. Brava, the smallest of Cape Verde's inhabited islands, is tucked away behind Fogo in the western tail of the island chain. Known as Ilha das Flores — Island of Flowers — the island's high altitude feeds abundant lush valleys and verdant peaks packed with maize and mangos, sugar cane and papaya trees. Brava is only accessible by ferry from Fogo, which takes around an hour — but the journey makes the whole experience feel that much more special when you reach Brava's mysterious, often cloud-shrouded shores. Explore the bay around Faja de Agua, renowned for its wild natural swimming pools carved into the ancient black rock, and seek out handicrafts in the main town of Nova Sintra, named for its Portuguese cousin. Small guesthouses, villas and B&Bs are the main accommodation on the island. You'll find charming private bungalows on the slopes of the caldera above Sao Filipe at La Fora Ecolodge. Immerse yourself in local culture by visiting towns and buying local fish and goat's cheese on this Brava Island: the Routes of Morna day trip (morna being Cape Verde's traditional music).Fittingly for the largest island of the Cape Verde archipelago, Santiago has elements of all the other islands — dramatic green valleys and the imposing volcanic Serra Malagueta mountain range, gold and black sand beaches, vibrant orchards and vegetable gardens rich with cassava and yam, and lemon, fig and coconut trees. It's also home to what is considered the oldest European settlement in West Africa, former capital Cidade Velha, now a Unesco world heritage site. Spend the morning exploring the old fort and Pillory Square then head to the new capital Praia, a half-hour drive to the east. As the most populous city in Cape Verde, Praia also offers plenty of variety and a spectrum of places to stay, from sleek upmarket resorts to humble boutique hotels. Meander round the buzzing African food market, lose an afternoon in the cultural museums, watch the locals practise capoeira or just take in some local music and cocktails as the sun goes down over the bay. A peaceful eco-boutique resort on the gorgeous shores of Ponta de Atum, the King Fisher Village has an infinity pool, stylish rooms and homegrown food. Visit Santiago on Saga's 18-night Canaries and Culture of Cape Verde cruise, with the option to explore the island on a 4×4 excursion. Just a 20-minute flight from neighbouring Santiago, Maio is one of the least developed islands in the chain. There is very little in the way of traffic here, human or otherwise, and the glorious white-sand beaches rival those of the Maldives. Accommodation is simple but welcoming, while palm trees and mature acacia forests provide relief from the arid desert heat. While away the hours in the pretty main town, Porto Ingles, and make sure to sample local goat's cheese and delicious caldeirada de peixe (fish stew). Make time for a visit to the tranquil north coast to spot seabirds and, if you're lucky, a white-tailed eagle. Beachfront Casa Evora, located a few minutes' drive from the airport, is a simple but convenient base from which to explore the island. See the highlights of Maio and end the day with a dip at Bitchirotcha beach on this full-day guided tour via Get Your overlooked in favour of the more populous islands, unspoilt Sao Nicolau is a photographer's dream. It's one of the smaller islands —less than 15 miles at its widest point — so you can see a lot in a day. The Carbeirinho cliffs to the west are one of Cape Verde's most beautiful natural wonders. Sculpted over centuries by the sea, the curved strata of limestone and the caves beneath are something special. Less than half an hour's drive south, you can submerge yourself in the fabled healing sands of Tarrafal beach, or in the wilder north soak in the natural basalt rock pools of Juncalinho. Monte Gordo National Park is the heart of the island. Its misty peaks are home to what is known as the dragon blood tree for the red sap it secretes, used by locals to treat pain. The summit views from Monte Gordo are staggering. A variety of trails will take you to the top — the highest point of the island — and you should allow three to six hours for this, depending on your level of fitness and skill. On a clear day you see the whole of Sao Nicolau, Vicente and Santo Antao. The island's main town, Ribeira Brava, is set in a deep green valley, a location that once helped to conceal its citizens from pirate attacks. Potter around the jumbled, cobbled streets, marvel at the candy-coloured colonial architecture, and stop by the impressive cathedral and town square to people watch. You can reach Sao Nicolau by ferry but the seas are often rough and internal flights between the islands are generally more reliable — plus the descent into the dramatic, volcanic interior is worth the ticket. Accommodation is limited to small guesthouses and home stays. A bright, Insta-friendly guesthouse, the Pensao Bela Sombra has both the island's capital and spectacular mountain terrain on its doorstep. See the best bits of Sao Nicolau on a 4×4 private tour that, along with the sights, includes a stop at the beach for a swim. • Best places for affordable winter sun• Best destinations that are hot all year round
CNA
3 days ago
- General
- CNA
Singapore's Southern Islands are home to plants and animals not found anywhere else in the country, survey finds
A biodiversity survey has found that Singapore's Southern Islands are home to many plant and animal species not found anywhere else in the country. The survey – the first comprehensive study of its kind conducted on the islands – recorded more than 6,500 types of flora and fauna, including 44 new native species.
