Which is the best Cape Verde island? Here's how to choose

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2 days ago

Cape Verde's landscape is spectacularly diverse: soaring volcanic peaks and magical cloud villages, kaleidoscopic desert mirages, biodiverse turquoise seas . . . when it comes to natural wonders, the archipelago's islands have it all. And if none of that were enough to lure visitors, then the steady year-round sunshine hours in return for a six-hour flight from the UK — minus the jet lag — might just do the trick.
There are four international airports (Santiago, Sao Vicente, Sal and Boa Vista) and local airports on all the populated islands except Brava and Santo Antao, which can be reached by water. Ferries operate between most of the islands but the seas are often rough and timetables unreliable, so internal flights are a faster, more reliable and cost-effective way to get around, with the added advantage of epic bird's-eye views. To explore the islands themselves, you can hire a rental car, but the roads are treacherous, so taxis or aluguers (shared taxis and minibuses) are advisable for all but the most confident drivers.
For luxury, all-inclusive and family-friendly resorts, Sal and Boa Vista are the most developed islands — but there are less-touristed alternatives that many miss. All but one of the archipelago's ten islands are inhabited (Santa Luzia is the only uninhabited island). Here's how to choose between them.
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For some travellers, Sal is simply a pitstop between islands — most international and plenty of local flight traffic flows through Amilcar Cabral international airport — but for the many sun-loving devotees of Cape Verde's most popular destination it is the simple things that keep them here: the consistently warm, dry climate and sublime golden beaches. Sal has several sprawling resorts from international hotel brands like Hilton and Meliá, but you can also find boutique options. Sal's windswept desert landscape can feel a little sparse, but there is plenty to keep visitors occupied: soak up nourishing minerals at Pedra de Lume's surreal salt lakes, see baby lemon sharks at Shark Bay, or visit the Terra Boa mirage where an optical illusion conjures an ocean in the heart of the desert.
Originally built as a private farmhouse by its Belgian owners, Hotel Morabeza is one of the most popular independent resorts on the island, and for good reason.
Sail around Sal on a full-day catamaran cruise with Tui, with all your drinks and snacks included.
• Best hotels in Sal
The easternmost island in the archipelago and the closest to Africa, Boa Vista is known for epic white sands and historic shipwrecks — the best-known is the skeleton of the Cabo Santa Maria on Atalanta beach — that can be reached on foot in about two hours from Sal Rei or on one of the island's many 4×4 tours. Along with Santiago, Boa Vista has the joint second-busiest international airport in Cape Verde and there are plenty of budget flights available. Boa Vista also has the third largest population of loggerhead turtles in the world, migrating humpback whales, tropical corals and considerable biodiversity, so there is plenty to learn about the Atlantic's aquatic occupants here.
Although Boa Vista is around three times the size of Sal and popular with holidaymakers, its character is more laid-back. Still, there's plenty of fun to be found in Sal Rei, the island's biggest town, which is home to a couple of wonderful family-owned museums — Sodade House of Memory, an elegant local restaurant exhibiting local artefacts, and the Museu dos Naufragos, which is constructed entirely from local and recycled materials and charts the history and culture of Cape Verde.
For night owls, there is an abundance of bars, beach parties and local music. Don't miss local institution the Morabeza Beach Club, which is where beach bums gather for cocktails and fresh lobster amid a languid Caribbean vibe.
For all-out relaxation, stay at VOI Praia De Chaves Resort, which has a private beach, two pools (one for children) and plenty of water sports.
Get away from the landlubbers and see the island from a different perspective on Viator's Boa Vista Adults-Only Cruise, on which you'll explore secluded beaches, snorkel and watch out for whales on a beautiful wooden sailing boat.
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In sharp contrast to much of the parched desert terrain of other Cape Verdean islands, northwesternmost Santo Antao is bursting with life. Wild figs and dragon trees, coconut palms and alpine firs all thrive in this mountainous volcanic terrain. Dizzying, vertiginous roads lead to fairytale valleys scored with cassava terraces and banana trees. Santo Antao is the second-largest island in Cape Verde, so to get around you will need wheels. You can drive yourself with a rental from Porto Novo, but unless you are extremely confident a local driver is a better option.
