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5 Signs Your Hair Needs Help
5 Signs Your Hair Needs Help

Vogue

time23-05-2025

  • Health
  • Vogue

5 Signs Your Hair Needs Help

My bathroom cabinet is a mess. I've dedicated the entire space to haircare items—brushes, combs, heat protectants, serums, oils, and styling products. Still, my hair is a lot like that cabinet—a mess. Dry, brittle, untamable, and greasy all at once. What gives? After a chat with hair specialist Helena Rodero and a thorough read of her book All About Your Hair and Skin, I've been able to pinpoint exactly what's causing my hair problems—and also, how to fix them. Turns out layering on all the hair products in the world can't fix a head that's suffering due to bad habits. Read on to find out what I learned and the top five signs your hair might need a little help, too. Sign 1: Flakey scalp Rodero says 'a flakey scalp' is one of the most common issues her clients complain about. It's also one of the most misunderstood: Most people think the flaking is caused by dry scalp, so they wash their hair less frequently. But this doesn't get to the root of the problem. 'Dandruff is caused by a fungus called Malassezia furfur, which lives on our scalp,' explains Rodero. 'The problem appears when the fungus increases, causing an imbalance in the microbiota and giving rise to dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis.' Washing our hair less actually only makes it worse, because it allows the fungus to grow out of control, thus increasing flaking. 'We should wash daily or every other day—this will significantly reduce the problem,' she advises, and recommends shampoos that treat seborrheic dermatitis. These products contain ingredients that regulate sebaceous secretion up to a certain point (controlling it completely is very complicated) as well as keratolytic ingredients that help cleanse the scalp. 'The most commonly used active ingredients to treat dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis are piroctone olamine, ciclopirox olamine, selenium sulfide, and salicylic acid; They can appear alone or in combination,' Rodero explains, noting that according to clinical trials, the most effective ingredient is piroctone olamine. Look for it first in your anti-dandruff products. Sign 2: Greasy scalp You've probably heard that the best thing to do for oily hair is to wash it sparingly to regulate the oil, right? Wrong! Oily hair, as Rodero explains, is largely dependent on our hormones—which is precisely why it can be so complicated to control. Additionally, washing hair less can compound the problem: 'It can cause seborrheic dermatitis to appear, which is a type of dandruff that is more oily,' Robero explains. 'Then, it remains embedded in the scalp in the form of small yellow plaques.' This is why she recommends washing hair frequently instead, alternating between a shampoo for oily scalp and one that is more gentle.

A trichologist's guide to thickening your hair without hormones
A trichologist's guide to thickening your hair without hormones

