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The Guardian
12-08-2025
- The Guardian
Moreish Murcia: a gastronomic journey through south-east Spain
'My grandmother, a widow, sold her livestock in the 1940s and bought this land to start a vineyard. That's where she made the wine,' says Pepa Fernández proudly, pointing towards a weathered building no bigger than a garden shed. We're standing between two fields on a chalky road skirted by poppies, daisies and thistles. One field is lined with neat rows of lush vines, the other with small bush vines soon to bear monastrell grapes (the most dominant variety in these parts). In the distance, a sandy-coloured mountain range peppered with pine trees sits beneath a cloudless blue sky. Pocket-sized Pepa is the face of Bodega Balcona, a family-run organic winery in Spain's south-eastern province of Murcia. The vineyard lies in the picturesque Aceniche valley, in Bullas – one of Murcia's three wine DOPs (denominaciónes de origen protegida), alongside Yecla and Jumilla. Each has its own wine route, scattered with museums and vineyards. My girlfriend and I are in the area to explore Murcia's food and drink scene after a tipoff from an old friend who grew up in the city (Murcia is the name of both the province and its capital). The province hosted two of Spain's most prestigious culinary events last year: the Repsol Guide Soles gala and the Michelin Guide gala. 'Murcia is one of the best food cities in Spain,' a suave Granada-based gentleman in a fedora tells me on the way to the tasting room. We soon learn that its wine is pretty special, too, as we make our way through Bodega Balcona's roster of earthy natural wines. Each glass is paired with national and regional dishes: cold cuts, local cheeses, almonds, tuna empanadas, and a Murcian favourite made by Pepa's nephew, pastel de carne – a hearty meat and egg pie topped with flaky pastry. After, we drive to the nearby Salto del Usero waterfall, where kids are paddling and teenagers are sunning themselves on rocks, like lizards. Following a quick dip in the chilly plunge pool, we go to meet Paco Franciso Muñoz Reales, who runs an organic farm nearby with his German wife, Heidi. Laid-back and softly spoken, Paco is part of a local cooperative of growers, including Pepa, using ecological farming methods. He explains there was a little bit of tension with local farmers when he first started, but things have settled down. On a tour of his five-hectare estate, he shows me a seed bank tucked inside a pantry, rows of apricot, olive and lemon trees, and a tomato patch. Nicknamed the garden of Europe, Murcia accounts for around 20% of Spain's fruit and vegetable exports. This agricultural heritage stems from a vast network of fertile gardens, or huertos, that surround the city of Murcia, where baroque buildings, palm-lined riverbanks and buzzing tapas bars cluster around Plaza de las Flores. La Huerta de Murcia, as the fertile area is called, also influences local food culture, with Sundays traditionally reserved for family meals at rustic restaurants. Each spring, the city also throws the Bando de la Huerta festival – a lively celebration of rural life where locals don traditional dress and feast on regional dishes. We arrive a few weeks later, so instead visit the rustic El Cañal Los Almillas restaurant, where we tuck into heaped platters of beef entrecote dusted with a layer of rock salt, and a fresh tomato salad with olives and lettuce, accompanied by plates of lemon (Murcianos squeeze lemon on everything). We finish with a classic Murcian dessert of crispy, deep-fried paparajotes – battered lemon leaves served with a dollop of ice-cream. The restaurant is named after the city's canal system, which are part of an irrigation system dating back to Moorish times. 'Think of it as the Segura River being the heart and the canals the veins that deliver the blood,' our guide, Antonio, explains. David López, the chef at the fine-dining restaurant Local de Ensayo, tells us these ancient systems are still in use today as he shows us around his huerto. López visits his patch daily, growing everything from lettuce, beans and cucumber to strawberries and aubergines. Fruit and vegetables feature prominently in traditional Murcian cooking, in dishes such as ensalada murciana (tomato salad with tuna, olives and egg) and arroz con verduras (rice with vegetables). 