Latest news with #perfumery
CNA
3 days ago
- Business
- CNA
8 Chinese perfume brands scent lovers are obsessed with right now
Those who are into scents might have noticed a new wave emerging in the fragrance industry – a rising interest in China's perfumery scene that's evident on social media and beauty news, including in the west. It's a burgeoning beauty sector filled with niche brands that each have their unique take on fragrances – many with a fascinating oriental twist. But it's not just the locals that these brands are attracting – tourists and foreigners who've had the chance to experience their scents are also being charmed by their distinctiveness and are spreading the word across the world. Freshness and novelty are two key qualities that draw people to this new breed of perfumes. Besides largely being inspired by Eastern culture and concepts, many of them also incorporate unusual Chinese-inspired fragrance notes. While common notes that are widely used in Western perfumes are also in Chinese scents, rare and unexpected materials are thrown in for an interesting mix. Instead of the usual rose, bergamot or generic black or green tea, you are likely to encounter osmanthus, pomelo, fo shou (Sichuan bergamot), oolong or Pu-erh in a Chinese fragrance. Add to that the allure of aesthetically stylish packaging – an all-important factor in the overall appeal of perfumes, and it's not hard to see why Chinese perfumes are fast becoming the next big thing in the industry. Take a look at what these brands have to offer and you'd agree that they can rival any other Western luxury perfume company or the hottest Korean scent brands out there. One downside, though, is that many of them are still difficult to acquire outside China, and can only be found at stores in major Chinese cities like Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Shanghai and Beijing. So, if you should be travelling to these destinations, make sure to check out where they can be bought. 1. TO SUMMER View this post on Instagram A post shared by 观夏 To Summer (@tosummerofficial) Arguably the most well-known among the Chinese fragrance brands, To Summer is the name you are likely to have first come across on social media. The brand is a go-to for Eastern-inspired scents that incorporate oriental notes like jasmine, osmanthus, Chinese cedar, fo shou (Sichuan bergamot), Pu-erh tea and incense. Chinese perfumer David Huang is behind many of the creations, although the brand also works with international experts including French perfumer Jerome Epinette and German perfumer Frank Voelkl. For something truly unusual, try To Summer's Leisure, which fuses angelica root with floral and woody tones, and Ink, an intriguing woody scent that features ink as a note. 2. MELT SEASON View this post on Instagram A post shared by (@meltseasonofficial) The Estee Lauder group has taken a stake in this perfume brand, which is a sign that it's definitely one to pay attention to. Melt Season's minimalist-chic packaging that's mostly devoid of Chinese wording will have you thinking that it's a hip Western or Korean brand – but it's proudly established in Shanghai and just as cool as any other aesthetic niche perfume brand. Its scents combine Eastern and Western philosophies, and that's why you'll find that its perfumes are built on a combination of fragrance notes and inspiration from both. Besides its outlets at Beijing, Shanghai and Shenzhen in China, you'll be able to find it in DFS stores in Hong Kong. Available in Beijing, Shanghai, Shenzhen, and DFS stores in Hong Kong. 3. DOCUMENTS View this post on Instagram A post shared by DOCUMENTS (@documentsperfume) Another Chinese perfume brand that has attracted interest from a global conglomerate, Documents had recently received funding from beauty giant, L'Oreal (the beauty giant also has a stake in To Summer). The brand projects an edgy, contemporary vibe with its minimalist packaging, advertising visuals and store design. It takes an imaginative approach to formulating its scents, which are often based on abstract concepts with an oriental slant. With simple names like Feather, Tree, Naive and Snake, the fragrances evoke the mood of each of these subjects via unique narratives. For Snake, which is inspired by the Chinese zodiac animal for this year, the brand has chosen to blend the bitterness of cocoa with the sweetness of vanilla in representation of the duality of the creature. Available in Shanghai, Beijing and Guangzhou. 