And there's plenty to explore. Visit Fontainhas, a colourful cluster of homes perched on hazy cliffs with a view that has been acclaimed as one of the most beautiful in the world. Locals use donkeys to reach the village but tourists take taxis or rental cars. Sinuous paths, gorgeous mountain vistas and lush ribeiras make it a paradise for hikers. Back down to earth, volcanic black beaches glitter in the turquoise surf, although they are not all ideal for swimming. Generally the seas here are pretty lively but the lava tubes and manta rays beneath the waves will keep keen divers happy. Accommodation ranges from traditional bungalows to eco-lodges, guest houses and some boutique hotels.
Stay at Aldea Panoramica, a secret sanctuary in Paul, the greenest, most beautiful valley on the island.
Exodus Adventure Travels' varied seven-night private tour of Cape Verde's northern islands takes in Santo Antao as well as Mindelo and Sao Vicente.
• Discover our full guide to Cape Verde
Sao Vicente is the cultural heart of the Cape Verdean islands. One of the smaller islands, measuring around 88 square miles, what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in spirit. In the capital, Mindelo, you can wander the streets and follow the music: small jazz clubs spill out onto the squares, carnival relics rest in colourful courtyards and the streets fizz with life. There is a proud cultural and creative heritage in Mindelo, marked by various museums and festivals like the Cape Verde Carnival, held on Shrove Tuesday, and the Museu Cesaria Evora, dedicated to the singer known as the 'Barefoot Diva'. Vivid murals of Cesaria, Cape Verde's most famous musical export, also grace the bright colonial architecture.
Much of the island is made up of desert-like terrain but there are some excellent hikes to be found and it's well worth taking the six-hour walking route from Mindelo to the top of Monte Verde to drink tea distilled from cloud water at the Cabana de Cha tea house. There are few luxury hotels in Mindelo but you'll find good boutique offerings, hiker's lodges and simple guesthouses.
In the heart of Mindelo, just minutes from Laginha beach, is Casa da Djedja, a rustic guesthouse with an elegant courtyard that's perfect for alfresco breakfasts.
Sao Vicente is a popular cruise destination. P&O's Southampton To Freemantle sailing visits Lisbon, Madeira and Sao Vicente, among other vibrant ports, on its 39-night voyage to Australia.
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The clue is in the title: fogo means fire in Portuguese. With the sole remaining active volcano in Cape Verde, Fogo's dramatic, lava-scarred landscape comes alive with the cool eucalyptus woods and coffee fields that break through the scorched terrain. The unusually mineral-rich volcanic terroir supports small but internationally respected coffee and wine industries. Both the wine and coffee have unique taste profiles and a multitude of tours are available to help visitors explore the local artisanal produce. The award-winning vineyard at Cha das Caldeiras is the best known and has its own guesthouse. Wander the lunar craters and caves of Cha das Caldeiras National Park and taste the local wines or hike to the summit of the Pico do Fogo volcano. Make Sao Filipe your final stop to see the charming sky-blue church and souvenir shop for colourful ceramics and fabrics in the local markets. Stock up on local wine and coffee beans or, for the stronger constitution, grogue — the local sugar-cane liquor.
Stay at Casa Marisa, where the eco-lodges are built on lava fields — in places the floors are still warm to the touch.
Sample the high life on a Fogo wine and cheese tasting tour with Get Your Guide — it's not every day you get to taste wine with volcano views. Brava, the smallest of Cape Verde's inhabited islands, is tucked away behind Fogo in the western tail of the island chain. Known as Ilha das Flores — Island of Flowers — the island's high altitude feeds abundant lush valleys and verdant peaks packed with maize and mangos, sugar cane and papaya trees.
Brava is only accessible by ferry from Fogo, which takes around an hour — but the journey makes the whole experience feel that much more special when you reach Brava's mysterious, often cloud-shrouded shores. Explore the bay around Faja de Agua, renowned for its wild natural swimming pools carved into the ancient black rock, and seek out handicrafts in the main town of Nova Sintra, named for its Portuguese cousin. Small guesthouses, villas and B&Bs are the main accommodation on the island.