Yahoo

time23-05-2025

  • Health
  • Yahoo

A trichologist's guide to thickening your hair without hormones

Experiencing a thinner ponytail or less bounce at your roots? You're not alone. Hair naturally sheds more and thins as we age. While hormonal changes often contribute, several non-hormonal strategies can restore thickness and fullness. Trichologists and celebrity hair experts weigh in on why hair changes and how to revitalize body and volume – without hormone intervention. One key factor is the shrinking of hair follicles with age, leading to finer strands and a thinner overall appearance. Additionally, the hair growth cycle loses efficiency over time. 'Everyone's hair loses volume to a certain degree with age,' explains Philip Kingsley's lead trichologist Anabel Kingsley. 'Just like we don't have the same skin tone in our 40s, 50s and beyond as we did in our 20s, our scalp and hair follicles age – which impacts the quality of strands they produce. Hairs become finer and fewer hairs are growing in relation to resting and shedding.' Hormonal shifts – especially during perimenopause and menopause – can play a big part. 'The biggest time to see loss of hair volume is during perimenopause and menopause,' says Kingsley. 'This is due to declining oestrogen levels. Oestrogen is very hair supportive; it's anti-inflammatory and helps to keep hairs in their growth – the anagen – phase for longer. 'When oestrogen declines, it can cause more hairs to shed, as well as make them finer and shorter.' These hormonal changes, combined with reduced blood circulation to the scalp and slower cell regeneration, all contribute to hair thinning. Fortunately, thinning hair doesn't mean you're out of options. Several non-hormonal treatments can support scalp health and stimulate hair growth. 'Topical or oral minoxidil is generally the most effective non-hormonal treatment for female pattern hair loss,' explains Kingsley. 'Micro-needling may also help – but I would suggest having this done at a dermatologist to avoid damaging your scalp. It's most effective when used alongside Minoxidil.' Minoxidil is a topical treatment that you can apply to your scalp to stimulate hair growth but can take two to four months to see its effects. It also maintains the regrowth, meaning when you stop using it, the regrown hair can fall out within three months. However, more natural ingredients can also stimulate hair growth. 'Topical melatonin, caffeine and peptide blends [also work],' explains Kingsley. 'While these won't be as effective as a medicated treatment, they can help.' Inanch Emir, co-founder of Inanch London and hair extension specialist, supports this view, adding: 'Peptide – or stem cell-based serums – stimulate follicle activity. 'Caffeine-infused products may help energise roots. Biotin, niacin and zinc supplements also support healthy hair from within.' She also says topical rosemary oil – which you may have seen on TikTok – has been shown in some studies to perform comparably to Minoxidil. Regaine For Women 5% Scalp Foam 4 Months Supply, £34.32 (was £50), Just My Look The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Serum for Hair Density, £20.80, Space NK Nature Spell Rosemary Oil For Hair & Skin, £8, Holland and Barrett Can routine and scalp care really make a difference? While products are important, your daily habits and how you treat your scalp can play a key role in hair health and maintaining thickness. 'Scalp massages won't grow you a new head of hair, but it can support scalp health by reducing stress, encouraging healthy blood flow and relieving tension,' says Kingsley. However, she warns against using scalp brushes, and instead use your fingertips. '[Scalp brushes] can break your hair and damage your scalp – plus they tend to get mouldy.' Emir also stands by incorporating scalp and head massages into your routine: 'Scalp massaging for three to five minutes daily boosts blood flow, helping nutrient delivery to follicles,' she explains. Micro-needling, in a clinical setting, can also help by enhancing the absorption of growth serums to stimulate follicles. But remember, sometimes less is more. Stick to gentle shampoos and finish with a cold rinse to enhance shine and scalp tone. The right cut and styling can make a world of difference. Whether you're aiming to create the illusion of more volume or maximise what you have, small tweaks go a long way. 'I recommend using plumping shampoos to make the appearance fuller,' says Kingsley. 'Blow-drying your hair upside down or against the grain of growth can add lovely root lift. 'Volumising products are also great – use a root-boosting foam or froth to add root volume and spritz a thickening protein spray throughout your mid-lengths and ends to add texture.' As for hair cuts, 'regular trims are essential for finer hair to get rid of any split ends and damage that makes hair look thinner,' says British Hairdresser of the Year and Toni & Guy's global creative director, Cos Sakkas. 'A blunt cut will make hair look thicker as it's denser through the outline. Layers cut in the correct way will help to create volume and shape, but it's important to keep the perimeter heavy and full throughout.' Using volumising products after washing give an instant appearance of thicker-looking hair. 'Adding volume at the root will instantly make hair look and feel thicker,' says Sakkas. 'Blow-dry hair upwards away from the root […] tip it upside down in a diffuser if you're wanting a more naturally textured finish. Switch up your parting – wear it on the opposite side to your usual parting and you will instantly notice volume through the front.' Philip Kingsley Body Builder Weightless Shampoo, £28 Philip Kingsley Body Builder Weightless Conditioner, £28 LABEL.M Volume Foam, £25, Toni and Guy

