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France 24
3 days ago
- Politics
- France 24
'To feed, not to poison': French chefs push back against pesticide law
"We restaurateurs are in this business to feed, not to poison." A wave of discontent is spreading through France's culinary world as chefs publicly denounce a new law reauthorising a controversial pesticide. The so-called " Duplomb law" has sparked an outcry among food professionals, with a petition demanding its repeal surpassing 2 million signatures on Monday. In a joint opinion piece published last Thursday in Le Monde, hundreds of chefs voiced alarm over the declining quality of ingredients and joined calls for the law's withdrawal. 'If we're speaking out today, it's because we're stunned by the blindness of our politicians and their increasingly obvious ties with agribusiness,' they wrote, following the highly publicised intervention of three-starred chef Jacques Marcon, who rarely speaks out publicly. Marcon took to Instagram to criticise Senator Laurent Duplomb, the law's author, who represents Haute-Loire, where Marcon's restaurant is located. "'Proud to be Altiligerian' [Proud to be someone from the Haute-Loire] is our department's motto, but today I'm ashamed to live in Haute-Loire, the department you represent!" he wrote, addressing the senator directly. The Duplomb law reintroduces, by way of derogation, the use of acetamiprid, a pesticide from the neonicotinoid family long criticised for its environmental impact. Banned in France since 2018, the chemical remains legal in the European Union and proponents say French farmers need it to help them compete. 07:11 Marcon accused the senator of acting as "a spokesperson for the agro-industry, which favours intensive agriculture harmful to future generations". His message, accompanied by a photo of a wild herb field in Haute-Loire, was widely shared and drew strong support from fellow chefs defending local terroirs and food quality. "Thank you, we feel the same here about our Brière landscapes, in Loire-Atlantique, which collect all the water from the surrounding runoff," said Éric Guérin, chef at the Michelin-starred La Mare aux Oiseaux. "Thank you for saying it loud and clear, I'm happy to relay your message." A groundbreaking stand Marcon's intervention – a first of its kind in the fine dining world – carried particular weight due to his standing in French gastronomy. It broke a long-standing silence within the industry on political and environmental issues and sparked an unprecedented mobilisation: nearly 400 chefs and food professionals have since signed a shared statement. "The so-called 'Duplomb law' is an insult to scientists, to farmers who work without pesticides every day, to public health and to our profession," the open letter reads. Signatories include three-starred chefs Mauro Colagreco and Glenn Viel, former three-star chef Olivier Roellinger, and Top Chef alumna Chloé Charles. "I don't understand this law," Viel told AFP, denouncing "pesticides that pollute our soil" and linking food consumption to cancer rates. "We're capable of spending billions to defend our country and rightly so. But can't we find a billion or two to help farmers make this ecological transition?" Speaking to Nice Matin, Colagreco – who heads the restaurant Mirazur, in southern France – slammed the law as 'catastrophic', describing it as a step backward that goes against scientific consensus and 'shows outright contempt for health and environmental standards'. He urged a full repeal of the legislation, calling for agriculture that 'respects nature and our health'. Others were more blunt. 'This law is a hammer blow,' said chef and food columnist Marie-Victorine Manoa, calling for a 'general rebellion'. Thibaut Spiwack, Michelin-starred chef at ANONA, told RTL that the law widens the gap between those with access to healthy food and those without. He warned it will result in "vegetables loaded with chemical, toxic products and very low nutritional value" – a purely commercial logic, he said, 'normalised simply because other European countries do it too". "We are worried. Worried about the future of our food, battered by the climate crisis and biodiversity loss. Worried about the terrifying rise in cancer. Worried about the deteriorating quality of the products we serve, increasingly laced with pesticide residue. Even the water we bring to the table, bottled or tap, is affected." – Excerpt from the column published in Le Monde A rare show of unity The initiative was launched by Ecotable, a company that helps restaurants adopt sustainable practices. The movement has united Michelin-starred chefs, school canteen cooks, bistro owners and farmer-restaurateur collectives. "These are people who rarely speak publicly, but food is their everyday reality," said Ecotable founder Fanny Giansetto. "We restaurateurs are hard workers. We usually keep our heads down and keep going," said Viel. "But at some point, you have to bang your fist on the table." Even Marcon, who proudly claims his farming roots, expressed self-criticism. "I also consider myself responsible for this backward-looking law," he said, vowing to become "a real activist for agriculture and the environment". He also called on the industry to take stock and "help" farmers. "We're