Yahoo
4 days ago
- General
- Yahoo
How to plan the ultimate island-hopping adventure in Croatia
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). The fascination of islands is that they appear to be distinct, self-contained worlds. If that's true, then Croatia is practically its own solar system. From the Kvarner Gulf at the head of the Adriatic to the Dalmatia region between Zadar and Dubrovnik, more than 1,185 islands spray down the coast like a meteorite shower. Whatever you're looking for, you'll find it here — from buzzy resorts for a party crowd on Hvar to towns like Korčula or Rab, their streets an insouciant jumble of gothic and Renaissance beauty. In between are endless pine-scrubbed specks with no firm grip on the 21st century, washed by the cleanest waters in the Mediterranean. Lazy beach days may be the draw, but this is a country rich in history. Grasp that Croatia is all about cultural tectonics and you're halfway to making sense of a destination that's exotic and familiar by turns. It's a nation created where the plates of European history — Ancient Greek and Roman, Austro-Hungarian in the north Adriatic, and the Venetian Republic in the south — have met and occasionally collided over millennia. All have left their mark, whether in architecture, cuisine or culture. Likewise, the people of Croatia mix Central European business head, Mediterranean heart and Balkan soul. Holidaymakers have been fascinated by this destination for more than a century. George Bernard Shaw said of Croatia's islands: 'On the last day of Creation, God wished to crown his work, so he created the Kornati islands out of tears, sand and breath.' Edward VIII, on a romantic cruise with Wallis Simpson in 1936, entertained daydreams of escaping state duties by buying and renovating a little mansion by the sea. After the implosion of Yugoslavia in 1991, Croatia saw a return to form; the dreary accommodation that had sprung up during the Communist era beginning to make way for luxurious small stays. With so many islands to choose from, it's tempting to hop furiously between them — especially as, in season, ferry connections are good and cheap if you travel on foot. However, each destination deserves a few days, at least. Slow down to the islands' pace and you'll find that individual identities slowly reveal themselves. The trick is to select islands whose ferry routes daisy-chain into coherent paths — as they do in these two itineraries. See our highlights as gateways for your own discoveries. The islands off the Dalmatian coast showcase Croatia at its most vivid. They're sunbaked and wild, perfumed by pine trees and herbs, silvered by olive trees and contoured by the grapevines introduced by the ancients. Blasted by the light and heat of centuries, it's a land of living poetry, packed with history, which has elevated easy living into an art form. This route visits Croatia's most celebrated islands — plus one curveball — and is bookended by its most beautiful cities: Split and Dubrovnik, both of which have international airports. After sleepy Šolta comes an archipelagic beauty parade: Vis, bohemian and increasingly upmarket; Hvar, which combines Renaissance looks with a modest club scene; then Korčula Town, one of the finest medieval citadels in the Mediterranean. A car limits your options for this itinerary, so pack light and travel on foot. 1. ŠoltaOne hour from Split harbour by ferry, Šolta is a pipsqueak of an island. It was called Solenta, meaning 'Sun Island', by the Romans. It's now a backwater of olives and pine scrub, whose rich soils produce a red wine so dark it's almost black. Hire a scooter or mountain bike at the port — the island is just 12 miles long — to taste dobričić wine and olive oil at Kaštelanac Agroturizam, discover idyllic harbours Maslinica and Stomorska, and follow tracks to rocky coves on the south coast. Top picks include Stračinska, Senjska, Jorja and Tatinja. 2. Komiža, VisToday Vis's chief claims to fame are Stiniva beach and Mamma Mia! — the 2018 sequel was filmed here — but millennia ago, Caesar described Croatia's furthest inhabited island as 'the most distinguished in the area'. Vis Town's Issa Archaeology Museum has various Roman finds, while the Venetian houses in adjoining Kut village are also worth exploring. Next, cross Vis to set-jet in Komiža, the island's prettiest harbour: ABBA renditions optional. From here, Alternatura runs sailing trips in falkuša (traditional fishing boats). 