'It's a way of life for me, somewhere I can bring the children to plant things and watch them grow,' López says while trudging through the mud, checking his crops. About 20% of the produce used in his restaurant comes from his garden, the rest being supplied by an ecological farmer with a stall at Verónicas market, which sells fruit, vegetables, meat, fish and olive oil to the city. Sign up to The Traveller Get travel inspiration, featured trips and local tips for your next break, as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays after newsletter promotion López and his wife, Carmen, show us around the market, pointing out local delicacies like mújol (mullet), almendra marcona (almonds), langostino del Mar Menor (langoustines) and alficoz (a type of curly cucumber). We finish at Café Bar Verónicas, which to the untrained eye looks like any other neighbourhood bar: metal countertops, shelves of pickled vegetables and wine, and locals chatting loudly. However, framed newspaper reviews hint at something more. It's run by Samuel Ruiz and his wife, Isabel Torrecillas. The young, tattooed chef could be Spain's Anthony Bourdain. Ruiz, who trained at the famed El Bulli, was responsible for one of Murcia's most exciting restaurants, Kome, a tiny Japanese-style tavern. 'They didn't have social media. No website. Nothing. But people still queued down the street,' Torrecillas tells us. Ruiz decided to shut down Kome and return to his roots, opening a barra with a twist in the heart of town, she explains as a plate of caballito (little horse in Spanish) lands on the table. The popular local dish usually features deep-fried prawns, only here it's made with fist-sized crayfish, shell and all. It's followed by a good-sized bowl of marinera, a kind of Russian salad with anchovies, served with crisp bread and homemade mayo. When I ask Ruiz what sauce he's plating up, he squirts a dot on to the back of my hand. 'Try it,' he grins confidently. It is a delicious homemade saffron mayonnaise with anchovy, lemon and garlic. A frozen cocktail with an umbrella appears moments later, sent from his other bar next door, Colmado San Julián. We finish up and say our goodbyes before wandering over to López's restaurant. As we enter, he vanishes without a word and we're seated by a window peering into the kitchen. Dishes soon arrive at the table from his excellent tasting menu (from about £65), which champions local, seasonal ingredients. Standout plates include a wild mushroom dish packed with umami, a deep-flavoured red Calasparra rice with vegetables, and his excellent signature dessert, a cross between a flan and a crème brûlée (a favourite of the legendary Spanish food critic José Carlos Capel). The next day we drive 45 minutes out of town to Casa Borrego – a cosy eight-room gastronomic hotel with soft bucolic rooms and a burbling beck outside. For dinner, we're treated to an elevated take on Murcian cuisine, including pani puri balls exploding with tuna tartare, and a massive pan of rich rabbit rice. Retiring to bed, we're lulled to sleep by the sound of trickling water. With our time in Murcia nearly up, the following day we zip back to the city to hunt down one last dish: zarangollo, a simple courgette-and-egg scramble. We find it at a traditional tapas bar called Bodegón Los Toneles – all jamón legs and chalkboard menus. We end the trip as we began with a local tipple, this time at CaféLab. Asiático is a heady blend of condensed milk, Licor 43, cognac and spices – said to hail from Cartagena. Like Murcia's cuisine, its richness lies in the subtle layers – each one revealing something original, unexpected and distinctly its own. The trip was provided by Turismo de Murcia. Sercotel Amistad Murcia has doubles from around €60 room-only; Casa Borrego has doubles from €120 BB
The Guardian
12-08-2025
- The Guardian
Moreish Murcia: a gastronomic journey through south-east Spain
'My grandmother, a widow, sold her livestock in the 1940s and bought this land to start a vineyard. That's where she made the wine,' says Pepa Fernández proudly, pointing towards a weathered building no bigger than a garden shed. We're standing between two fields on a chalky road skirted by poppies, daisies and thistles. One field is lined with neat rows of lush vines, the other with small bush vines soon to bear monastrell grapes (the most dominant variety in these parts). In the distance, a sandy-coloured mountain range peppered with pine trees sits beneath a cloudless blue sky. Pocket-sized Pepa is the face of Bodega Balcona, a family-run organic winery in Spain's south-eastern province of Murcia. The vineyard lies in the picturesque Aceniche valley, in Bullas – one of Murcia's three wine DOPs (denominaciónes de origen protegida), alongside Yecla and Jumilla. Each has its own wine route, scattered with museums and vineyards. My girlfriend and I are in the area to explore Murcia's food and drink scene after a tipoff from an old friend who grew up in the city (Murcia is the name of both the province and its capital). The province hosted two of Spain's most prestigious culinary events last year: the Repsol Guide Soles gala and the Michelin Guide gala. 