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Condé Nast Traveler

Inside the Leather Workshops of Andalusia

Menacho opened his workshop in the whitewashed village of Castilblanco de los Arroyos, a 45-minute drive north of Seville, a decade ago—but had never planned to work with leather. A keen equestrian, he wanted to become a riding instructor but failed the entrance exam. 'The following week they called me to see if I wanted to join the saddlery course instead,' he says. 'I said yes because I'd always enjoyed working with my hands. I learned cutting and stitching, how to differentiate between leather types, and how to make basic riding bags,' he says. It was through making saddles, tack, and other equestrian items, that he acquired the techniques that would make him a leading leathermaker in Spain—and across the fashion world. But the craft, and the ancient artisanal methods he follows, holds a deep significance for Menacho. Leatherwork in Andalusia dates back as far as the Islamic period, when cities like Córdoba became hubs for the trade. 'For me, it's a way of life and a symbol of identity,' he says. This history, and the region's deep connection with horses—as seen through its rich culture of agriculture and equestrianism—has led generations of Sevillian leather workers to hone and evolve the craft. Sacred art related to Seville's Semana Santa Easter festivities is at the root of many artisans' designs, while others are inspired by the city's rich mix of Moorish, Gothic, Mudejar, Renaissance and Baroque architecture. But artisanal work is hard work, and a number of craftspeople are beginning to rely more on machinery than the traditional methods to create their products. Younger generations, meanwhile, are moving away from the professions of their parents to embark on more modern careers. Both are developments that Menacho and many of his peers worry will not only dilute the quality of the product, but this intrinsic part of Andalusian life more deeply, too. 'The work of an artisan is culture, art, and history, but it can also be the future,' he says. 'I try to show people the real value of artisanal work so that we don't lose it.' Menacho, whose workshop is almost entirely free of machinery, does 90% of his work by hand Cristina Gómez Ruiz Techniques done by hand by artisans like Menacho distinguish, in their book, their work from industrial product Cristina Gómez Ruiz Menacho's own leather craft involves chiseling and scoring, die-cutting and stitching, embossing and gilding. He treats his leathers the traditional way with vegetable dyes in oak barrels, a process that can take between six and twelve months. His workshop is practically free of machinery, and 90% of the work he does is by hand, often using techniques that date back centuries, something that Menacho feels distinguishes an artisanal product from something industrial. 'The old, traditional methods are the ones that really work. Some of them date back 500 or 800 years. They're based on time, rhythm, and knowledge of materials,' he says.