4. THE BEAST @keemluu The next viral chinese perfume imo!! I also got to summer so im excited to compare and do wear tests :)) #viralperfume #perfume #perfumetok #chineseperfume #tosummer #china #xiaohongshu ♬ Cherry - Jordan Susanto The Beast started out as a florist, and has since become a lifestyle retail concept store that stocks just about everything from furnishings and home decor to lounge wear, jewellery and accessories. But what seems to be really catching the attention of foreigners in China is its line of perfumes and home fragrance products that are beautifully designed and packaged. The Eastern inspiration is evident in its perfumes, such as Oriental Beauty and Osmanthus Oolong. The Eastern influence is evident in how it has named its perfumes – Oriental Beauty is a surprising fusion of florals like camellia, honeysuckle and orchid with aquatic and citrus notes, while Osmanthus Oolong blends the oriental tea and floral notes in the perfume's name with incense, almond and leather tones. Available in Shanghai. 5. SECRETS DOOR View this post on Instagram A post shared by SECRETS'DOOR (@secretsdoor_parfums) A modernist fragrance brand with a focus on natural, sustainable ingredients, Secrets Door doesn't overtly express its Chinese identity, choosing instead to create a more globalised image for itself. Save for a number of oriental notes used here and there in its catalogue of scents, there's not much else that provides a clue to the brand's origins. The brand works with master perfumers from around the world to create its fragrances, which are all packaged in the same distinctive flacon – a minimalistic bottle in the shape of an arched door, a stylish nod to the name of the brand. 6. HANDHANDHAND View this post on Instagram A post shared by handhandhand (@handhandhand_official) It comes as no surprise that Handhandhand was founded by three designers in Shanghai, going by its uber-chic, modern aesthetic that's impeccably carried through its website, social media posts, product and retail design. There are just four fragrances in its perfume range online, with tongue-in-cheek names like Black Sheep and White Lie. Still, there's something for every taste among them. Try Black Sheep, which features uncommon notes including lentisk (an evergreen shrub found mainly on the Greek island of Chios), labdanum (also known as rockrose) and incense, if you're up for something a little exotic, or the bergamot- and rose-based First Blush smells like a gorgeous bouquet. What really stands out, though, is its home fragrance line, which comes in to-die-for designs, as well as its collection of scented sachets that's created in collaboration with international artists. Available in Beijing and Shanghai. 7. SOULVENT View this post on Instagram A post shared by baroma - an immersive sensory destination (@ The brand weaves a story for each and every perfume it has created – painting a vivid picture of scenes in China that has inspired the scent. Take, for example, its Crimson Snow – inspired by memories of winter in Beijing and street stalls selling tang hu lu (candied hawthorn fruit), it is a recreation of childhood memories during the Chinese New Year festivities. The fragrance features oriental notes of hawthorn, dried tangerine peel, plum and Pu-erh tea – a combination that instantly evokes the celebratory scene via olfactory imagery. 8. VOICE FROM THE SKY View this post on Instagram A post shared by VOICEFROMTHESKY (@voicefromthesky) Founded by a Chinese perfumer whose family is in the fragrance business, and had studied perfumery in France, this perfume brand was set up to create new, refreshing perspectives of the Chinese perfumery scene. Its creations are inspired by various artistic and cultural contexts, and features uniquely Chinese fragrance materials and notes. You can see it in Gentle King, a leather- and wood-based scent that is given an interesting edge with black pepper and Sichuan pepper. Talking to the Moon is another unusual scent – it has castoreum (a TCM ingredient derived from a beaver's anal glands) for an animalistic core, that's combined with incense and osmanthus.
