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‘I read my washing machine manual – and it changed the way I wash clothes forever'
‘I read my washing machine manual – and it changed the way I wash clothes forever'

Telegraph

time3 days ago

  • General
  • Telegraph

‘I read my washing machine manual – and it changed the way I wash clothes forever'

I've always been an insufferable manual hoarder. Much to my partner's dismay, not only do I insist on keeping every single one (yes, even the toaster's), but I actually read them too. Most of them aren't particularly illuminating, with the exception of washing machine manuals. Washing machine manuals can – and will – change your life. When I stopped renting and the opportunity to buy my own white goods arose, the awaiting reading assignments excited me no end. As soon as my washing machine was hooked up, I did the thing most normal people have no time for – I sat down to digest every page of my manual, and it's truly changed the way I'll wash my clothes forever. Last year, a study by appliance brand AEG found that 46 per cent of people rarely consult their washing machine's instruction manual. The reason, I expect, is that we're all confident our laundering knowledge is pre-programmed. You pick the most convenient cycle (my money's on 60-minute cotton) and wash everything at 40C and the highest spin speed. Yes, your clothes might be clean, but those threadbare sheets and stretched elastics don't lie. Armed with my trusty manual's knowledge and some expert advice to back it up, I'm here to help you demystify your washing machine for clothes that are cleaner, softer and longer-lasting. Do washing programmes really matter? On average, modern washing machines have between 10 and 14 different cycles, and yet, most of us rely on the same select programmes for all our laundry. Decoding all of these different settings might seem complicated, but they do all have their place. I can practically hear your thoughts; should I really bother with a three-hour cotton setting, and can a 15-minute express wash actually be effective? The answer to both is yes. Bath towels or bedsheets, especially high thread-count cottons, really do benefit from that lengthy setting. 'Cotton is highly absorbent and can hold a significant amount of water, requiring longer wash and rinse cycles to ensure thorough cleaning and removal of detergent,' says Malcolm Andre, home solutions product specialist at LG Electronics. The extended spin will also help extract as much water as possible. While intended for fewer, minimally soiled clothes (usually around a quarter of your machine's capacity), short express cycles of 15 to 30 minutes can still be highly effective. They'll also use a fraction of the water and energy compared to most programmes. Patric Richardson, better known as the Laundry Evangelist, says changes in technology have made these shorter cycles even more efficient. 'It's thanks to the innovations in our washing machines, fabrics and the effectiveness of detergents,' he says. Consult your own manual to see what each cycle offers, and always check clothing labels if in doubt. You should already know that delicate fibres like wool should always be washed on a slow, low-agitation setting, but you might not realise that denim also needs a cold, slow wash. And what about those typical daily loads of mixed laundry? In these cases, there's no need to overcomplicate. Generally, an all-purpose setting like 'mix', 'ECO' or 'daily' will do the job just fine. What temperature should you wash clothes at? Most of us are guilty of a false equivalence when it comes to washing clothes: hotter temperatures mean a better clean. Contrary to popular opinion, most experts agree that cooler, energy-efficient cycles work just as well (if not better). 'I'm always going to wash cooler,' says Richardson. 'Modern detergents are formulated to work at 20 degrees and once you go beyond that, there's no real benefit.' In fact, in certain cases, higher temperatures can actually hinder the performance of your detergent because the hot water deactivates the enzymes and surfactants. Sometimes, however, a hot wash will be needed. For heavily stained items or the likes of underwear and towels, the NHS website recommends a 60C wash to prevent the spread of germs, although a 40C wash will be sufficient if you use a bio detergent. What spin speed should you wash your clothes at? According to Andre, the best spin speed will depend on your load and the type of fabrics you're washing. 