Latest news with #southernSpain
Daily Mail
12-08-2025
- Politics
- Daily Mail
The Spanish town that 'banned' Islamic festivals: Inside the historic city where officials say they're 'defending local traditions' but Muslims say it is 'racist'
The historic town of Jumilla was on the frontline of conflict between Muslims and Christians when the Moors were kicked out of southern Spain in the 13th century. Muslim migrants may have felt more welcome in recent years when they have lived largely happily alongside their Spanish neighbours, and enjoyed freedom to worship. But a decision by Jumilla town council to effectively ban religious events from being held at public sports' facilities has threatened to ignite community tensions. Muslims have no doubt that the ruling is aimed at them as it will prevent them from having traditional Eid prayers twice a year at the town's Antonio Ibanez Morales football stadium. The Daily Mail can reveal that local Muslims have up to now hired the pitch to hold prayers for Eid al-Fitr, which marks the end of Ramadan, and Eid al-Adha, known as the 'lamb festival'. The prayer events, attended by around 1,500 people, are only held between 7am and 9am on two mornings a year when the field, which is surrounded by a running track, is not being used for anything else. But the news that they will potentially no longer be able to use the open air venue has left local Muslims hurt and disappointed. Muslim men were talking of little else, and expressed despair at the ruling, as they arrived for Friday afternoon prayers at the town's main mosque. Logistics worker Aouissat El Mamoun, 27, who grew up in the town and used to play football for Jumilla, said: 'It's really bad and I regard it as racist. 'The football field has only been used for Eid prayers for two mornings every year for the last four years. It is always a peaceful occasion and there is never any trouble. 'Now the council is saying that it cannot happen any more. It is embarrassing for the town and it has caused a lot of upset. 'Before the pitch was used, people gathered for the Eid prayers outside the mosque, but there was not enough space for everyone. 'This is all a political game. What this political party wants to do is divide the people and win votes from ignorant people.' Other shook their heads as they arrived at the mosque, pausing as usual to snack on dates set out in boxes as a welcome snack at the entrance while a volunteer worshipper swept dust from the roadway outside. Farm worker Adam Salifu, 43, who is originally from Ghana, said: 'This is a peaceful town and everyone gets on with each other, whatever their religion. 'There are people from every country in Africa in my village. Some are Muslim and some are Christian, and we have no problems with each other. 'The Eid festival prayers are an important part of being a Muslim and now the council say we cannot hold them on the football pitch. It is outrageous. 'We have two mosques here and always had a good relationship with the council. Now we have this. It is all down to the politicians. The ordinary people are fine. 'What we really need is a new mosque because this one is quite congested. We are looking for some land to build, but the council have not provided anywhere.' The ban on municipal sports facilities was suggested by Jumilla's only councillor from the far right Vox party who singled out the 'lamb festival' as being at odds with Spain's identity as a Christian country. It was voted through in an amended form with the help of councillors from the conservative People's Party (PP) in what many locals regard as a political favour. Locals have suggested that it came down to the effectively hung council's ten PP members needing the support of the Vox councillor to vote in legislation opposed by the council's nine socialist and one far left councillor. Councillors appear to have been taken by surprise at the ruling having made headlines around the world, and sparking outrage in Spain from opposition leaders, Islamic groups and even Bishops. Jumilla mayor Seve Gonzalez, a member of the PP, insisted to reporters this week that there had been no underhand political manoeuvring and that there had long been talk of modifying rules to make municipal sports spaces available for the sole use of sports. Ms Gonzalez tried to claim the motion was not about discriminating against non-Catholic faiths, saying the point was 'defending what is ours our traditions, those of everyone' with activities 'that highlight our roots'. But the amendment was passed under the same heading as the original Vox motion which cited its objective as being 'against foreign cultural practices such as the lamb festival'. Critics have described the wording is a thinly veiled attack on Islamic traditions, and have warned that the ruling could breach Spain's constitutionally protected freedom of religion. There have been suggestions that it may be subject to legal challenge and possibly overthrown before the next Eid event, marking the end of Ramadan in March next year. Some have even pointed out that the town was fully Islamic for hundreds of years following the Moors takeover of southern Spain in the eighth century. Jumilla was originally part of the Roman empire, and then the Visigothic kingdom, until the Arab conquest when it was known as As Yumil-la. It remained a principally Arab town until it was attacked by Christian troops led by Alfonso X of Castile in the mid-13th century. The local Arab ruler reached an agreement under which Alfonso could be king as long as the rights of the existing population were respected, but the Moors to be largely thrown out after Alfonso's death. The entrance (pictured) to the football stadium at the centre of the row over Eid carries signs banning dogs and bicycles, and notices promoting a local bull fight and a family's lost cat The Daily Mail found little enthusiasm for the ruling on the streets of Jumilla with many people saying they did not believe it was fair to Muslims. A mother-of-four who gave her name as Maria, 48, said: 'I voted for the PP – but I don't agree with this ban. I didn't even realise the football pitch had been used for Eid before this all came up. 