fully aware of the daily challenges French producers face," the chefs wrote, "caught between the financial pressures of their profession and growing public demands to move away from industrial agriculture. But the Duplomb law, passed on July 8, addresses none of these issues. On the contrary, it turns a blind eye to the real problems: farmer incomes, deregulated trade and food competition." One Instagram user, identifying as an organic winemaker, responded under Marcon's post: "Your words are welcome, thank you. This law supposedly 'requested' BY farmers is far from unanimous among us!" Senator Duplomb responded on Facebook, accusing Marcon of "lecturing others" and inviting him to "step out from behind his Michelin stars". But in a sector long reluctant to engage in public debate – as seen during the farmers' protests of early 2024 – Marcon's outcry appears to have sparked a shift. More chefs are speaking out, increasingly aligned around the future of food, public health and the responsibility they bear. Watch more One year after protests, French farming still in crisis Among the most visible supporters is Stéphane Manigold, restaurateur and head of the Eclore group. In an Instagram post titled "Truth of the facts according to the text", he challenged Duplomb's claims "point by point", describing the bill as "a limited social measure, which you are attempting to wrap in an opportunistic ideological narrative". "People on the ground are neither blind nor naive," he wrote. According to a poll published Sunday in La Tribune Dimanche, 64% of French respondents said they hoped French President Emmanuel Macron would refuse to sign the bill and instead call for a new parliamentary debate. Macron has said he is awaiting the Constitutional Council's ruling on the law's legality, expected on August 7, before making his decision. In the meantime, the Duplomb bill appears to have triggered a wake-up call, galvanising a cross-cutting wave of anger – from local bistros to Michelin-starred kitchens.


Arab News
5 days ago
- Business
- Arab News
Saudi Arabia's high-end dining scene fuels culinary and cultural revival
RIYADH: Saudi Arabia's culinary heritage is deeply rooted in its diverse landscapes, climates, and tribal traditions — further shaped by centuries of global trade. Yet both locally and internationally, exposure to authentic Saudi cuisine has long remained limited to a few convenient, accessible formats. That's changing, not just in taste but in structure. In July, the Saudi government issued a formal regulatory framework for luxury restaurants, officially classifying fine dining as a distinct category with its own licensing code — requiring on-table service only, the elimination of cashier counters, and a curated, limited number of branded outlets per city. Each establishment must feature a visible beverage prep station, maintain distinct employee-only rest areas, and meet strict kitchen zoning rules that separate raw, cooked, and served foods to minimize contamination. By formalizing standards for luxury restaurants, the government aims to elevate service consistency, improve operational quality, and ensure a premium guest experience across the Kingdom. The new framework will not only protect consumers but also encourage global investment by giving restaurateurs a clear, streamlined path to enter Saudi Arabia's high-end dining market. It reflects the broader goals of Vision 2030: to boost tourism, foster entrepreneurship, and position Saudi cities as regional lifestyle destinations. The Saudi foodservice market is projected to grow from $30.12 billion in 2025 to $44.67 billion by 2030, at a compound annual growth rate of 8.2 percent, according to Mordor Intelligence, a market research firm. Under Vision 2030, Saudi Arabia is positioning itself as a global culinary destination — supporting local entrepreneurship and attracting international ventures — while reshaping its food and hospitality landscape. Economic ripple effects The rise of high-end dining in Saudi Arabia is generating widespread economic ripple effects, starting with job creation across multiple sectors. According to Elena Caron, corporate services director at Fragomen, demand is growing not only for chefs and service staff, but also for professionals in logistics, supply chain, and technology. 'At the same time, restaurants and hospitality groups must navigate a more complex regulatory environment. Complying with labor laws, meeting Saudization quotas, securing commercial licenses and following foreign investment rules are all essential to ensure legal compliance and long-term business sustainability,' Caron said. She added that supply chain and food safety standards are also evolving, particularly with the growing emphasis on local sourcing. 'As partnerships with Saudi farms and producers expand, restaurants are expected to meet rigorous food handling and traceability requirements in line with Saudi Food and Drug Authority's regulations,' she said. 'In this environment, compliance isn't optional — it's essential to protect brand integrity and maintain consumer trust.' Ahmad Al-Zaini, CEO and co-founder of cloud-based restaurant management and point-of-sale platform Foodics, noted that demand for skilled talent is rising across service, logistics, and food production, while the expansion of premium dining is also increasing the need for upscale real estate, smart kitchens, and efficient service systems. 