Latest news with #mechanicalwatches
Forbes
30-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
Louis Erard And Konstantin Chaykin Introduce The Time Eater Tourbillon
Time Eeater Tourbillon Louis Erard and independent Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin have released a new variation of their collaborative Time Eater design, this time featuring a tourbillon complication. The release includes two limited editions, each built around a manually wound, regulator-style movement with a 60-second tourbillon and 100-hour power reserve. Wrist shot Both versions retain the recognizable features of the original Time Eater, including the offbeat animated dial layout. Time is displayed with a rotating hour disc at 12 o'clock, a central minutes hand, and a seconds hand integrated into a subdial at 6 o'clock. A red tongue-shaped hand marks the seconds, housed within a stylized open mouth that forms the tourbillon aperture. The design remains intentionally unconventional, combining mechanical complexity with Chaykin's signature visual storytelling. Side view The green version, limited to 78 pieces and sold by Louis Erard, uses a polished 42mm stainless steel case and is paired with a black toad leather strap. The blue version, limited to 28 pieces and sold exclusively by Chaykin, comes on a grained calf leather strap. Both models share the same case architecture, sapphire crystals front and back, and water resistance rated to 5 bar. Inside is the Caliber BCP T02, a hand-wound movement operating at 3 Hz. The tourbillon cage completes one rotation per minute and is visible through the dial cutout at 6 o'clock. Decoration includes circular Côtes de Genève across the movement plates and bridges. Each version is priced at CHF 19,900 before tax.
New York Times
10-06-2025
- Automotive
- New York Times
Do You Really Need a Highly Accurate Watch?
Sixty years ago, before the advent of cheap and accurate Japanese-made quartz timepieces all but decimated the Swiss watch industry, mechanical wristwatches had one overriding purpose: to keep time with unwavering accuracy. 'But in the modern age, or what we call the mechanical renaissance and thereafter, precision hasn't been a huge subject,' said Elizabeth Doerr, a watch journalist in Karlsruhe, Germany. 'Mechanical watches are precise enough for most of us. If you want more precision, then you have to have a quartz watch.' Try telling that to Rolex. The watchmaker — which in 2024 had estimated sales of 10.6 billion Swiss francs ($12.9 billion), or almost a third of all Swiss watch sales — is now at the forefront of an industrywide effort to ensure that precision-focused mechanical timepieces maintain their relevance in a world that doesn't actually need them. On April 1, at the Watches and Wonders Geneva trade fair, the brand introduced its first new model in 13 years. Known as the Land-Dweller, the watch was the talk of the town (at least before President Trump's tariff announcement the next day usurped the conversation). While many commenters focused on the watch's slim styling and integrated bracelet, watch insiders devoted the lion's share of attention to the Land-Dweller's entirely new mechanical movement. Specifically, on what many people at the fair and around the trade called its game-changing Dynapulse escapement (the term refers to the mechanical watch mechanism that controls the release of energy from the mainspring to the hands). Widely hailed as more energy efficient and shock resistant and therefore more robust and longer-lasting than existing escapements — such as the traditional Swiss lever escapement, which for more than two centuries has served as the industry standard — the Dynapulse gave technically inclined fans of watchmaking plenty to admire. Want all of The Times? Subscribe.
Associated Press
01-06-2025
- Business
- Associated Press
Seagull Watch Announces Premium Line Launch and Signals Shift Toward Global High-End Market
GENEVA, June 1, 2025 -- At global luxury watch fairs like Baselworld and Watches & Wonders, Swiss and German brands dominate the spotlight with six-figure timepieces boasting intricate complications. Yet conspicuously absent are Chinese mechanical watches—despite their ability to deliver comparable technical feats at a fraction of the cost. The reason? A stark contrast in pricing strategies, rooted in manufacturing efficiency and market positioning, has created an invisible barrier for brands like Tianjin Seagull, China's leading mechanical watchmaker. The Price Paradox: When Affordability Becomes a Liability Take the tourbillon, a mechanism invented in 1801 to counteract gravity's effects on pocket watches. Swiss brands like Patek Philippe and Breguet price their tourbillons from $100,000 to over $1 million, framing them as symbols of exclusivity. By contrast, Seagull's tourbillon watches start at just $1,400 (RMB 10,000) and cap at $35,000 for limited-edition models like the 18K rose gold 'Double Axis' tourbillon. Similarly, Seagull's split-seconds chronograph—a complication requiring over 300 components—retails for $3,400 (RMB 23,800), while Swiss equivalents from brands like Patek Philippe or Lange & Söhne command prices exceeding $200,000. This pricing disparity stems from China's industrial ecosystem. Seagull leverages decades of vertical integration, producing everything from hairsprings to escapements in-house. For instance, its ST19 chronograph movement—a derivative of the Swiss Venus 175—has been manufactured domestically since the 1960s, slashing production costs. Additionally, labor costs in Tianjin, Seagull's home base, are significantly lower than in Switzerland's Jura region, where luxury brands face stringent labor regulations and high wages. Technical Breakthroughs vs. Brand Legacy Seagull's engineering prowess is undeniable. The ST1961 split-seconds chronograph movement, for example, features a column wheel and horizontal clutch—a design philosophy shared with Patek Philippe's $2 million Ref. 5370. While Swiss brands emphasize hand-finishing and decorative techniques like anglage, Seagull prioritizes functional precision. Its tourbillons, such as the ST8030 calibre, achieve a 72-hour power reserve and a 28,800 vph frequency, rivaling Swiss counterparts in performance. Yet technical parity hasn't translated to global recognition. At the 2024 Geneva Watch Exhibition, Seagull's $598,000 'Double Axis' tourbillon—a masterpiece with two rotating cages—was overshadowed by Swiss novelties. Industry insiders attribute this to entrenched perceptions. 