'A higher spin speed will remove more residual water, however there's a risk it can damage your clothes more,' he says. This is the case for delicate items like wool. Meanwhile, heavy loads such as pillows, duvets, or jeans can cause damage to your machine if they're run at higher spin speeds. As I learnt from my manual, this is why your machine has maximum spin speeds for certain settings (and why you should always use the 'bulky' setting for the likes of jeans, jackets, and duvets). 'If lots of residual water still remains, you can run another spin-only cycle to get more out for a reduced drying time,' Andre adds. The beauty of modern washing machines is that their automatic programmes will typically adjust spin speeds based on the weight of your load, taking out much of the guesswork. For more durable fabrics like cottons and synthetics (and most of our everyday wear), higher spin speeds are perfectly safe and more effective. How much detergent should you use (and where should it go)? If you thought more detergent meant cleaner clothes, you'd be mistaken. Generally, says Richardson, we're all using too much of the stuff. 'Less detergent actually yields cleaner clothes,' he says. This is because your machine can rinse out all the detergent properly. When too much detergent is used, it leaves behind a sticky residue that attracts dirt faster. Of course, you'll need to adjust the amount depending on the size of the load and how soiled your clothes are, 'but one or two tablespoons should be all that's needed', says Richardson. And, as my manual enlightened me, if your water is soft, you can use even less. Proper dispensation is also important. For liquid laundry detergents, dose directly into the back of the drum before you add your clothes. The same applies to washing pods, while powder should go into the drawer dispenser (typically the largest section on the left-hand side). If the rinse cycle isn't removing all the detergent from your drawer or drum, or if you notice lots of foam inside your machine, reduce the amount you use. What's the most economical washing cycle? Counterintuitively, the most energy-efficient programmes tend to be those with a longer duration but a low temperature. The longer soaking time and extended spin cycle compensate for the lower temperature, plus more water is extracted from your clothes for faster drying. If your clothes are only lightly soiled, however, a cold wash will always be the most economical. 'What some people don't realise is that most items can be washed on an eco-cycle setting,' says Andre. 'Hot washes can be saved for items such as bedding, towels and sportswear, as these are most likely to host more bacteria, however standard clothing can be washed at a cooler temperature – including stained items.' To ensure you're running your machine efficiently, use the correct amount of detergent so that extra rinse cycles aren't needed. You should also avoid partial loads to conserve water and energy, but don't be tempted to overload, either. 'While it is more cost-effective to fill up your machine, overfilling your appliance will mean the motor has to work more and cause excess heat, which could damage the appliance in the long term,' says Andre. 'A simple test to check if you're at optimum capacity is to place your hand on the top of the drum; if you can freely move your hand, you're good to go.' Does advice differ for a washer-dryer? My machine is a combination washer-dryer (the 8kg model from Logik, in case you were wondering). While convenient for smaller households, laundering advice differs for these two-in-one units. 'Load size is critical, as these machines often have smaller drying capacities, necessitating partial load removal for effective drying,' explains Andre. 'Ventilation and heat management also vary, with many combo units using slower, ventless condensation drying that can leave clothes feeling damp.' This is why you'll generally have longer drying times on combination machines, with less control over the duration compared to a normal tumble dryer. It's also important to leave the door open after use to prevent mould. To soften, or not to soften? It's a long-contested question among laundry experts: should fabric softener be part of your washing routine? When first introduced in the early 20th century, softener was just a mix of water and oils, but now these conditioners contain a host of fragrances, solvents and preservatives that can be damaging in more ways than one. Besides being a trigger for allergies, the formula can leave a waxy residue on your clothes. 'This coating makes your clothes much less absorbent,' says Richardson, 'which is especially problematic when it comes to towels, bedding, and intimates as it makes them perform less effectively'. For a cheaper, more effective alternative, try using half a cup of distilled vinegar in the softener dispenser to break down detergent residue, adding a few drops of your favourite essential oil for a subtle fragrance.