'Murcia is one of the best food cities in Spain,' a suave Granada-based gentleman in a fedora tells me on the way to the tasting room. We soon learn that its wine is pretty special, too, as we make our way through Bodega Balcona's roster of earthy natural wines. Each glass is paired with national and regional dishes: cold cuts, local cheeses, almonds, tuna empanadas, and a Murcian favourite made by Pepa's nephew, pastel de carne – a hearty meat and egg pie topped with flaky pastry. After, we drive to the nearby Salto del Usero waterfall, where kids are paddling and teenagers are sunning themselves on rocks, like lizards. Following a quick dip in the chilly plunge pool, we go to meet Paco Franciso Muñoz Reales, who runs an organic farm nearby with his German wife, Heidi. Laid-back and softly spoken, Paco is part of a local cooperative of growers, including Pepa, using ecological farming methods. He explains there was a little bit of tension with local farmers when he first started, but things have settled down. On a tour of his five-hectare estate, he shows me a seed bank tucked inside a pantry, rows of apricot, olive and lemon trees, and a tomato patch. Nicknamed the garden of Europe, Murcia accounts for around 20% of Spain's fruit and vegetable exports. This agricultural heritage stems from a vast network of fertile gardens, or huertos, that surround the city of Murcia, where baroque buildings, palm-lined riverbanks and buzzing tapas bars cluster around Plaza de las Flores. La Huerta de Murcia, as the fertile area is called, also influences local food culture, with Sundays traditionally reserved for family meals at rustic restaurants. Each spring, the city also throws the Bando de la Huerta festival – a lively celebration of rural life where locals don traditional dress and feast on regional dishes. We arrive a few weeks later, so instead visit the rustic El Cañal Los Almillas restaurant, where we tuck into heaped platters of beef entrecote dusted with a layer of rock salt, and a fresh tomato salad with olives and lettuce, accompanied by plates of lemon (Murcianos squeeze lemon on everything). We finish with a classic Murcian dessert of crispy, deep-fried paparajotes – battered lemon leaves served with a dollop of ice-cream. The restaurant is named after the city's canal system, which are part of an irrigation system dating back to Moorish times. 'Think of it as the Segura River being the heart and the canals the veins that deliver the blood,' our guide, Antonio, explains. David López, the chef at the fine-dining restaurant Local de Ensayo, tells us these ancient systems are still in use today as he shows us around his huerto. López visits his patch daily, growing everything from lettuce, beans and cucumber to strawberries and aubergines. Fruit and vegetables feature prominently in traditional Murcian cooking, in dishes such as ensalada murciana (tomato salad with tuna, olives and egg) and arroz con verduras (rice with vegetables). 'It's a way of life for me, somewhere I can bring the children to plant things and watch them grow,' López says while trudging through the mud, checking his crops. About 20% of the produce used in his restaurant comes from his garden, the rest being supplied by an ecological farmer with a stall at Verónicas market, which sells fruit, vegetables, meat, fish and olive oil to the city. Sign up to The Traveller Get travel inspiration, featured trips and local tips for your next break, as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays after newsletter promotion López and his wife, Carmen, show us around the market, pointing out local delicacies like mújol (mullet), almendra marcona (almonds), langostino del Mar Menor (langoustines) and alficoz (a type of curly cucumber). We finish at Café Bar Verónicas, which to the untrained eye looks like any other neighbourhood bar: metal countertops, shelves of pickled vegetables and wine, and locals chatting loudly. However, framed newspaper reviews hint at something more. It's run by Samuel Ruiz and his wife, Isabel Torrecillas. The young, tattooed chef could be Spain's Anthony Bourdain. Ruiz, who trained at the famed El Bulli, was responsible for one of Murcia's most exciting restaurants, Kome, a tiny Japanese-style tavern. 