'Luxury watches are about heritage and storytelling,' notes a veteran horologist. 'Seagull's 70-year history pales against Switzerland's 300-year dominance, making it harder to justify premium positioning'. Market Dynamics: The Luxury Sector's Catch-22 Swiss giants like Swatch Group and Richemont have long cultivated an image of scarcity. Limited editions, artisanal marketing, and controlled distribution sustain high margins. Seagull, meanwhile, targets accessibility. Its $4,980 '1963' chronograph—a reissue of China's first aviation watch—sells tens of thousands of units annually, appealing to enthusiasts seeking value. However, this volume-driven approach clashes with the luxury sector's exclusivity ethos. The result is a paradox: Seagull's affordability undermines its prestige. While Swiss brands profit from aspirational pricing, Seagull's $3,400 split-seconds chronograph—though mechanically superior to many $50,000 Swiss models—struggles to penetrate high-end retailers. Compounding this, geopolitical tensions and tariffs further complicate Western market entry. A Path Forward: Bridging the Perception Gap Seagull's recent forays into hybrid designs hint at a strategy shift. The 2025 'Dragon's Echo' model, combining a tourbillon, perpetual calendar, and minute repeater, targets collectors at $150,000—a bold step toward premium positioning. Collaborations with independent Swiss watchmakers could also enhance credibility. Moreover, younger consumers increasingly prioritize value over legacy. As noted in Swatch Group's 2024 earnings report, mid-tier Swiss brands like Tissot are gaining traction in China, while ultra-luxury sales slump. Seagull's challenge lies in balancing its mass-market roots with aspirational storytelling—perhaps by highlighting innovations like its patented (weight-adjustable balance wheel) or its role in China's space program. Conclusion: The Silent Disruption China's watchmaking revolution is unfolding quietly. While Seagull's absence from global exhibitions reflects today's market realities, its technical achievements and disruptive pricing signal a broader shift. As one collector remarked, 'Why pay for a Swiss logo when Seagull offers the same mechanics at 5% of the cost?' The answer, for now, lies in the intangible allure of tradition—but the tides may yet turn. For further details on Seagull's innovations, visit Website: AliExpress: Amazon: Contact Info: Name: Lynne Lin Email: Send Email Organization: Beijing Ttime Network Co.,Ltd Website: Release ID: 89161325 If there are any errors, inconsistencies, or queries arising from the content contained within this press release that require attention or if you need assistance with a press release takedown, we kindly request that you inform us immediately by contacting [email protected] (it is important to note that this email is the authorized channel for such matters, sending multiple emails to multiple addresses does not necessarily help expedite your request). Our reliable team will be available to promptly respond within 8 hours, taking proactive measures to rectify any identified issues or providing guidance on the removal process. Ensuring accurate and dependable information is our top priority.
Mail & Guardian
15-05-2025
- Automotive
- Mail & Guardian
Servicing luxury watches in SA
Servicing a watch. Owning a luxury watch is about more than telling time; it's an investment in craftsmanship and heritage. Whether it's a Rolex, Omega, Patek Philippe or Tag Heuer, luxury timepieces require meticulous care and regular servicing to maintain their performance and value. In South Africa, The importance of regular servicing Luxury watches in South Africa are mechanical marvels, often containing hundreds of tiny components working in harmony. Over time, the natural movement of these parts can cause wear, even in the hardiest of models. South Africa's varied climate, with its dust, humidity and coastal air, can also accelerate the deterioration of lubricants and gaskets. As a rule of thumb, watchmakers recommend servicing a mechanical or automatic watch every three to five years, though some high-performance models may require attention more frequently. Servicing involves complete disassembly of the watch, ultrasonic cleaning, oiling, reassembly, timing adjustments and rigorous quality testing. This maintains the accuracy of the timepiece and prevents costly damage in the long term. Authorised vs independent service centres South Africa boasts a handful of authorised service centres for Rolex, for instance, has official service locations in Johannesburg and Cape Town, where only certified watchmakers handle their timepieces under strict global protocols. However, many experienced independent watchmakers in South Africa also offer top-tier service. These professionals often have decades of expertise, and while they may not always use brand-authorised parts, they provide a personalised and often more affordable alternative. For discontinued models or vintage pieces, independent horologists can be invaluable. Costs and considerations Servicing a luxury watch in South Africa is a significant expense, but a necessary one. Depending on the brand, complexity and required repairs, a full service can cost anywhere from R4 000 to over R20 000. Replacement of parts, water resistance testing and dial refinishing are usually additional costs. For collectors or those with insurance cover, it's wise to keep a service history and request a detailed service receipt for each appointment. It's also essential to factor in turnaround time. Final thoughts Servicing luxury watches in South Africa requires balancing quality, trust and expertise. No matter if you're using an authorised centre or a seasoned independent, owners should view servicing as part of the timepiece's ongoing legacy, preserving precision and beauty for generations to come.