The GP1 Looks Like a Greatest Hits Album of Analog Supercars
The GP1 Looks Like a Greatest Hits Album of Analog Supercars

Yahoo

time14-08-2025

  • Automotive
  • Yahoo

The GP1 Looks Like a Greatest Hits Album of Analog Supercars

A British outfit called Garagisti & Co. is making some waves this week with gorgeous renderings of its super-limited, super-expensive hypercar called the GP1. The design is supposed to be inspired by 'icons of the '80s, '90s, and early 2000s,' and the spirit is all old-school sports driving awesomeness. Non-turbo V12, six-speed manual, rear-wheel drive, and an interior like a midcentury modern psychiatrist's office. Or maybe I'm just projecting that last bit—because it looks like driving this thing would be deeply therapeutic after being bombarded by screens in any other modern vehicle. The car looks complete in these images, and looking at them on a small screen, I thought they were photos at first myself. But the company's press release confirms that they are, in fact, digital renders. Garagisti & Co. states that the car is 'now in advanced stages of engineering and production.' I'm guessing the company's people wanted to roll out the idea to be part of the hypercar hype-wave that is Monterey Car Week, which is currently underway. Unfortunately, few of us will ever see one of these in person anywhere, let alone drive it, as the GP1's creators are only planning to make 25 and charging over $3.3 million (£2.45 million, to be exact) each. Still, it's a very pretty interior and exterior design that simultaneously looks unique while reminding me of a few different cars in the elite class of low-production performance machines. I see a lot of Ford GT, some Lamborghini, Lancia, some Ferrari … any elements look particularly familiar to you? Garagisti & Co. has some big-name supplier collaborators, like Brembo (brakes), Öhlins (suspension), and Xtrac (transmission). But the fact that it's making a 'completely new and bespoke' engine is exceptionally wild. And probably a big part of why the price is so high. I think it's madness to make an entirely custom engine just for 25 cars—how the heck is anybody supposed to find parts for this in five years? Very cool, extremely impractical. I guess that's what cars at this level are kind of all about, though. The V12 will have 6.6 liters of displacement, rev to 9,000 rpm, and claim 800 horsepower (and 'over' 516 lb-ft of torque). Since the car is only supposed to weigh 2,200 pounds (dry), that should be enough juice to enter orbit. It's not clear where the motor's at in development, but conceptually, it sounds awesome. So does the ethos behind the whole project. 'Our vision for Garagisti was born from a simple question,' said Garagisti & Co. co-founder Mario Escudero in a press release. 'What if the golden age of analogue supercars never ended? What if icons like the Countach Evoluzione had sparked a lineage rather than a dead-end? What would the great cars of the '80s, '90s and early 2000s look like today if they'd evolved with new technology but kept their analogue soul? We brought together some of the best minds in the world and answered that question with our hands, our hearts, and our passion. The GP1 is our answer.' Swipe through here to see some more renders of this magnificent beast: The company describes itself as 'a coalition of specialists, not generalists,' listing out key collaborators: Italtecnica Srl (engine development and calibration) DEXET Technologies (chassis, monocoque, and aerodynamic development) Angel Guerra (exterior and interior design) I like this trend of super-fancy cars leaning into the ideas of tactility and analoginess. Here's hoping the notion trickles back down to more basic brands and old-world warmth makes a comeback over the kitchen appliance aesthetic so many mid-range cars are leaning into these days. Got a tip? Send us a note at tips@

The GP1 Looks Like a Greatest Hits Album of Analog Supercars
The GP1 Looks Like a Greatest Hits Album of Analog Supercars

The Drive

time13-08-2025

  • Automotive
  • The Drive

The GP1 Looks Like a Greatest Hits Album of Analog Supercars

The latest car news, reviews, and features. A British outfit called Garagisti & Co. is making some waves this week with gorgeous renderings of its super-limited, super-expensive hypercar called the GP1. The design is supposed to be inspired by 'icons of the '80s, '90s, and early 2000s,' and the spirit is all old-school sports driving awesomeness. Non-turbo V12, six-speed manual, rear-wheel drive, and an interior like a midcentury modern psychiatrist's office. Or maybe I'm just projecting that last bit—because it looks like driving this thing would be deeply therapeutic after being bombarded by screens in any other modern vehicle. The car looks complete in these images, and looking at them on a small screen, I thought they were photos at first myself. But the company's press release confirms that they are, in fact, digital renders. Garagisti & Co. states that the car is 'now in advanced stages of engineering and production.' I'm guessing the company's people wanted to roll out the idea to be part of the hypercar hype-wave that is Monterey Car Week, which is currently underway. Unfortunately, few of us will ever see one of these in person anywhere, let alone drive it, as the GP1's creators are only planning to make 25 and charging over $3.3 million (£2.45 million, to be exact) each. Still, it's a very pretty interior and exterior design that simultaneously looks unique while reminding me of a few different cars in the elite class of low-production performance machines. I see a lot of Ford GT, some Lamborghini, Lancia, some Ferrari … any elements look particularly familiar to you? Garagisti & Co. has some big-name supplier collaborators, like Brembo (brakes), Öhlins (suspension), and Xtrac (transmission). But the fact that it's making a 'completely new and bespoke' engine is exceptionally wild. And probably a big part of why the price is so high. I think it's madness to make an entirely custom engine just for 25 cars—how the heck is anybody supposed to find parts for this in five years? Very cool, extremely impractical. I guess that's what cars at this level are kind of all about, though. Garagisti & Co. The V12 will have 6.6 liters of displacement, rev to 9,000 rpm, and claim 800 horsepower (and 'over' 516 lb-ft of torque). Since the car is only supposed to weigh 2,200 pounds (dry), that should be enough juice to enter orbit. It's not clear where the motor's at in development, but conceptually, it sounds awesome. So does the ethos behind the whole project. 'Our vision for Garagisti was born from a simple question,' said Garagisti & Co. co-founder Mario Escudero in a press release. 'What if the golden age of analogue supercars never ended? What if icons like the Countach Evoluzione had sparked a lineage rather than a dead-end? What would the great cars of the '80s, '90s and early 2000s look like today if they'd evolved with new technology but kept their analogue soul? We brought together some of the best minds in the world and answered that question with our hands, our hearts, and our passion. The GP1 is our answer.' Swipe through here to see some more renders of this magnificent beast: The company describes itself as 'a coalition of specialists, not generalists,' listing out key collaborators: I like this trend of super-fancy cars leaning into the ideas of tactility and analoginess. Here's hoping the notion trickles back down to more basic brands and old-world warmth makes a comeback over the kitchen appliance aesthetic so many mid-range cars are leaning into these days. Got a tip? Send us a note at tips@