'I agree that there is a problem with illegal immigration into Spain, but many of the Muslims who live here have been here for years. A lot of them work hard on farms. It doesn't seem right to pick on them.' Jumilla which is overlooked by a medieval castle and surrounded by pistachio plantations and vineyards has a population of just over 27,000 people with 7.5 per cent coming from majority Muslim countries. Civic buildings in Jumilla fly the Spanish and regional flags, and are emblazoned with pictures celebrating the town's festival next week for its Patron Saint, the Virgin of the Assumption. Meanwhile the entrance to the football stadium at the centre of the row over Eid carries signs banning dogs and bicycles, and notices promoting a local bull fight and a family's lost cat. The town's main streets are full of shops and cafés, and seem eerily quiet in the afternoon when businesses are closed for a siesta break and almost the only people around seem to be migrants walking home from the fields. Many of the established Spanish population live in apartments or in narrow lanes around the town centre while Muslims tend to congregate in the north of the town which is home to the two mosques. Much of the area has the feel of a quiet town or city in north Africa, particularly when men and boys are wearing traditional Islamic dress as they head for prayers. One housing project of three storey blocks called the Barrio de Los Angeles on the northern edge of Jumilla is home to a large number of Muslims, as well as poverty-stricken Spanish locals. The area is known locally as 'the red floors' due to the colour of several of the red painted blocks, although several were repainted in 2008 to try and create a fresher look. Many of the flats remain run down with rubbish strewn around walkways and some in a derelict condition with no windows. Moroccan-born language student Mohammed Yasin, 27, who works as a day labourer and lives in one of the flats, said he was concerned about Eid prayers being banned. He said: 'They are only on two mornings in the year and there is never any noise causing a disturbance. I think it is discrimination against Muslims. We expect to be treated with respect, as we respect other religions. 'People get the wrong idea about Muslims. We are not robbers or terrorists. We want to lead peaceful lives.' A mother-of-three called Hanan, 40, who lives in the same neighbourhood added: 'It hurts us a lot. The two festival days are far apart. I don't see that they cause a problem.' Another Muslim who gave his name as Hussein, 44, added: 'We have always been treated as second class citizens. People are going to be really angry at this latest insult. Everyone should live together peacefully.' While the Daily Mail reporter was outside the flats, he witnessed an angry confrontation in a stairwell between local youths and a Spanish man who appeared drunk or drugged. The reporter was later approached by two Guardia Civil police officers who advised him to leave saying: 'It is dangerous here'. The ruling about festivals comes less than a month after several people were left injured during anti-migrant rioting in Torre Pacheco, just 70 miles from Jumilla. The rioting which erupted over three days was sparked after a 68-year-old Spanish man he had been beaten up in the street by three men of north African origin on July 9. The local Vox party openly gloated about the Eid ban by declaring on X: 'Thanks to Vox the first measure to ban Islamic festivals in Spain's public spaces has been passed. Spain is and will be forever the land of Christian people.' But Mounir Benjelloun Andaloussi Azhari, president of the Spanish Federation of Islamic Organisations, described the ban as a direct attack on the country's Muslim population, calling it 'Islamophobic and discriminatory'. 'They're not going after other religions, they're going after ours,' he told left leaning Spanish newspaper El Pais. Referring to a recent rise of racist rhetoric and attacks, he added: 'We're rather surprised by what's happening in Spain. For the first time in 30 years I feel afraid.' Legal experts have warned the ban could face a constitutional challenge. Article 16 of Spain's constitution grants freedom of religious belief, with the only restriction being the protection of public order. Francisco Lucas, the Socialist leader of Murcia, accused the PP of stoking division. 'The PP violates the constitution and puts social cohesion at risk simply in the pursuit of power,' he stated on X. Juana Guardiola, a former socialist mayor of Jumilla, condemned the rhetoric behind the ban. She said: 'What do they mean by identity? And what about the centuries of Muslim legacy here?' Mohamed Benallal, president of the local Islamic community, publicly called for restraint and for no 'heated' or violent rection to the town council ruling He said that the community planned to 'take the appropriate legal measures' against the council after an assembly, planned for September. Muslims (pictured, arriving for Friday afternoon prayers at the main mosque in Jumilla) tend to congregate in the north of the town which is home to the two mosques In an interview with El Pais, he added: 'What worries us most is how to explain to our children that their creed is not welcome in the town.' Miguel Moratinos, the High Representative of the United Nations Alliance of Civilizations (UNAOC) and the Special Envoy to Combat Islamophobia, also expressed shock at the ruling A spokesperson for the UNAOC said: 'He emphasises that policies that single out or disproportionately affect one community pose a threat to social cohesion and erode the principle of living together in peace - a foundation of inclusive, just and democratic societies. 'To that end, the High Representative expresses his deep concern about the rise in xenophobic rhetoric and Islamophobic sentiments in some regions in Spain.'