The National
23-05-2025
- Business
- The National
Perfume alchemists: inside IFF's new Scent Dubai Creative Centre
A newly launched creative centre in Dubai hopes to significantly boost the future of fragrance design in the Middle East. Within Dubai Science Park, the Scent Dubai Creative Centre is the latest expansion of International Flavours and Fragrances Inc's fragrance facility. More than just a space for perfume creation, it will serve as a hub for innovation, offering educational programmes and inviting visitors to co-create bespoke scents alongside world-class experts and master perfumers. Spanning 2,000 square metres, the centre fuses advanced innovation with the centuries-old tradition of Middle Eastern perfumery. In a region where scent is deeply tied to identity, memory and rituals, IFF's investment sends a message about how the future of fragrance lies in this region. 'The Middle East is a key market for our global growth,' says Erik Fyrwald, chief executive of IFF, a French-founded perfume creation studio that has produced some of the world's most popular scents. 'We have been operating in Dubai for 15 years, so expanding our facilities in this very high-growth market where we already have expertise and experience was a natural decision.' With the Middle Eastern fragrance market projected to reach $7.6 billion by 2034, this expansion is timely. But IFF's move is about more than numbers; it's about proximity to artistry and a deep cultural alignment. This new creative epicentre offers clients direct access to world-class perfumers, semi-industrial production capabilities and a fully immersive perfumery art studio that fosters co-creation. 'It is an attractive location to collaborate even more closely with our customers to deliver leading innovations in fine and consumer fragrance even faster,' Fyrwald adds. The centre features several evaluation booths dedicated to a variety of scent categories – from fine fragrance to home, fabric and beauty care – each outfitted with the latest technologies for olfactory testing and development. A dedicated perfumery academy also supports the next generation of scent designers. The centre also integrates traditional Arab architecture, including a majlis, which will become a space for stories to be told through scent. Few understand this storytelling process better than Jean-Christophe Herault, one of IFF's leading perfumers. Known for his bold, expressive creations, Herault sees fragrance in the Middle East as a way of life. 'The Middle East has a rich and storied tradition of fragrance that dates back centuries,' he says. 'Fragrances here are not just about personal scent, they are also used in rituals and celebrations.' Herault explains how visiting Dubai allows IFF perfumers to engage more deeply with local culture, resulting in scents that are culturally resonant. 'Fragrances that resonate more deeply with the local audience and innovate in ways that are culturally relevant' are now within reach. But he admits that creativity does not come without challenges. 'One of the biggest challenges is balancing creativity with sustainability. Ensuring that our creations are innovative and sustainable requires ongoing research into alternative, eco-friendly ingredients.' IFF's Dubai space also connects seamlessly with its global creative network. The new art studio is a local expression of the brand's Atelier du Parfumeur in Grasse, as well as its Shanghai studio, bringing together East and West in a single collaborative space. The centres act as creative hubs where perfumery artists from around the world can demonstrate their skills alongside regional talent. Many of the company's master perfumers were in Dubai for the opening of the centre and are expected to visit the space regularly moving forward. Veteran IFF master perfumer Pascal Gaurin, who has created perfumes including Giorgio Armani's My Way and Tom Ford's Amber Intrigue, likens scent creation to songwriting. 'I design fragrance pretty much the same way you build a song,' he shares. 'A story, a memorable riff to get your attention in the first few seconds and a catchy chorus to remember.' For Gaurin, this new space is a blank canvas of sensory potential. 'The fragrances I design are not about me… my name is not on the bottle. Brands come to me to access skills and a signature I acquired over 30 years and ask me to translate their story olfactively.' Where does he find inspiration? 'Daydreaming,' he says, 'and new captive molecules developed at IFF'. He also highlights IFF's natural division based in Grasse: 'We have a new collection of incredible citruses … bringing a lot of added value to our existing palette.' Yet for all the innovation, Gaurin reminds us that true fragrance icons are not made overnight. 'What makes a fragrance icon? Time is the ultimate judge.' IFF's Scent Dubai Creative Centre offers a vision of fragrance as a collaborative art form. 'Perfumery is in our DNA,' says Fyrwald. 'We've played a significant role in many industry-leading innovations since our company was founded more than 135 years ago. That is what enables IFF to continue creating alongside our customers to bring products to market that meet consumers' rapidly evolving needs, but also in a way that's good for people and the planet.'