3. Hvar Town, HvarA village-sized Saint-Tropez meets Ibiza, Hvar lures superyachts and young holidaymakers with its beach clubs; the best is Carpe Diem — it's on Stipanska, one of the Pakleni islands, easily reached from Hvar. Among all the glitz is Hvar Town's Renaissance core, constructed by the Venetian Republic as a naval base and trade route staging post. Ascend to a 16th-century castle for harbour views, admire art in the Franciscan Monastery and drink in chichi cocktail bars. 4. Korčula Town, KorčulaApproaching this UNESCO-listed town by sea is bewitching. It's a medieval citadel of walls and towers like chess pieces, crammed onto a thumbnail of land and ambered in the faded glory of 400 years of Venetian rule. The gothic-Renaissance cathedral is its highlight, but it's better understood as a tiny city. You'll circle it in 30 minutes yet discover new detail for days: a heraldic crest here, a hole-in-the-wall gelateria there. Pair it with a day trip to Lumbarda village, where you'll find the sandy beach of Pržina and a white wine introduced by Ancient Greeks, Grk — Bire vineyard has tastings. 5. MljetOne third of Mljet is protected by its namesake national park. Swim in interconnected saltwater lakes near Pomena or paddle a kayak to the former Benedictine church but, to escape Dubrovnik day-trippers, be sure to take a five-hour walk around northwest bays, winding up at the village of Govedari. For adventure, visit Odysseus Cave, where the hero was said to have been captivated by Circe. Because Dalmatia hogs the spotlight, the islands of the northern Adriatic are quieter, ferry travel with a car is easier and there's usually more space on the beach. Yet the region offers many quintessentially Croatian holiday experiences. There are semi-wild islands like Cres — roughly pronounced 'tsress', with seductive sibilants — where rare vultures ride thermal winds. Also Pag, which has a singular, austere beauty. On Lošinj — 'losheen' — there are handsome harbours and, in Rab Town, a cat's cradle of historic streets as picturesque as any in the country. Ironically, this region was the first to appear in Croatia's brochures — Lošinj emerged as a wellness destination for Austro-Hungarians in the late 1800s. King Edward VIII, visiting Rab in 1936, so thoroughly embraced the holiday spirit he was moved to skinny-dip. 1. Krk TownPick up a car at Rijeka airport and you're already on Krk island. A bridge to the mainland has introduced development, but you soon escape its excesses in the older part of compact Krk Town. How old? Well, beneath a glass floor in beachwear shop Memento is a Roman temple of Venus, while cafe-nightclub Volsonis incorporates an antique tomb. Pair it with a trip to surrounding settlements: wine village Vrbnik and rustic Dobrinj are the best. 2. Tramuntana, CresWild, rare and spectacularly ill-suited to modernity, griffon vultures seem emblematic of Tramuntana, in the northern part of Cres. Here, Beli village is an Adriatic idyll of grey stone and terracotta and home to a rehabilitation centre for Europe's rarest indigenous vulture. You may see them soaring over sea cliffs while you walk signposted paths into the wooded region. Afterwards, head south to the Venetian harbour of Cres Town; nearby rustic restaurant Bukaleta serves the best lamb on the island. 3. Mali Lošinj, LošinjThis town was destined to be a major port of the Austro-Hungarian empire until its harbour was deemed too small for steamships, which is why it remains a handsome little waterfront with good restaurants in former captains' houses along the quay. Culture comes in at the Apoxyomenos Museum; its star piece is the eponymous 2,000-year-old bronze of an athlete positively twanging with youthful vigour. 4. Rab Town, Rab'Closer to reminiscence than reality,' said Victorian architect TG Jackson of this dream-like old town. Above alleys jostling with gothic and Renaissance mansions, a series of church spires rise like masts on a square-rig sailing ship. If you only ascend one make it the highest, St Mary's Campanile's bell tower, built in the 12th century. Be sure to stop in on 11th-century St Andrew's Monastery, where Benedictine nuns sell herbal remedies, heirs to a tradition dating to the Middle Ages at least. 5. PagThe Venetian Republic cleared this island's forests and the Adriatic's bura wind cold-blasted their regrowth so, today, Pag is as austere and magical as a desert; its bare limestone more lunar than terrestrial. Pag's beaches are hugely varied — from August clubbing on Zrće to wild escapism at Ručica — but among Croatians it's best known for paški sir (sheep's cheese), and lamb self-seasoned by a diet of wild, salty sage. Producer Gligora offers tours and a cheese bar, while rural hotel Boškinac has a fine slow-food restaurant. Published in the June 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
Daily Mail
6 days ago
- General
- Daily Mail
How to find the perfect African Caribbean island for your holiday - as we reveal the best ones for beautiful beaches, hiking and volcanic adventures