Daily Mail
11-08-2025
- Politics
- Daily Mail
Inside Spanish town that 'banned' Islamic festivals, threatening to ignite tensions: Officials say they're 'defending local traditions' but Muslims say it is 'racist' and aimed at ‘ignorant people
The historic town of Jumilla was on the frontline of conflict between Muslims and Christians when the Moors were kicked out of southern Spain in the 13th century. Muslim migrants may have felt more welcome in recent years when they have lived largely happily alongside their Spanish neighbours, and enjoyed freedom to worship. But a decision by Jumilla town council to effectively ban religious events from being held at public sports' facilities has threatened to ignite community tensions. Muslims have no doubt that the ruling is aimed at them as it will prevent them having traditional Eid prayers twice a year at the town's Antonio Ibanez Morales soccer stadium. The Daily Mail can reveal that local Muslims have up to now hired the pitch to hold prayers for Eid al-Fitr, which marks the end of Ramadan, and Eid al-Adha, known as the 'lamb festival'. The prayer events, attended by around 1,500 people, are only held between 7am and 9am on two mornings a year when the field which is surrounded by a running track is not being used for anything else. But the news that they will potentially no longer be able to use the open air venue has left local Muslims feeling hurt and disappointed. Muslim men were talking of little else, and expressed despair at the ruling, as they arrived for Friday afternoon prayers at the town's main mosque. Logistics worker Aouissat El Mamoun, 27, who grew up in the town and used to play football for Jumilla, said: 'It's really bad and I regard it as racist. 'The football field has only been used for Eid prayers for two mornings every year for the last four years. It is always a peaceful occasion and there is never any trouble. 'Now the council is saying that it cannot happen any more. It is embarrassing for the town and it has caused a lot of upset. 'Before the pitch was used, people gathered for the Eid prayers outside the mosque, but there was not enough space for everyone. 'This is all a political game. What this political party wants to do is divide the people and win votes from ignorant people.' Other shook their heads as they arrived at the mosque, pausing as usual to snack on dates set out in boxes as a welcome snack at the entrance while a volunteer worshipper swept dust from the roadway outside. Farm worker Adam Salifu, 43, who is originally from Ghana, said: 'This is a peaceful town and everyone gets on with each other, whatever their religion. 'There are people from every country in Africa in my village. Some are Muslim and some are Christian, and we have no problems with each other. 'The Eid festival prayers are an important part of being a Muslim and now the council say we cannot hold them on the football pitch. It is outrageous. 'We have two mosques here and always had a good relationship with the council. Now we have this. It is all down to the politicians. The ordinary people are fine. 'What we really need is a new mosque because this one is quite congested. We are looking for some land to build, but the council have not provided anywhere.' The ban on municipal sports facilities was suggested by Jumilla's only councillor from the far right Vox party who singled out the 'lamb festival' as being at odds with Spain's identity as a Christian country. It was voted through in an amended form with the help of councillors from the conservative People's Party (PP) in what many locals regard as a political favour. Locals have suggested that it came down to the effectively hung council's ten PP members needing the support of the Vox councillor to vote in legislation opposed by the council's nine socialist and one far left councillor. Councillors appear to have been taken by surprise at the ruling having made headlines around the world, and sparking outrage in Spain from opposition leaders, Islamic groups and even Bishops. Jumilla mayor Seve González, a member of the PP, insisted to reporters this week that there had been no underhand political manoeuvring and that there had long been talk of modifying rules to make municipal sports spaces available for the sole use of sports. Ms González tried to claim the motion was not about discriminating against non-Catholic faiths, saying the point was 'defending what is ours our traditions, those of everyone' with activities 'that highlight our roots'. But the amendment was passed under the same heading as the original Vox motion which cited its objective as being 'against foreign cultural practices such as the lamb festival'. Critics have described the wording is a thinly veiled attack on Islamic traditions, and have warned that the ruling could breach Spain's constitutionally protected freedom of religion. There have been suggestions that it may be subject to legal challenge and possibly overthrown before the next Eid event, marking the end of Ramadan in March next year. Some have even pointed out