'They didn't have social media. No website. Nothing. But people still queued down the street,' Torrecillas tells us. Ruiz decided to shut down Kome and return to his roots, opening a barra with a twist in the heart of town, she explains as a plate of caballito (little horse in Spanish) lands on the table. The popular local dish usually features deep-fried prawns, only here it's made with fist-sized crayfish, shell and all. It's followed by a good-sized bowl of marinera, a kind of Russian salad with anchovies, served with crisp bread and homemade mayo. When I ask Ruiz what sauce he's plating up, he squirts a dot on to the back of my hand. 'Try it,' he grins confidently. It is a delicious homemade saffron mayonnaise with anchovy, lemon and garlic. A frozen cocktail with an umbrella appears moments later, sent from his other bar next door, Colmado San Julián. We finish up and say our goodbyes before wandering over to López's restaurant. As we enter, he vanishes without a word and we're seated by a window peering into the kitchen. Dishes soon arrive at the table from his excellent tasting menu (from about £65), which champions local, seasonal ingredients. Standout plates include a wild mushroom dish packed with umami, a deep-flavoured red Calasparra rice with vegetables, and his excellent signature dessert, a cross between a flan and a crème brûlée (a favourite of the legendary Spanish food critic José Carlos Capel). The next day we drive 45 minutes out of town to Casa Borrego – a cosy eight-room gastronomic hotel with soft bucolic rooms and a burbling beck outside. For dinner, we're treated to an elevated take on Murcian cuisine, including pani puri balls exploding with tuna tartare, and a massive pan of rich rabbit rice. Retiring to bed, we're lulled to sleep by the sound of trickling water. With our time in Murcia nearly up, the following day we zip back to the city to hunt down one last dish: zarangollo, a simple courgette-and-egg scramble. We find it at a traditional tapas bar called Bodegón Los Toneles – all jamón legs and chalkboard menus. We end the trip as we began with a local tipple, this time at CaféLab. Asiático is a heady blend of condensed milk, Licor 43, cognac and spices – said to hail from Cartagena. Like Murcia's cuisine, its richness lies in the subtle layers – each one revealing something original, unexpected and distinctly its own. The trip was provided by Turismo de Murcia. Sercotel Amistad Murcia has doubles from around €60 room-only; Casa Borrego has doubles from €120 BB
Forbes
19-06-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Choose Organic Wine: A Winemaker's Perspective
The wine industry faces complex challenges today, but beneath the headlines about climate pressures and changing consumer habits, there are many vital stories of resilience and innovation. Bodega Santa Julia, an organic winery in Argentina, embodies this philosophy, placing community and ethical practices at its core. Julia Zuccardi explains that what began as something deeply familial has grown into something much larger. "Santa Julia is named after me, the first daughter of José Alberto Zuccardi. But beyond that, the name represents our family's values, history and our connection to the land and community we belong to,' she says. For Zuccardi, Santa Julia is more than just a family legacy: "It represents the lives of the people who work beside us, the land we nurture and the values we uphold.' She says the family is deeply committed to responsible vineyard practices, an ethos mirrored in how they care for the people who are part of the winery. 'We believe that the story of each bottle begins with the vine and continues with the growth, education and wellbeing of our team,' says Zuccardi. The transformation from personal namesake to collective mission reflects the winery's broader philosophy. "So yes, the name began as something very personal,' she says. 'But today, Santa Julia is the collective effort of many faces." The Zuccardi family's commitment predates industry trends, with social responsibility part of its DNA since the 1960s. 'My grandmother Emma started many of our community programs, and that legacy continues today with kindergartens for workers' children, adult education and even sewing workshops that empower women with new skills and jobs,' according to Zuccardi. The Zuccardi family Santa Julia As consumer interest in organic wines continues to grow, Zuccardi offers practical guidance for those navigating the world of wine certifications. "Organic wines go far beyond a label; they're the result of a conscious decision to respect nature at every stage of the process. In our case, we are certified by LETIS, which ensures we meet strict organic standards." Increasingly, wine shoppers are looking for products that reflect their own values. A 2024 study published in the British Food Journal found that caring for others, the environment and oneself leads to