You've Been Using Your Oven's Bottom Drawer All Wrong
You've Been Using Your Oven's Bottom Drawer All Wrong

CNET

time12-05-2025

  • General
  • CNET

You've Been Using Your Oven's Bottom Drawer All Wrong

That drawer under your oven probably seems like the perfect spot to stash baking sheets or pans. There's so much extra space there, why wouldn't you put all the pots and pans you don't have room for in your cabinets there? Here's the thing: That drawer may not actually be for storage after all. You may be surprised to hear that, in some oven models, it's actually meant to keep food warm before serving. Others use it as a secondary broiler. And yes, some really are just for holding your cookware. You'd need to consult your manual to be sure, and you should go ahead and admit that you haven't. Otherwise, you probably wouldn't be reading this right now. Don't worry, though. We aren't about to give you a reading assignment because we're breaking it all down in easy to understand terms right now. Here's how to find out what your bottom oven drawer is actually for, and how to use it the right way. Read more: Clever Cleaning Hacks for the Hardest-to-Reach Crevices in Your Kitchen How to clean your oven with baking soda and vinegar How to clean your oven with baking soda and vinegar Click to unmute Video Player is loading. Play Video Pause Skip Backward Skip Forward Next playlist item Unmute Current Time 0:05 / Duration 1:29 Loaded : 46.35% 0:05 Stream Type LIVE Seek to live, currently behind live LIVE Remaining Time - 1:24 Share Fullscreen This is a modal window. Beginning of dialog window. Escape will cancel and close the window. Text Color White Black Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta Cyan Opacity Opaque Semi-Transparent Text Background Color Black White Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta Cyan Opacity Opaque Semi-Transparent Transparent Caption Area Background Color Black White Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta Cyan Opacity Transparent Semi-Transparent Opaque Font Size 50% 75% 100% 125% 150% 175% 200% 300% 400% Text Edge Style None Raised Depressed Uniform Drop shadow Font Family Proportional Sans-Serif Monospace Sans-Serif Proportional Serif Monospace Serif Casual Script Small Caps Reset Done Close Modal Dialog End of dialog window. Close Modal Dialog This is a modal window. This modal can be closed by pressing the Escape key or activating the close button. Close Modal Dialog This is a modal window. This modal can be closed by pressing the Escape key or activating the close button. How to clean your oven with baking soda and vinegar 3 functions of your oven's bottom drawer Warming drawer A warming drawer is easy to identify. Take a look at the buttons on your oven. If one of them is labeled "Warming Drawer" then that's exactly what you have. Anytime you need to warm a pie or a loaf of bread -- or you just want to keep dishes warm while the rest of the meal finishes cooking -- pop it into the warming drawer and push the warming button. Broiler Broiler drawers are typically found on gas ovens and are very narrow. Chris Monroe/CNET If you have an oven heated with natural gas, the drawer is typically a broiler. To be sure, pull open the door. If it looks more like a retractable pan than a drawer, then it's a broiler. Think of the broiler as an extra cooking area. It's best for toasting or browning foods like casseroles or breads. Any item placed in the broiler will burn quickly, though, so check on it every couple of minutes. Storage drawer A storage drawer is usually much deeper than a warming drawer or broiler. Chris Monroe/CNET If there isn't a warming button and the area looks like a deep, empty drawer, then you probably have a storage drawer. As per a recent Reddit discussion, many people are unsure about what to keep in this space. This is a good place to store cast iron pots and pans, because the warmth from your oven will help keep them rust free. Just be sure not to store plastic items in this drawer, because they may become warped due to residual heat. Likewise, some older ovens have little insulation and may heat your metal cookware when the oven is on. As a precaution, always use oven mitts to remove cookware during or after your oven has been in use.

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