The National
22-05-2025
- Business
- The National
The perfume alchemists: A look inside IFF's new Scent Dubai Creative Centre
A newly launched creative centre in Dubai hopes to significantly boost the future of fragrance design in the Middle East. Located within Dubai Science Park, the Scent Dubai Creative Centre is the latest expansion of International Flavours & Fragrances Inc's fragrance facility. More than just a space for perfume creation, it will serve as a hub for innovation, offering educational programmes and inviting visitors to co-create bespoke scents alongside world-class experts and master perfumers. Spanning 2,000 square meters, the state-of-the-art centre fuses advanced innovation with the centuries-old tradition of Middle Eastern perfumery. In a region where scent is deeply tied to identity, memory and rituals, IFF's investment sends a message about how the future of fragrance lies in this region. 'The Middle East is a key market for our global growth,' says Erik Fyrwald, chief executive of IFF, a French-founded perfume creation studio that has produced some of the world's most popular scents. 'We have been operating in Dubai for 15 years, so expanding our facilities in this very high-growth market where we already have expertise and experience was a natural decision.' With the Middle Eastern fragrance market projected to reach $7.6 billion by 2034, this expansion is quite timely. But IFF's move is about more than numbers; it's about proximity to artistry and a deep cultural alignment. This new creative epicentre offers clients direct access to world-class perfumers, semi-industrial production capabilities and a fully immersive perfumery art studio that fosters co-creation. 'It is an attractive location to collaborate even more closely with our customers to deliver leading innovations in fine and consumer fragrance even faster,' Fyrwald adds. The centre features several evaluation booths dedicated to a variety of scent categories – from fine fragrance to home, fabric and beauty care – each outfitted with the latest technologies for olfactory testing and development. A dedicated perfumery academy also supports the next generation of scent designers. The centre also integrates traditional Arab architecture, including a majlis, which will become a space for stories to be told through scent. Few understand this storytelling process better than Jean-Christophe Herault, one of IFF's leading perfumers. Known for his bold, expressive creations, Herault sees fragrance in the Middle East as a way of life. 'The Middle East has a rich and storied tradition of fragrance that dates back centuries,' he says. 'Fragrances here are not just about personal scent, they are also used in rituals and celebrations.' Herault explains how visiting Dubai allows IFF perfumers to engage more deeply with local culture, resulting in scents that are culturally resonant. 'Fragrances that resonate more deeply with the local audience and innovate in ways that are culturally relevant' are now within reach. But he admits that creativity does not come without challenges. 'One of the biggest challenges is balancing creativity with sustainability. Ensuring that our creations are both innovative and sustainable requires ongoing research into alternative, eco-friendly ingredients.' IFF's Dubai space also connects seamlessly with its global creative network. The new art studio is a local expression of the brand's Atelier du Parfumeur in Grasse, as well as its Shanghai studio, bringing together East and West in a single collaborative space. The centres act as creative hubs where perfumery artists from around the world can demonstrate their skills alongside regional talent. Many of the company's master perfumers were in Dubai for the opening of the centre and are expected to visit the space regularly moving forward. Veteran IFF master perfumer Pascal Gaurin, who has created perfumes including Giorgio Armani's My Way and Tom Ford's Amber Intrigue, likens scent creation to songwriting. 'I design fragrance pretty much the same way you build a song,' he shares. 'A story, a memorable riff to get your attention in the first few seconds and a catchy chorus to remember.' For Gaurin, this new space is a blank canvas of sensory potential. 'The fragrances I design are not about me… my name is not on the bottle. Brands come to me to access skills and a signature I acquired over 30 years and ask me to translate their story olfactively.' Where does he find inspiration? 'Daydreaming,' he says, 'and new captive molecules developed at IFF'. He also highlights IFF's natural division based in Grasse: 'We have a new collection of incredible citruses…bringing a lot of added value to our existing palette.' Yet for all the innovation, Gaurin reminds us that true fragrance icons are not made overnight. 'What makes a fragrance icon? Time is the ultimate judge.' IFF's Scent Dubai Creative Centre offers a vision of fragrance as a collaborative art form. 'Perfumery is in our DNA,' says Fyrwald. 'We've played a significant role in many industry-leading innovations since our company was founded more than 135 years ago. That is what enables IFF to continue creating alongside our customers to bring products to market that meet consumers' rapidly evolving needs, but also in a way that's good for people and the planet.'