You'll find charming private bungalows on the slopes of the caldera above Sao Filipe at La Fora Ecolodge.
Immerse yourself in local culture by visiting towns and buying local fish and goat's cheese on this Brava Island: the Routes of Morna day trip (morna being Cape Verde's traditional music).Fittingly for the largest island of the Cape Verde archipelago, Santiago has elements of all the other islands — dramatic green valleys and the imposing volcanic Serra Malagueta mountain range, gold and black sand beaches, vibrant orchards and vegetable gardens rich with cassava and yam, and lemon, fig and coconut trees. It's also home to what is considered the oldest European settlement in West Africa, former capital Cidade Velha, now a Unesco world heritage site. Spend the morning exploring the old fort and Pillory Square then head to the new capital Praia, a half-hour drive to the east. As the most populous city in Cape Verde, Praia also offers plenty of variety and a spectrum of places to stay, from sleek upmarket resorts to humble boutique hotels. Meander round the buzzing African food market, lose an afternoon in the cultural museums, watch the locals practise capoeira or just take in some local music and cocktails as the sun goes down over the bay.
A peaceful eco-boutique resort on the gorgeous shores of Ponta de Atum, the King Fisher Village has an infinity pool, stylish rooms and homegrown food.
Visit Santiago on Saga's 18-night Canaries and Culture of Cape Verde cruise, with the option to explore the island on a 4×4 excursion. Just a 20-minute flight from neighbouring Santiago, Maio is one of the least developed islands in the chain. There is very little in the way of traffic here, human or otherwise, and the glorious white-sand beaches rival those of the Maldives. Accommodation is simple but welcoming, while palm trees and mature acacia forests provide relief from the arid desert heat. While away the hours in the pretty main town, Porto Ingles, and make sure to sample local goat's cheese and delicious caldeirada de peixe (fish stew). Make time for a visit to the tranquil north coast to spot seabirds and, if you're lucky, a white-tailed eagle.
Beachfront Casa Evora, located a few minutes' drive from the airport, is a simple but convenient base from which to explore the island.
See the highlights of Maio and end the day with a dip at Bitchirotcha beach on this full-day guided tour via Get Your Guide.Often overlooked in favour of the more populous islands, unspoilt Sao Nicolau is a photographer's dream. It's one of the smaller islands —less than 15 miles at its widest point — so you can see a lot in a day. The Carbeirinho cliffs to the west are one of Cape Verde's most beautiful natural wonders. Sculpted over centuries by the sea, the curved strata of limestone and the caves beneath are something special. Less than half an hour's drive south, you can submerge yourself in the fabled healing sands of Tarrafal beach, or in the wilder north soak in the natural basalt rock pools of Juncalinho. Monte Gordo National Park is the heart of the island. Its misty peaks are home to what is known as the dragon blood tree for the red sap it secretes, used by locals to treat pain.
The summit views from Monte Gordo are staggering. A variety of trails will take you to the top — the highest point of the island — and you should allow three to six hours for this, depending on your level of fitness and skill. On a clear day you see the whole of Sao Nicolau, Vicente and Santo Antao. The island's main town, Ribeira Brava, is set in a deep green valley, a location that once helped to conceal its citizens from pirate attacks. Potter around the jumbled, cobbled streets, marvel at the candy-coloured colonial architecture, and stop by the impressive cathedral and town square to people watch. You can reach Sao Nicolau by ferry but the seas are often rough and internal flights between the islands are generally more reliable — plus the descent into the dramatic, volcanic interior is worth the ticket. Accommodation is limited to small guesthouses and home stays.
A bright, Insta-friendly guesthouse, the Pensao Bela Sombra has both the island's capital and spectacular mountain terrain on its doorstep.
belasombra.cv
See the best bits of Sao Nicolau on a 4×4 private tour that, along with the sights, includes a stop at the beach for a swim.
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