The Republic of Cabo Verde (as it's officially known) comprises 10 islands, of which nine are occupied. But which is right for you? To a passing spaceship, this engaging country of the west coast of Africa must look like a scattering of crumbs. Each island is golden brown, with jagged volcanic edges rimmed by surf. Yet zoom in and differences appear. The eastern islands are biscuit-flat and sifted with sand, while further west they become mountainous and greenery appears. But wherever you go, a friendly welcome awaits. It seldom rains, and the sun always shines. All you need to do is choose the right island. Here's our lowdown... Step into history To understand the archipelago's story, start in Santiago, the rugged and fertile largest island - the first to be settled (by Portugal) in 1462. In fact, Cidade Velha lays claim to being the oldest European city in the tropics. The more recent 18th century capital, Praia, was built on a pedestal of basalt out of reach of pirates. It's an intriguing, charming place with churches, fortifications, cobbled streets, bandstands and fruit-coloured mansions. There's even the odd museum. At the Praia Archaeology Museum, objects found in shipwrecks are displayed. Meanwhile, the House Museum Amilcar Cabral tells the tale of West Africa's Che Guevara, whose umbrella, beanie and Czechoslovakian combat jacket are among the exhibits. Elsewhere, fruit still goes to market balanced on heads. And you can still buy Praia's traditional cloth, panu di tera - so fine it was once used as a currency. Pause at the Café Sofia and enjoy a pastel de nata. Santiago, it seems, is not quite Africa and not quite Portugal but somewhere in between. Beautiful beaches Head to Sal or Boa Vista for beaches that stretch to the horizon, glowing silver and turquoise. Although it may appear that you have them almost to yourself, huge hotels lurk up in the dunes, cunningly designed to blend into the landscape, with some looking like Berber forts. Expect lakesized pools and tropical gardens - they're a fly-and-floppers' heaven. Two hotels is Sal deserve mention. The Morabeza, which opened in the 1960s, is charmingly retro, and comes with a library and two gargantuan billiard tables. The Hilton Cabo Verde Sol resort is more contemporary, bringing a little urban chic to the dunes, with grounds so lush and calm they're home to egrets. Sal's seaside town, Santa Maria, is a more acquired taste: great if you seek a surfboard, tattoo or boozy night out. Hiker's delight Santiago and Fogo are both good for hiking, but the best trails are on Santo Antao. It tops out at 6,493ft (1,979m), with sheer slopes rising dramatically. Yet, somehow, a cobbled road threads upwards through the craters and gorges although you'll need a head for heights; in places the roadside drops terrifyingly away around 3,280ft (1,000m). Most visitors head for the Vale do Paul, which looks like a huge crack in the planet. But there are farms clinging to the sides of this gigantic ravine, and tiny terraces of sugar cane and maize. The sudden greenness of everything is almost blinding. A good place to stop is Cabo da Ribeira. Here the road ends and the donkeys take over. It's the sounds you remember most; the trickle of water; voices singing; a blacksmith's hammer. Life is simple here. The walking is spectacular. While paths are steep - most of the mountains plunge vertically into the ocean - they're often cobbled. The Aldea Panoramica Hotel makes a good base. Musical treats Sao Vicente may seem like an odd spot for a carnival. Until the Age of Steam, it was largely uninhabited but then the British built a coaling station. Now, however, all that's left are the mansions, a Victorian fort, a few yachts and the music. Mindelo, the capital, is often described as 'the prettiest town in West Africa'. One of the world's greatest singers, Cesaria Evora was born here and there are plenty of bars where they belt out her soulful songs. Try Jazzy Bird, La Pergola, Casa Café Mindelo or - my favourite - Le Metalo. The island's annual Carnival begins each Shrove Tuesday; the stunning sound of 100 drums is utterly exhilarating. Volcanic Adventure Of all the islands, Fogo (or 'Fire') is the wildest, tallest and strangest. It's an active volcano and has erupted 27 times during the past 500 years. There have been no fatalities since 1847, and the islanders shrug off the danger. Most of them live out on the slopes of old lava flows. Take a ride up to the volcano's crater. It's five-and-a-half miles across, beautifully black and silent. From here, it's a four-hour trek up the biggest cone, Pico, at 9,281ft (2,829m). Extraordinarily, there are 600 people living inside the crater. During a 2014 eruption, both their villages were destroyed. A few buildings have been excavated since, and there's a scorched-looking bar, while the old hotel still lies under 20ft (6m) of lava. Otherwise, it's business as usual. But Fogo isn't just about lava. The main town, Sao Filipe, looks colourfully Cuban and is being lavishly restored. Stay out on the cliffs at the four-star Bamboo Xaguate Hotel and try some volcanic rosé on the town square. Sao Filipe even has its own beach (with sand as black as midnight).