Forbes
21-05-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Soak Up London's Sensory Experiences This Summer
The heart of London's Soho may not be the first place you'd expect to find an immersive perfumery. But, tucked away on Smiths' Court, off Brewer Street, you can find a unique olfactory experience like no other. Amid an enclave of small artisan shops is Massimiliano Torti—a secret perfumery that only aficionados know about. The pefumery, Torti, is a hidden gem at 57 Brewer Street. (Credit: Torti) It may be under the radar in the UK but, by contrast, Massimiliano Torti has a cult following in Italy. Born in Florence in 1975, the heritage perfumery brand has chosen London for its first bricks-and-mortar store. Founded by its namesake, Massimiliano Torti, an acclaimed Italian perfumer and visionary, the brand is renowned for its innovative take on perfume creation, blending ancient tradition with modern innovation. 'For over 30 years, Torti has crafted a high-end collection of perfumes, oils, and body care products that work on a personalised, layering technique,' says Torti. 'Our philosophy is grounded in the belief that fragrance should be personal and transformative, with the brand offering an olfactory experience as unique as the individual wearing it. Our concept of 'olfactory stratification' is a technique that encourages the layering of different scents across various parts of the body—creating a rich, multi-dimensional fragrance experience. This method allows wearers to build a signature scent that tells their personal story, enhancing their mood and lifestyle.' Massimiliano Torti in his Umbrian workshop. (Credit: Torti) Enter the claret-coloured boutique, and you can learn exactly what Torti means, by embarking on a workshop led by Torti's protégé and 'nose', Nina Simona Briazu. Once you step into the boutique space, you are faced with a wall of bottles—a modern perfume library. The Bianca collection, in minimalist, white bottles, is designed for everyday use: 'To turn your daily routine into a poetic experience', says Nina. Labels have enigmatic names, such as 'CandiFrutt'; 'Boogie'; 'Tender Milk' and 'Fairytale'. Each one seems more enticing than the last. The Bianca Collection have subtle qualities, capturing the essence of endless skies. (Credit: Torti) The ethereal 'Tiglio Blu 01' has notes of cashmere, tulip and lime blossom. It a sunshine-infused fragrance that develops to let warm, creamy cashmere notes open up. Subtle tulip floral notes designate early spring, and waft over the skin to create a soft and elegant scent. The golden-hued, Amber Collection, meanwhile, is made up of more intense scents, such as 'Dark Chocolate Patchouly', 'Poudre Iris' and 'Zafferano Tonka'; while the Raw Collection, including 'Blackened Oud' and 'Frangipani Bloom', contains the most powerful and sophisticated scents. Finally, The Skin Collection is made up of a line of luxurious body creams and oils—in another 200 scent options, such as 'White Powder' and 'Moroccan Mint', all designed to be layered to work alongside your chosen perfume. The Torti Soho store with its fragrance wall. (Credit: Torti) In total, there's over 300 fragrances and 200 body care products to choose from, so Nina's workshop is the best way to navigate the overwhelming choice. As she talks to each customer, she 'reads' what she thinks will resonate with the wearer, discussing their lifestyle, observing how they move and how they express themselves. After soaking up each person's 'aura', she starts picking out a selection of perfumes for them to sample. Once you've narrowed it down to two or three, she'll press oils or spritz the chosen scents in the crook of your elbow or on the forearm, letting them settle before she allows you to select your final choice. It's a 'no no', she says, to spray scent on the neck, where your lymph nodes are ('especially commercial perfumes, which are full of toxins'). Instead, she advises to spray your perfume across your torso, over your décolleté and, finally, misted over your hair to allow it 'to deepen safely on the skin, and to rise throughout the day'. Each scent has a story, which Nina explains as bottles are picked off the shelves. She delves into the provenance and the craftwork behind each one and the sourcing of rare ingredients. The Amber Collection is made up of deep and radiant scents. (Credit: Many Torti fragrances focus on single-note essences, capturing the essence of raw materials in their most authentic form. Collaborating with experts from diverse fields, such as tea, chocolate, and essential oils, Torti works from his workshop and lab in Umbria, Italy, where he continues to craft every fragrance by hand. 'True luxury lies in exclusivity and individuality,' says Nina. 