that the town was fully Islamic for hundreds of years following the Moors takeover of southern Spain in the eighth century. Jumilla was originally part of the Roman empire, and then the Visigothic kingdom, until the Arab conquest when it was known as As Yumil-la It remained a principally Arab town until it was attacked by Christian troops led by Alfonso X of Castile in the mid-13th century. The local Arab ruler reached an agreement under which Alfonso could be king as long as the rights of the existing population were respected, but the Moors to be largely thrown out after Alfonso's death. Jumilla which is overlooked by a medieval castle (pictured) and surrounded by pistachio plantations and vineyards has a population of just over 27,000 people with 7.5 per cent coming from majority Muslim countries. The Daily Mail found little enthusiasm for the ruling on the streets of Jumilla with many people saying they did not believe it was fair to Muslims. A mother-of-four who gave her name as Maria, 48, said: 'I voted for the PP – but I don't agree with this ban. I didn't even realise the football pitch had been used for Eid before this all came up. 'I agree that there is a problem with illegal immigration into Spain, but many of the Muslims who live here have been here for years. A lot of them work hard on farms. It doesn't seem right to pick on them.' Jumilla which is overlooked by a medieval castle and surrounded by pistachio plantations and vineyards has a population of just over 27,000 people with 7.5 per cent coming from majority Muslim countries. Civic buildings in Jumilla fly the Spanish and regional flags, and are emblazoned with pictures celebrating the town's festival next week for its Patron Saint, the Virgin of the Assumption. Meanwhile the entrance to the football stadium at the centre of the row over Eid carries signs banning dogs and bicycles, and notices promoting a local bull fight and a family's lost cat. The town's main streets are full of shops and cafés, and seem eerily quiet in the afternoon when businesses are closed for a siesta break and almost the only people around seem to be migrants walking home from the fields. Many of the established Spanish population live in apartments or in narrow lanes around the town centre while Muslims tend to congregate in the north of the town which is home to the two mosques. Much of the area has the feel of a quiet town or city in north Africa, particularly when men and boys are wearing traditional Islamic dress as they head for prayers. One housing project of three storey blocks called the Barrio de Los Angeles on the northern edge of Jumilla is home to a large number of Muslims, as well as poverty-stricken Spanish locals. The area is known locally as 'the red floors' due to the colour of several of the red painted blocks, although several were repainted in 2008 to try and create a fresher look. Many of the flats remain run down with rubbish strewn around walkways and some in a derelict condition with no windows. Moroccan-born language student Mohammed Yasin, 27, who works as a day labourer and lives in one of the flats, said he was concerned about Eid prayers being banned. He said: 'They are only on two mornings in the year and there is never any noise causing a disturbance. I think it is discrimination against Muslims. We expect to be treated with respect, as we respect other religions. 'People get the wrong idea about Muslims. We are not robbers or terrorists. We want to lead peaceful lives.' A mother-of-three called Hanan, 40, who lives in the same neighbourhood added: 'It hurts us a lot. The two festival days are far apart. I don't see that they cause a problem.' Another Muslim who gave his name as Hussein, 44, added: 'We have always been treated as second class citizens. People are going to be really angry at this latest insult. Everyone should live together peacefully.' While the Daily Mail reporter was outside the flats, he witnessed an angry confrontation in a stairwell between local youths and a Spanish man who appeared drunk or drugged. The reporter was later approached by two Guardia Civil police officers who advised him to leave saying: 'It is dangerous here'. The ruling about festivals comes less than a month after several people were left injured during anti-migrant rioting in Torre Pacheco, just 70 miles from Jumilla. The rioting which erupted over three days was sparked after a 68-year-old Spanish man he had been beaten up in the street by three men of north African origin on July 9. The local Vox party openly gloated about the Eid ban by declaring on X: 'Thanks to Vox the first measure to ban Islamic festivals in Spain's public spaces has been passed. Spain is and will be forever the land of Christian people.' But Mounir Benjelloun Andaloussi Azhari, president of the Spanish Federation of Islamic Organisations, described the ban as a direct attack on the country's Muslim population, calling it 'Islamophobic and discriminatory'. 