The best solutions for thinning hair
The best solutions for thinning hair

Times

time13-05-2025

  • Health
  • Times

The best solutions for thinning hair

It is estimated that half of all women will experience hair loss in their lifetime. This can be blamed on various factors including pollutants, diet, stress, hormonal changes and lack of sleep. Dr Sharon Wong, a consultant dermatologist based at 9 Harley Street, explains that dealing with hair thinning is a long-term proposition, particularly if the issue is genetic. However, there are steps you can take to manage and, in some cases, prevent hair loss. • This article contains affiliate links that can earn us revenue There are few people as skilled at getting to the root cause (no pun intended) of your hair loss as Ricardo Vila Nova. Located on Harrods' 5th floor (a veritable destination for all things beauty), Vila Nova's is a salon specifically designed for scalp health. The Portuguese trichologist started the clinic to help those tackling hair loss get the expertise his science background offers, while swapping the sterile doctors office environment for a chic salon. Vila Nova's clinic prides itself on its highly bespoke approach when it comes to helping its clients manage their hair loss. Each client who arrives at the salon has their hair examined under a microscope before any plan of action is decided on. This is so Vila Nova can scan the hair for proteins and identify whether hair loss is the result of genetics or is a hormonal issue. The microscope is also able to produce an 'x-ray' of the hair sample which gives Vila Nova more information about the hair's cuticle and its protein levels, shedding further light on the best path forward for your session. Following this, you will receive a detoxing scalp treatment and massage using products Vila Nova and his team formulate especially for you on the day at the salon, using combinations of proteins, cortex and collagen. These are all left to settle on your head under the salon's scalp steamer before you're brought back over for a microneedling treatment with a serum that combines protein and amino acids to aid in hair growth. The treatment ends with a session under the salon's high-powered LTT laser, which looks a bit like an LED lamp but is much more potent. Vila Nova says this helps to increase blood flow in the scalp, which in turn promotes hair growth, and also helps the previous hair products to penetrate more deeply into your scalp. The best part is Vila Nova makes a point not to be judgemental about hot tools or bleaching. Instead, he works with those with slightly naughtier hair habits to find scalp strengthening techniques which work with their existing routines rather than trying to change them too much. And, you even get to leave with a bouncy blow out at the end of it all. Initial hair scan begins at £185. To book visit This is the most tried-and-tested hair growth treatment and, according to Wong, should be the first step for anyone noticing significant hair loss and seeking a high-impact medicated solution. Minoxidil is available over the counter, comes in 2 and 5 per cent strength, and is available in foam, liquid or tablet form from a variety of brands. The product can have some aesthetic drawbacks, including giving hair a slightly crispier texture, but Wong says that many of her clients use the product overnight and then shower in the morning to avoid this. Anyone pregnant should not use Minoxidil, and there are a few possible side-effects including scalp irritation and a potential increase in facial hair growth for women. Wong also warns that with this product things tend to get worse before they get better, and that it typically takes six months to a year to see full results. That said, in most cases users notice a significant improvement in hair growth. There are a lot of different Minoxidil brands on the market, but Wong's over-the-counter pick is the classic Regaine. From £26, Regaine at Look Fantastic If your hair isn't as vigorous as it once was, put yourself in the hands of Dr Marco Nicoloso, the medical director of perhaps the most luxurious and impressive aesthetic clinic in London, Ouronyx. He's one of a handful of practitioners carrying out Autologous Micrografting Technology, known as AMT. The process begins by shaving a small patch of hair behind your ear where the strongest follicles are typically located. Then the doctor will inject an anaesthetic and take three small biopsies. The mature stem cells and growth factors from these biopsies are extracted and injected back into your scalp immediately. While our tester called the experience more annoying than painful, she pointed out that Nicoloso was able to use a vibrating tool on her head to help manage any stinging. This is an annual process that takes less than an hour. Aftercare involves not washing your hair or using any products for 48 hours. To really give the treatment a boost it's advised that you return once a month for three months for some Calecim stem-cell microneedling, but no additional biopsies are needed. Though micrografting won't work on totally bald patches, it can be a good option for those considering a hair transplant. Studies have shown that AMT can give a new lease of life to hair follicles that are slowly giving up the ghost. From £2,850, If you've ever noticed that your hair seems to have more vibrancy and bounce when you leave London, it could be because you've left the city's hard water behind. Hard water has a high mineral content, often as a result of old pipes. It's an issue that plagues many big cities, but London is known to be one of the worst. Hard water can weigh down hair, leading to drier, greasier-looking and more brittle strands. Extended periods of hard water use can also contribute to hair loss. This is especially true for those with more porous strands, including colour-treated hair. Enter Jolie, the Instagram-friendly filtered showerhead, which our tester