'At Foodics, we've seen a clear uptick in demand from premium and fine dining establishments that want operational clarity, advanced analytics, seamless integrations and customer experiences,' he said. 'These businesses are anchors for the recently unlocked premium lifestyles in the Kingdom, and they play a role in attracting a new category of sophisticated investors, operators, and entrepreneurs.' Alexander Sysoev, founder of international restaurant guide GreatList, an international restaurant guide, described fine dining as a powerful catalyst — driving demand for luxury real estate, elevating local production standards, and generating diverse employment opportunities across the culinary value chain. 'The real shift is cultural,' Sysoev said. 'It raises expectations across industries — from education and sourcing to hospitality. Restaurants are no longer just places to eat — they're becoming part of a national economic strategy.' Patrick Samaha, partner at Kearney Middle East and Africa, said the Kingdom's F&B sector grew 15 percent in 2025, creating hundreds of jobs through major restaurant openings in Riyadh and Jeddah. 'This momentum is also reshaping the real estate landscape,' he said, adding: 'Premium F&B demand in districts like King Abdullah Financial District and Jeddah's Corniche surged 20 percent in 2025, prompting developers to integrate signature dining into luxury mixed-use projects.' Vision 2030's culinary impact Fine dining has become a core pillar of Saudi Arabia's economic transformation under Vision 2030, with government support attracting top global chefs, brands, and investors. According to Caron, a new generation of Saudi culinary entrepreneurs is rising. 'Vision 2030 has empowered them to launch dining concepts that reflect local culture while meeting global standards,' she said. Al-Zaini added that global brands are expanding into Saudi Arabia to tap new audiences, which in turn is raising service standards and fostering competition across the value chain. 'This has led to a rise in homegrown restaurateurs investing in premium concepts, training local talent, and demanding more reliable infrastructure for their operations,' he said. Sysoev agreed, emphasizing that Saudi Arabia is emerging as a high-potential culinary market. 'For local entrepreneurs, it brings legitimacy, infrastructure, and — most importantly — a sense of momentum,' he said. 'They no longer need to prove that fine dining is possible. Now, they're proving they can lead.' Samaha noted that recent reforms and giga-projects have fast-tracked international investment, with brands like COYA and Le Petit Chef entering the market. In the first half of 2025 alone, seven major openings were recorded. 'Vision 2030 is cultivating local talent, despite the influx of international brands and concepts,' he said, adding: 'Initiatives like the Culinary Incubator and Human Capability Development Program trained over 4,500 Saudis in hospitality and culinary arts in 2025, enabling a new generation of entrepreneurs to emerge.' He added that distinctly Saudi fine dining concepts are now emerging — blending local heritage with global techniques to redefine the Kingdom's culinary identity. Riyadh and Jeddah lead the way Looking ahead, industry leaders agree that Riyadh and Jeddah will remain at the forefront of Saudi Arabia's fine dining evolution. Al-Zaini pointed to the Kingdom's tech-savvy, affluent youth as key drivers of demand for globally inspired yet locally grounded dining experiences. 'This creates the perfect opportunity for restaurateurs to experiment with the plethora of technologies at their disposal today, from interactive culinary displays to personalized dishes, and gastronomical explorations with local ingredients from the Kingdom's vast agricultural landscape,' he said. Sysoev noted that while AI can optimize menus and personalize service, true value lies in originality and cultural context. He projected that soon Saudi Arabia will not be copying Western models — it will be crafting its own. 'That means a stronger focus on local ingredients, sustainability, and chef-driven concepts with a distinct point of view. Cities like Riyadh and Jeddah don't need to follow the hype — their power will come from building identity. That's how they'll stand out on the global culinary map,' Sysoev said. According to Samaha, three key trends are shaping the future of fine dining in the Kingdom: innovation, sustainability, and cultural storytelling. He said restaurants are using AI and smart tech to personalize guest experiences. Sustainability is now central, with zero-waste kitchens, local sourcing, and green initiatives like AlUla's solar-powered Desert Bloom project. 'Third, fine dining in the Kingdom is evolving into a platform for cultural expression. Events like Layali Diriyah and the Riyadh Food Art Festival position cuisine as a medium for storytelling, identity, and destination branding,' he said. As Saudi Arabia reimagines its tourism and lifestyle sectors, fine dining is no longer just about food — it is a strategic lever for economic diversification, cultural diplomacy, and global identity.