'They're not going after other religions, they're going after ours,' he told left leaning Spanish newspaper El Pais. Referring to a recent rise of racist rhetoric and attacks, he added: 'We're rather surprised by what's happening in Spain. For the first time in 30 years I feel afraid.' Legal experts have warned the ban could face a constitutional challenge. Article 16 of Spain's constitution grants freedom of religious belief, with the only restriction being the protection of public order. Francisco Lucas, the Socialist leader of Murcia, accused the PP of stoking division. 'The PP violates the constitution and puts social cohesion at risk simply in the pursuit of power,' he stated on X. Juana Guardiola, a former socialist mayor of Jumilla, condemned the rhetoric behind the ban. She said: 'What do they mean by identity? And what about the centuries of Muslim legacy here?' Mohamed Benallal, president of the local Islamic community, publicly called for restraint and for no 'heated' or violent rection to the town council ruling He said that the community planned to 'take the appropriate legal measures' against the council after an assembly, planned for September. Muslims (pictured, arriving for Friday afternoon prayers at the main mosque in Jumilla) tend to congregate in the north of the town which is home to the two mosques In an interview with El Pais, he added: 'What worries us most is how to explain to our children that their creed is not welcome in the town.' Miguel Moratinos, the High Representative of the United Nations Alliance of Civilizations (UNAOC) and the Special Envoy to Combat Islamophobia, also expressed shock at the ruling A spokesperson for the UNAOC said: 'He emphasises that policies that single out or disproportionately affect one community pose a threat to social cohesion and erode the principle of living together in peace - a foundation of inclusive, just and democratic societies. 'To that end, the High Representative expresses his deep concern about the rise in xenophobic rhetoric and Islamophobic sentiments in some regions in Spain.'
Malay Mail
10-08-2025
- General
- Malay Mail
Historic Spanish mosque-cathedral reopens after blaze
CÓRDOBA (Spain), Aug 9 — A fire at a historic mosque-turned-cathedral in Cordoba in southern Spain caused only 'very localised damage,' the city's mayor said yesterday as the site reopened to the public. The spectacular blaze broke out on Friday at about 9pm (3am Malaysian time), raising fears for the early medieval architectural gem and evoking memories of the 2019 fire that ravaged Notre Dame cathedral in Paris. Widely shared videos had shown flames and smoke billowing from inside the major tourist attraction, which is considered a jewel of Islamic architecture and is visited by two million people per year. 'There is some damage, significant damage, but it is very, very localised,' the mayor of Cordoba, Jose Maria Bellido, told reporters outside the site which opened to the public as usual in the morning. Most of the wreckage is concentrated in a chapel where the fire broke out, whose roof 'completely collapsed' due to the flames and the weight of the water used to put them out, he added in an interview with Spanish public television. Two adjoining chapels suffered 'collateral damage', mainly from the smoke, to altarpieces and other works of art, the mayor said. He estimated that the fire damaged just 50 to 60 square metres of the vast interior of the building, which stands in the centre of Cordoba, surrounded by the old Jewish and Moorish quarters. 'Fortunately yesterday a catastrophe was avoided that could have meant losing the entire mosque-cathedral,' he said. Several fire engines and police lined a street near the building on Saturday as people gathered to look at the building, according to an AFP photographer at the scene. The fire-damaged section, known as the Almanzor nave, was cordoned off with waist-high barriers. Annual fire drills A total of 35 firefighters worked throughout the night to monitor the area and cool the walls after the blaze was extinguished, the head of Cordoba's firefighting service, Daniel Munoz, said. Firefighters have held annual drills at the building since it was last hit by a fire in 2001 and this made it easier for crews to quickly contain the blaze, he added. 'That allowed them to know all the entrances, the hallways, where they could hook up their hoses,' he said Forensics police were at the scene to try to determine the cause of the fire. ABC and other newspapers reported that a mechanical sweeping machine had caught fire in the site. The site was built as a mosque—on the site of an earlier church—between the 8th and 10th centuries by the southern city's then Muslim ruler, Abd ar-Rahman, an emir of the Umayyad dynasty. After Christians reconquered Spain in the 13th century under King Ferdinand III of Castile, it was converted into a cathedral and architectural alterations were made over following centuries. UNESCO designated the building a World Heritage Site in 1984, calling it 'an architectural hybrid that joins together many of the artistic values of East and West and includes elements hitherto unheard-of in Islamic religious architecture, including the use of double arches.' — AFP