positive views of organic wine, which influence the intention to buy it. The researchers found that self-focused values strongly predict buying intentions, and interest in organic wine affects how these values shape loyalty. With this in mind, Zuccardi breaks down what consumers should look for: "Depending on the country, the requirements may vary, but in general, you can look for key elements like: no agrochemicals or synthetic pesticides, use of natural fertilizers (we use compost and worm humus), fermentation with native or natural yeasts and overall respect for biodiversity and soil health." Her wine buying advice is refreshingly straightforward: "When choosing a wine, I always suggest looking beyond the label and learning about the producer's story and their real commitment to the environment." For consumers seeking genuinely responsible producers, Zuccardi recommends digging deeper than marketing messages: "Look for the story behind the wine. Who is making it, and how are they living their values?" For newcomers to Santa Julia, Zuccardi suggests starting with El Burro, the brand's natural and organic Malbec, priced less than $20USD. It's also certified vegan and Fair for Life, reflecting the family's philosophy of authenticity and responsible farming. "This wine shows the purest expression of Malbec from Mendoza—vibrant, fresh and made respecting the natural process of the grapes.' Zuccardi recommends consumers enjoy it with good food, good company and curiosity to learn more about its homeland. A view of vineyards at Santa Julia in Mendoza, Argentina Santa Julia Mendoza, at the foot of the Andes in central-west Argentina, is the country's leading wine region, holding 76% of Argentina's vineyards and the most wineries, according to the producer association group Wines of Argentina. Its high altitude, dry continental climate, diverse soils and snowmelt irrigation create ideal conditions for vine growing. The province is divided into five key sub-regions: Uco Valley, Primera Zona, Northern Oasis, East and South. These areas give wines unique characteristics, especially Malbec, which best showcases Mendoza's terroir. While Malbec remains Argentina's flagship variety, Zuccardi emphasizes the country's broader potential: 'Argentina has so much more to offer.' At Santa Julia, the team places a focus on expressing the typicity of each grape, with a fresh, fruit-forward style that speaks of the local terroir. Other key varieties grown here include Bonarda, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cereza and Criolla Grande. "Mendoza is our home. It's where we were born, where we live and where our wines come to life," Zuccardi says with evident passion. "The region's climate, altitude and soil diversity allow us to create wines with vibrant character and a strong sense of place." Compost at the Santa Julia property Santa The brand's philosophy is encapsulated in their motto: 'Discover the faces behind the wine." Santa Julia's pioneering Fair for Life certification in Mendoza reflects a fundamental belief about winemaking quality that stems from the people who make the product. "We truly believe that people make the wine," says Zuccardi. "The Fair for Life certification supports fair trade practices, better working conditions and ongoing educational opportunities for our team." The winemaker says real commitment should be verifiable. In the Santa Julia vineyards, visitors will see biodiversity in action, with composting and organic treatments that reflect the winery's real commitment. 'These practices should be visible,' says Zuccardi. 'In the land, in the people and in the way a winery works every day." The connection between worker wellbeing and wine quality is direct in her view. "When people feel empowered and valued, they bring their best to their work,' notes Zuccardi. 'That commitment, care and pride translate directly into the quality of the wine in the bottle." The certification also creates tangible community benefits. She explains that 8% of sales from certified products are reinvested back into the community, funding projects that improve quality of life, such as health services, education and infrastructure. Every bottle carries weight beyond its contents—it represents passionate growers, ethical labor practices and a vision for responsible agriculture. For consumers, these organic wines offer alignment between values and consumption, providing not just taste but purpose. "When you choose Santa Julia, you're supporting an entire community," says Zuccardi. The approach is linked to clear principles: "Everything we do is grounded in three pillars: innovation, quality and respect—for nature and for people."