CBC
04-06-2025
- CBC
Montreal police arrest 13 suspected of extorting restaurant owners for money
Montreal police say they've arrested 13 people suspected of using violence and intimidation to extort money from restaurateurs. The three main suspects arrested Wednesday, men aged 25, 34, and 39, are believed to be connected to a series of extortion crimes targeting the owners of two restaurants in the Ville-Marie borough and their associates, according to a news release by the Service de police de la Ville de Montréal (SPVM). In addition to the three main suspects, the other individuals arrested are eight men and two women, aged 28 to 44. Some of the 13 suspects arrested will appear in court within the next 24 hours. The others will be released on a promise to appear, with strict conditions to follow. The two restaurants targeted belong to the same owners. These alleged crimes include one in February where a restaurant's glass facade was shot on Ste-Catherine Street West, near De Bleury Street. Another restaurant owned by the victims was also targeted, as was the residence of one of the co-owners, the SPVM says. Along with the arrests, 15 search warrants were executed in Montreal, Dollard-des-Ormeaux, Châteauguay and Laval. A total of 150 officers participated. The SPVM investigation found two independent cells that allegedly attempted to extort the same restaurateurs, police say. Members of these cells are also involved in other criminal activities, such as drug trafficking, the SPVM says. The searches conducted Wednesday resulted in the seizure of three firearms, half a kilogram of cocaine, half a kilogram of crystal methamphetamine, thousands of speed pills and nearly $120,000 in cash. "Today's operation demonstrates that when acts of intimidation against business owners are brought to our attention, the SPVM is able to deliver effective blows against the responsible criminals," said SPVM Cmdr. Pierre-Marc Houle in the news release. "We have other ongoing investigations concerning similar incidents, and we are confident they will lead to additional arrests." Dominique Tremblay, a spokeswoman for the Quebec restaurateurs association, said her organization has been collaborating with the SPVM and sending information to members about the situation — asking them to come forward if they hear anything or face extortion themselves. "If they see something, hear something around them, it's important to communicate with police, give them the information so they can act," she said. She said it is stressful for bar and restaurant owners who go through this, and sometimes they don't come forward about the extortion out of fear. Luc Rabouin, mayor of the Plateau-Mont-Royal borough and chair of the city's executive committee, said his administration knew the investigation was underway, but wasn't given exact details. "There's no place for these crimes here in Montreal," said Rabouin, who was chosen to replace Mayor Valérie Plante as leader of Projet Montréal. "And we will not tolerate anything like that right now and in the future." Extortion not a new problem Back in October 2024, Montreal police Chief Fady Dagher urged merchants and parents to work with police to help curb the increasing involvement of young teenagers in organized crime and a surge in extortion of downtown businesses. This followed several suspected extortion attempts that are believed to be behind a spate of firebombings. A that time, Francis Renaud, head of the Montreal police organized crime unit, told reporters that about 40 attempted extortion cases have come across his desk since the summer, primarily in the downtown area. He said all kinds of business are being targeted, including clean ones and those tied to organized crime. Two years ago, in April 2023, a restaurant in Laval, Que., closed as a result of repeated firebombings and an extortion attempt. The vandalism, which started happening after the restaurant refused to pay when a stranger offered it "protection," led to its insurance being revoked, Kevin Al-Sabek, the son of one the owners, said in an interview at the time. Al-Sabek said the restaurant did manage to secure another insurer, but that happened past the landlord's deadline, voiding their lease agreement and forcing them to close. He decided not to change locations over fears the extortion would follow him to the new location. Al-Sabek's closure came just a month after Montreal police arrested 19 people in connection to dozens of cases of violence and intimidation targeting local businesses.