'We have purposely remained offline and have avoided mainstream marketing, to ensure that our fragrances are for those who truly appreciate the art of perfumery. Our goal is to teach individuals how to perfume themselves, to create their own rituals, and to discover scents that align with their essence. It's one reason why we have chosen London for our first store: it is a city that is open to new things, is rich in history and which celebrates heritage and craftsmenship. It is a place, outside of Italy, that aligns with our core values.' Artisan traditions lie at the heart of the brand. (Credit: Torti) Exclusivity is key to the brand. Each fragrance is produced in limited quantities annually and each uses a high concentration of essential oils (30-40%—the highest amount allowed). Authenticity is another focus, with only the freshest and most vibrant materials selected from global harvests. Nina's personalised fragrance experiences are, she says, 'not only to help customers choose a scent they love, but also to help them craft a bespoke, layered approach to perfumery, that will elevate their identity and connect them to their true selves. I want to create 'perfume awareness'—teaching people to own their scent identities,' she says. 'You will leave here with an scent wardrobe—a combination that uniquely belongs to you.' Nina Simona Briazu, Torti's nose and fragrance expert. (Credit: Torti) Nina's background as a prior restaurant owner and also as a make-up artist (she's worked with the likes of Cindy Crawford), all helps in the skill of perfumery, she believes. 'In some ways, the art of perfume is just like Michelin-starred cookery,' she says, 'where a chef will source and use the finest ingredients to craft the most delicious plate. It's the same thing with the art of make-up, you need to be able to read a face, see what works and elevate a person. It is what I do now with some of the finest fragrances in the world.' 'In short,' she says, 'fragrance is an intimate experience that deserves to be understood and appreciated.' The Jo Loves takeover at Pan Pacific is inspired by Lake Como. (Credit: Jonathan Stewart Photographer / Meanwhile, over in the City of London, there's another scent experience arriving for the summer. Taking place at five-star hotel, Pan Pacific London, is a unique summer collaboration with renowned fragrance brand, Jo Loves. Giving a nod to the Italian dolce vita Pan Pacific London and Jo Loves have come together to bring the elegance of Lake Como to the heart of London. Marking the launch of With Love from Como, the new limited-edition fragrance by Jo Loves, the hotel's 18.5-metre infinity pool has been transformed into a serene, multisensory oasis. Inspired by the fragrance's vibrant notes of clementine and basil, the summer pop-up, available to hotel guests and wellbeing day-pass guests, will run until the end of September. Part of the experience, includes the hotel's Mindful Studio being transformed into a chic Lake Como Café. On offer are Limoncello, Clementine, or Peach mimosas and an Italian-inspired menu, featuring wild mushroom arancini and classic bruschetta. The takeover includes a Café Como, offering Italian bites. (Credit: Jonathan Stewart Photographer / The state-of-the-art SENSORY Wellbeing Floor, meanwhile, has been decked out with pool floats and deck chairs, and will invite guests to cool off with a quick dip while enjoying city views, a nod to blissful afternoons on Lake Como. As part of the summer takeover, the hotel will also host 'fragrance ciccheti' (the Italian version of tapas—except they are a fragrance version) on the last Wednesday of each month. In Café Como, guests will explore Jo Loves' new fragrance collection and will be able to create their own personal 'plate' of fragrances: bath cologne is gently warmed in a tagine, releasing a cloud of scented steam; while cleanser is shaken over ice, strained into a glass, then whipped to perfection; and a feather-light foamed lotion is artfully brushed onto the skin for a summer-fuelled sensory experience. Herbologist Maya Thomas will collaborate with Forage Botanicals for a series of herbal talks this summer. (Credit: Camilla Greenwell) Finally, harnessing the fragrant power of herbs is a return of the partnership between hormone health brand Forage Botanicals and Chelsea Physic Garden. Following last year's sell-out lecture series, the second Women's Health & Herbs set of workshops sees medical herbalist and Forage Botanicals' founder, Natasha Richardson, collaborate with herbologist Maya Thomas to tackle key health topics with a holistic, whole-body approach. Hear Forage Botanicals' founder, Natasha Richardson, at the Chelsea Physic Garden. (Credit: siobhan calder) The series explores the positive impact that herbs can have on our health, hormones and emotions, alongside the proven historical way that herbs have long shaped our wellbeing. Each talk has been designed to equip guests with practical herbal knowledge, empowering them to use herbs confidently in everyday life, whether in the kitchen, garden, in a recipe or making a simple remedy. Next up, taking place on 3 June (at 6.30-8pm) is Herbs & Blood Sugar; while on the 8 July (at 6.30-8pm), the theme is on Herbs & Antibiotics. It's a heady way to immerse youself into summer.