The Guardian
10-08-2025
- The Guardian
A cooler costa: the summer glories of northern Spain's Costa Trasmiera
While we all know that 'costa' is simply the Spanish word for 'coast', for most of us it has a much wider meaning, evoking all sorts of images, both positive and negative. It may be beaches, fun, cold beers and tapas at a chiringuito (beach bar) with your feet in the sand. Perhaps you're thinking of childhood holidays in a thrillingly huge hotel, where you happily stuffed yourself with ice-cream and chips for a fortnight. More recent memories might revolve around showy beach clubs with exorbitant prices. If you've been to the costas of eastern or southern Spain in the past few years, however, you may have reluctantly concluded that your favourite resorts are now a bit too hot for comfort. This year, there has been a lot of buzz about 'la España fresca', or cool Spain, but, in reality, Spaniards have been thronging the northern coast in summer for decades, decamping to Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria and the Basque Country. This is particularly true for residents of Madrid and other cities in central Spain that are stifling in July and August. Along the north coast, temperatures are usually more like those of Cornwall on a good summer's day. But be warned: you do get blisteringly hot spells, too, not to mention a greater risk of wet weather. I have trudged along beaches in driving rain in June, but enjoyed glorious sunshine and delicious swims well into September. One of my favourite chunks of northern Spain is the Costa Trasmiera in Cantabria. If you are trying to cut down on flying, it has the advantage of being easy to reach by Brittany Ferries from Portsmouth or Plymouth to Santander, the regional capital, or from Portsmouth to Bilbao, an hour's drive away. Sailing into the Bay of Santander, your eyes are drawn to the city, framed by its string of beaches, rising up on your right. Look left, however, and the view is rural rather than urban. A long spit of glittering sand, El Puntal, protrudes into the bay, with a green landscape stretching out behind it to the east. This is the Costa Trasmiera, a stretch of about 30 miles (50km) between Santander and the fishing town of Santoña. A car is really useful to get to different beaches along the coast, but there are buses from Santander to the main places, such as Somo, Noja and Santoña. With a car, you are only likely to be travelling short distances each day, so using an EV is no problem. If you liked the look of El Puntal as you were arriving, you can jump on a little ferry across the bay. I love doing this when I'm staying in Santander, as within a quarter of an hour I'm running into the sea, shrieking as the cold water hits my body. If you're used to wallowing in the tepid soup of the Mediterranean in summer, it might come as a bit of a shock. Back on the sand, a chopped seafood salad and glass of rosé at Chiringuito El Puntal Tricio always hits the spot. Walking along the beach brings you to Somo, a hub for surfers from all over the world, where you'll find lots of cafes, bars and places offering surfing and paddleboarding tuition. Hotel Bemon Playa (doubles from €90 room-only) is in the thick of things if you fancy staying for a few days. Heading east along the coast, it's one superb beach after another: Loredo, Langre, Galizano, Antuerta, Cuberris. Book a table for a lobster lunch or a seafood platter overlooking the sea at Hotel Astuy (doubles from €60 room-only) in Isla, where the crustaceans served in the restaurant are kept in seawater pools in caves below the building. The hotel is a good base for exploring the area, but just beyond Isla, right next to Playa de Ris, Camping Playa Joyel (pitches from €19.50) is one of several good campsites on the Costa Trasmiera, with lots of facilities to keep kids happy. From the campsite, it's an easy walk into Noja, the main holiday town on the coast. Practical rather than pretty, for most of the year it is a sleepy place with a population of about 2,500. In summer, however, the number rises to an astounding 80,000-plus, mostly in second homes and holiday apartments – a much higher ratio of tourists and second-home owners to residents than in resorts on the Costa Blanca and Costa del Sol. Families from other parts of Spain, especially the adjacent Basque Country, install themselves for the entire school holidays, which can stretch from late June until the second week of September. Sign up to The Traveller Get travel inspiration, featured trips and local tips for your next break, as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays after newsletter promotion Although there are vestiges in Noja of the village it once was – including the church of San Pedro on the main square and a handful of grand mansions – the streets are lined with apartment blocks, with shops, bars and restaurants at ground level. This may not be the most attractive place, but for the thousands who come here year after year, it