says saved her hair. It works for most showers, takes less than ten minutes to install and comes with a set-up kit including a wrench and plumber's tape. For those among us who are less handy with such tools there are detailed instruction videos on the brand's website and social platforms. The multicoloured options can also jazz up an otherwise boring bathroom. Jolie filters out the hard water minerals, and our tester found that it left her hair feeling featherlight and shiny, and kept grease at bay for significantly longer. The company recommends swapping out the filter every three months, but you can also sign up for a subscription so a new one appears on your doorstep right on schedule. £157.49, Jolie Skin Co at Healf This new wonder serum helped to revive our tester's hair, even in the face of Covid-related thinning. The Calecim Professional Advanced Hair System is the brainchild of Dr Ivor Lim, a Singapore-based surgeon. It is made from ethically sourced red deer umbilical cords and works to revive dormant follicles using the patented ingredient PTT-6, a compound found in stem cells that has more than 3,000 proteins. It's been found by the Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery journal to be effective in treating Covid-related hair loss, works in men and women, and is popular in hair clinics. You can apply the serum at home through a derma stamp or micro-roller once a week for six weeks, although our tester recommends repeating the six-week course more than once for optimal results. You can also get Calecim in clinic and spa settings. In London, the uber-cool Salon C Stellar, with its 70s-inspired interiors, has partnered with Calecim to create a holistic scalp treatment called the Stellar Scalp Exosomes. The treatment includes a scalp peel, which helps remove any dead skin and debris, before the aesthetician goes in with a microneedling tool, applying Calecim's PTT-6 treatment for deeper penetration in the scalp. Then you are handed a pair of headphones playing a calming meditation (lowered stress levels have also been shown to help hair growth) to wear while the Dermalux MD LED light does its thing. LED lights help further stimulate hair growth by proliferating the hair follicle. At the end of the session you're sent off with the remaining Calecim product (six weeks' worth) to continue the hair growth journey at home. At-home treatment from £295, Calecim Professional. Stellar Scalp Exosomes treatment and kit, £665, Salon C Stellar • I tried the new wonder serum for thinning hair This CurrentBody cap with 120 LED bulbs claims to stimulate hair growth and 'slow pattern hair loss on a cellular level'. It uses LLLT (low level laser therapy), which can accelerate regrowth by increasing blood flow to the hair follicles. By improving circulation the cap can help to extend the hair growth phase while strengthening the follicles. It's also three times stronger than other similar devices on the market. The recommended use is 10 minutes daily for 16 weeks. While that might seem like a lot of time to sit around with a glowing helmet on your head, CurrentBody is one step ahead when it comes to fighting boredom — the cap features built-in Bluetooth-enabled headphones. The LED helmet gave our tester's sluggish hair growth a noticeable boost. £650, CurrentBody Virtue's Flourish range (from £120) offers two treatment packs: one is a Minoxidil-focused approach for more extreme cases of hair loss and includes a shampoo, conditioner and a bottle of 5 per cent Minoxidil foam, while for milder cases there is a 100 per cent drug-free, botanical alternative that 'fuels fatigued follicles'. The brand won acclaim thanks to its use of biotechnologies based on an unbroken keratin protein extracted from ethically sourced human hair. This is unique to Virtue, which patented the bio-derived Alpha Keratin 60ku for its products — it works to clear follicles clogged by product build-up and strengthens the moisture barrier, which can be weakened by a lack of hydration, pollutants and harsh products. The Flourish shampoo and conditioners address this. Meanwhile the Density Booster uses methyl nicotinate, which stimulates follicle growth while also protecting fine hairs. The results are clinically proven: a trichogram study conducted by the brand found that consistent use of the Density Booster over six months led to equal regrowth as Minoxidil treatments by looking at the number of hairs that had regrown in thinning areas. There is also a new Thickening Styling Treatment available in the Flourish range, which both works as a heat protectant for your hair as well as can increase volume and thickness. Our tester reported that the botanical treatment made her hair feel fuller from the first wash, giving it a thicker texture without making it feel heavy, and over time the product increased hair growth and health. The products are free from sulphates, parabens, phthalates, synthetic colours and dyes, and are also vegan, gluten and cruelty free. Phew. £120, Virtue at Cult Beauty The cult New York brand Briogeo has just landed in the UK and it's easy to see why it is so popular. Gorgeous packaging, natural ingredients (the contents lists may sound like a salad bar) and effective products that claim to treat a range of hair concerns from excess frizz to sensitive scalps. The hero range for thinning hair is called Destined for Density and contains biotin and caffeine to strengthen the hair shaft and copper peptides to prolong the life cycle of the hair follicle. There is a shampoo, conditioner and serum, and 16 weeks of using all three is recommended for optimum results. Our tester confirmed that after a prolonged period their hair had added density and lustre. And for those evenings when a little extra is required, the Blossom & Bloom ginseng and biotin volumising spray and root powder really does deliver a mighty bouffant. £111, Briogeo at Cult Beauty

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