has everything needed for a relaxing holiday with no delusions of grandeur or attempts at being cool. No one cares what you're wearing here. With Playa de Ris on one side of Noja and the equally gorgeous Trengandín stretching away on the other (a path links the two), it's not hard to see how people while away a summer here with swims, picnics, leisurely walks, long lunches and sunset cocktails. Seafood is, of course, excellent, but the nécoras (velvet crabs) are particularly prized. Those who can summon the energy to move on from Noja only have to round the El Brusco headland at the end of Trengandín to come upon yet another splendid beach. Berria is bordered by the Santoña, Victoria and Joyel marshlands, a nature reserve that attracts migratory birds from autumn to spring. The adjacent town of Santoña marks the end of the Costa Trasmiera. It's all about fisheries and canning factories here, which is a lot more interesting than it sounds. As long as you like anchovies, that is. Santoña anchovies are bigger and fleshier than most, with a softer texture and a more delicate flavour, and here they're expertly filleted and preserved in olive oil. Considered a delicacy throughout Spain, they are served straight out of the tin at top restaurants and tapas bars. Have a look around the anchovy museum – really – before ordering some at a bar, along with a plate of sardines and a beer. Devour the lot while standing at a high table on the pavement outside, then quaff another beer. You may find yourself ordering more anchovies as well. By now you should have tuned into the laid-back Costa Trasmiera vibe. All you have to do, at some point, is make your way back to Santander. It only takes about half an hour by car, but you may be tempted to stop at some of the inland villages along the way. This is not an area to rush around, which – if you're doing things properly – you will no doubt have gathered by now.
The Australian
09-08-2025
- General
- The Australian
Historic Spanish mosque-cathedral reopens after blaze
A fire at a historic mosque-turned-cathedral in Cordoba in southern Spain caused only "very localised damage," the city's mayor said Saturday as the site reopened to the public. The spectacular blaze broke out on Friday at about 9:00 pm (1900 GMT), raising fears for the early medieval architectural gem and evoking memories of the 2019 fire that ravaged Notre Dame cathedral in Paris. Widely shared videos had shown flames and smoke billowing from inside the major tourist attraction, which is considered a jewel of Islamic architecture and is visited by two million people per year. "There is some damage, significant damage, but it is very, very localised," the mayor of Cordoba, Jose Maria Bellido, told reporters outside the site which opened to the public as usual in the morning. Most of the wreckage is concentrated in a chapel where the fire broke out, whose roof "completely collapsed" due to the flames and the weight of the water used to put them out, he added in an interview with Spanish public television. Two adjoining chapels suffered "collateral damage", mainly from the smoke, to altarpieces and other works of art, the mayor said. He estimated that the fire damaged just 50 to 60 square metres of the vast interior of the building, which stands in the centre of Cordoba, surrounded by the old Jewish and Moorish quarters. "Fortunately yesterday a catastrophe was avoided that could have meant losing the entire mosque-cathedral," he said. Several fire engines and police lined a street near the building on Saturday as people gathered to look at the building, according to an AFP photographer at the scene. The fire-damaged section, known as the Almanzor nave, was cordoned off with waist-high barriers. - Annual fire drills - A total of 35 firefighters worked throughout the night to monitor the area and cool the walls after the blaze was extinguished, the head of Cordoba's firefighting service, Daniel Munoz, said. Firefighters have held annual drills at the building since it was last hit by a fire in 2001 and this made it easier for crews to quickly contain the blaze, he added. "That allowed them to know all the entrances, the hallways, where they could hook up their hoses," he said Forensics police were at the scene to try to determine the cause of the fire. ABC and other newspapers reported that a mechanical sweeping machine had caught fire in the site. The site was built as a mosque -- on the site of an earlier church -- between the 8th and 10th centuries by the southern city's then Muslim ruler, Abd ar-Rahman, an emir of the Umayyad dynasty. After Christians reconquered Spain in the 13th century under King Ferdinand III of Castile, it was converted into a cathedral and architectural alterations were made over following centuries. UNESCO designated the building a World Heritage Site in 1984, calling it "an architectural hybrid that joins together many of the artistic values of East and West and includes elements hitherto unheard-of in Islamic religious architecture, including the use of double arches." pho-ds/dc
